Upgrade to V6 battery
 

Inspired by the thread Rahul1023 made, I wanted to upgrade my stock battery to the larger 24f battery. The car is going to be left outside a lot in potentially below zero (F) weather and I want to be confident it will start and have the satisfaction of knowing it has a bigger battery. In his tutorial, it required cutting the battery box and using aftermarket components. While that is fine, I wanted to entertain the thought of using the OEM parts, especially because the parts are so readily available.

Based on this diagram, here is what I can see will be needed right off the bat:

- Battery (non oem)
- #2 (Top Plate)
- #3 and #4 - (J Hooks)
- #5 Battery Box
- #6 Battery top cover (May be optional but I want it)
- #18 (Two nuts, Not necessary but i'll replace them anyway)

Total cost not including battery = ~$33

Link: BATTERY (V6) for 2012 Acura TSX SEDAN

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/acurazi...88b7751265.gif



For reference, here is my 2012's current battery setup: BATTERY for 2012 Acura TSX SEDAN

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/acurazi...330586873d.gif


Can anyone see any conflicts here, or have any thoughts about this? I searched and didnt find an exact write up if this works, or how to do this.

24f battery is 10.3 (L) x 6.8 (W)

51r is 9.4 (L) x 5.1 (W)

Measure how much space you have and see if it'll fit.

Edit: didn't read the first paragraph. Looks like you should go ahead and attempt the swap, be the guinea pig.

When my tsx battery died (after 4 years) I just went to the local auto parts store and got the largest CCA battery they had.

There is enough space for the bigger battery since that is what the V6s have. I'm just not sure if the v6 battery box is plug and play with a 4 cylinder platform.

Calling resident engineer @ssjoeboe9

Doesn't look like it man, there are set features on the bottom of the battery tray that look to be different between the I4 and V6

I found a nice video that explains a bit more in depth of how the hardware keeps the battery stationary. This is my first car with J clamps, so the idea is new to me. Moving forward, I was under the impression that the battery box is what the J clamps connect to, and the plastic battery box snaps in (or connects to) somehow the metal chassis. This is wrong as I learned in the video.

Here is the video:
As we can see, the battery tray doesn't seem to be held down by anything and is dependent on the weight of the battery to keep it mostly in place (for the most part). Once the battery is removed, it is loose and easily pulls out.

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/acurazi...1f8908e365.png

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/acurazi...41ec768633.png

Now the million dollar question - Will the V6 battery box fit in the 4 cylinder setup? I looked at some photos of the V6 engine bay (had a hard time finding a stock one, most has intakes), and the orientation and nearby components are diffrent. At first glance, I am not confident it will fit. Here are a few photos:


https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/acurazi...3bba0e3be9.jpg


https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/acurazi...82627615a3.jpg

Assuming the box will not fit, I am assuming I would need the following:

- Modify/cut current air box
- #2 (Top Plate)
- #3 and #4 - (J Hooks)
- #18 (Two nuts, Not necessary but i'll replace them anyway)[/SPOILER]

What is your take on this?

From Rahul's post. I cant tell if he used the stock chassis J hook openings or not.

Well, from your parts list, it's only $33.

I don't know about you, but to me, that's right in the sweet spot of "just buy it all and see". And really, the tray (V6 part #5) is the one that would really tell you if it'll fit.

The one thing I'd question is, like you mentioned, where the J-hooks connect. I'd bet that one side will work, but the other side would be off. But, since the chassis of the cars are the same, I'd expect that they might have a sub-assembly that is different. The metal shelf below the plastic box, that has the little ears that the hooks grab onto.

Is there another parts fiche for the engine compartment sheet metal that shows different part numbers for the actual battery shelf?

Yeah, here you go. #21 for the V6:
21 60630-TP1-A00ZZ BASE, BATTERY SETTING $104.70 $75.38

And for the I4 (also #21):
21 60630-TL1-G00ZZ BASE, BATTERY SETTING $79.93 $59.95

Nearest I can tell, they use the same Fiche Image, but have different PNs. :shrug:
http://dz310nzuyimx0.cloudfront.net/...fc727d05eb.gif

Ref: I4 - FRONT BULKHEAD - DASHBOARD for 2012 Acura TSX SEDAN

Ref: V6 - FRONT BULKHEAD - DASHBOARD for 2012 Acura TSX SEDAN

I'd wager you need to replace that base to get the battery mount points for the V6.

Yes, I already confirmed all of this, V6 won't fit. The set features are different. The chassis base is different. If you buy the V6 your battery box WILL wobble and won't secure properly.

In the video screen shots you can see the 2holes on the chassis that the box sits in, (you can even see the sink marks on the plastic box in the screen shot above that video that show the set feature). The V6 has a different set pattern.

Even if the v6 isn't the same, do it anyway! Make it fit! It's so possible to do this that it's rediculous. It's been done before to this very cu2 car.

X2 on the just do it part. Buy the v6 parts you mention, return the ones you won't use/wont fit.
The most important part is using J hooks and top plate .., the rest is cosmetic. If you are OCD, then a little trimming on the V6 bottom tray might be required. But it's a straight forward mod.

When in doubt just zip tie it in :co:

I ended up going with the optima red top 35 battery. Why? Well, it's an optima. It weighs less the 24f with better cranking amps and it was only $50 more.
I ended up using the oem tsx 4cyl tie down rods and top plate. I also used the bottom riser piece that optima supplied.
it now sits at the same height of the oem battery and without the spacer it would site about an inch lower.
Starts like a freaking champ!
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/acurazi...be72dd502f.jpg
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/acurazi...5a2691aea2.jpg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/acurazi...1e874307b8.jpg

Looks great man! I really could use thise CCAs right now with the below zero temps the car is in now. My car starts but it doesn't like it one bit.

Is that still the 24f size?

It's about the same size I think.
24f dimensions are L 10.3 in and W 6.8 in
redtop 35 are L 9.38 in and W 6.75 in

btw, the red top weighs 31.7 lbs and a typical 24f weighs over 45 lbs. CCA/CC numbers are close or better, however, the optima red top is a stellar starter battery as that's it's main design intention.
Our stock size 51r batteries weigh about 28 lbs.
Just something to think about.

Clean install.

Looks great, but I've heard conflicting reports about Optima's quality as of late. Speculation is that quality has gone down since production has shifted to Mexico or something? Definitely glad you like it though. The red matching your car is a nice addition too!

Did you used all the original I4 hardware to fit the 35?

Well with 3 years free replacement warranty and my car now cranking like it's on speed makes me feel good. I guess time will tell.
Yes I used all oem parts. I didn't buy or add anything extra other then the battery and it's supplied tray.

Since 2011, when I left autozone. We had optima's come back often. (within 90 days sometimes). Even the valuecrap (cheap batteries lasted longer lol ) But some guys had optima's for 5+ yrs problem free while others had lemons. The yellow tops where the most return/warranty and also the cheapest group in price.

In terms of warranty you were better off buying the Gold battery ( 5 year warranty, 3 yrs free replacement, 2 years of pro-rated life of battery) Optima had 1 year.

So it would break down to the purpose of the battery.

3 yrs is good!

3 years is reassuring enough. Thanks for the great shared icu2tsx and Username 0!

guess what the red top replaced... the gold top from autozone! Lol
the 51r batteries just do not cut it as far as cranking amps go. They are to small.
im happy with my red top. Maybe the quality went back up because I've been reading current reviews on all sorts of sites selling this battery and seems good. A lot of packaging complains though.

I will definitely consider a red top now :). This past week (especially yesterday) the car was struggling a bit to startup in this -10degree celsius weather. I haven't been stranded yet, but I'm sure the day will come if I stay with this OEM battery.

It's well worth the $150

Where'd you pick it up for that price if you don't mind me asking?

edit: looks like amazon

Summit racing. I suggest NOT to buy from amazon. Their packaging skills are very poor.

https://m.summitracing.com/parts/ult-9020-164

Wait, so you replaced the battery tray with an included riser?

Yeah. I just used the spacer that was supplied with the battery. It actually comes with two different kinds. A thin one and the thick one that pictured.
To add more stability, I added some thin foam pads to the bottom of the tray to keep it from shifting.

Fyi, I ordered an oem accord v6 battery tie down. I'll report back with its figment.

Not trying to crap on your purchase Username 0, really. But some concerning reviews on Amazon, sorted by date in descending order. Granted there are many 5 star reviews, but also quite a few 1 star reviews:
https://www.amazon.com/Optima-Batter...t&pageNumber=1

etc. I really hope yours is good. I suspect many of the 5 star reviews 1-2 weeks after installing, which doesn't say much about their battery's lifespan. Some reviewers even say Optima tries to deny warranty claims now. I know it could just be trolling, but I think I'm going to explore other options before I make a decision.

Even if optima fails me, summit racing will honor it. There's no perfect battery, but I know I picked the right one for me.

I ran an optima red top for a few years in a previous car, then switched to a yellow top because of the stereo equipment. Optima has never let me down. Always had a great experience.

I'm actually running a yellow top right now too.

Good to hear, guys. Just wanted to let people know of what's being said out there. As long as you won't be shocked if/when this ever does happen, then I'm glad I shared that piece of info! I'm still on the fence... but I need to act soon since it felt like my car barely wanted to turn over last night (-15C).

Skip the optima battery & get a North Star Battery. It is simply better in every way. They carry a 4 year replacement warranty. If you want 5 years go with the BatteryPlus X2Power Premium. It is the North Star Battery relabeled for BatteryPlus. https://www.batteriesplus.com/produc...ls/sli24fagmdp. This is what I use in my V6 TSX NSB-AGM-24F Battery | NorthStar Battery






.

For you 4 cylinder guys use the group 35 battery.
NSB-AGM-35 Battery | NorthStar Battery
https://www.batteriesplus.com/productdetails/sli35agmdp

Wow those batteries are sick! The cca are great. But not the price or weight. These are great for those that live around 0 degree temps.

The only other AGM I've used is Odyssey Home Page | ODYSSEY Batteries
For your 4 cylinder guy's, again go with the group 35 battery. 35-PC1400T | ODYSSEY Batteries You may need to swap your J-hooks & hold down with the V6.







.

Spend sometime & research these batteries and design. You get what you pay for & the weight is worth the peace of mind for a street car. If you were racing, then you would need to worry about weight. My last Odyssey battery went 6 years before it failed. Odyssey & North Star are the only two batteries I use.

Item 21 & the plastics is all that is need to to fit a group 24F or 35 battery into the 4 cylinder models. The battery area on the V6 is pretty tight. There should be more room in the 4 cylinder. I see no reason why the V6 parts would not fit.

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/acurazi...20ff03103e.jpg

I'm sure they are great batteries but I'm just not that paranoid to the point that I need to spend $300 on a 60lbs battery.

Here's a shot of my battery compartment for you 4 cylinder models owners to compare with.