UTAH TSX

Anyone want to see the video of the final dyno run with more boost

Jaheri_cbp

I do!!! This thread is revolutionary for cu2's. the more videos the better. You are inspiration to all who dream of being boosted. Hallelujah!!

komplexZ

The a/f ratio plot doesn't look real, never seen anything that flat before. Also 14.78:1 a/f will boom, usually people run < 12:1....?? Were they using any special tools to monitor knock, J&S safeguard, or just whatever hondata sw provides?

Do you have the real a/f plot and a boost plot (full boost at 5k? how much?)? Those would be interesting to see.

musty hustla

I've never tuned anything but I was surprised to see the AFR not change either. You can see the readout in the video too. I only thought you're at 14.7 while cruising or idle. I also thought 14.7 isn't good at high rpm or under load (running lean?).

UTAH TSX

We used the air fuel ratio on the hondata live tuning in the car wont do that again it showed rich low 12 to 1 getting to the 425whp plus goal easily by the time we got to 12psi

Ready

UTAH TSX

This could not have happened at a worse time spent my last dime to get to this point I will be riding the train for a few months saving up a couple grand to bore the block and put some h beam rods and forged pistons in. I was shooting to get in Honda Tuning magazine next month anyone have pistons rods bearings sponsors laying around ???????
grobble beg wine cry bitch moan dammit I didn't even get to drive it

musty hustla

Dang...you have a beautiful build going. We'll be rooting for round 2!

UTAH TSX

Ohhh it was sooo lean the factory wideband showed it was on the rich side the melted pistons tell the truth just way to late

optimusaccord

You ruined the pistons? What happened? Any suggestions before I start strapping mine on? Bigger head gasket? What PSI?

I need information.

Looks like my lady lovely in blue may be the first stock block CU2 on boost on the streets in America....

optimusaccord

Utah, I'm in Seattle the next two weeks, flying through SLC to get there. You care if we have a call while I'm out and about? Questions about the block, are you going to sleeve it??

UTAH TSX

Call anytime, We were using the factory wide band air fuel sensor on the flashpro live tuning table and we were at 11.75 AFR on the data log recording when this happened plenty rich for the boost but it obviously was really lean to melt the pistons down so we wont ever even look at the stock sensor again while tuning we will use the wide band that the dyno has, sucks that I had to learn this way I think they call this test pilot or dummy ggrrrrrrrrrrrr. the cylinder is not to bad a little out of round so a bore is a must, the exhaust valves in the head got hot so I will replace those and cut the valve seats. I will have a good safe base map from cg for you when you are ready. This was all caused by improper sensor reading total accident this should have never happened so don't worry you will be ok

PyroDave

didn't we have someone TSXRonald or something that blew out his motor or transmission trying to go turbo a year or two ago?

this is one of the few threads i can find from him lmao https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-tsx-performance-parts-modifications-299/warning-do-not-install-light-weight-flywheel-834205/

ssjoeboe9

That sucks sooooooooo much!!! All cause of a damn sensor. I feel the pain man! Who knew you couldn't trust it though?? Horrible luck friend.

komplexZ

General tuning tips, especially when boosting a new platform. As you can see you need to keep a close accurate eye on a/f and keep close ear on knocking/detonation. It's also good to monitor your EGTs, so install one of those if you can. Make sure your pump and injectors can support the fuel, make sure you're running cool enough spark plugs with right gap. Check them often when tuning, adjust gap or plug temperature as needed to support. Don't get boost crazy right away, especially on an unknown platform. I'd be nervous going over 300whp on our stock engine/transmission IMO, especially for reliable power. That's almost double the power the engine/tranny was 'designed' for.

Yasser22

Heart breaking. I hope you get the block built soon.

waaasobe

oh man that sucks, i hope it all works out for you in the end.

UTAH TSX

Well my wife is going to buy the pistons, I'm lucky to have the best wife ever and she is smokin hot, life is good
Been taking the train to work riding my mountain bike to and from station good exercise I need that, saving money to get the engine back together going to be a couple grand by the time I'm done cant do it half ass got to do it right - Wiseco pistons - Brian Crower H beam rods - balance and blueprint it all - new exhaust valves they got hot - cc the combustion chamber in the head - port and polish the head mainly the exhaust port - need adapter to put my 70mm ZDX throttle body on all new gaskets and drop it back in and get back on the dyno.
Optimus how is you're project going getting ready to install ????

ssjoeboe9

Glad you're sticking with it!

Yasser22

Utah, any plans to lower the compression, now that you're replacing the pistons anyway?What about getting a used k24 to swap into the can to just drive it while you're building the motor?

Again I'm so sorry this happened.

optimusaccord

Utah - I'm waiting to make my parts purchase from Axion on here.

After that I'm going to get my emissions test passed, then I'm going to strap everything on, and let her ride....

UTAH TSX

Just ordered p2r adapter to so I can put my mdx throttle body on nice stuff for our cars here
check it out
http://www.powerrevracing.com/Honda-K-Series-s/1878.htm

UTAH TSX

Here's a picture and link to the one we need for our cars it will fit stock manifold or skunk type manifold without idle air control cut out (hole is round no notch like rbc)
they have the one for rbc and rrc also
http://www.powerrevracing.com/Search...&Submit=Search

UTAH TSX

Thinking of getting one of these it has failsafe to cut boost or ignition when it goes too lean so I don't melt my new pistons
http://www.aemelectronics.com/wideba...safe-gauge-84/

HondoGermany

Great Thread and work, Utah.
So sad you blown your engine, and hope you could fix it.
Its hard for me to follow such a technique Thread because of my english, but enjoying it.

waaasobe

man i was just thinking, you should try and get your car featured on the drive network in their segment called tuned. they have videos on youtube.

heres one:

UTAH TSX

The black on the flange is the size of the gasket for the head to converter, I made the turbo manifold to match the gasket, as you can see the port is way smaller than the gasket, I opened up the head to match the manifold and gasket, I think this a good mod for anyone to do with forced induction or naturally aspirated, some free top end horse power here
Some pics, still need to scribe a final match to gasket and clean up the edges but this is about as big as it will be, then put the new valves in and the head will be done

UTAH TSX

I will be installing this also,can use to cut boost if temps get to high out of the head will get some good tuning information when I get back in the dyno, With this and a AEM wide band failsafe gauge I should be pretty safe with the new engine

http://www.coldfusionnitrous.com/nit...ty-switch.aspx

optimusaccord

I want a spare head to have that done to... The amount of material that was opened up was huge... You aren't worried it may be close to a water jacket?

UTAH TSX

I don't believe there is water jacket in the exhaust manifold part( tap test not scientific )
it would be nice to have a junk head to cut up and see how far we can go on the porting
or find blueprint of head

UTAH TSX

I meant to say on the sides, there are water jackets on the top and bottom, I didn't get to crazy there

optimusaccord

Is the porting something that could be performed with the head on the block, by stuffing rags down inside the port to allow for porting of the area? Or would I be better off finding a head that is "complete" and have a local shop do all the chopping?

I know back in the day people would pop off the header, stuff rags down in the ports for port matching work like you are doing, and then pull the rags out when done and run a vacuum through to be thorough....

UTAH TSX

You could do on car stuff the rags good, changing head would be more work and money than it's worth IMO

UTAH TSX

Called NGK today went over our cars with them they recommend one step colder plugs with stock compression ratio and up to 15 LBS of boost, If compression is lowered to 10-1 stock plugs will be ok, here is the part number for one step colder plugs you will want these with stock motor and this turbo kit
NGK PART # LKAR8AI-9

optimusaccord

Utah - I am considering getting the turbo blanket from ebay, there is a spot called PTP that makes a kit that looks just like the DEI... then I'll get the DEI heat wrap, and reflect a gold for heat management. You think that will be o.k.?

Also, for the catch can, can I used one from ebay that is baffled? To keep buying all name brand top of the line stuff, this is turning into a well over 7.5k setup. And to be honest, it's a bit out of control. Not trying to be cheap, just "cost conscious".

UTAH TSX

That looks fine to me I like DEI but it way over priced I would use that one it will work just fine it's not like we are road racing and under full boost all the time.
And the limited slip diff is a bunch of $$$$ and you are getting a killer deal on parts.
I think the turbo will be 5k to 6k but start adding manifolds and other stuff it gets it up there in a hurry, with my motor mishap I will be close to 7k in parts and my labor is free

UTAH TSX

Update, been working 6 days a week since I killed my engine trying to make enough to build this motor, I have almost all of the parts wiesco pistons we decided to go with the 8.8:1 it will be 9.0:1 after decking the block and head we can run a lot more boost on pump gas that way the brian crower rods are freaking nice they look very strong compared to the stock rods supertech gave me a deal on a complete head kit valves springs retainers keepers guides and seals the first k24z3 to get this they are super heavy duty good to 9500 rpm with stock cam I will be upping the redline to 8500 rpm I have all the gaskets just need to get a timing chain and tensioner the block head and crank are at the machine shop getting bored decked and micro polished and all the bearing clearances fine tuned should be done next week so I can start putting it together and back in the car I will get pictures up when I get it back from the machine shop

optimusaccord

Damn....

Keep track of which parts make up the kit for the head work. That will be useful later. For the rods/pistons is it any off the shelf k series piston and rod? Same with valves, springs and retainers??

Also, about to make my purchase from Axion.

Honest thoughts here Utah, the ZDX TB worth it, or stick with the TSX?

Right now I'm a smidge under 3500, still need to pick up two mufflers (would prefer a single 3"... but anyway) and 3 inch SS piping from the cat back, so that's more money. OR, I have been considering maybe getting an electronic cut out post the cat, so I could just flip a switch and have a straight dump post cat.

I'm open to suggestions, any thoughts, etc.

To have everything installed at local shop around 1700, so you know how much I've spent to get the parts and labor for you.

Before I cut the check just thought I'd reach out and see what you thought.

ssjoeboe9

So... I'm designing an oil catch can for our "Senior Design Project." (It's like the biggest project before we graduate as an engineer) We are sponsored by Improved Racing of Orlando. Albeit we are designing it towards LS series engines, it should be universal. It would be cool if you went with our catch can! It's 9 months out.. but I could prolly get you a good price, and it will be the BEST engineered catch can on the market, I personally guarantee it!

opboarding

Joe for your project you should also design a roof spoiler that adds minimum 5whp to the tsx. I believe in you.

UTAH TSX

I NEED ONE BAD
I'm using a antifreeze bottle full of rags in the front fender by the washer bottle temperately
I will buy one for sure sign me up, I need one that will drain back into the block where the PCV valve screws into the block (behind the drive belt tensioner)
Good luck with project, sounds like you are about done with school that's going to be awesome we will change your name to Mr. Joe bad ass engineer extraordinaire, I'm kind of jealous