2012 TSX has intermittent starting problem, usual suspect all check out fine
12-02-2018, 09:17 PM
#1
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2012 TSX has intermittent starting problem, usual suspect all check out fine
The short version:
I have installed a new starter, tested the battery, checked the battery ground and every other ground strap I could find, checked alternator voltage, and done a parasitic leak check. I can't find anything wrong, but still the battery seems to drain when the car is sitting, and then the car decides not to start. It will jump start absolutely fine. For the most part, it will start again when warm or shortly after being driven, but at least once I have driven for 30 minutes, stopped for gas and then it wouldn't start.
The longer version:
I had a problem with starting the car for several days, and the lack of being able to turn over made me think the starter was bad, so I changed it out myself (a much more difficult job than I've done on other cars, since the starter is buried under the engine and inaccessible from under the car). With the new starter, the problem went away, for about 3 weeks. Then all of a sudden I had issues getting the starter to turn at all. All that happens when I turn the key is the dash lights up and I can hear a clicking sound, which I presume is the starter relay. The car is easy to jump, so I eventually invested in a portable jump starter from Walmart, that rides around in the front seat with me. My drive to work is just over 25 minutes most days, which seems to charge the battery sufficiently for the car to start in the evening to get home, although I need to jump it sometimes, especially on colder days.
The battery voltage has been measured as low as 11.5 amps before starting, although that time it did start. I took the battery to Auto Zone, and their tester said it was in good condition and all cells were fine. It is about 3.5 years old. no corrosion is visible, and the terminals and cables are visually in good condition.
I did a parasitic leak test, but couldn't find any significant current draw with the car turned off. Immediately after shutting off, the car draws 700 mA for 35 seconds, then drops to about 350 mA. After 3 minutes 5 seconds, it drops below 10 mA. I disconnected the HFL, since that was a common problem in the older model, but that made no difference. There are no aftermarket electronics installed.
I checked the battery ground for resistance, and a few other chassis grounds, and found basically 0 to 0.1 ohms. I could use some advice on chasing ground faults in this car, if anyone has some. I'm not sure where to look. I did get a suggestion to use my jumper cables to connect the battery ground terminal to the engine block or some other good ground, to see if that works, and I haven't tried that yet.
I'm at my wit's end. To make matters worse, my jump starter from Walmart died and I had to buy another one (different brand, from another store) to ensure I can get around without relying on the kindness of strangers to give me a jump. Now I'm over $200 into an electrical problem. I don't have confidence a mechanic will be able to find the issue, since it is so intermittent.
Help!
I have installed a new starter, tested the battery, checked the battery ground and every other ground strap I could find, checked alternator voltage, and done a parasitic leak check. I can't find anything wrong, but still the battery seems to drain when the car is sitting, and then the car decides not to start. It will jump start absolutely fine. For the most part, it will start again when warm or shortly after being driven, but at least once I have driven for 30 minutes, stopped for gas and then it wouldn't start.
The longer version:
I had a problem with starting the car for several days, and the lack of being able to turn over made me think the starter was bad, so I changed it out myself (a much more difficult job than I've done on other cars, since the starter is buried under the engine and inaccessible from under the car). With the new starter, the problem went away, for about 3 weeks. Then all of a sudden I had issues getting the starter to turn at all. All that happens when I turn the key is the dash lights up and I can hear a clicking sound, which I presume is the starter relay. The car is easy to jump, so I eventually invested in a portable jump starter from Walmart, that rides around in the front seat with me. My drive to work is just over 25 minutes most days, which seems to charge the battery sufficiently for the car to start in the evening to get home, although I need to jump it sometimes, especially on colder days.
The battery voltage has been measured as low as 11.5 amps before starting, although that time it did start. I took the battery to Auto Zone, and their tester said it was in good condition and all cells were fine. It is about 3.5 years old. no corrosion is visible, and the terminals and cables are visually in good condition.
I did a parasitic leak test, but couldn't find any significant current draw with the car turned off. Immediately after shutting off, the car draws 700 mA for 35 seconds, then drops to about 350 mA. After 3 minutes 5 seconds, it drops below 10 mA. I disconnected the HFL, since that was a common problem in the older model, but that made no difference. There are no aftermarket electronics installed.
I checked the battery ground for resistance, and a few other chassis grounds, and found basically 0 to 0.1 ohms. I could use some advice on chasing ground faults in this car, if anyone has some. I'm not sure where to look. I did get a suggestion to use my jumper cables to connect the battery ground terminal to the engine block or some other good ground, to see if that works, and I haven't tried that yet.
I'm at my wit's end. To make matters worse, my jump starter from Walmart died and I had to buy another one (different brand, from another store) to ensure I can get around without relying on the kindness of strangers to give me a jump. Now I'm over $200 into an electrical problem. I don't have confidence a mechanic will be able to find the issue, since it is so intermittent.
Help!
12-03-2018, 07:17 PM
#2
If you have anything resembling a factory battery, I would not be surprised if it isn't dying after 3.5 years. Dealer put a new one in mine when I bought it used, and now 3.5 years later, its sounding weak, even after a long drive. Its not even really cold here yet, but I fear its going to crap out on me.
And yes, I read where it tested OK. Just weak, but passing.
More soon, if it dies during my next week away.
And yes, I read where it tested OK. Just weak, but passing.
More soon, if it dies during my next week away.
12-04-2018, 05:39 AM
#3
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The short version:
I have installed a new starter, tested the battery, checked the battery ground and every other ground strap I could find, checked alternator voltage, and done a parasitic leak check. I can't find anything wrong, but still the battery seems to drain when the car is sitting, and then the car decides not to start. It will jump start absolutely fine. For the most part, it will start again when warm or shortly after being driven, but at least once I have driven for 30 minutes, stopped for gas and then it wouldn't start.
The longer version:
I had a problem with starting the car for several days, and the lack of being able to turn over made me think the starter was bad, so I changed it out myself (a much more difficult job than I've done on other cars, since the starter is buried under the engine and inaccessible from under the car). With the new starter, the problem went away, for about 3 weeks. Then all of a sudden I had issues getting the starter to turn at all. All that happens when I turn the key is the dash lights up and I can hear a clicking sound, which I presume is the starter relay. The car is easy to jump, so I eventually invested in a portable jump starter from Walmart, that rides around in the front seat with me. My drive to work is just over 25 minutes most days, which seems to charge the battery sufficiently for the car to start in the evening to get home, although I need to jump it sometimes, especially on colder days.
The battery voltage has been measured as low as 11.5 amps before starting, although that time it did start. I took the battery to Auto Zone, and their tester said it was in good condition and all cells were fine. It is about 3.5 years old. no corrosion is visible, and the terminals and cables are visually in good condition.
I did a parasitic leak test, but couldn't find any significant current draw with the car turned off. Immediately after shutting off, the car draws 700 mA for 35 seconds, then drops to about 350 mA. After 3 minutes 5 seconds, it drops below 10 mA. I disconnected the HFL, since that was a common problem in the older model, but that made no difference. There are no aftermarket electronics installed.
I checked the battery ground for resistance, and a few other chassis grounds, and found basically 0 to 0.1 ohms. I could use some advice on chasing ground faults in this car, if anyone has some. I'm not sure where to look. I did get a suggestion to use my jumper cables to connect the battery ground terminal to the engine block or some other good ground, to see if that works, and I haven't tried that yet.
I'm at my wit's end. To make matters worse, my jump starter from Walmart died and I had to buy another one (different brand, from another store) to ensure I can get around without relying on the kindness of strangers to give me a jump. Now I'm over $200 into an electrical problem. I don't have confidence a mechanic will be able to find the issue, since it is so intermittent.
Help!
I have installed a new starter, tested the battery, checked the battery ground and every other ground strap I could find, checked alternator voltage, and done a parasitic leak check. I can't find anything wrong, but still the battery seems to drain when the car is sitting, and then the car decides not to start. It will jump start absolutely fine. For the most part, it will start again when warm or shortly after being driven, but at least once I have driven for 30 minutes, stopped for gas and then it wouldn't start.
The longer version:
I had a problem with starting the car for several days, and the lack of being able to turn over made me think the starter was bad, so I changed it out myself (a much more difficult job than I've done on other cars, since the starter is buried under the engine and inaccessible from under the car). With the new starter, the problem went away, for about 3 weeks. Then all of a sudden I had issues getting the starter to turn at all. All that happens when I turn the key is the dash lights up and I can hear a clicking sound, which I presume is the starter relay. The car is easy to jump, so I eventually invested in a portable jump starter from Walmart, that rides around in the front seat with me. My drive to work is just over 25 minutes most days, which seems to charge the battery sufficiently for the car to start in the evening to get home, although I need to jump it sometimes, especially on colder days.
The battery voltage has been measured as low as 11.5 amps before starting, although that time it did start. I took the battery to Auto Zone, and their tester said it was in good condition and all cells were fine. It is about 3.5 years old. no corrosion is visible, and the terminals and cables are visually in good condition.
I did a parasitic leak test, but couldn't find any significant current draw with the car turned off. Immediately after shutting off, the car draws 700 mA for 35 seconds, then drops to about 350 mA. After 3 minutes 5 seconds, it drops below 10 mA. I disconnected the HFL, since that was a common problem in the older model, but that made no difference. There are no aftermarket electronics installed.
I checked the battery ground for resistance, and a few other chassis grounds, and found basically 0 to 0.1 ohms. I could use some advice on chasing ground faults in this car, if anyone has some. I'm not sure where to look. I did get a suggestion to use my jumper cables to connect the battery ground terminal to the engine block or some other good ground, to see if that works, and I haven't tried that yet.
I'm at my wit's end. To make matters worse, my jump starter from Walmart died and I had to buy another one (different brand, from another store) to ensure I can get around without relying on the kindness of strangers to give me a jump. Now I'm over $200 into an electrical problem. I don't have confidence a mechanic will be able to find the issue, since it is so intermittent.
Help!
These batteries don't seem to last as long as they should. I would get yours tested or maybe just replace it.
12-04-2018, 10:20 AM
#4
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If you have anything resembling a factory battery, I would not be surprised if it isn't dying after 3.5 years. Dealer put a new one in mine when I bought it used, and now 3.5 years later, its sounding weak, even after a long drive. Its not even really cold here yet, but I fear its going to crap out on me.
And yes, I read where it tested OK. Just weak, but passing.
More soon, if it dies during my next week away.
And yes, I read where it tested OK. Just weak, but passing.
More soon, if it dies during my next week away.
My guess is that a new battery probably will work fine for a while, but only last 2-3 years again if I don't fix the underlying problem.
12-04-2018, 10:24 AM
#5
Racer
The CCA rating for the battery the TSX calls for is a bit low, imo. That's why it'll be fine for 2-3 years...
Try running a battery with the highest count of CCA you can find. I went with XS power.
Try running a battery with the highest count of CCA you can find. I went with XS power.
12-04-2018, 12:27 PM
#6
Senior Moderator
In the meantime, you can plug your car to a battery tender so it doesn't die overnight.. There's definitely something doing a parasitic draw though..
Voltage = volts, not amps
11.5 volts on a battery is extremely low though.. and at 2-3 years old, just get a new battery, doesn't the AZ battery you bought have a replacement warranty? Just replace it for a new one and see if it resolves the problem.. I have ZERO confidence in those 'battery testers' they have as well.
Voltage = volts, not amps
11.5 volts on a battery is extremely low though.. and at 2-3 years old, just get a new battery, doesn't the AZ battery you bought have a replacement warranty? Just replace it for a new one and see if it resolves the problem.. I have ZERO confidence in those 'battery testers' they have as well.
12-04-2018, 01:53 PM
#7
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D'oh! :headslap:
11.5 volts on a battery is extremely low though.. and at 2-3 years old, just get a new battery, doesn't the AZ battery you bought have a replacement warranty? Just replace it for a new one and see if it resolves the problem.. I have ZERO confidence in those 'battery testers' they have as well.
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12-05-2018, 11:49 AM
#8
And don't expect your standard digital voltmeter to be OK for testing a battery. It needs a load to verify the real voltage.
Somewhere here there is a thread on replacing with a bigger battery, putting in an RDX pan, longer bolts, etc. I need to resurrect it, and start ordering parts for mine.
Somewhere here there is a thread on replacing with a bigger battery, putting in an RDX pan, longer bolts, etc. I need to resurrect it, and start ordering parts for mine.
12-05-2018, 11:55 AM
#9
Senior Moderator
And don't expect your standard digital voltmeter to be OK for testing a battery. It needs a load to verify the real voltage.
Somewhere here there is a thread on replacing with a bigger battery, putting in an RDX pan, longer bolts, etc. I need to resurrect it, and start ordering parts for mine.
Somewhere here there is a thread on replacing with a bigger battery, putting in an RDX pan, longer bolts, etc. I need to resurrect it, and start ordering parts for mine.
Couple options here:
https://www.google.com/search?rlz=1C...iz.2at-cA1N9js
Upgrading to the V6 for example: https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-tsx-...attery-952200/
https://acurazine.com/forums/second-...ut-one-965941/
12-05-2018, 05:03 PM
#10
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I'm leaning towards just buying a bigger battery and hoping that solves everything. It just feels like taking asprin to make a headache feel better, and ignoring the tumor that is causing the headache. Maybe I'll end up getting rid of the car before the symptoms return, although I generally like to own my cars as long as possible and drive them into the ground. I hate having a car payment, and as long as it can reliably get me to/from work with occasional trips to the airport, I plan to hold on to it.
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