dhuynh

Because Houston. lol

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

I really like those wheels, man...I think they'll look great. If you like a split 5 almost 10...the Advan RZ is your wheel. I'm the opposite, I like 10 spokes but evenly spaced.

Flip flop man...my kinda guy

cu2wagon

I've drooled over those Advans. They're maybe just a little too close to 10 spoke for my preference, but right on the ragged edge. Again, I'd rock them if they showed up on my doorstep ()...

Surprisingly, if the numbers are correct, they're only 0.6 lbs lighter than the Enkies, but at least 2x the cost.

But if someone got bored of theirs and sent them to me... Someone...

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

know someone with RZ?
I only RS...

Yeah, no doubt, man...they hold their value very well...especially since RS and RZ OG design is discontinued.

shoot, maybe I am a name brand hoahhhhh

cu2wagon

Huh. Well, would you look at that... RS for RS. MakesSense.jpg

I guess you can rest easy knowing that I won't steal your wheels AND your dog.

But still, if you ever want to donate your RS's to a terrible lost cause; you know where to find me.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

if i were to ever be that giving it wouldn't be to someone "settling" for them!

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

oddly enough, I don't like split 5 spokes...I ONLY like the even 10.

cu2wagon

Fair enough Beggers and choosers and whatnot!

Yeah, I saw that when you got the new set and thought "Damn, he was so close to being a Cool Guy™ and then he reveals himself to be a monster..."

I think the reason I like the more 5-ish looking design is as a bit of a design homage to the OEM wheels. Keeps it fairly stock-ish looking, like it could almost have come from the factory that way. Especially with "H" caps in place.

I don't like my daily drivers to look too done up. Sleeper-stock. Keep the radical stuff for the fun toys.

Teriyakibbs

Big Fan, I just picked up a 12' Wagon Tech package. I am looking at some H emblem swaps now

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

shoot, if that's the case, take a look at the Weds TC105N...they're a 5 spoke split...very nice looking wheel.

cu2wagon

Nice! Well, take a peek back at my first page. I'm pretty sure I have PN/s for all the emblems I've done so far. Or at least some background on what I went through. It's all out there, just need to get creative in finding it.

And Welcome!

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

whale cum

cu2wagon

Agree. If money were no object, I'd go Weds in a heartbeat. Back when I was in school and broke as a joke, I got a set of knockoff Weds TC005's for my 240sx. I think that's why I like the Type-S waffles so much, they remind me of those.

And Weds was one of the first places I looked when I started thinking about Wagon Wheels, even looking for an old set of TC005's. But when it comes right down to it, I keep coming back to the Enkei's... I just can't get over how light they are for how little they cost.

Of course, they're not authentic forged super dori-dori dorifto JDM TUV JWL BBQSauce time attaxk wheels, but for running back and for to the farmers market and dropping my unique snowflake off at "toddler intellectual development group", they fit the bill just right.

Or I look at it this way: I'll budget and save for some Weds or Volks and when I have the cash ready, I'll buy some Enkei's and a set of coilovers instead of just 4 wheels!

That said, I still keep an eye on the usual suspects to see if an affordable set of "Authentic®" 5-spokes show up.

Who knows. Someday I might actually graduate to Medium Pimping and have some Authentic Wheels.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Can't argue that logic, my friend.
Enkei works.

nats007

Awesome progress thread!!! Love the wagon, Sir

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Progress awesome! Thread!

cu2wagon

I did something that I'm still on the fence about. I'm not sure if I like it or if it's too boy-racer rice.

When I first got the car and put on the metal license plates, I initially had some stainless steel socket cap screws with washers. Then I got some fancy cone washers and have been using them for the past year or so:


I usually like to run a plate frame for reasons and have been looking for something for the wagon. I had been looking for a silver carbon fiber (technically Texalium I suppose, but that's probably just a pedantic distinction) frame but was having a tough time finding any without getting a lot run made from China. Eventually, I picked up a carbon fiber frame but the black just didn't fit in with the color and chrome on the back of the car. Finally, some individual "SCF" frames showed up on the worldwide crapmarket known as eBay and I rolled the dice.

Before:


After:


I'm not sure I'm McLovin it though. It's not exactly what I was hoping for but then again, I'm not really sure what I'm hoping for. Some normal-ish how-it-looks shots:




And finally, a detail shot of the twill weaving:


It's not terrible looking on it's own. Pretty cheap though... It's a single layer of woven fiber overlayed on a base of chopped fiberglass (the black frame I had was a full thickness CF woven sheet molded to shape; much better quality but just didn't look right).

I'm going to give it a few days to see if it ever starts registering as "nice addition" instead of "cheap crappy crap". Maybe I just need to put some Mugen stickers on it.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

OMG WTF Texas...why the fuck are your plates so sharped edged?

So, funny story, I just ordered another plate trim thingy from ebay...I broke my original, and got lucky and bruce sold me a type s one (with camera) that I had to dremel the holes out to make fit (or maybe he shipped it that way for me) so I can't run frameless without revealing the misaligned holes and not being able to run 2 of the bolts...so I ordered another used...and then couldn't help but notice they ALL have bad fading where the plate wasn't covering the plastic...so I contacted my friend to see what he thinks about sanding/clearing it like he does with the headlights.

I really want to go frameless...like on the S2000 which has little bottom tabs that hold the plate which makes it impossible unless you want the plate over them to have a frame and no thank you. So, short story long, I don't like being forced to run a plate frame on the TL. As you know I already ordered the gunmetal VMS bolts...

sidebar: dumbfuck ebayer shipped me one for a great price...except he packaged it improperly and didn't provide a buffer so USPS accidentally chipped it during one of their late night office box futbol matches. The fucking asshole says he packaged properly, then makes me take a video to prove it's his...then says he won't refund me unless I pay the $20 out of pocket to ship it back to him to prove it's his with the VIN number stamped on it (oh wait, it's NOT, you FUCK)...anyway, first time in nearly 20 years that I had to do an ebay claim and supposedly they are going to pick up the shipping of part back to him and credit me. I REALLY feel like putting one of Z's diapers in there and smearing it everywhere but he doesn't deserve anything my sweet daughter produces.

Anyway, about YOUR plate...I don't hate it because it rounds the edges of the plate...but I'm not sure I love the silver and I definitely don't like that it cuts Texas off....I'd be curious to see the black CF...it matches your rear tinted glass when you look at the car as a whole (or a hole, I guess?). I actually bought a nice CF one too once...but since the plate sits on this lined glass, the designs clashed and it ended up on Betty's car.

Devil is in the details, man.

TacoBello

What do you think of these? Enkei GTC-01s.

I checked tirerack and the 17x8 are 0.8lbs heavier than the PF-01s. The color of them is nice too- they call it hyper black, but it's like a dark silver or light gunmetal color.




And yes, there are two valve stems on each wheel. Apparently to be able to check the pressure and inflate at the same time. Because race car.




I actually have the 18s on my TL. They came on the car when I bought it

cu2wagon

Okay, so I'm giving you a pass on this one... and taking it as a compliment that I did a good job...


ready....


I'm not going to throw down the :RS143: card here...


really ready?...


That's not my plate.

Yeah... really.

I'm one of those, "obfuscate everything identifiable" types and, well, I couldn't figure out how to do a decent job of getting pictures of the frame (and others of the LEDs that are coming shortly) without having a plate in place. So I made my own. sssshhhh...

Tejas has rounded frames like normal. I'm just lazy with my origami and left the corners.

And so as not to incriminate myself, I won't say anything about my feelings of covering up the "The Lone Star State" tagline and as much of "TEXAS" as possible. I'll just leave it at: I had no options on the frame design, that's all there was so I had to take it or leave it.

Oh, and regarding your eBay conundrum. I will say this, eBay is pretty good at taking care of buyers. I don't condone it, but you could send back an empty box to the seller and as long as you have a tracking number that shows it's delivered, you'll get your money back. As a seller, this sucks and it's pretty well documented of buyers taking advantage of this. The worst that can happen to the buyer then is a negative feedback. Boo Hoo.

But definitely don't do that.

TacoBello

I can't find pics of the wheels on any TSX with them on, in the same color, let alone a wagon. Here's the front of a TSX sedan:

cu2wagon

Not bad. For someone else's car.

Like I discussed with RS previously, if a set showed up on my doorstep, I'd totally rock 'em. But they're not really in the sweet spot for my preferences.

Two reasons:
1) the split 6-spokes with 5 lugs. Something about the spoke to lug inequality really bugs me.
2) the two valve stems. They're not evenly distributed! Offset them 180-degrees, or put them both in between spoke sets, but not one between spokes and one between sets...

I'm sure that's overly fastidious, but it would drive me bonkers every time I walked up to the car.

Hmm... I need something nice to say...

Well, I do honestly like the color. The hyper black is pretty keen. I'd go for that finish for my wagon since the FSM has that odd two-color tone depending on the conditions. Would be cool to have wheels that did the same.

cu2wagon

Yep. In a passing glance, I like how they look.

But then I can't stop looking at the center.

BRB, gotta go flip the light switch off and on 84 times.

thoiboi

I think the frame is a little too light colored for my liking.


I was shocked you were posting your license too but then realized I was pulling an :rs143:


Honestly it looks fine frameless..

thoiboi

We all know your real plate reads
SUX DIX

cu2wagon

I put it on as it was getting dark this evening so I need to see it in full daylight. Looking at it in the distance pictures, it sort of looks like a rhinestone-princess plate.

I mean, I'm fancy and all, but not sure I want to advertise how big of a daddy's girl I am like that.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Well damn...
naw, I won't, but I considered smashing the part even more than it already is (it's useless now anyway) just to REALLY make him feel like a real ahole when he receives it like...and then be like, oh but I packaged it well

I won't though, I'll send it back the way he sent it. I will fart in the box thought and seal it up quickly.

LOL...dude, you posted a picture of a plate. And it was late. I was more focused on giving you the feedback on the frame like you asked.

I would like to see a shot of the black cf on too though, to be able to decide. Doesn't look ugly at all in silver imo. I just like how clean it looks to not have a frame if you can avoid it...one less thing to make that ghetto vibration noises out the back when I'm crankin soulja boy with the 2 12's too!

cu2wagon

Alright, here you go.

One more of the pretty pretty princess plate frame in brighter daylight conditions:


And here's how the black CF one looks in the same:



Actually, when I stepped back and looked at the black one, it didn't look terrible. I'll probably run the silver one for a week and then try the black. Nothing to loose at this point I suppose.

But I think I'm coming around to either one of them is just too much. The black CF one seems a little bit too WRX or EVO fanboi-ish. The silver CF is a bit more unique, which I like, but I'm not sure it fits right colorwise.

And then there is a third outlier that I was thinking about gambling on from the same source as the silver CF. They also have a "blue carbon fiber" that I was curious how it would work with the slight blue hue of the FSM:

usdmJON

My vote goes to silver. But i bet the black would look good if you ever decided to black the chrome trim out.

cu2wagon

Hmm. Interesting.

I've considered addressing the chrome trim. On all my other vehicles, I've always blacked everything out. But this silver wagon is the lightest color car I've ever owned and the chrome on it doesn't look terrible, IMO. In fact, if I got a couple beers in me, I might actually admit that I sort of like it.

But the temptation is still strong to do something with the chrome. I'm currently thinking about doing a real light tint to it so it still has some mirror to it, but is more on the grey spectrum.

And your comment just jogged my thoughts about perhaps knocking down some of the silver tone of the frame with some tint to make it more grey-ish.

TacoBello

Hey man, fair enough. Just offering options

Personally, I think the two valve stems is kind of dumb. I've never used more than one. But hey, the wheels came on the car, so I wasn't going to say no.

usdmJON

I personally like a small amount of chrome. It can be very tasteful in moderation. The stock chrome trim I think looks great. I vote silver because I myself would opt to keep the chrome trim. There is a lack of chrome in the rear as the TSX doesnt have that chrome bar that goes between the tail lights. But at the same time I dont think there is enough black and as you mentioned the paint is a very light color so I feel the silver blends a bit more.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

I definitely like the black better...but would prefer none. Do you have all 4 holes for the plate? SO you can run all four bolts? Probably not since it's not a USDM car.

cu2wagon

Not really. There are cutouts and captive clip-nuts for the upper holes in the plate. For the lower two, there are little raised platforms with center divots that align with the plate holes. If one was so inclined, they could use self-tappers for the lower location. I'm pretty sure there is nothing behind them to thread into except for the thickness of the thermo-poly panel.

It can be done, but the lower two won't really be doing much securing and I'd be weary if how many install/remove cycles the plastic panel would take before the self-cut threads give up.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Yeah, not like the TL...don't do it.
I just like the idea of using all the bolts...since it'll look clean and not allow bass vibration for me.

cu2wagon

When I bought the interior LEDs from robpp, I didn't exactly realize that the courtesy lights for the doors were not a part of the set. No biggie and I wasn't in a big rush to pick them up (as evidenced by the shear length of time taken to actually *install* the lights, but I digress) so I waited a while.

Right after the winter holidays, as my credit card sat smoldering in my wallet, I saw that exLEDs was running a sale. So that was my queue to break out ol' Max (what I call my CC because, well, I'm sure you can figure it out) and get the door lights on the way.

Since Rob was so good to point out my oblivious error last time, I made sure to order the 5000K lights. And after an extraordinarily long wait, they finally showed up along with a bunch of diffuser clips for the map and dome lights.


The door lights are replaced pretty much like all the others... Pop the cover from the bottom (underneath the door) with a screwdriver and remove and replace the bulb.


Easy.

And with that my LED replacement is complete.

cu2wagon

This past weekend I was finally able to get my first Acura back up and running. We bought this back in 2008 and used it seasonally but I got lazy and hadn't started it up for about 18 months. That was a bit too much so I needed to tear into the heart of the beast and give the carburetor a good cleaning.

Of course, pulling the bowl off means replacing an o-ring that I didn't have on hand so I needed to overnight it and a couple gaskets from Japan. There must have been a storm or something, because it took a week to get here and that meant I missed Race Rawrs.

But she purrs like a kitten now. I love my Acura RLX-EU2000i!

cu2wagon

Bro-dog in Japan hooked me up when he overnight-ed me the gaskets for the EU2000-iLX. I got some Authenic™ Mugen Power Bolt Ons! I think these are good for like 25 hondaHP or something. I'm not sure; I still need to take it to the dyno.

So, a few weeks back, I was going back and forth on the license plate frame... Silver Carbon Fiber, Black Carbon Fiber, No Frame, and so on. I ran the silver for a week, then the black for a week, and neither really took hold although I started to like the black a little bit more than the silver.

When I got these license plate bolts in, I put them on. It was a pretty tough install because I needed a 5mm hex key to get the old ones off but then a 3mm hex key to put the Mugen's on. Who can keep that straight!?!

In the end, after a few scraped knuckles and a lot of cursing (only one trip to the ER but that was because I had to pretend to fall down and get a concussion when my neighbor asked me to help him carry his new refrigerator), I got the bolts installed.




(PN/ 75700-XG8-K0S0)


MUGEN POWER!!!

(so rice)

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

It was worth the effort, they look awesome.

cu2wagon

Globalization is fun! Since the TSX/Accord Euro briefly existed concurrently in China as a Spirior, there is another open market for parts. The Honda Access parts for the Spirior list an aluminum sport pedal cover set similar to the sport pedals offered on the TSX SE, but without the excessive cost to play. What's a guy to do when the boring OEM wagon stop-n-go buttons look like this:


Well, after finding the right part number (08U74-TP5-900) and getting in touch with gēgē on the mainland, a package shows up with goodies:


Of course, coming from China, I'm always 50/50 on whether or not stuff will be the real deal or bootleg garbage. I'm fairly certain these are the real deal. I mean, you can't just fake hologram certs, right?


Having seen my fair share of bootleg China goods in my day, these have all the right signs of being on the level. The printed packaging and paperwork is high quality and straight, the parts themselves match all the literature I've seen for the TSX/Accord Euro sport pedals, and perhaps the finest detail is the mismatched black rivets for the gas/break and silver rivets for the dead pedal. In my experience, that's just a bit too detail-oriented to be knockoffs.

OEM accessory gas/brake/dead pedals! Right number of rivet holes, in the correct locations; rubber nubs are the same; correct number and layout of rubber nubs; correct appearance of rivets on all three pedals. We might have a winner:


I actually didn't plan to install these right away this weekend. I was just going to check the fitment, specifically the brake pedal to see where it would need to be drilled. The OEM rubber pad pulls right off and as a pleasant surprise, the OEM metal-pedal was pre-drilled:


And the holes lined up with the accessory cover; this was looking like it was actually meant to be!


Metal brake cover installed, and looking over to the dead pedal. The accessory part seems to be the right size unlike the other popular option of making the Gen 1 fit with some creative trimming:


I used my baby-fingers to reach under the OEM dead pedal and pulled with my hulk-strength to pop it off:


Backsides of OEM and accessory. The clips and bits line up. Still looks legit:


Here's where things got tricky, I had to line up the sport dead pedal and *push it into place*. It popped right in:


Gas pedal fits perfectly and now the fun begins. Since "professional installation was required" there were no instructions provided with the parts. So it was improv time! Slapped a piece of painters tape on the gas pedal to transfer over the rivet locations to drill out. Place the pedal cover in place and mark the rivet holes with a marker:


Remove the cover and drill some pilot holes with a 1/16" bit, taking care not to go too deep on the lower two holes since the floor and pivot hinge are located right there:


Since I don't have metric drill bits, I grabbed the nearest size imperial bit (5/32" or about 4mm) and ran it through each location:


So quality job. A+, #1, professional holes. Remove the tape and use the sticky side to pick up any plastic curly bits that fell to the floor:


Put the rivets in place in all 10 holes. This is the moment of truth to see if we've managed to transfer the locations and drill them out without cocking something up. It works:


Then just go through and pop all the rivets. I kept them all in place to align everything and to keep the covers from moving. Because inevitably, if you take them all out and start popping one-by-one, the cover will have shifted ever so slightly by the last one and it won't fit. Or so I've found in the past:


And now that we're done, let's reinstall the WeatherTech and cover up half of the sporty new dead pedal:


Yay!

I think this was probably good for another +5 hondaHP. Who needs a supercharger?