Hey Guys, getting ready to put on the summer wheels on the mdx and wanted to see what the wheel torque specs are for the mdx. I normally just torque down to 100ft/lbs as a rule of thumb on my cars but figured I would double check.

Also for the jacking points I was curious what spots to use. I know of the pinch welds on the sides in all four corners if I want to do one wheel at a time, but where should I jack to lift both fronts or rears simultaneously to mount jack stands at the pinch welds? Perhaps the rear diff or a spot under the front/rear cross member? Looked in the manual and didn't see anything listed. On my Accord you used the rear tow hook and the front cross member. Thanks.

 

Found on discount tire all Acuras are 80ft/lbs.

 

the earlier acuras had both front and rear jacking points...the front lift point was the center of the front subframe, as there will be a notch or "base" in the middle that you could use.

the rear lift point would be the rear center mounted tow hook.

however, on the '14+ i dont think they have these lift points any more.


I have a '12 Kia Sportage that doesnt have center mounted points, so I lift the vehicle from the pinch welds or control arms. for my CUV and assuming your SUV, you will have to do it one side then the other. doesnt look like you can lift all 4 sides, safely.

 

Honda stipulates a torque spec of only 80ftlbs. For the last 12 years, I've always torqued my wheels to 90ftlbs. Why? Because I don't want to retorque them again after 25 miles, lol. I've never had an issue and I've never had to retorque the lug nuts.

 

older MDX

 

There are a couple of pinch welds I found at the front under a beam that is under a front motor mount. On the rear there is a pinch weld under the cross member. Nothing else obvious to use. I will try these next time as I used the corner welds before looking.

Couple other notes I swapped the winter stock Mdx wheels for the advance wheels and had a second set of Acura tpms sensors and thus far no tpms light came on after a short drive. On my accord if I swapped wheels and didn't flash the tpms sensors right away the tpms light would come on, maybe on the new mdx it's not necessary to scan in the tpms sensors and the Ecu can detect and learn the codes.

Some pics for reference.



Also while I had the wheels off I pulled the rotor screws off while the mileage is low on the car to save myself from having to drill out the screws after they corrode. I found the screws were very easy to remove unlike any car I've owned. I put some antiseeze on them and put them back on.

 

For Honda/Acura vehicles, the factory torque spec is 80ft/lbs for bolt pattern 5x114.3, and 94ft/lbs for bolt pattern 5x120.

 

ya'll can use control arms to jack up then place jack stand on pinch weld. that way, jack isnt in way of pinch weld, so that you actually use said pinch weld

 

This is correct.

Just picked up a torque wrench and breaker bar from Harbour Freight for the very purpose of switching out the winters on my wife's MDX.

I do have the 4-ton jack stands, but since the driveway is a bit sloped, one side at a time.

Next house needs a flat driveway.......

 

^no garage?

 

Yes...full of stuff and my TL.

Not to mention it's a single car garage, and just getting the 'X through the doorway is challenge enough let alone trying to change wheels in that limited space.

Next house needs a double car(single door) garage as well.

 

^yikes! I'm super careful in the garage, with jack stands and everything...
I wouldnt want to change tires or oil on a slant! lol

 

I will probably end up parking on the road at the end of the driveway and just do it there.

I feel safer that way as well.

 

I ended up purchasing a tq wrench and 2ft breaker bar for my vehicles because Discount Tires would over tq the lugs sometimes (lifetime free rotations/balance). Discount tires once broke a stud off on my TSX and there were times I couldn't budge the lugs on the RDX/MDX without using a breaker bar. Me and the kid always re-tq the lugs after any service that take off the tires.