Synthetic motor Oil

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Old 06-26-2018, 10:00 PM
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Originally Posted by horseshoez
You missed the key element of the quote, there is a very small amount of oil used in the turbine bearings (there is no way such a small oil supply could cool much), and if the water supply cooling the bearings is interrupted when the turbine is spinning at high speed, the oil will coke. It has been a while since I looked at the numbers (since like the mid 1990s), but if I recall, the coolant did over 90% of the job of cooling.
Well, I guess I'm still missing the point. The article quoted clearly states that the purpose of water coolant is to act as a heat sink after engine shutdown. It doesn't mention any cooling benefit while the engine is running. I agree that the water coolant most likely provides some cooling during normal operation, but I can't find any reference that actually says that.
Old 06-27-2018, 03:51 AM
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Originally Posted by frankjnjr
FWIW: I'm no OIL EXPERT, but I do know, that oil, essentially, NEVER WEARS OUT! It does, however, become contaminated. Two major contaminants, are CONDENSATION, AND RAW FUEL. A major contributor, to both contaminants, is operating any internal combustion engine, without allowing said engine, to reach normal operating temperature. Based on type of use, for someone driving 2.5 miles, one way, I would consider that, SEVERE SERVICE, and adhere to the FACTORY RECOMMENDATION, of 3,750 miles, or 6 months, assuming the use of Dyno, or Synthetic Blend type oil. It would seem to me, that even if Full Synthetic were used, Water and Raw fuel contamination, would still be a factor. It might be interesting, if one of our fellow members, running Full Synthetic, for One year, or 12K, would be willing to have Blackstone analyze a sample. I would be happy to do the same, just to compare the degree of water, and fuel, in each sample.

I thought that Dino oil cou”d break down under harsh heat conditions and synthetic was less likely to, granted those abusive conditions ar not likely under normal engine use and I believe your post on contamination is correct and my understanding is the additives are what helps the oil maintain its properties and as they get contaminated they break down and loose their effectiveness. When I owned cars oil was done every 5K miles regardless of MID and while that might be overkill it surely was not hurting. On my lease I wait until the MID squawks at me and bring it in.
Old 06-27-2018, 06:47 AM
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Originally Posted by frankjnjr
FWIW: I'm no OIL EXPERT, but I do know, that oil, essentially, NEVER WEARS OUT! It does, however, become contaminated. Two major contaminants, are CONDENSATION, AND RAW FUEL. A major contributor, to both contaminants, is operating any internal combustion engine, without allowing said engine, to reach normal operating temperature. Based on type of use, for someone driving 2.5 miles, one way, I would consider that, SEVERE SERVICE, and adhere to the FACTORY RECOMMENDATION, of 3,750 miles, or 6 months, assuming the use of Dyno, or Synthetic Blend type oil. It would seem to me, that even if Full Synthetic were used, Water and Raw fuel contamination, would still be a factor. It might be interesting, if one of our fellow members, running Full Synthetic, for One year, or 12K, would be willing to have Blackstone analyze a sample. I would be happy to do the same, just to compare the degree of water, and fuel, in each sample.
Not so sure about that statement for oil "never wearing out". It will actually wear out if you leave it in your engine long enough.

The first to go are the additives, but oil does oxidize over time. It first breaks down in viscosity (through mechanical shear/high temps, in addition to fuel dilution), then will oxidize and thicken, and eventually sludge.
Old 06-27-2018, 09:49 AM
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Originally Posted by horseshoez
While there may not be much boost, the turbine is in fact still spinning.
Yes it's always spinning, and heating. And the higher the revs the higher the friction/heat. I think we all agree on that. ;-)

I'll get a coffee now, I need a boost.
Old 06-27-2018, 10:52 AM
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Originally Posted by hondu
Not so sure about that statement for oil "never wearing out". It will actually wear out if you leave it in your engine long enough.

The first to go are the additives, but oil does oxidize over time. It first breaks down in viscosity (through mechanical shear/high temps, in addition to fuel dilution), then will oxidize and thicken, and eventually sludge.
Yeah, that's essentially the same thing I've heard. My stepdad works in preventative maintenance at a Kennecott copper mine here in Utah. They work with a ton with different oils for their machinery and what not. They run all sorts of tests on it as well, both before and after use since they're dealing with super expensive equipment that requires really high precision and cleanliness - much higher than motor oil.. Their oil and lubricants are in a whole different league than motor oil but according to their observations, their oil still has a relatively long life left on it when it's changed as far as lubrication properties go. The main reason it's changed is due to contamination. But yes, it does wear out due to all the things you mentioned. In the case of oil not exposed to combustion, the molecular structure still breaks down over time and becomes contaminated by metal shavings.
Old 06-29-2018, 11:27 AM
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I was really surprised Acura does not require synthetic for the RDX. I hope it’s not due to the turbo. I’m old enough to remember the debate about using synthetic in new engines. It was the Corvette, if I remember right, that broke that myth years ago (1989?) with Mobile 1, and other manufactures slowly allowed synthetic after the first or second oil change. I wonder if Honda/Acura still uses that special break in oil it used to mention in their manuals warning owners they shouldn’t change the oil until the break in oil had done its job?

Last edited by Rexorg; 06-29-2018 at 11:36 AM.
Old 06-29-2018, 11:56 AM
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First gen rdx came with factory fill Mobil1, and they required synthetic oil that meets HTO6 specification.
My understanding that 0w-20 is a very high quality oil even when non-synthetic. For all practical reasons you will not be able to find non synthetic 0w-20 oil, someone mentioned synthetic blend is possible.
I dont care what manual says, my car gets only synthetic
Old 06-29-2018, 12:26 PM
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Agree.....I would definitely run full synthetic on the RDX. Between turbo and DI, full synthetic is the way to go. .....now just have to figure out which one....let the debate begin.
Old 06-29-2018, 12:32 PM
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Originally Posted by russianDude
...For all practical reasons you will not be able to find non synthetic 0w-20 oil, someone mentioned synthetic blend is possible...
I don't think I've ever seen a non-synthetic or syn-blend 0w-20. I know the Toyota branded 0w-20 is a syn-blend so if it's made for them I'm sure it's available under a different label as well.

Old 06-29-2018, 12:48 PM
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My dealer always used Acura-branded 5W-20 Synthetic Blend in my TLX 3.5.
For the RDX 2.0T, they will use Acura-branded 0W-20 Full Synthetic.

The third available Acura-branded oil is a 10W-30 'Ultimate Full Synthetic'

Acura and Honda-branded motor oils are manufactured by Phillips 66.
Old 06-29-2018, 12:52 PM
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Originally Posted by quantum7
Agree.....I would definitely run full synthetic on the RDX. Between turbo and DI, full synthetic is the way to go. .....now just have to figure out which one....let the debate begin.
Head to bobistheoilguy for that

Personally, I've always used Mobi1 Extended Performance. I just switched to Pennzoil Platinum with this last change. The idea is that because it's made from natural gas, that it has a more uniform layer of molecules than synthetics, since even synthetics usually use a dino oil base stock. But meh, any synthetic is likely to be more than enough for these mainstream engines.
Old 06-29-2018, 01:13 PM
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What I am really surprised is that after Honda developed new standard HTO-6 for synthetic oil to be up to Honda engine requirements, they are no longer insisting that you have to use HTO-6 compliant oil.
Old 06-29-2018, 01:15 PM
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Originally Posted by quantum7
Agree.....I would definitely run full synthetic on the RDX. Between turbo and DI, full synthetic is the way to go. .....now just have to figure out which one....let the debate begin.
Which brand/grade of synthetic oil is like religion; buy whichever you worship. In the end there will be no difference in how long the engine lasts.
Old 06-29-2018, 01:16 PM
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Originally Posted by losiglow
Head to bobistheoilguy for that

Personally, I've always used Mobi1 Extended Performance. I just switched to Pennzoil Platinum with this last change. The idea is that because it's made from natural gas, that it has a more uniform layer of molecules than synthetics, since even synthetics usually use a dino oil base stock. But meh, any synthetic is likely to be more than enough for these mainstream engines.
My understanding is Mobil went to GTL based oils a long time ago, and it was that switch which kicked off the whole Group III furor about them no longer producing fully synthetic Group IV PAO based oils.
Old 06-29-2018, 01:18 PM
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That's what I heard as well. Supposedly their extended performance, and new annual protection is Group IV PAO based.
Old 06-29-2018, 01:34 PM
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Originally Posted by losiglow
That's what I heard as well. Supposedly their extended performance, and new annual protection is Group IV PAO based.
As is their classic 0W-40.
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