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Here is my Class III Draw-Tite hitch on my Canadian 2020 ASpec
It does not stick out as much as others have said.
All my existing accessories are 2 inch so this was a must have.
Remember the Factory 1-1/4 hitch has a lower cover that sticks out an extra 2 inches so it only appears that it sticks out less than the Draw-Tite.
See the top down picture to judge the actual amount it sticks out by.
Easy 20 minute install. The hardest part was removing the exhaust rubbers from their hangers.
Still have full access to the spare tire as well. It is an SUV and I need the Class III. Top Down View
Was this welded on or was it a bolt on? Also if i weld a hitch would it void my warranty or is it consider structural damage, due to frame modifications?
Was this welded on or was it a bolt on? Also if i weld a hitch would it void my warranty or is it consider structural damage, due to frame modifications?
Two issues with welding:
1) Structural modification, so if there's a problem with structure, it's on you. Shouldn't affect the rest of the factory warranty, although it could invite a fight.
2) If it's an electric welder, there is a good chance you would fry electronics, and the car is full of them. And the warranty wouldn't help you. And that would be bad.
1) Structural modification, so if there's a problem with structure, it's on you. Shouldn't affect the rest of the factory warranty, although it could invite a fight.
2) If it's an electric welder, there is a good chance you would fry electronics, and the car is full of them. And the warranty wouldn't help you. And that would be bad.
Ahhh! I see. I was curious if welding will do more harm then good. Thanks so much! I’m just going to stick with the bolt on and when I install it, I’ll post pics! Thanks brotha.
I also installed the Draw-Tite hitch (part number 76268). Some notes:
1) Re. the installation:
- The exhaust removal pliers tool were essential. The hitch has a very tight fit and I had to slightly push one of the mufflers to the side, or I'd have been unable to mount the hitch. You can find that tool at Home Depot or other online stores.
- There was no need to lift the car on jack stands
- I got help from a friend, it would have been harder for me to do the installation by myself
2) The hitch is sold by several companies. Shop around, since the most well known of them wanted to charge twice as much as the company I got it from! See https://www.draw-tite.com/ecommerce-dealers for a list of authorized dealers.
3) The hitch is very sturdy. Also, I wanted one with a 2" opening since my bike rack was previously used on a 1.25" hitch (different car) and it was pretty wobbly. Therefore I decided to go with this one vs. the dealer-installed hitch. Also, the cost was slightly better for this option ($115 plus half hour of work vs $900 for the part and labor at the dealer ...).
4) Compared to the dealer-installed hitch, this one does stick out a bit (2-3 inches) and is a little bit lower (perhaps 7" clearance vs 8", although I didn't measure it). I don't find either aspect objectionable. By coincidence, I noticed how a "BMW hitch" mounted on a BMW X5 was protruding much more (4-5"), so compared to that this one is perfectly fine.
I did the same and happy with the result. I had the same wrestling match with the muffler hangers, especially the rear on (busted knuckle). Only had to drop on muffler. I noticed that my RDX has the "short" sensor and but it doesn't work with the hitch so I'll be moving it further to the left when I get a chance.
Is to bad that CURT Hitch, doesn't have one for 2019 RDX, their trailer hitch design is much better that Draw-Tite..
I've been anxious for CURT to release one also. I inquired again and received this response yesterday.
"The hitch for the 2019 RDX is still in engineering. The engineers are working on issues of the hitch interfering with the kick sensor for the tailgate. Please continue to check back periodically for updates."
I think it will be worth the wait for me as I do have the Advance trim with the kick sensor. Hopefully soon!
I've been anxious for CURT to release one also. I inquired again and received this response yesterday.
"The hitch for the 2019 RDX is still in engineering. The engineers are working on issues of the hitch interfering with the kick sensor for the tailgate. Please continue to check back periodically for updates."
I think it will be worth the wait for me as I do have the Advance trim with the kick sensor. Hopefully soon!
I've been anxious for CURT to release one also. I inquired again and received this response yesterday.
"The hitch for the 2019 RDX is still in engineering. The engineers are working on issues of the hitch interfering with the kick sensor for the tailgate. Please continue to check back periodically for updates."
I think it will be worth the wait for me as I do have the Advance trim with the kick sensor. Hopefully soon!
Originally Posted by Yotrek
I am with you, probably worth to wait..
Might be a long wait. The stock sensor for the Advance is centered right above the centerline of the hitch. That's why the Acura solution is to replace the sensor with a shorter one that mounts off to the side.
Might be a long wait. The stock sensor for the Advance is centered right above the centerline of the hitch. That's why the Acura solution is to replace the sensor with a shorter one that mounts off to the side.
Here's what Curt reply to me today:
Hello,
As of right now we do not have one available. However there is a hitch in testing right now.
Might be a long wait. The stock sensor for the Advance is centered right above the centerline of the hitch. That's why the Acura solution is to replace the sensor with a shorter one that mounts off to the side.
I have a stock Advance SH-AWD & it came from the factory with the short sensor and is about 6” to the left of center. I have room to move it further left but haven’t gotten to it yet. The sensor, where it is now, will function if I draw my hand between the hitch and the sensor so the addition of the hitch doesn’t affect functionality
I have a stock Advance SH-AWD & it came from the factory with the short sensor and is about 6” to the left of center. I have room to move it further left but haven’t gotten to it yet. The sensor, where it is now, will function if I draw my hand between the hitch and the sensor so the addition of the hitch doesn’t affect functionality
I wonder if that's a change. I DIY installed the hitch and wiring harness in my early production 2019 Advance SH-AWD and my admittedly somewhat fuzzy memory is that the sensor was centered. The "kick zone" was certainly centered.
I didn't read the manual carefully and had hard time to install at first.
However, I was able to install it. It looks nice. It gives my RDX even more sporty. I'd like to share the YT with more detail here:
If you cut off the corners of the excess pipe beyond the plate, you can install on the forward welded nut plates. The corners would otherwise hit the mufflers. It’s a tighter squeeze to get the hitch in forward but the side plates of the hitch do have some flex. This won’t work if you’ve got a spare tire, but we don’t and prefer to not to have a shin bruiser for the utility of a bike rack or cargo carrier.
Thought I'd share in this thread for anyone who is still looking to find the right bike rack. My husband and I just installed the Thule Helium Platform bike rack and I must say, I am super happy! Perfect fit with the OEM hitch. (:
My vintage 2" Thule T2 + 2 might exceed the RDX hitch rating without any bikes on it. Solid American steel. Built to survive the apocalypse. And a real b*tch to install.
I wonder if that's a change. I DIY installed the hitch and wiring harness in my early production 2019 Advance SH-AWD and my admittedly somewhat fuzzy memory is that the sensor was centered. The "kick zone" was certainly centered.
My bad. I finally got a chance to crawl under and check out the sensor. On closer inspection I found that the "black box" that I thought was the actual sensor was in fact just the junction and that the actual "sensor" is an antenna that looks like a long piece of coax about 2' long. The way installed looks to leave no chance of moving it. So...I'm assuming the long vs short sensor refers to the actual antenna portion. Without seeing a "short" version I can only assume. In any event it's no moving and I'll just live with hitting the switch near the license plate.
I did finally get to wiring in the Tekonsha trailer connector/converter box. Apparently there are two versions depending on whether you have a 12 feed in the vehicle trailer connector. I have to locate a 12v supply for the Tekonsha. There is a relay under the storage on a cross member that energizes with the ignition. Don't know what else it goes to but it was a convenient 12v source.
My bad. I finally got a chance to crawl under and check out the sensor. On closer inspection I found that the "black box" that I thought was the actual sensor was in fact just the junction and that the actual "sensor" is an antenna that looks like a long piece of coax about 2' long. The way installed looks to leave no chance of moving it. So...I'm assuming the long vs short sensor refers to the actual antenna portion. Without seeing a "short" version I can only assume. In any event it's no moving and I'll just live with hitting the switch near the license plate.
I did finally get to wiring in the Tekonsha trailer connector/converter box. Apparently there are two versions depending on whether you have a 12 feed in the vehicle trailer connector. I have to locate a 12v supply for the Tekonsha. There is a relay under the storage on a cross member that energizes with the ignition. Don't know what else it goes to but it was a convenient 12v source.
Thanks for the update.
For the full OEM install on my Advance, the replacement bumper panel insert has mounting sites for the "short sensor", to the left of center. IIRC it just attaches with a few screws, and it uses the same connector as the original sensor.
But after almost 2 years, I'm barely recovered from the trauma of those OEM wiring harness instructions. OMG. Acura is usually better than that.
If transporting mountain bikes,there should be only 1 rack on you list, IUp USA quick rack, nothing but the tires are touched. I have an extension on mine for two bikes, there are different models, such as heavy duty, if you want to carry up to 4 bikes ,(HD requires 2 inch). Here is my Aspec with 1 1/4 inch rack
Last edited by Phil Onyschuk; 05-13-2020 at 10:21 AM.
Hi -- quite a bit confused by this thread. I have a stock 2020 SH-AWD Advance. I am looking for a hitch for a bike rack only. So whatever the wiring harness issue is, not an issue for me. A very handy friend who has done it before is willing to install the hitch for me. My questions are:
1. what are the exact OEM parts I need?
2. is the hands free tailgate opening still going to work after this is installed?
There's a reason you are confused, and it's because Acura made this really confusing. I'm gonna put my reputation on the line and try to get this right.
Let's review a few things:
There is an insert panel in the rear bumper for all 3rd-gen RDXs. This gets replaced when you install an OEM hitch. It MUST get replaced unless you want to cut a big groove in the original panel to accommodate the hitch receiver tube. ( Someone here has done this; it might be in this thread ). This original panel is different for A-Spec than other trims. Cuz A-Spec. For Advance, the stock hands-free sensor is mounted to the original bumper panel insert.
There are different replacement panels, depending on whether or not you plan to use the hands-free access tailgate feature. ( HFA is available as a kit for any trim, but it requires installation of a physical push-button switch in the rear cargo area so it can be turned off as needed. This is done in software for Advance ).
The replacement panel for the Advance trim ( or other trims with HFA kit ) is designed to accommodate a replacement hands-free sensor that mounts to the left of the hitch receiver tube. It will NOT allow you to mount the original sensor. But the replacement sensor will function with the original wiring harness; you don't need to install the trailer wiring harness just to use this sensor.
So, ( drum roll please... ). To install the OEM hitch on a 3rd-gen RDX Advance and retain HFA functionality, here's what you need:
There's a reason you are confused, and it's because Acura made this really confusing. I'm gonna put my reputation on the line and try to get this right.
Let's review a few things:
There is an insert panel in the rear bumper for all 3rd-gen RDXs. This gets replaced when you install an OEM hitch. It MUST get replaced unless you want to cut a big groove in the original panel to accommodate the hitch receiver tube. ( Someone here has done this; it might be in this thread ). This original panel is different for A-Spec than other trims. Cuz A-Spec. For Advance, the stock hands-free sensor is mounted to the original bumper panel insert.
There are different replacement panels, depending on whether or not you plan to use the hands-free access tailgate feature. ( HFA is available as a kit for any trim, but it requires installation of a physical push-button switch in the rear cargo area so it can be turned off as needed. This is done in software for Advance ).
The replacement panel for the Advance trim ( or other trims with HFA kit ) is designed to accommodate a replacement hands-free sensor that mounts to the left of the hitch receiver tube. It will NOT allow you to mount the original sensor. But the replacement sensor will function with the original wiring harness; you don't need to install the trailer wiring harness just to use this sensor.
So, ( drum roll please... ). To install the OEM hitch on a 3rd-gen RDX Advance and retain HFA functionality, here's what you need:
Thank you very much. This is exactly what I was looking for. Sadly, I think it is more than my friend bargained for when he volunteered. I’m also worried about messing this up because this is a lease. So, on the one hand, I don’t think I have the option to lose the HF function. And on the other hand, is it worth it to pay someone to do this for a car I will have for only 2.5 more years? Where would I even go that I could feel confident they would do it right (other than a dealer)? I must have asked the dealer 985 times if it was a problem to put on a hitch. I guess I should have talked to the service dept too.
Option B is to install an aftermarket hitch. Those extend below the entire bumper cover and don't require replacement of the bumper panel. I'm sure this will be OK if you turn off HFA in software. HFA might work with the hitch installed, but I think it might be flakey.
At lease end, pulling off an aftermarket hitch would be easy. Dealer might do it for free. Or they might leave it and let a buyer decide.
Aftermarket may not look as slick but it’s cheaper than factory, and you can get a sightless beefier one with better tongue rating (250 vs 150 for factory). I don’t think it would cost much to have a mechanic put it on - shouldn’t take more than an hour from the loks of it. That’s what I’m planning to do at some point.
Aftermarket may not look as slick but it’s cheaper than factory, and you can get a sightless beefier one with better tongue rating (250 vs 150 for factory). I don’t think it would cost much to have a mechanic put it on - shouldn’t take more than an hour from the loks of it. That’s what I’m planning to do at some point.
Is there one in particular? The only one I saw was one of the ones referenced above, and it comes with instructions about moving the exhaust and the sensor, etc.
AFAIK Draw-Tite still has the only aftermarket hitches for this vehicle ( 2" and 1-1/4" ). I don't think you need to touch the HFA sensor if you turn the feature off, and I don't see anything in Draw-Tite's installation instructions about that.
Is there one in particular? The only one I saw was one of the ones referenced above, and it comes with instructions about moving the exhaust and the sensor, etc.
I thought there were two brands, but maybe it was just the two models by DrawTite I was thinking of. I think the 2” one actually has a tongue rating of 350 lbs.
Ive looked at the instructions for that one and it just requires the exhaust to be lowered, which doesn’t sound that hard. But I haven’t done this yet so I don’t know.
I thought there were two brands, but maybe it was just the two models by DrawTite I was thinking of. I think the 2” one actually has a tongue rating of 350 lbs.
Ive looked at the instructions for that one and it just requires the exhaust to be lowered, which doesn’t sound that hard. But I haven’t done this yet so I don’t know.
If you read the fine print, the overall hitch rating is limited to the LESSER of the vehicle rating and the rating of the hitch itself. Always. 3rd-gen RDX has a hitch rating of 1500 pounds towed load ( with two 150 pound occupants and nothing else in the vehicle ), and 150 pounds tongue weight.
And yeah, the sales sites tend to gloss that over.
Can you get away with more tongue weight? Maybe, maybe not. Depends on the load: how far the weight is suspended out the back, whether you travel glass smooth concrete or a bumpy dirt road, etc. But as far as we know, that's outside the design limits of the vehicle.
Has anyone looked at U-haul's site about this? I just plugged in 2020 RDX, and it came up with an option, but it seemed to be a ball hitch and not a receiver hitch. I'm not sure that it would work for a bike rack? Also, not sure if they would know how to deal with this sensor issue?
09-11-2019, 02:26 PM
