RV6 I4 PCD/Downpipe for the K24Z3 08+ Accord and 09+ TSX
#401
Burning Brakes
Think I might have a shop install this for me. Never jacked a car this high and first time I've seen jackstands sink down through the cement roads. Too scared to go back under my car now
#402
I'm very interested in getting the Down-pipe and HFC combo. Definitely dont want the rasp. I see that no one has a cat-back exhaust and most people are running off stock exhaust system.
In everyone's educated opinion... do you thing the CT-E Cat Back Exhaust would also produce this rasp... or a different sound then what i hear now. I love the sound that the combination of my INjen CAI and Cat Back Exhaust produce. Not sure i really want it to change.
So again, just wondering what everyone's opinion is..... and if the sound does change... for the worse... a 2nd resonator seems to be the solution, though i dont know if thats really an option since i have the Cat-back exhaust?
Thanks.
In everyone's educated opinion... do you thing the CT-E Cat Back Exhaust would also produce this rasp... or a different sound then what i hear now. I love the sound that the combination of my INjen CAI and Cat Back Exhaust produce. Not sure i really want it to change.
So again, just wondering what everyone's opinion is..... and if the sound does change... for the worse... a 2nd resonator seems to be the solution, though i dont know if thats really an option since i have the Cat-back exhaust?
Thanks.
Last edited by GameOver69; 08-28-2012 at 10:09 PM.
#403
From the links KillerG posted, it seems the best way to kill the rasp is with a second resonator. I think everyone added an aftermarket to stock resonator, but I would assume 2 aftermarkets would work just as well if not better. I think you're right, everyone seemed to have stock mufflers. Don't remember if anyone had aftermarket.
I'm sure the rasp will be there with the CT-E. I guess how much would depend on how much better the CT-E mid muffler is compared to the stock resonator, but I'm sure you would still need to add a second one.
Shouldn't be hard for any shop to do it. If the CT-E mid muffler is same distance from second cat, you go with the vibrant that someone suggested, which was perfect size to fit between flange of second cat, and the stock resonator. Or any resonator that is the same length as the vibrant.
I have a magnaflow resonator and mufflers I've been trying to get installed for a month, buts hit keeps coming up. Plan on it this weekend, but the hurricane may have killed it.
But the magnaflow resonator is long, and m installer just has too move the stock resonator back to fit it.
Shouldn't be difficult at all for any shop to add another resonator to the CT-E
I'm sure the rasp will be there with the CT-E. I guess how much would depend on how much better the CT-E mid muffler is compared to the stock resonator, but I'm sure you would still need to add a second one.
Shouldn't be hard for any shop to do it. If the CT-E mid muffler is same distance from second cat, you go with the vibrant that someone suggested, which was perfect size to fit between flange of second cat, and the stock resonator. Or any resonator that is the same length as the vibrant.
I have a magnaflow resonator and mufflers I've been trying to get installed for a month, buts hit keeps coming up. Plan on it this weekend, but the hurricane may have killed it.
But the magnaflow resonator is long, and m installer just has too move the stock resonator back to fit it.
Shouldn't be difficult at all for any shop to add another resonator to the CT-E
#406
That's right, I forgot Ben has apexi mufflers with stock resonator.
Shit, well I have no idea what I'm talking about. Lol
Maybe new mufflers OR added resonator will do the trick.
Going to have to read thru killerg's links again to see if anyone has aftermarket mufflers in combo with the added resonators.
Too bad he never got to install his PCD so we could see the difference with his magnaflow mufflers.
Maybe when I install my magnaflow mufflers, I'll just replace the stock resonator and see how it sounds. Maybe work out something with the installer that if it doesn't kill the rasp, I'll add the stock one back on in addition.
Shit, well I have no idea what I'm talking about. Lol
Maybe new mufflers OR added resonator will do the trick.
Going to have to read thru killerg's links again to see if anyone has aftermarket mufflers in combo with the added resonators.
Too bad he never got to install his PCD so we could see the difference with his magnaflow mufflers.
Maybe when I install my magnaflow mufflers, I'll just replace the stock resonator and see how it sounds. Maybe work out something with the installer that if it doesn't kill the rasp, I'll add the stock one back on in addition.
#408
Game, your sound, will definitely change if you add this PCD, for good or bad, who knows. All we have to go off is information from a different engine difference piece and our guys who have em in already.
You will be experimenting here, essentially going in blind, and seeing what happens, the downside in your case is that the CTE exhaust is an expensive piece, and if you have rasp you will either need to cut up the CTE exhaust to add a resonator or remove the PCD
As far as ben goes, all mufflers are not created equal, and bens APEXI mufflers are some pretty serious pieces of quality hardware that are capable of quieting his catless exhaust. I dont think we will all have that same experience though,
We'll know more when tob eventually puts his on, or if I get back in time to do it myself before he does around the end of September
Even then though, it could be wildly different from your CTE setup, which has its own diameter piping and resonator in place.
I think me, tob, and euronoob are running just 14832s right now, tjay is running 14832 without 2nd cat, and tsxronald is running 14832 with god knows what crazy shit
Last edited by KillerG; 08-29-2012 at 12:38 PM.
The following 2 users liked this post by KillerG:
GameOver69 (08-30-2012),
VortexBlueTSX (09-01-2012)
#409
Well thanks for that detailed response, Killer.
I dont mind being the guy to try something first.... (i think i had the first milano red SE, and CTE- CATBACK exhaust for the cu2's.) So i would try it, just dont want to lose the money i spend on this one, because again... sound is pretty much perfect.
I definately dont want to cut up the exhaust... cost too much, and is perfect the way it is.
So i guess in everyone's opinion, with the catback... what kind of sound do you think it would produce.... better, worse?
and if i dont like it, how hard would it be to sell the PCD? and recoup most of the money?
Also, are there any High Flow Pre-Cats for our car? maybe that is a better alternative, with just slightly less power gains?
I dont mind being the guy to try something first.... (i think i had the first milano red SE, and CTE- CATBACK exhaust for the cu2's.) So i would try it, just dont want to lose the money i spend on this one, because again... sound is pretty much perfect.
I definately dont want to cut up the exhaust... cost too much, and is perfect the way it is.
So i guess in everyone's opinion, with the catback... what kind of sound do you think it would produce.... better, worse?
and if i dont like it, how hard would it be to sell the PCD? and recoup most of the money?
Also, are there any High Flow Pre-Cats for our car? maybe that is a better alternative, with just slightly less power gains?
Last edited by GameOver69; 08-30-2012 at 02:58 PM.
#410
why would you want a high flow pcd? just run a high flow secondary cat or run the stock secondary cat. How long does the stock cat measure? can you insert a resonator in its place?
#411
Advanced
Ordering the pipe and putting it together with a custom exhaust and 4" OBX mufflers. Will tell you guys how it souds and will do a sound clip. The exhaust goes from 3" till it splits. Then it becomes 2.5" connecting to the mufflers. The exhaust is made from stainless steel so should produce a slight rasp even with a resonator and the mufflers.
#412
if the downpipe has a 2.5" outlet, why would you increase the piping diameter, only to bottle neck it again at the split?
#413
Burning Brakes
Finally got this installed. Kinda disappointed because I here less then what I used to lol. I installed my 2nd resonator first so I could ask the mechanic to loosen the 3 bolts connected to the 2nd cat for free (which he did and he only installed it for 30 bucks with 3 month warranty). After that I heard a bit less rasp from my intake but I thought it would go back up after I installed the PCD. I was wrong I barely here anything now. As far as performance gains I think I can feel a slight difference.
#414
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fn 2 awsum (09-03-2012)
#415
Advanced
Finally got this installed. Kinda disappointed because I here less then what I used to lol. I installed my 2nd resonator first so I could ask the mechanic to loosen the 3 bolts connected to the 2nd cat for free (which he did and he only installed it for 30 bucks with 3 month warranty). After that I heard a bit less rasp from my intake but I thought it would go back up after I installed the PCD. I was wrong I barely here anything now. As far as performance gains I think I can feel a slight difference.
#416
Advanced
This is true. Since its a split system, the split would be 2.5+2.5 making it 5" in total. So realistically its going to be 2.5" down pipe, 3" mid pipe, and 5" in total split into 2x 4" mufflers.
Flashpro and ecu ordered! 3week wait until its here!!
Flashpro and ecu ordered! 3week wait until its here!!
#418
Graphite Ghost
iTrader: (2)
OK, here is an update in case anyone is interested.
I installed the RV-6 PCD and also put in an AEM CAI. Big fan of AEM Dryflow so for me, it was the obvious choice. However, this post is to provide more info about the PCD and possible rasp issues so will stick to that!
Installed the PCD but worried about rasp given all the posts. Sure enough, evil rasp. However, only really noticeable between 2-3k when accelerating as pointed out by previous posts. I have a 6MT so figured I could "drive around the rasp" by minimizing my time between 2-3k but after a week, found I was still annoyed by it. On the other hand, the power gains were truly noticeable! Car pulled harder to redline and a noticeable bump in mid-range torque. I had done something similar on my 08 TL (JPipe and CAI) and those 2 things just wake up Honda engines and let them breathe.
So, what to do? Loved the power, hated the rasp. The solution; get a second resonator (as also mentioned in previous posts, these forums are great!). However, in doing some checking, it seemed that the Magnaflows mentioned were too long for the area right behind the 2nd cat. Did some research and came across this: Vibrant 1141 2.5" Ultra Quiet Resonator. Only 14" long overall with a straight through design. $80 and 3 days later, I had it. Now, the real test, would it kill the rasp? The rest of the exhaust is totally stock, including the stock 2nd Cat.
Well, had it installed today and in one word; Abso-fn-lutely.... Rasp is gone, replaced by a nice mellow growl. So, got the performance gains and have a nice mellow sound and no more rasp! The performance gains of the RV-6 PCD are worth the price. But, if you are not a big fan of rasp, get a second resonator, get it installed and enjoy the benefits of the PCD!
Pic below shows Vibrant installed.
I installed the RV-6 PCD and also put in an AEM CAI. Big fan of AEM Dryflow so for me, it was the obvious choice. However, this post is to provide more info about the PCD and possible rasp issues so will stick to that!
Installed the PCD but worried about rasp given all the posts. Sure enough, evil rasp. However, only really noticeable between 2-3k when accelerating as pointed out by previous posts. I have a 6MT so figured I could "drive around the rasp" by minimizing my time between 2-3k but after a week, found I was still annoyed by it. On the other hand, the power gains were truly noticeable! Car pulled harder to redline and a noticeable bump in mid-range torque. I had done something similar on my 08 TL (JPipe and CAI) and those 2 things just wake up Honda engines and let them breathe.
So, what to do? Loved the power, hated the rasp. The solution; get a second resonator (as also mentioned in previous posts, these forums are great!). However, in doing some checking, it seemed that the Magnaflows mentioned were too long for the area right behind the 2nd cat. Did some research and came across this: Vibrant 1141 2.5" Ultra Quiet Resonator. Only 14" long overall with a straight through design. $80 and 3 days later, I had it. Now, the real test, would it kill the rasp? The rest of the exhaust is totally stock, including the stock 2nd Cat.
Well, had it installed today and in one word; Abso-fn-lutely.... Rasp is gone, replaced by a nice mellow growl. So, got the performance gains and have a nice mellow sound and no more rasp! The performance gains of the RV-6 PCD are worth the price. But, if you are not a big fan of rasp, get a second resonator, get it installed and enjoy the benefits of the PCD!
Pic below shows Vibrant installed.
has anyone with the I4 tried this exact setup yet? sorry for the question....i went throught all 11 pages 17 times looking for an answer/
i will not tolerate DRONE or RASP so I got to know. the icebox on the in side now need some help on the exit/
#419
Burning Brakes
I have the same resonator as him but my 2nd cat is also deleted.
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robpp (09-03-2012)
#420
ROTAREDOM
What's this second resonator look like that people are installing?
#421
Former Sponsor
Thread Starter
#422
Burning Brakes
After 2 days of my normal driving after fueling up a full tank I got a whomping 3-5 mpg increase! I normally average 18-21 but I checked my screen and it said 24.3!!!!!!
#423
However, it was somewhat offset by my desire to hear the CAI at high revs.
#424
Burning Brakes
I have been driving mine around, highway mileage is significantly better. As far as the rasp, I guess I just don't hear it... I've had a Type S built up h22 before, and a turbo F23 before... maybe my expectations for noise are different.
I am ready for sema though so we can move forward with the turbocharger kit or I can just go ahead and bite on the CT S/C setup...
I am ready for sema though so we can move forward with the turbocharger kit or I can just go ahead and bite on the CT S/C setup...
#425
ROTAREDOM
ahhhh so this resonator gets installed where exactly( right after downpipe??) Has this already been mentioned? Didnt really look lol.
Bao send me some pictures or something man.
Bao send me some pictures or something man.
#426
ROTAREDOM
Wait i think I saw a picture on the previous page. This isnt bolt on? there is wleding involved? Too bad you cant just replace the resonator where the 2nd cat is.
#429
also, you think the rasp would be even less with a catback?
and finally do you not hear the pull as much with your CAI/SRI?
#430
Um, not sure exactly what you mean when you ask about trying this exact setup. Mine is an I4 but with stock 2nd cat and totally stock exhaust except for the addition of a 2nd resonator between the stock 2nd cat and the stock resonator. Exhaust just sounds a bit deeper or throatier but no rasp or drone at all.
#431
Graphite Ghost
iTrader: (2)
Um, not sure exactly what you mean when you ask about trying this exact setup. Mine is an I4 but with stock 2nd cat and totally stock exhaust except for the addition of a 2nd resonator between the stock 2nd cat and the stock resonator. Exhaust just sounds a bit deeper or throatier but no rasp or drone at all.
ok thanks. for some reason i thought you had the v6. im old and easily confused
im going to go for it. the pipe and the resonator.
one last q. any CEL or other issues with warning lights, etc. i havent seen a one in the threaed but just checking? the o2 gets hooked up as it should?
#432
#433
ok thanks. for some reason i thought you had the v6. im old and easily confused
im going to go for it. the pipe and the resonator.
one last q. any CEL or other issues with warning lights, etc. i havent seen a one in the threaed but just checking? the o2 gets hooked up as it should?
im going to go for it. the pipe and the resonator.
one last q. any CEL or other issues with warning lights, etc. i havent seen a one in the threaed but just checking? the o2 gets hooked up as it should?
I have 2 CEL lights since install. There is a defouler that is included with the PCD that the second O2 sensor mounts into and it pretty much eliminates the CEL issue. I have found that both times mine went on, it was right after starting the car and immedietely driving 1/2 mile at slow speed (15-20mph) down my driveway then accelerating rather briskly onto the main road. I think the mixture just gets a bit rich or the computer is adjusting to the CAI but not exactly sure. If I let the car warm up for a minute or so, no CEL. Run it to redline or just crusing, no CEL. Both times it came on were under the exact same conditions.
Now, I am anal about CEL's and stuff but knowing what I know now about what sets it off (and that you can reset it by pulling the negative battery cable for 5 minutes or so), it doesn't bother me. Either way, I am pleased with the addition of the PCD and CAI. I just carry a wrench with me so if the CEL comes on, I can reset it at my next stop and be done with it. See, I don't even like waiting until I get home to reset it, that is how much that glowing little yellow engine light bugs me. Hope this helps
#434
Burning Brakes
No problem. I too am a member of the old and easily confused club
I have 2 CEL lights since install. There is a defouler that is included with the PCD that the second O2 sensor mounts into and it pretty much eliminates the CEL issue. I have found that both times mine went on, it was right after starting the car and immedietely driving 1/2 mile at slow speed (15-20mph) down my driveway then accelerating rather briskly onto the main road. I think the mixture just gets a bit rich or the computer is adjusting to the CAI but not exactly sure. If I let the car warm up for a minute or so, no CEL. Run it to redline or just crusing, no CEL. Both times it came on were under the exact same conditions.
Now, I am anal about CEL's and stuff but knowing what I know now about what sets it off (and that you can reset it by pulling the negative battery cable for 5 minutes or so), it doesn't bother me. Either way, I am pleased with the addition of the PCD and CAI. I just carry a wrench with me so if the CEL comes on, I can reset it at my next stop and be done with it. See, I don't even like waiting until I get home to reset it, that is how much that glowing little yellow engine light bugs me. Hope this helps
I have 2 CEL lights since install. There is a defouler that is included with the PCD that the second O2 sensor mounts into and it pretty much eliminates the CEL issue. I have found that both times mine went on, it was right after starting the car and immedietely driving 1/2 mile at slow speed (15-20mph) down my driveway then accelerating rather briskly onto the main road. I think the mixture just gets a bit rich or the computer is adjusting to the CAI but not exactly sure. If I let the car warm up for a minute or so, no CEL. Run it to redline or just crusing, no CEL. Both times it came on were under the exact same conditions.
Now, I am anal about CEL's and stuff but knowing what I know now about what sets it off (and that you can reset it by pulling the negative battery cable for 5 minutes or so), it doesn't bother me. Either way, I am pleased with the addition of the PCD and CAI. I just carry a wrench with me so if the CEL comes on, I can reset it at my next stop and be done with it. See, I don't even like waiting until I get home to reset it, that is how much that glowing little yellow engine light bugs me. Hope this helps
Any way I went ahead and put 2 defoulers on top of that elbow and I never had a CEL but I only driven maybe about 20 miles since install. (Don't drive much in gainesville)
#435
Burning Brakes
So, you guy's added another defouler to the PCD?
#437
Burning Brakes
When you install the PCD, you remove a catalytic converter (CAT). The CAT heats up super hot and burns off any remaining nasty things in the exhaust to keep the air clean. Oxygen (O2) sensors monitor the amount of left over oxygen in the exhaust gas which determines CAT performance and sends feedback to the ECU.
The 1st O2 sensor (the one that is accessed from the top of the engine) will provide feedback to the ECU in order to adjust the fuel map. Too little fuel, engine runs lean, too much O2 in the exhaust, ECU will add fuel until its within parameters. Too much fuel, too little O2 in the exhaust, ECU will lean out the fuel until its within parameters.
The 2nd O2 sensor is what triggers most CEL's when removing CATs. This O2 sensor is located after the CAT and measures how effectively the CAT is performing. Comparing readings from the O2 sensor upstream from the CAT, the ECU can throw a CEL for anything from a faulty CAT or sensor to an exhaust leak. Since the PCD removes the CAT, theoretically, the oxygen readings in both sensor will read the same. This tells the ECU that the CAT is not doing its job, or there is an exhaust leak where oxygen is coming in and making the oxygen level high. ECU throws a CEL so the driver can plug in a OBD reader and find out what sensor is at fault and why its throwing the fault.
This is where defoulers or CAT simulators come into play. A defouler is typically used to prevent spark plugs from fouling. The defouler is just a straight tube (angled in the case of RV6 PCD) with a spark plug threads on both ends. It spaces spark plugs back from the combustion chamber so they don't foul up, typically on lawn/industrial equipment. Someone discovered back in the day that O2 sensor threads are the same as spark plug threads. People use defoulers to space the O2 sensor back or out of the direct stream of exhaust gas. The effect of this is that the O2 sensor get exposed to less exhaust gas and what really matters, less O2. This is why they're sometimes called as CAT simulators. The O2 sensors senses less oxygen than the upstream O2 sensor and the ECU thinks, "Hey, everything is cool because I see less oxygen in the downstream O2 sensor which means the CAT is doing its job. I won't throw an CEL".
I tested the RV6 PCD prototype on my car for a year with just the angled defouler and had no CEL's. I live in Chicago, been through weeks where it was below freezing blizzard conditions and also been on long road trips when it was over 100 deg out with 100% humidity, AC on full blast and never got a CEL. The reason why some CEL's are popping up now is that not everyone lives in the same climate/elevation as Chicago. The engine will always adjust for the conditions it is operating in. If I lived out west in the higher elevation states, the air is thinner with less oxygen, or if i lived at the coast at sea level where oxygen will be "thickest", ECU must adjust to get it running within the correct parameters. You see this a lot in NHRA drag racing when dragsters have to constantly be tuned for max performance because they travel from track to track all around the country. Because of the ECU adjusting fuel maps, this might cause the exhaust to have a little more or less oxygen in it which the defouler can't adjust automatically for and the ECU will throw a CEL. That is why some guys put an extension on the defouler so the O2 sensor senses less O2.
In the end, if a CEL pops up, it doesn't mean the PCD is going to cause your engine to melt down or blow up. It just means the engine thinks sensor readings might be off and wants you to check the CAT/sensors to ensure it's still blowing clean emissions out the back.
The 1st O2 sensor (the one that is accessed from the top of the engine) will provide feedback to the ECU in order to adjust the fuel map. Too little fuel, engine runs lean, too much O2 in the exhaust, ECU will add fuel until its within parameters. Too much fuel, too little O2 in the exhaust, ECU will lean out the fuel until its within parameters.
The 2nd O2 sensor is what triggers most CEL's when removing CATs. This O2 sensor is located after the CAT and measures how effectively the CAT is performing. Comparing readings from the O2 sensor upstream from the CAT, the ECU can throw a CEL for anything from a faulty CAT or sensor to an exhaust leak. Since the PCD removes the CAT, theoretically, the oxygen readings in both sensor will read the same. This tells the ECU that the CAT is not doing its job, or there is an exhaust leak where oxygen is coming in and making the oxygen level high. ECU throws a CEL so the driver can plug in a OBD reader and find out what sensor is at fault and why its throwing the fault.
This is where defoulers or CAT simulators come into play. A defouler is typically used to prevent spark plugs from fouling. The defouler is just a straight tube (angled in the case of RV6 PCD) with a spark plug threads on both ends. It spaces spark plugs back from the combustion chamber so they don't foul up, typically on lawn/industrial equipment. Someone discovered back in the day that O2 sensor threads are the same as spark plug threads. People use defoulers to space the O2 sensor back or out of the direct stream of exhaust gas. The effect of this is that the O2 sensor get exposed to less exhaust gas and what really matters, less O2. This is why they're sometimes called as CAT simulators. The O2 sensors senses less oxygen than the upstream O2 sensor and the ECU thinks, "Hey, everything is cool because I see less oxygen in the downstream O2 sensor which means the CAT is doing its job. I won't throw an CEL".
I tested the RV6 PCD prototype on my car for a year with just the angled defouler and had no CEL's. I live in Chicago, been through weeks where it was below freezing blizzard conditions and also been on long road trips when it was over 100 deg out with 100% humidity, AC on full blast and never got a CEL. The reason why some CEL's are popping up now is that not everyone lives in the same climate/elevation as Chicago. The engine will always adjust for the conditions it is operating in. If I lived out west in the higher elevation states, the air is thinner with less oxygen, or if i lived at the coast at sea level where oxygen will be "thickest", ECU must adjust to get it running within the correct parameters. You see this a lot in NHRA drag racing when dragsters have to constantly be tuned for max performance because they travel from track to track all around the country. Because of the ECU adjusting fuel maps, this might cause the exhaust to have a little more or less oxygen in it which the defouler can't adjust automatically for and the ECU will throw a CEL. That is why some guys put an extension on the defouler so the O2 sensor senses less O2.
In the end, if a CEL pops up, it doesn't mean the PCD is going to cause your engine to melt down or blow up. It just means the engine thinks sensor readings might be off and wants you to check the CAT/sensors to ensure it's still blowing clean emissions out the back.
#438
Burning Brakes
#439
Burning Brakes
So I need to add another defouler... As I want my car to pass emissions, and in Missouri -- All that is needed is no CEL and all sensors in ready mode.