Work vsxx 18'
#1
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Work vsxx 18'
Hi,
I found some VSXX for $1450 without tires but its 18x8.5. I was hoping to get 19x8.5 but this is a steal.
Anyone else here running 18s?
Is it too small or is it ok?
How much drop did you do?
I was thinking of eibach lowering springs but i might just do coils to make up for the gap.
Let me know your thoughts fellas.
I found some VSXX for $1450 without tires but its 18x8.5. I was hoping to get 19x8.5 but this is a steal.
Anyone else here running 18s?
Is it too small or is it ok?
How much drop did you do?
I was thinking of eibach lowering springs but i might just do coils to make up for the gap.
Let me know your thoughts fellas.
#2
Pro
<p>I'm on 18's with 245/40's on no drop .. the gap really depends on how thick of tires you want to run. It is noticeable, but not as bad as 19's with no drop.</p><p>Looking at dropping on Eibach or H&R's, but will have to wait until next year.</p>
#3
Team Owner
In the end, you have to maintain as close as possible the outer diameter of the tire as oem. Otherwise your speedometer will be completely out to lunch. By increasing rim size, all you're doing is reducing sidewall size on your tire. The smaller the sidewall, the harsher the ride will become.
#4
Team Owner
Coils will definitely take care of your gap issue, however, what you need to be worried about is the offset of the wheels (how much they poke in or out). Do you know what the offset of the wheels is?
#5
Intermediate
Thread Starter
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TSX 09 (09-14-2015)
#7
VTEC just kicked in, yo!
<p>Offset/width can be changed on the VSXX; they're a 3-piece wheel. So, I wouldn't worry about that aspect. Unless however, you have no intention or even the thought of rebuilding them, then sure let's talk about the immediate width specs. They're not aggressive to the point where you need added negative camber. You won't even need stretched tires. They will fit, but they may look sunk; especially in the rear. However like I said, the VSXX can be rebuilt with different hardware, so you can theoretically get whatever specs (width wise) necessary once you figure out how you want the wheels to fit.</p><p>Naturally, a 3piece wheel will be a lipped wheel. And because of that, the VSXX will <em>appear </em>to be smaller than it really is; just the nature of a big lipped wheel. In my case, I have 18x10 XD9s on the rear, and visually they <em>appear </em>smaller than my fronts, which are 18x9. If this bothers you, keep looking for a set of 19s.</p><p>I think you'd be happier with 19s, but if you don't mind the 18s you could always get a meatier tire to fill in the wheel well. 19s is the better way to go in terms of "stance" or "fitment", but personally I prefer 18s because they're... 1. cheaper, 2. lighter, 3. can fit a bigger tire, 4. tires are cheaper.</p>
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#9
VTEC just kicked in, yo!
<p>Depends on your visual preference I guess. Do you like a meatier, more functional look? Or do you like a thinner looking tire? I personally like the thicker look, and wish I had gone with a meatier tire.</p><p>My recommendation is <em>at least</em> 225/40r18. If you want meatier, go with 235/40r18 or maybe even 225/45r18 (this one will be the thickest of the 3). For reference, I'm running 225/40/r18 on a 9" wheel up front. Check out my thread for some pics to get a better feel of the look. Personally I'd go with 235/40r18 but to reiterate, everyone has their own preference so you'll need to do a little bit of research on your end to figure out what's best for you.</p>
#12
Intermediate
Thread Starter
so one of the shops here locally is telling me to go with 225/45 to keep OEM specs and for speedo accuracy. he said if i go 225/40 the speedo will be incorrect, he said it could show 40mph when really im only goin 30mph.
Now I knew it could be a little off but could it really be that much different? I thought it was more like speedo will show 40 when im really only going 38
Now I knew it could be a little off but could it really be that much different? I thought it was more like speedo will show 40 when im really only going 38
#13
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so one of the shops here locally is telling me to go with 225/45 to keep OEM specs and for speedo accuracy. he said if i go 225/40 the speedo will be incorrect, he said it could show 40mph when really im only goin 30mph.
Now I knew it could be a little off but could it really be that much different? I thought it was more like speedo will show 40 when im really only going 38
Now I knew it could be a little off but could it really be that much different? I thought it was more like speedo will show 40 when im really only going 38
225/45 : 40 mph :: 225/40 : 38.64 mph
#15
BUY THEM!!!
You can always rebuild them with a step lip conversion to go 19in and step lips look fucking great on the VSXX!!
Edit:
VSXX were made for step lips!!
You can always rebuild them with a step lip conversion to go 19in and step lips look fucking great on the VSXX!!
Edit:
VSXX were made for step lips!!
Last edited by usdmJON; 09-17-2015 at 05:35 PM.
#16
Intermediate
Thread Starter
i actually bought the rims already.... just trying to figure out the tires..
the specs they were comparing is actually from OEM to the tires im trying to get. it looks like about 5 mph differnce which is fine as long as its not 10mph over or more
the specs they were comparing is actually from OEM to the tires im trying to get. it looks like about 5 mph differnce which is fine as long as its not 10mph over or more
#17
Yaaaay for quality purchases!
#19
Intermediate
Thread Starter
btw - the rims ended up being +45 offset. It looks like it may stick out 15mms based on the rimsandtires.com calculator. I may go with 235/40 tires instead.
Question is, will I rub with this set up? Should I roll the fenders (trying not to do it but if i have to i will).
Or maybe go with 225/40 so no rub?
ill be dropping on Megan coilovers and would like to do a 2 inch drop initially.
#21
VTEC just kicked in, yo!
<p>Sorry OP didn't see the question from a few days ago. No you won't need a roll. If you go lower, natural camber will tuck you under the wheel well with these specs. And as I suspected, you'd be a bit sunk in the rear.</p><p>Looks great so far!</p>
#25
VTEC just kicked in, yo!
I've heard bad things about Akata and Ichiba, but it's really hard to say how things went wrong. In most cases, it's install error (over/under torquing the spacers). If you use a torque wrench and torque them down to 80-85 ft lbs, I doubt you'd see a problem regardless of brand. So, I don't want to trash those brands (although I might have by accident already), but most issues (whether it be install error) are around those brands. Granted this might be the case because more people buy those spacers compared to other brands... I don't know the percentage of them failing, but in absolute figures it's not insignificant if you do a quick Google search.
If you're worried despite knowing you'd be torquing them down properly, I recommend H&R because they have a reputation that hasn't been tainted even by user installation error as far as I know. That and, they're made in Germany, which may give you additional piece of mind. But most people do trust H&R for their quality line of products. I was gonna go with H&Rs until I decided extended studs was too much work for me because I didn't want to deal with open-ended lug nuts in case I decide not to use the spacers anymore but keep the extended studs on. To each their own, I just didn't wanna do more work than I wanted to, but the extended studs route is also a plus in the safety department when talking spacers.
I ended up with GarageLine spacers, haven't had any issues. Torqued them down to spec (I believe they recommend 80 ft lb), checked the spacers once every week for the first month or so; tightness of the nuts didn't change so I didn't bother checking anymore since that last time. Wheels haven't fallen off yet!
If you're still worried, I suggest no spacers at all.
If you're worried despite knowing you'd be torquing them down properly, I recommend H&R because they have a reputation that hasn't been tainted even by user installation error as far as I know. That and, they're made in Germany, which may give you additional piece of mind. But most people do trust H&R for their quality line of products. I was gonna go with H&Rs until I decided extended studs was too much work for me because I didn't want to deal with open-ended lug nuts in case I decide not to use the spacers anymore but keep the extended studs on. To each their own, I just didn't wanna do more work than I wanted to, but the extended studs route is also a plus in the safety department when talking spacers.
I ended up with GarageLine spacers, haven't had any issues. Torqued them down to spec (I believe they recommend 80 ft lb), checked the spacers once every week for the first month or so; tightness of the nuts didn't change so I didn't bother checking anymore since that last time. Wheels haven't fallen off yet!
If you're still worried, I suggest no spacers at all.
#28
Intermediate
Thread Starter
im not too good with these negative camber but im not really a big fan of it either.
i cant tell how many degress this is.
is mine ok? or is it too much? i dont want to have too much negative camber that it eats tire too much on the side....
should i get it corrected?
i cant tell how many degress this is.
is mine ok? or is it too much? i dont want to have too much negative camber that it eats tire too much on the side....
should i get it corrected?
#29
VTEC just kicked in, yo!
The right picture is a bit misleading as it doesn't look level; the floor is slanted so I won't comment on the camber spec here.
The left picture is better. Looks to be about -3 degrees or maybe a bit more negative. Personally (not scientifically speaking), -3 degrees-ish isn't terrible; I don't think it'll affect your tire wear much. However, if you haven't gotten an alignment yet, you definitely should. The measurement of concern is the toe. Incorrectly set toe angles will eat up tires a lot quicker than negative camber will (to an extent of course... I'm sure -7 degrees of camber will produce "camber wear").
An alignment won't be able to straighten out your camber unless you have aftermarket rear camber arms. It is not adjustable from factory.
The left picture is better. Looks to be about -3 degrees or maybe a bit more negative. Personally (not scientifically speaking), -3 degrees-ish isn't terrible; I don't think it'll affect your tire wear much. However, if you haven't gotten an alignment yet, you definitely should. The measurement of concern is the toe. Incorrectly set toe angles will eat up tires a lot quicker than negative camber will (to an extent of course... I'm sure -7 degrees of camber will produce "camber wear").
An alignment won't be able to straighten out your camber unless you have aftermarket rear camber arms. It is not adjustable from factory.
#30
Intermediate
Thread Starter
hi,
ok, so if i want it to be 0 camber then i have to buy a camber kit?
also, i already did my alignment after i had installed the coils but before i had installed the spacers. not sure if the order matters. but im guessing the alignment has fixed the toe and i shouldnt worry too much about the tire wear???
ok, so if i want it to be 0 camber then i have to buy a camber kit?
also, i already did my alignment after i had installed the coils but before i had installed the spacers. not sure if the order matters. but im guessing the alignment has fixed the toe and i shouldnt worry too much about the tire wear???
#31
VTEC just kicked in, yo!
I don't think you necessarily want zero camber; as long as it's within the manufacturers spec, you should be fine. Something like -1 degrees should be fine. With no negative camber, cornering ability will be negatively affected. Yes, you will need an aftermarket camber kit.
Spacers will not affect your alignment. However, if you gotten an alignment immediately after installing the coilovers, then your toe may have changed from the springs settling over time. I don't recall if you mentioned or not, but I hope you gave it some time before doing the alignment. If this isn't an issue, then yeah your toe should be fine, assuming the alignment shop did the alignment properly.
Spacers will not affect your alignment. However, if you gotten an alignment immediately after installing the coilovers, then your toe may have changed from the springs settling over time. I don't recall if you mentioned or not, but I hope you gave it some time before doing the alignment. If this isn't an issue, then yeah your toe should be fine, assuming the alignment shop did the alignment properly.
#32
Intermediate
Thread Starter
yes, sorry.. i meant at least manufacturers spec.... but if you think i would have even tire wear the way its currently set up then im good with it.
i actually did the alignment 2 weeks after I installed the coils, i hope thats enough time for the suspension to settle
i actually did the alignment 2 weeks after I installed the coils, i hope thats enough time for the suspension to settle
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xtcnrice (10-26-2015)
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