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hardwired USB female for iphone charger and DashCam
I have 2017 MDX base model. I have an iPhone charger mount to windshield as picture above. I do not want to use Power Socket in the center pocket because I cannot close the lid due to the charger plug in. I would like to hardwired by using "Dual USB Car DC 12V-5V Inverter Female Hard Wired Charger for GPS Tablet Phone" and "Tap-A-Fuse" as picture above. The reason is more clean and look nice and no wire visible since it will be under the dash near the fuse box - driver side. I would like to use one usb female is for iPhone charger that attached to windshield and the other usb female is for Dashcam.
1) Will it be okay to connect to two devices?
2) Can I tap to fuse #13 ACC 7.5A by using a "Tap-a-fuse"? I hope that this is a fuse that when the engine off, all devices connected will not charge or turn-on.
3) Will it overload?
If everything are ok, i will do for the 2017 TLX base model also.
12V to 5V Dual USB Power Adapter Converter Cable Connector Car Charger For Phone
Item specifics:
Color: Black
Input Voltage: 12V
Output Voltage：5V3A Max
Dual USB output.
Rated power: 15W
Dimensions: 4.6x2.7x1.4cm
Cable Length: approx. 32.4cm
100% Brand new and high quality.
Light compact, convenient to use and transport
Low power consumption, high conversion rate
Short circuit / overheat protection.
Multifunctional product, perfect for travel use.
Glue craft: Adapt to harsh environments,Waterproof, Moistureproof, Earthquake Proof.
It can be used for LED car display, GPS, MP3, MP4 car DVD, hard disk player and the stereo.
This module is posted by epoxy so it's waterproof, shockproof, moistureproof, anti-dust and flame retardant
The module boasts of automatic protection function when over voltage, over current, over temperature and short
circuit braking and restore normal work after the conditions
Note: The red wire connects to the positive, the black wire connects to the negative
VIOFO A119 Capacitor Novatek 96660 2K 1080P 60fps Car Dash Camera DVR+GPS Module
Features:
2K 1440P 30fps / 1296P 30FPS/ 1080P 60fps/720P 30,60,120 FPS HD video audio recording
2.0 inch LCD screen
6G F1.8 and 160 degree wide angle lens
Novatek NT96660 chipset + OV4689 image sensor
Capacitor model for improved operating temperature records in loop recording
WDR function can switch on automatically to get sharp video recording quality
LDWS Function supports
G-Sensor / motion detection capabilities
GPS logger supports
Support TF card class 6 or above up to 64GB (not includes)
Power supply: 5V 1A
Have you tried the 5V power supply to see if it will charge/power the devices ? I have had devices that wont charge but run with some of these inexpensive power supplies. As far as the 7.5A circuit you can go to Harbor freight and get a ammeter for about $10.00 . It plugs into the fuse holder of the circuit you want to check and will let you see if the circuit has the reserves to handle the load.
Have you tried the 5V power supply to see if it will charge/power the devices ? I have had devices that wont charge but run with some of these inexpensive power supplies. As far as the 7.5A circuit you can go to Harbor freight and get a ammeter for about $10.00 . It plugs into the fuse holder of the circuit you want to check and will let you see if the circuit has the reserves to handle the load.
Sorry I can't be of more help .
thanks. When u say "ammeter'", do you mean multimeter like this picture and set to DCV 20.
I think it's ok to use either 7.5A or 10A "switch-in" from fusebox and put 5A on add-a-fuse along w/7.5A factory fuse. Based on his testing, it less than 4A usage.
I know I will not use the front cigarettes lighter socket because i hate lid opened. That fuse is locate passenger side. The fuse is 20A.
Can I use that fuse since Dual USB is already a step down inverter 12v-5v and then "Add-a-fuse"?
The "CTR ACC Socket" is a switch. It will not charge if engine is off. Only work when car is on.
That meter will do just fine. As far as fusing, stepping down from 12v to 5v doesn't change the amount of current available. That 5V supply can only provide a max of 3 Amps and the 12v circuit is limited by the fuse which is determined by car maker. You can put any size fuse or fuses in that circuit but DO NOT replace the original fuse with anytime large than what it was designed for.
By using the add a fuse you are not going thru the 7.5 A fuse but are tapping into the main supply feeding the fuse box. So yes you can put a larger fuse in the added circuit.
You can put the add a fuse in the circuit you suggested just don't replace the original fuse with anything larger.
Nice, I posted about this last month, wanted to do the same up front. I will be using the same or similar cpt power unit. Ill need to do some more research before putting it all together unless you get there first
Nice, I posted about this last month, wanted to do the same up front. I will be using the same or similar cpt power unit. Ill need to do some more research before putting it all together unless you get there first
I haven't get a chance to install yet. I'm thinking of using DRL fuse since Socket fuse have "power" all the time when checking with multimeter with engine off. But someone in the forum was saying that the socket fuse only have "power" for maybe 5 minute after door is lock and engine off. The only way for me to see if that is true, i will lock myself in the car for 5min or so to see if it actually has no "power" when door lock and engine off.
I haven't get a chance to install yet. I'm thinking of using DRL fuse since Socket fuse have "power" all the time when checking with multimeter with engine off. But someone in the forum was saying that the socket fuse only have "power" for maybe 5 minute after door is lock and engine off. The only way for me to see if that is true, i will lock myself in the car for 5min or so to see if it actually has no "power" when door lock and engine off.
Already made the wires.
I'll check where I tapped my power from when I hardwired the Power Magic Pro for my Dash Cam. My turns on with the ignition but also set to stay on (with a toggle of a button) from a second live circuit tap.
I'll check where I tapped my power from when I hardwired the Power Magic Pro for my Dash Cam. My turns on with the ignition but also set to stay on (with a toggle of a button) from a second live circuit tap.
What is your recommendation for Power Magic Pro setting so that I would not drain your car battery? I know my wife will never to remember to switch the Power Magic Pro switch off every time she leave the car. Will this drain the car battery overtime when putting 1 and 2 to 12V and 3,4,5 to infinity or what is the best setup to not drain the battery? Thanks
What is your recommendation for Power Magic Pro setting so that I would not drain your car battery? I know my wife will never to remember to switch the Power Magic Pro switch off every time she leave the car. Will this drain the car battery overtime when putting 1 and 2 to 12V and 3,4,5 to infinity or what is the best setup to not drain the battery? Thanks
I tapped into 12 (Igi FR) for ignition only and 20 (Smart ) constant power on. I kept mines at 12V and 6hr time limit. It does drain the power so I usually leave my the magic pro box off. The camera turns on only when the ignition is on. Every now and then I would switch magic pro on to constantly power the camera when the iginition is off and shut off when the car battery hits low voltage or the 6 hr limit.
The MDX, at least 2016, goes into limp mode when the battery is low. First sign is the auto-engine stop system followed by the nonessential systems (LKAS, IDS, CMBS, ACC).
I tapped into 12 (Igi FR) for ignition only and 20 (Smart ) constant power on. I kept mines at 12V and 6hr time limit. It does drain the power so I usually leave my the magic pro box off. The camera turns on only when the ignition is on. Every now and then I would switch magic pro on to constantly power the camera when the iginition is off and shut off when the car battery hits low voltage or the 6 hr limit.
The MDX, at least 2016, goes into limp mode when the battery is low. First sign is the auto-engine stop system followed by the nonessential systems (LKAS, IDS, CMBS, ACC).
why not use DRL fuse? I just finished installing. I tapped into DRL. This is a switch. When engine off, dashcam power off too.i don't want risk into battery draining. My connection as picture above.
why not use DRL fuse? I just finished installing. I tapped into DRL. This is a switch. When engine off, dashcam power off too.i don't want risk into battery draining. My connection as picture above.
I have two taps (Live and Ignition only). I don't remember why I didn't use the DRL when I was testing out the fuse box. I think the DRL was off when it hardwired to that fuse.
If you're going to have it shut off the camera with the car being off, why use a PMP? The PMP is for shutting off the drain when you hit a certain time or voltage. If not using those, just plain up tap the fuse with the tap-a-fuse and skip the PMP.
If you're going to have it shut off the camera with the car being off, why use a PMP? The PMP is for shutting off the drain when you hit a certain time or voltage. If not using those, just plain up tap the fuse with the tap-a-fuse and skip the PMP.
For me, I leave my camera on sometimes for the parking mode. Plus, I transferred my Dash Cam and PMP from when I had the 4G TL.
I read carcamcentral and they said to avoid both the Powermagic and PowerMagic Pro
Both the Powermagic and PowerMagic Pro shouldn’t be used. While it’s advertised in a number of places the 12V cutoff is too low for me to recommend.
Cellink Battery B 2.0 Generation is expensive but I think it's a good investment if you want parking mode on and not draining your car battery. Hardwired: car on for 15min and the battery can use up to 10hrs when engine off.
Yeah.. it sucks I have two brand new PMPs that I got a while back that I never put in and really don't prefer to put in now because of its reputation. I'm probably going to get either the Motopark or the Lukas (these used to be $30!).
Yeah.. it sucks I have two brand new PMPs that I got a while back that I never put in and really don't prefer to put in now because of its reputation. I'm probably going to get either the Motopark or the Lukas (these used to be $30!).
I don't really understand about how much 12.4V to cut off battery will drain car battery before that 12.4V cut off. Question: Let say my car battery is at 100% full. How much will the car battery drain after the 12.4V cut off on parking mode?
My driving habit. Weekday: drive about 10min to station. Park car from 7am-6pm, 11hrs engine off.
I know it's expensive but I might get Cellink Battery B 2.0 Generation just to be on a safe side. I hope this battery can stand the heat and cold weather esp i'm from the eastcoast.
Sorry for a stupid question, but where would I connect the ground wire? I looked around the fuse box and I didn't see any nut that would look like ground.
Sorry for a stupid question, but where would I connect the ground wire? I looked around the fuse box and I didn't see any nut that would look like ground.
If you look where the brake pedal on the driver side, you see 2 screw size 12mm. I use the top one and ground it their.
see picture, I box in light blue color. That is where i ground it but make sure u wire is not interfere with the pedal. I took picture from some1 in this forum.
If you look where the brake pedal on the driver side, you see 2 screw size 12mm. I use the top one and ground it their.
see picture, I box in light blue color. That is where i ground it but make sure u wire is not interfere with the pedal. I took picture from some1 in this forum.
I wanted my dashcam to come on when the engine is on and just goes off when the engine is off. However, I had try a few taps and for some reason, the camera stays on regardless. So I finally give up and just run the cord around the window silk and just plug it into the center cigarette later. Time to re-visit to see if the DRL tap will work on my 2016 MDX tech. Thanks again.
01-11-2017, 12:30 PM
