MrOtocinclus

Another update: ETA is now Saturday. They have been unable to determine the problem. They did say that they have been in contact with Acura Techline, which suggests that they would have tried the other solutions that have been posted in this thread.

They gave me an '09 TL to replace the Ford and although it's nice, I'd rather have my TSX.

09TSXMN

Success! After the 2nd visit, the crackle is gone. The dealership subcontracted the car to a body shop that:

1) Re spot welded and added spot welds on the verticle edge against the seat and where the panel meets the towers.

2) Tighted all mechanical fasteners

3) Shot in expandable black foam along any laminated seam and inside the panels

4) Put in a wood block inside the cross beam either for support or to keep foam from coming out

5) Brought in salt/sand/grime into my rear seat door sill and carpet :-(

Kudoo's to my service rep, Christian, at Bloomington Acura for researching and following up.

I have put together a one page powerpoint pic showing the changes but can't seem to add it to the post. Any help with this?

bartek7pl

It means that they don't know what is the cause of that noise. I will wait few months before I give my car to fix that noise maybe at that time they will know the reason of that noise.

[R]isque'

There's reports that the spot welds can break.
Strengthening them can only be good, right?

MrOtocinclus

Got the car back on Saturday and was told that it was something with the "rear shock tower" on the passenger side. They're mailing me my paperwork so I don't have any details at this point, but the sound is gone so I'm happy about that.

I'll probably give Acura and call and let them know what happened, and how I wasn't happy to be without my car for 5 days, regardless of how well the dealership treated me.

arktctr

My 09 with 1,600 miles on it is now back at the dealer for round two of this problem. They said they will need it for a couple of days so I am driving around in an 08 TL....makes me happy I own the TSX despite its issues as the TL is one heavy and clumsy car by comparison...

espdollar

i got the same noises as well, called the dealer and he said theyll check it out when i go in for my appointment :/

Arcticcl9

I have the same cracking..sounds like it's from the rear shelf.. I can hear it when I travel over undulating roads, and gets worse in higher speeds. I won't take my car into the dealer until there is a definte fix , or else they might make it worse

09TSXMN

Here is a pic/description of what was done. 1 week later, cold weather, no noises yet. Hope this picture comes over as it is the first time I have done this.

sf09TSX

Hey Everyone,
Glad I found this thread from a google search. I also have the problem on my 09 TSX. I noticed it shortly after driving it home from the dealer and anytime there was body flex from bumpy roads. I took my car out for some spirited driving this weekend and now it is even louder. My car only has 1000 miles on it.

It is quite disappointing to have this problem. I have owned Hondas previously and none of them ever made noises like this even after 12 years.

I will call Acura since they clearly need to be made aware that they don't have an isolated problem on their hands.

mcabutti

As I posted earlier, Acura/Honda techline has a couple of fixes that they are recommending for this issue. The one that worked for me took approximately 10 minutes to complete:

Loosen the one bolt on each side of the rear bulkhead. You can see these bolts if you open the trunk, look straight ahead at the shock towers on each side, and look for the bolt that is partially hidden by the black wires and black wire casing toward the top. Take a screwdriver and insert it from the middle toward the outside of car above where you removed the bolt. You will see a spot weld in this location. Replace the bolt and tighten it down with the screwdriver in place. This makes a space where there is currently rubbing/squeeking near the spot weld. Loosen the bolt, remove the screwdriver and then tighten the bolt again.
This new space that you made should make the noise go away. Good luck!

mcabutti

I just wanted to let everyone know that you can see one of the bolts I am talking about on 09TSXMN latest pic on his recent post. Look on right side and see the bolt head between the two black wire covers near the top. This is the bolt you need to loosen and make more room near the spot weld directly above the bolt hole. There is another bolt on the left side as well.

AnotherDoubtful

Just a follow-up.
I got my 09TSX back from the dealer after it was there for six days for noise complaints.
They told me they thought they had it fixed. I heard all the noises while driving home a few miles down the road. I just don't have the time to take it back right away.
I've called Acura Customer Service and they opened a case for it. If it were only the cracking noise, I probably wouldn't be very upset, although it would still bother me.
However, there is a lot of noise coming from the front end of the car anytime you go over rough pavement at low speeds. The service manager and the mechanics at my dealership said they hear this sound on a lot of the new TSXs, and there is no fix. They don't know what is causing it either.
So, I have a creaking back end and a rattling front end on a brand new Acura with 6200 miles on it. Acura says they have not received reports of any of these issues (why don't I believe that?), and the mechanics apparently know about the problems, but don't know how to fix them.
The car has been in several times for noise related problems. Acura is supposed to call back Monday to tell me what my options are. Somehow I think there will be one option: take it back for service again.

arktctr

Mine is still sitting at the dealer after 6 days and counting for this problem. Very dissapointed with my first Acura experience thusfar...

soon4tsx

The above worked on mine. If you want to try it, just make sure you wedge the screwdriver under the THICKER piece of sheet metal.

I just fell back in love with the car!

mcabutti

Glad to hear that it worked. Mine has been quiet for about 10 days now. . . It's funny how we "fall in love with our cars" after a problem has been rectified.

sf09TSX

I tried the fix that was mentioned, but did not have any luck. In fact, I think it might sound even louder now. I am not entirely sure that I performed the possible fix correctly. Could someone point out exactly where the screwdriver should be inserted in the photo? Thanks.

I called Acura customer service to notify them of the problem and they say that they haven't heard of this before.

mcabutti

sfo9TSX: Send me a FAX # and I will be happy to send you the pics and text I received from Honda/Acura techline.

bartek7pl

mcabutti: Can you send me the pics and text as well?

mcabutti

I will send it to you on Thursday morning.

Thanks.

bartek7pl

Thanks for directions it didn't help The noise is nothing big but now when I know that there is one it just bothers me.

arktctr

9 days later and my car is finally back! Acura Mission Viejo handled things perfectly! So nice to be back in my comfy seats again!

09TSXMN

Wow, 9 days, did they tell you what they ended up doing?

arktctr

combination of welds and loose bolts...

espdollar

i just took mine in today to have them take a look. The guy said he has never heard anything like this in a 09 tsx. He went to my back seat, pulled the seats done and pulled hard along the plastic behind the seats. he first thought it was a loose seem / glue. he stuffed some rags into it and it still made the noise. Him and the service manager had no clue what to do. I work retail with computer repairs and i think its pretty lame that dealers don't have a Knowledge base for other dealers to report fixes and issues with vehicles. each dealer is pretty much like an island with no way to communicate info. I made another appointment to drop it off so that the actual techs can fix it. but truthfully i don't want to have my car to be the experiment for my dealer. i plan to call some other dealers to see if they know how to Fix with this. Anyone been to an Acura dealer in south florida thats good with these things or repairs in General? i was at Miami Acura and their customer service was Terrible and i wouldn't trust them with my car either. I saved money to buy this car since i was 17 and this definitely blows :/. Do i let someone play lego with my car or should i wait a couple months till they find a fix or find a dealer with the fix?

09TSXMN

Have your service rep call Bloomington Acura, 952-881-6200, ask for Kristin, she will advise on all that was done.

09TSX

09TSXMN......My car is still solid and tight with no noise at all. The first attempt they made at repairing the problem actually made it a bit worse so I was kicking myself thinking "what have I done"!! Took a risk, brought it back as my service advisor assured they'd get to the bottom of it and they sure did!! This has been several months ago and she is so quiet, and other than this, I have had no single issue with my car, not even the pinging except for once I may have heard it when my dad was generous on the accelerator

rmastbro

I happen find this link on a Honda site that might be useful to fixing the dreaded "rear parcel shelf crackling". I am also experiencing this issue and will try some of the tips on this posting...

Another option the article mentions is ...

Some folks prefer welding, but this can
be hazardous, messy, and a whole lot of extra work.
You’re better off using a wood block and hammer or
a 1/4-inch round-nose punch to tap the joint closer
together. If you’re using the punch, make your dents
1 to 2 mm deep—but don’t punch through the sheet
metal.


(on page 5)

http://www.in.acura.com/Rjanisis/pubs/SN/a081000.PDF


Body Creaks: Some Handy Tips to Find and Eliminate Them
Anyone who’s ever done it will tell you that finding
and eliminating body creaks is no piece of cake.
It takes skill, will, and a lot of patience to do the job
right. Here are some handy tips to help make that
happen:

Finding the Source
Body creaks are usually caused by movement
between two or more sheet metal pieces that are
next to each other. When you roll over bumps or turn
into an sloping driveway, normal body flex causes
the sheet metal to move, resulting in a creak. A large
sheet metal area can also work like an echo
chamber, transmitting noise from one part of the
body to another. Be careful, though, not to confuse
body creaks with suspension bushing noises. Those
noises can sound a lot like body creaks, especially
when they’re amplified by a large sheet metal area.
To duplicate creaking, drive over some bumps and
dips, and turn into some driveways. Bring someone
along for the ride, and have your passenger do these
things while you stick to the driving:
• Switch seat positions from front to back and from
side to side. In each seat position, compare
where you think the creak is coming from to
where your passenger thinks it’s coming from.
• Push and pull on various parts of the interior, the
body, or both. If the creak changes in pitch or
intensity—or it even goes away—you know
you’re in the right place.
• Use a mechanic’s stethoscope or a length of fuel
line hose to help pinpoint the source of the creak.
To find that source, though, you may need to
remove some of the interior components.
If the creak is coming from the cowl or the dashboard
area, check these items first before you start working
on the body:
• Hood hinges and hood latches: These items
can transmit sounds to the dashboard if they’re
loose. Even if the hood doesn’t noticeably shake,
make sure you double-check those hinges and
latches anyway.
• Fuel or brake lines attached to the firewall:
These items can creak when they turn in their
plastic holders. This can also happen in the door
sill area.
When you’ve found a sheet metal area you think
could be the source, test it by sticking a thin, flat-tip
screwdriver between the various spot-welded pieces.
Be really careful not to break any of the welds.
Then try to reproduce the creak. Again, if the creak
changes in pitch or intensity—or it just goes
away—you know you’re in the right place.


Eliminating the Creak
Once you’ve found where the creak is actually
coming from, you’ve got to move the problem sheet
metal either closer together or farther apart to
eliminate it. Some folks prefer welding, but this can
be hazardous, messy, and a whole lot of extra work.
You’re better off using a wood block and hammer or
a 1/4-inch round-nose punch to tap the joint closer
together. If you’re using the punch, make your dents
1 to 2 mm deep—but don’t punch through the sheet
metal. Another option is to use a thin, flat-tip
screwdriver to spread the sheet metal apart.
Whatever you do, though, make sure you apply
some touch-up paint if you happen to scratch any of
the painted surfaces.
Sometimes the creak is coming from a hard-to-reach
area like the roof rail, the door sill, or the cowl.
Check the applicable Body Repair Manual for details
on shape and construction before you start working
on those areas.
To test those hard-to-reach areas, spray them with a
light, quick-penetrating lubricant such as HondaLube
or WD-40. If the creak goes away, squirt or spray
some isopropyl alcohol on that area to wash off the
lubricant. The creak should come back. To get rid of
that creak for good, squirt the area with some 5W-30
engine oil. Remember, you’re just using that light
lubricant to confirm the problem; it’s not supposed to
be a lasting fix.
If that creak is still there after using lubricant, there
could be a sharp edge or burr that’s scratching a
panel next to it. As a last resort, you may need to cut
through an inner panel to get to that problem area.
Use a 1-inch hole saw to cut through the inner body
panel, then reach through the hole, and bend the
sheet metal with a flat-tip screwdriver or a small hook
on a slide hammer. Apply touch-up paint around the
edge of the hole, and seal it with a rubber plug.
We’ve found that A/C hose firewall plugs (30 mm
upper seals, P/N 75826-SB3-300, H/C 1942416)
work just fine for this.

espdollar

update - dropped off the car this morning, customer service was much better the service manager called me at least 3 times for updates on the repair. The last update was to tell me that they need to keep it longer to figure out where the noises are coming from. He said that the techs are in contact with the acura techline so a fix should be soon.
the only lame thing is i didn't get a loaner :[ they said they were all booked and i think he also mentioned i have to be 21... sucks i was looking forward to driving an auto tsx with paddle shifters while my MT was getting fixed :/

risc

I have the dreaded crackling too. I just noticed earlier today when I had the radio off and was going over some bumps. Will see the dealer on Sunday.

rmastbro

Dont know if this fix is going to work for everyone but this is what I tried and it worked so far. It has been a week and haven't heard and creaking sounds yet.

1) I used a thin, flat-tip screwdriver to spread the sheet metal apart (this is how I found the creaking sounds).

2) I removed the bolt on each side (as seen in picture) and slightly spread the sheet metal (DON'T BREAK THE WELD SPOTS).

3) I then sprayed a heavy duty silicon spray like (Liquid Wretch) around ALL weld joints that I could see.

4) I used a round-nose punch and a hammer and tapped all weld spot joints making dents 1 to 2 mm deep — but don’t punch through the sheet
metal.

5) I haven't done this yet but it is recommended you apply some touch-up paint if you happen to scratch any of the painted surfaces to prevent rust.


Hope this info helps someone ....

The Dark Knight

iTrader: (1)

Took my car into the dealership today (Acura of Valley Stream) and they were able to confirm the noise.

Dropping the car off on tuesday.

I also linked the Service Manager (Norman) to this thread.

The Dark Knight

iTrader: (1)

Update:

Special thanks to Norman and Stephanie at Acura of Valley Stream.

Car is fixed and the noise is gone.

09TSXMN

^^^ Great news, did they advise what they did to fix yours?

The Dark Knight

iTrader: (1)

concern: customer states rattle from rear deck, crackling sound, when radio is off and driving.

cause: removed trunk lining, removed deck lid shelf, road tested and found creaking noise from metal contact in packing shelf.

correction: necessary to unbolt metal shelf, insulate with seam sealer to prevent metal to metal contact, road tested after repair and noise is gone at this time.

autoglymer

I experienced similar creaking sound. Got my wifey to listen to the "source", with the rear seats folded down, while I drive. Mine is pretty bad; the metal creaks with the slightest undulation.

My source is similar to the ones pointed by rmastbro's pics. Here's what I did to eliminate the sound:

1. Do not pry any of the metal sheets apart.
2. Use good old WD40 to spray at areas where the metal sheets meet.

The above should be a 30-60 min fix including a test drive to confirm the resolution. The only downside is that my boot now smells of WD40 instead of new fabric.

240sx acura tech

check out sb 40-049 http://tor.in.honda.com/Rjanisis/RJAAI003_205.htm

240sx acura tech

sorry wrong one. 09-014.

rmastbro

Nothing shows up we I click this link ...

CU2MIKE

dont have this problem either, guess we are the lucky ones?