Vegas RDX

Any one know the pattern of tire rotaion on a 2019 RDX Aspec?

mrgold35

I've always stuck with doing a rotation and balance every oil change to make sure each tire hits all 4 corners during its 40,000-50,000 mile treadlife. Easier for me to keep it straight in my head that way. I go to Discount tires for front-to-back and then left-to-right on the next oil change with the lifetime warranty (I do this for all 4 Acura's). My driver front gets the most wear; while, my passenger rear see the least with my driving habits. It is about $35-$40 per tire for lifetime rotation, balance, flat repair, and road hazard warranty. It has paid for itself compared to Acura prices for one rotation/balance and the 4-5 tires I've replaced because of non-repairable flats.

quantum7

Rotation pattern is front to back, and cross backs to opposite front. That is if you have regular non-directional tires (which I believe most tires are).....directional are just front to back and back to front on same side...no cross over. Directional will have arrows on sidewall telling you that they are directional. Should be in manual too....I tried to copy and paste and something happened.

Vegas RDX

Manual says nothing about tire rotation other than it's supposed to be done every 1200 miles. What gives?

Wander

LOL. Where did you read that?

MM code "1" is for tire rotation, and for my Acuras it seems to come up with every oil change request ( A or B ). YMMV

BTW, winter tires tend to be directional so rotation is front-to-back.

All-season tires typically are not directional, but I'm too lazy to cross-rotate and I don't have a clue what my local Discount Tire does if I decide to let them do the rotation.

Some performance tires are directional, but I'm not sure about the OEM RDX A-Spec tires. If the tires have a "rotation direction" arrow on the sidewall, that's a pretty sure sign. It's also pretty easy to spot a directional tread pattern.

Wander

Apparently the Goodyear RS-A tires that are OEM for RDX A-spec are asymmetric, but not directional. So AFAIK cross-rotation would be appropriate.

https://www.goodyear.com/en-US/tire-...-tire-mounting

quantum7

There is an online owners manual that I downloaded from somewhere....I think someone put a link on this site. That shows the rotation pattern.
I do tire rotation when I change my oil (about every 5000 miles) on my 07 TL. Conventional oil 290,000 miles.

quantum7

mrgold35

I don't know if the +19 RDX is just as sensitive to road conditions as the previous Acura versions. I got in the habit of doing Road Force balance when I purchase the tires new (no extra cost at Discount when I purchase tires new). Adjust the PSI as needed depending on time of year and levels in each tire. Rotation/cross-rotations+ balance every oil change (lifetime at Discount). Alignment with new tires, after any suspension work, or after +10,000 miles of driving ($100 extra for lifetime with Firestone). The alignments are also good for spotting suspension issues before cause problems like worn control arms or camber issues. Makes a big difference for me with 4 vehicles with +470,000 miles between them to keep up on tire care.

Wander

High mileage vehicles tend to have more issues with alignment because of suspension component wear.

Having said that, I've had brand new vehicles aligned because of minor issues. But I'm a princess about such things.

As for tire balance, to minimize issues buy quality tires, keep the pressures correct and don't neglect rotations. Crappy tires with poor quality control won't balance.

Vegas RDX

Interesting tire PSI is 36 per labeling on door frame. Mine were 30 with nirto green gas. My gas millage was weak as I thought so pumped up to 36 PSI and well see. What are you running in yours?

JDMaccord3.5

It was at 40 on all four when I took ownership, I have kept it like that since then... it was "supposedly" filled with Nitrogen, not even sure if that is true.

NooYawkuh

I'm sure it's at least 70% nitrogen.

XMDXernowRDX

Lol, nice!

mrgold35

The vehicles usually come from the factory at +40 PSI to help from getting flat spots on the tires if they sit on the lot for weeks/months. Having +40 PSI in the southwest can mean 45-50 PSI with temps +100 degrees. I always adjust my PSI down 2-3 levels below the door jam recommended level in summer since it will jump back up 2-6 PSI because of the heat, sun, and roads hot enough to fry an egg. I go 2-4 PSI over recommended in winter because the TPMS can go off when the morning temps get in the teens and back to normal PSI in the afternoon at 40-50 degrees. It also doesn't help being 5000 to 8500 feet and TPMS and hand gauge don't match. The range gets larger the higher you go up in elevation.

Wander

The tire pressure listed on the door jamb is recommended COLD inflation pressure ( car not recently driven). It is known and expected that operating temperature of the tire, and hence operating pressure, will be somewhat higher. Tires heat up from internal friction when you drive, irrespective of ambient temperature. Tire sidewalls heat up more at lower pressures because the sidewall flexes more.

Extreme ambient temperature swings require some compromises. Just try not to run tires below recommended "operating" pressure ( a few PSI above "cold" pressure ) at highway speeds, or you risk sidewall failure. That's bad.

Being afraid to adjust pressure because the tires were filled with "precious" nitrogen is one of the strongest arguments for just using the air that is widely available and mostly free.

tsxowner1

Mine was set to 40 psi when I took delivery of my A-Spec. I set it to 36 the next morning and think it made the ride less jarring.

tsxowner1

I’m about to do tire rotation on my ‘20 A-Spec, so follow the Tire w/o rotation marks?

EXCALIBUR1

That's affirm Apollo 13.

russianDude

Do you lift the rear of the car to swap rears tires, and then lift each side to swap tires on each side of the vehicle?
trying to avoid keeping car on 4 jacks at the same time...

EXCALIBUR1

I use a floor jack to lift the RDX up by the front and rear jack points, and set it up on four jack stands.

russianDude

thats what I think of doing too, do you lift rear or front first.

quantum7

yeah....just use four jack stands. Take all four off while I am doing oil and transmission fluid and rotate. Cheap and easy.
Lift front first.

EXCALIBUR1

I lift the front first, but before doing that, I chock the back tires to prevent them from possibly rolling back. Safety first.

EXCALIBUR1

I concur.

Wander

You probably mean you take off all four wheels AFTER YOU FINISH crawling around under the car doing a fluid change.

Jack stands aren't a shop lift.

Jack stands are reasonably safe IF they are decent quality, appropriately sized, have a solid substrate ( concrete ), and are properly loaded ( not tipped ).

When it comes to DIY, this isn't the kiddie pool. People get maimed or killed by cars or equipment falling on them. All the time.

I have floor jacks and jack stands, but I slide under the vehicle without lifting it to do fluid changes. If I can't fit, I'll take it to a shop.

And I often do seasonal tire/wheels swaps in my driveway, one wheel at a time, but IMO cross-rotation is a quick easy job for a shop or a PITA dangerous DIY job.

russianDude

You dont have to go under the car when you rotating tires, only need to lift high enough to remove a tire.
you can do tire rotation by lifting only one side of the car: left side, right side, front/back.

russianDude

Just looked at rear jacking point, its a piece of metal welded that is sticking out vertically. Its welded in, will it bent from the floor jack? does not look like a stable thing

EXCALIBUR1

Negative Ghostrider, The welded jack point on the rear of the RDX will NOT bend. I usually put a wood block on the saddle of the floor jack before lifting up the RDX at the front/rear jack points.

quantum7

Nope....I lift car, remove tires. Drain fluids. Do an inspection of the suspension, brakes, etc while everything drains. Refill fluids and then rotate tires. I lay the tires flat and slide them under the car sub frame as back up to the jack stands. Jack stands are excellent quality, always level in my garage on level concrete floor and are always centered on my lift points. I do not crawl under a car unless I am certain that it will not fall, but even if a stand weld were to fail, the tires/rims would be back up. I also have a big - ass log that I slide under frame in the front. I used to have a Ford Ecoline Van in the 80s that had such high clearance that you could easily slide under with no lifting....that was easy.

russianDude

thanks. I tried lifting RDX without wood block, I have saddle pad that is rubber and it was not touching anything surrounding.

russianDude

I plan to check under car and change oil only when front is lifted so I can put extra Pair of jack stands as a double failure scenario. Also, using wheel chokes in the back

quantum7

I actually just got in from doing an oil change and tire rotation....07 TL at 299438 miles. Most definitely only work on car if you are following a safe procedure and back systems up. I like doing my own work and I have saved thousands of dollars vs sending to the dealership. Yesterday I had to replace a leaking rear caliper. Dealer wants like $500 for the job and I think it cost me around $75 for the remanufactured caliper (which they also use) and some DOT 3. The investment in some good tools is well worth it especially if you purchased the car and plan on keeping for the long haul. Good luck russianDude and enjoy.

russianDude

thanks. Well, for all these people that go to discount tires to rotate their tires, have you considered:
1. Tires need to be torques to 80lbs/ft. Do you think discount tires does it? I seriously doubt it, they use air gun and thats it (saw with my own eyes at pepboys)
2. Those air guns, so they scratch lug nuts and wheels? There is a good chance they can!
3. How do they handle your aspec wheel during rotation, do they handle them with care to make
sure they dont get dropped on their face or scratched? You think those kids making min wage give a $&@$ about your expensive aspec wheels?

If you still not convinced to DIY, use dealer at least, dont go to cheapo tire place

EXCALIBUR1

Redundancy is a good thing. Good luck.

Wander

Well, risk assessment is a personal thing. But I think we're done giving advice for newbies.

Somehow I survived the stupid stuff I have done over the years, but I attribute that more to pure dumb luck than prescience or skill. And Lady Luck is notoriously fickle.

Having said that, may Lady Luck smile on your next adventure.

russianDude

Yes, need to be very careful, and have a redundancy plan in case things fail. At the same time, I would not want to scare people to the point they are afraid to do anything with the car. Life is dangerous, heck, driving a car is dangerous. 😀

tsxowner1

I just rotated mine last week. I only have a pair of jack stands so I put them in the front. I only used the jack to lift the rear. Not the safest method but I was ok with it since I wasn’t going under the car.
I was hoping to get those rotor screws out but I couldn’t find my impact tool. I’m trying to prevent future headache when I change breaks in the future

Hhurk

I noticed you were the only one that mentioned lug nuts torqued to 80 lbs. I checked the owners manual to see the torque value and it is only mentioned once and it is pertaining to changing the temp spare. So I take it 80 lbs is for all tires?

russianDude

All whees need to be torqued to proper specs. Many places do not do it because it requires extra time.
20" ASPEC wheels need:
Wheel nut torque: 80 lb-ft (108 N·m).
This is from Acura document:

http://www.urvi.net/forumfiles/SB/BII11735-28.PDF