Transmission problem (new)
04-19-2021, 11:42 AM
#1
Cruisin'
Thread Starter
Transmission problem (new)
I've had a '19 RDX A-Spec since Sept 2018 and, I've been very happy with it. ... other than the month-long repair to fix the sunroof! No other problems.
Now, with around 27,000 miles, the transmission has started acting up. I'll be stopped at a light, when the light turns green and I hit the gas, the transmission seems to be stuck in 2nd gear! It doesn't go from 1st to 2nd, it starts in 2nd and stays there. Nothing I can do will change the gears. Trying to up/downshift with the paddles doesn't work, changing into/out of sport mode doesn't work. I'm stuck in this gear with a max of around 20 mph at 6000 RPM until I pull over and turn the car off. Upon restart, everything seems normal. This has happened a few times and I'm unable to recreate it. The dealer says they can't find anything wrong!
Anybody else experience this?
Thanks
Now, with around 27,000 miles, the transmission has started acting up. I'll be stopped at a light, when the light turns green and I hit the gas, the transmission seems to be stuck in 2nd gear! It doesn't go from 1st to 2nd, it starts in 2nd and stays there. Nothing I can do will change the gears. Trying to up/downshift with the paddles doesn't work, changing into/out of sport mode doesn't work. I'm stuck in this gear with a max of around 20 mph at 6000 RPM until I pull over and turn the car off. Upon restart, everything seems normal. This has happened a few times and I'm unable to recreate it. The dealer says they can't find anything wrong!
Anybody else experience this?
Thanks
04-19-2021, 12:08 PM
#2
Senior Moderator
when was the last time the fluid was replaced?
04-19-2021, 12:46 PM
#3
Cruisin'
Thread Starter
Good question! All service has been performed at the same local Acura dealership. Without looking at records, it would have been done (if it was done) per the manufacturer's recommendation.
The "Maintenance Minder" system doesn't show a specific mileage to change the transmission fluid as it does for the engine oil! Since the manual is in the car at the dealership, I can't look it up!
The "Maintenance Minder" system doesn't show a specific mileage to change the transmission fluid as it does for the engine oil! Since the manual is in the car at the dealership, I can't look it up!
04-19-2021, 01:14 PM
#4
Cruisin'
Thread Starter
Update, the dealer just called and said they can't reproduce the problem (surprise!) and the data logs don't show any issues at all, including on Saturday which is the last time it happened!
He said the first recommended transmission fluid change is at 30k to 36k miles. And, the sensors monitor fluid levels and condition, it looks good as of now!!
Anybody else have any transmission problems like this?
Thanks
He said the first recommended transmission fluid change is at 30k to 36k miles. And, the sensors monitor fluid levels and condition, it looks good as of now!!
Anybody else have any transmission problems like this?
Thanks
04-19-2021, 11:11 PM
#5
I have a 2019 (late production) Advance and the transmission has been as perfect as any car could be. That doesn't mean all will be the same. There is good and bad to what you are seeing.
The good is: the driveline has a long warranty and will cover your problem.
The bad is: The dealer really doesn't mind fixing your issue BUT they have to be able to document with data or duplicate it themselves in order for Acura to pay them to repair it. I know it seems they are giving you the run around but normally they are not! They want happy customers but they just can't throw parts at cars to guess at what might be wrong.
When a dealer works on a vehicle under warranty they must pay for the parts and pay the labor and shop overhead themselves. Once the repair is done they then have to complete the paperwork and submit it to be reimbursed by the manufacturer. The manufacturer will not honor (pay) a claim if there is no proof that the repair was needed. In my early career I took over as a Service Manager at an import auto dealer. One of my first jobs was to meet with the district factory rep and one-by-one review several file boxes of warranty claims that had been rejected and not paid by the manufacturer. The dealership was out tens of thousands of dollars on these jobs and I worked for two days to rework the claims, provide the proof the repairs were needed and then resubmit all those claims so we could recover our money. While working on the factory side of the equation we had to get many parts back, especially expensive one, and tear them down to find the root cause of the issue so we could correct any design or manufacturing issues so we could improve the product. Don't think a dealer is just blowing you off because they can't duplicate the problem.
My advice to anyone with a strange problem that the dealer can't find is to help the dealer out. Try to find exactly the circumstances that were occurring when the problem happened. In fact, with the one OEM I spent most of my time with we had a form to give the customer. It asked a series of questions for them to respond to. Things like the engine temp at the time, the weather, how long the car had been driven, up or down hills, only in heavy stop and go traffic, and much more. We needed all the data we could get to help us. You have lots of miles left on the warranty. As we always said, "If there is a real problem it will only get worse and sooner or later it will get resolved". Cars do not normally fix themselves! Best of luck getting this transmission issue sorted out.
BTW: It could be something is happening to put the transmission into "Limp in mode". If there is a failure that prevents the transmission from working properly it goes into one gear and stays there so you can move the car.
The good is: the driveline has a long warranty and will cover your problem.
The bad is: The dealer really doesn't mind fixing your issue BUT they have to be able to document with data or duplicate it themselves in order for Acura to pay them to repair it. I know it seems they are giving you the run around but normally they are not! They want happy customers but they just can't throw parts at cars to guess at what might be wrong.
When a dealer works on a vehicle under warranty they must pay for the parts and pay the labor and shop overhead themselves. Once the repair is done they then have to complete the paperwork and submit it to be reimbursed by the manufacturer. The manufacturer will not honor (pay) a claim if there is no proof that the repair was needed. In my early career I took over as a Service Manager at an import auto dealer. One of my first jobs was to meet with the district factory rep and one-by-one review several file boxes of warranty claims that had been rejected and not paid by the manufacturer. The dealership was out tens of thousands of dollars on these jobs and I worked for two days to rework the claims, provide the proof the repairs were needed and then resubmit all those claims so we could recover our money. While working on the factory side of the equation we had to get many parts back, especially expensive one, and tear them down to find the root cause of the issue so we could correct any design or manufacturing issues so we could improve the product. Don't think a dealer is just blowing you off because they can't duplicate the problem.
My advice to anyone with a strange problem that the dealer can't find is to help the dealer out. Try to find exactly the circumstances that were occurring when the problem happened. In fact, with the one OEM I spent most of my time with we had a form to give the customer. It asked a series of questions for them to respond to. Things like the engine temp at the time, the weather, how long the car had been driven, up or down hills, only in heavy stop and go traffic, and much more. We needed all the data we could get to help us. You have lots of miles left on the warranty. As we always said, "If there is a real problem it will only get worse and sooner or later it will get resolved". Cars do not normally fix themselves! Best of luck getting this transmission issue sorted out.
BTW: It could be something is happening to put the transmission into "Limp in mode". If there is a failure that prevents the transmission from working properly it goes into one gear and stays there so you can move the car.
04-20-2021, 07:19 PM
#7
Dear "russianDude".... In the interest of helping others to understand how a modern computer controlled automobile actually functions I will take a few minutes to address your comment.
Please go back and read what I wrote and this time don't put any extra words in that were not in the comment. There is nothing in my post that says or implies there is a sensor that monitors fluid condition, I have no idea where you got that idea.
That said there are several, actually many, sensors that do input data to the controller so the transmission shifting can be controlled. The simple ones are the input shaft speed sensor, the output shaft speed sensor (which also runs the speedo in most vehicles), the pump pressure sensor, sensors that sense when each device is pressurized, and others. The ECM also gets lots of engine data like mass air flow, manifold pressure, throttle position, engine load or whatever depending on which control system the vehicle is using.
The logic programed into the controller looks at all this data to determine how to shift. 0 MPH, engine running and the "D" button is pushed the controller than engages first gear. Normally a pressure sensitive switch will "notify" the ECM that yes, the valve body did in fact pressurize the right circuit for first gear. The vehicle starts to move. The controller looks at engine, input shaft speed and output shaft speed. Gear ratios are programed in so the controller can verify that the transmission is engaged and that the clutches are not slipping. (more on that later). The engine load is monitored as well as vehicle road speed. Based on this data the look up tables will tell the controller when its appropriate to shift up a speed and to which gear to go to next. (sometimes it will skip a gear due to a very light load factor, think pulling out on a street which is running down hill. Little power is needed and gravity alone could make the car speed up.).
I could write more but that is enough that a reasonable person should get some idea that a LOT of data is used to make the transmission shift properly. If any of the critical data is missing the controller is "blind" and won't know what to do as to shifting. With some vehicles the controller can do a fall back to other data and try to do shifts. However, they may be rough or at the wrong speed. Sometimes the vehicle can't make a proper decision and in a case like that the controller will default to a "safe mode" (also known as "limp in mode" by some) which will shift to a certain gear that will allow the car to move, but sometimes not shift. For example, certain GM cars in the past would shift into second gear only. This would allow them to move and even to be driven at a fair rate of speed if needed.
So, loss of data, loss of ability to shift. Normally this should set some sort of malfunction code which would point out which data is missing. Something like "Input speed sensor out of range" or something. (P0715 for example).
Or, from one internet source: (this is pretty common information for those who work on cars)
"Transmission “Fail-Safe” or “Limp” ModeWhen a transmission fault is detected by the OBD-II system, the transmission may go into fail-safe (or “limp” mode as it is also called) in order to protect the transmission from internal damage that could be caused by the fault. While in fail-safe (or limp mode) the transmission will be locked in either 2nd. or 3rd. gear.
The purpose of the transmission fail-safe mode is to allow you to drive home or to the nearest repair facility to have the transmission checked out. While in limp mode, you should limit your speed to between 35 and 40 mph. Driving at increased speeds or for a long distance while in fail-safe will cause the transmission to overheat, which can quickly damage friction clutches, seals and other internal transmission components.
Note: A transmission in fail-safe (or limp mode) will sometimes correct itself when the engine is shut off and restarted. So, if you find yourself in this situation, find a safe place to pull off the road and shut the engine off. Wait one minute and then restart the engine."
And if you have read this far...about those speed sensors: The controller knows the gear ratios. It knows when a shift is made. It tracks the time it takes to make that shift and verifies that once it is made there is no slippage. If the shift time is off the controller can vary the output volume or pressure of the transmission oil pump. Upping the pressure will speed up the shift and make it more firm. Lowering pressure gives a more relaxed and softer shift. Power factor of the engine will change the pressure applied. Hard acceleration will cause it to make "snappy" shifts. Light throttle will lower pressure for soft shifting. The controller will actually monitor shift times and slippage and anticipate the pressure needed for the way the car is driven. For example, if a clutch is a little worn the controller can add more pressure on that speed to adjust the shift time up to where it should be and to insure the clutch will not slip. This feature not only makes the car nicer to drive it also gives the transmission a longer life as it works to cut down on clutch plate wear. So, the transmission is "adaptive" in that it learns how you drive and it adjusts the shifting accordingly.
So, no thee is not a dirty oil sensor on this car! There are, however, a long list of other sensors that affect the shifting of the transmission.
BTW: There are vehicles that have dirty oil sensors. (from many years back before we had computers tracking driving history to determine service intervals).
Please go back and read what I wrote and this time don't put any extra words in that were not in the comment. There is nothing in my post that says or implies there is a sensor that monitors fluid condition, I have no idea where you got that idea.
That said there are several, actually many, sensors that do input data to the controller so the transmission shifting can be controlled. The simple ones are the input shaft speed sensor, the output shaft speed sensor (which also runs the speedo in most vehicles), the pump pressure sensor, sensors that sense when each device is pressurized, and others. The ECM also gets lots of engine data like mass air flow, manifold pressure, throttle position, engine load or whatever depending on which control system the vehicle is using.
The logic programed into the controller looks at all this data to determine how to shift. 0 MPH, engine running and the "D" button is pushed the controller than engages first gear. Normally a pressure sensitive switch will "notify" the ECM that yes, the valve body did in fact pressurize the right circuit for first gear. The vehicle starts to move. The controller looks at engine, input shaft speed and output shaft speed. Gear ratios are programed in so the controller can verify that the transmission is engaged and that the clutches are not slipping. (more on that later). The engine load is monitored as well as vehicle road speed. Based on this data the look up tables will tell the controller when its appropriate to shift up a speed and to which gear to go to next. (sometimes it will skip a gear due to a very light load factor, think pulling out on a street which is running down hill. Little power is needed and gravity alone could make the car speed up.).
I could write more but that is enough that a reasonable person should get some idea that a LOT of data is used to make the transmission shift properly. If any of the critical data is missing the controller is "blind" and won't know what to do as to shifting. With some vehicles the controller can do a fall back to other data and try to do shifts. However, they may be rough or at the wrong speed. Sometimes the vehicle can't make a proper decision and in a case like that the controller will default to a "safe mode" (also known as "limp in mode" by some) which will shift to a certain gear that will allow the car to move, but sometimes not shift. For example, certain GM cars in the past would shift into second gear only. This would allow them to move and even to be driven at a fair rate of speed if needed.
So, loss of data, loss of ability to shift. Normally this should set some sort of malfunction code which would point out which data is missing. Something like "Input speed sensor out of range" or something. (P0715 for example).
Or, from one internet source: (this is pretty common information for those who work on cars)
"Transmission “Fail-Safe” or “Limp” ModeWhen a transmission fault is detected by the OBD-II system, the transmission may go into fail-safe (or “limp” mode as it is also called) in order to protect the transmission from internal damage that could be caused by the fault. While in fail-safe (or limp mode) the transmission will be locked in either 2nd. or 3rd. gear.
The purpose of the transmission fail-safe mode is to allow you to drive home or to the nearest repair facility to have the transmission checked out. While in limp mode, you should limit your speed to between 35 and 40 mph. Driving at increased speeds or for a long distance while in fail-safe will cause the transmission to overheat, which can quickly damage friction clutches, seals and other internal transmission components.
Note: A transmission in fail-safe (or limp mode) will sometimes correct itself when the engine is shut off and restarted. So, if you find yourself in this situation, find a safe place to pull off the road and shut the engine off. Wait one minute and then restart the engine."
And if you have read this far...about those speed sensors: The controller knows the gear ratios. It knows when a shift is made. It tracks the time it takes to make that shift and verifies that once it is made there is no slippage. If the shift time is off the controller can vary the output volume or pressure of the transmission oil pump. Upping the pressure will speed up the shift and make it more firm. Lowering pressure gives a more relaxed and softer shift. Power factor of the engine will change the pressure applied. Hard acceleration will cause it to make "snappy" shifts. Light throttle will lower pressure for soft shifting. The controller will actually monitor shift times and slippage and anticipate the pressure needed for the way the car is driven. For example, if a clutch is a little worn the controller can add more pressure on that speed to adjust the shift time up to where it should be and to insure the clutch will not slip. This feature not only makes the car nicer to drive it also gives the transmission a longer life as it works to cut down on clutch plate wear. So, the transmission is "adaptive" in that it learns how you drive and it adjusts the shifting accordingly.
So, no thee is not a dirty oil sensor on this car! There are, however, a long list of other sensors that affect the shifting of the transmission.
BTW: There are vehicles that have dirty oil sensors. (from many years back before we had computers tracking driving history to determine service intervals).
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04-20-2021, 08:08 PM
#8
Suzuka Master
Dear "russianDude".... In the interest of helping others to understand how a modern computer controlled automobile actually functions I will take a few minutes to address your comment.
Please go back and read what I wrote and this time don't put any extra words in that were not in the comment. There is nothing in my post that says or implies there is a sensor that monitors fluid condition, I have no idea where you got that
Please go back and read what I wrote and this time don't put any extra words in that were not in the comment. There is nothing in my post that says or implies there is a sensor that monitors fluid condition, I have no idea where you got that
Last edited by russianDude; 04-20-2021 at 08:10 PM.
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hand-filer (04-29-2021)
04-20-2021, 09:19 PM
#9
10th Gear
Join Date: Aug 2019
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I had this same issue after several visits to the dealer I took it to a different dealer they found the transmission was severely overfilled. They drained it to the correct level and the issue never happened again. Mine was overfilled from Acura. I took several videos of this so the dealer didn't think I was crazy. The fluid I guess gets air in it and causes the car to not shift. Turning the car off and back on resets it
Last edited by ray1968; 04-20-2021 at 09:29 PM.
04-21-2021, 10:51 AM
#11
I have a 2019 SH-AWD A-Spec with 30K, and this happened to me yesterday! Had just driven in rush hour morning traffic and when I got off at my exit the auto-idle kicked in. When I took my foot off the gas the car "felt" like it had a CVT the motor revved up, but wouldn't shift. I took out my phone and took a video of the car to show the dealer. The worrisome issue is if or when this happens I may need to get out of a driving situation and this could be a road hazard! I have not had my transmission fluid changed, but my transfer case had been leaking and the dealer changed it under warranty two weeks ago.
04-21-2021, 11:58 AM
#12
If it seems to long or you already know all of this stuff, just don't bother to read it... Have a nice day!
04-23-2021, 06:39 PM
#13
hans471: I appreciated the lesson, had no idea of all that was involved in making this transmission work as well as it has for me. I come here once in awhile to learn something new about my 2020 RDX Advanced, and this is exactly the type of post I hope to find. Never too old to learn...
04-28-2021, 08:39 PM
#16
No, as a educator we tend to explain how things work so that people who don't know will learn something new. Many people don't know how things work but would like to know more.
If it seems to long or you already know all of this stuff, just don't bother to read it... Have a nice day!
If it seems to long or you already know all of this stuff, just don't bother to read it... Have a nice day!
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hand-filer (04-29-2021)
04-29-2021, 11:56 AM
#17
Default
05-31-2022, 02:58 PM
#18
Update, the dealer just called and said they can't reproduce the problem (surprise!) and the data logs don't show any issues at all, including on Saturday which is the last time it happened!
He said the first recommended transmission fluid change is at 30k to 36k miles. And, the sensors monitor fluid levels and condition, it looks good as of now!!
Anybody else have any transmission problems like this?
Thanks
He said the first recommended transmission fluid change is at 30k to 36k miles. And, the sensors monitor fluid levels and condition, it looks good as of now!!
Anybody else have any transmission problems like this?
Thanks
The following users liked this post:
anoop (06-01-2022)
06-01-2022, 11:53 AM
#19
Three Wheelin'
06-01-2022, 08:31 PM
#20
Instructor
My RDX clunks twice when I shift into reverse. I push the button, it “shifts”, then you wait about about 1.4 seconds and it will shift it again and you can back up. You can feel it in the brake pedal resistance.
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gordonary (06-07-2022)
06-07-2022, 07:08 PM
#21
06-13-2022, 05:23 PM
#22
Touring
I thought that was normal. The transmission just seems to need to do a lot of thinking things over before it goes into reverse or drive.
12-08-2022, 04:05 PM
#23
This exact problem happened on my 2019 RDX Tech that I owned since Oct 2018. This happened only once. I have about 45k miles on it and always had it serviced at the dealer. This car had so many glitches, which I tried to take care of under warranty. It’s been very frustrating. I’m out of warranty now…just biding my time until I upgrade to a better car.
12-08-2022, 04:19 PM
#24
Three Wheelin'
This exact problem happened on my 2019 RDX Tech that I owned since Oct 2018. This happened only once. I have about 45k miles on it and always had it serviced at the dealer. This car had so many glitches, which I tried to take care of under warranty. It’s been very frustrating. I’m out of warranty now…just biding my time until I upgrade to a better car.
12-15-2022, 09:35 PM
#25
I had this happen multiple times with my 2019 RDX, and documented every time it happened. The first dealer and myself thought it was the intercooler issue, so they went ahead and put a new intercooler in. It happened again after some time, but only after Auto Idle Stop disengaged. I started working with another dealer, and they diagnosed it as the transmission! So at about 42,000 miles I got a brand new transmission, and 3,000 miles later the car's driving great. The issue hasn't come back.
I bought it as a CPO last May, and I'm glad I got the extended warranty because I've gone through soooooo many warranty repairs w/ this car. It's probably spent about 2-3 months in the shop combined during my time of ownership. Makes me think the previous owner (it was a leased vehicle) didn't drive it much, or didn't care to get anything fixed.
I bought it as a CPO last May, and I'm glad I got the extended warranty because I've gone through soooooo many warranty repairs w/ this car. It's probably spent about 2-3 months in the shop combined during my time of ownership. Makes me think the previous owner (it was a leased vehicle) didn't drive it much, or didn't care to get anything fixed.
Last edited by Baconsoup; 12-15-2022 at 09:37 PM.
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anoop (12-15-2022)
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