RSP Manifold install on AUSDM Honda Accord Euro CU2
#1
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RSP Manifold install on AUSDM Honda Accord Euro CU2
The RSP manifold comes from the FN2R which i am fortunate enough to pull out of my very own FN2R. The RSP manifold is a 3 piece manifold consisting of the runners, torque plenum and velocity stack (which sits inside the plenum).
i forgot where i read it from but apparently the RSP gains the most torque out of the manifolds. here is a table comparing it between the RBB and RBC manifolds.
things you will need for install-
-Hondata IMG (TSX/CIVIC SI)
-T fitting
-KARCEPTS K-SERIES INTAKE AIR BYPASS CONTROL THERMAL VALVE DELETE
-(for SRI users) 1x silicone connector+2 hose clamps+ 1x 3'' Pipe
-10mm+12mm socket wrench
-2x 10mm+
-smaller fuel injectors. (either that or a deremel grinder and steady hands)
Ok first of all taking off the stock manifold was easy. just unbolt everything. remember where it all goes and youll be fine. only thing you have to do is unscrew the stud(do this by placing 2 nuts together on the stud and use 2 spanners to get it out) on the left side so its easy to take out. otherwise the belt is in the way and theres no possible way of taking it out without any damage dealt.
once thats off, its time to put the manifold on. at this point youll need to cut some hoses to make them shorter and intall the T fitting. from now on ill be writing up what went wrong with our install.
the RSP fits perfectly into the k24z3 head and i was so excited at the time and couldnt wait to take it for a spin. and then came a problem.. the fuel injectors are too big for the manifold.. so we got a dremel and had to grind the top ring of the injectors only a LITTLE BIT. you dont want to over grind them or thats it game over. then we got slightly smaller rubber O rings to replace the OEM O rings because they were also too big for a snug fit. might i add that i am using the OEM Intake Manifold Gasket because im one of those lazy people that cannot wait for a new gasket to come in. if i had got the new gasket from the beginning then another problem wouldnt of happened. so we put everything together and the next problem was the intake had been relocated but that didnt matter because we were going to fix that up the next day anyways. if you think the intake isnt going to be relocated that much with the RSP then you are wrong lol. SO, we started up the car and let it run for a good... 10 seconds... everything was all good...until.... *drip drip drip* coolant started to come out from the manifold and head. what we didnt plan on is that the hole that was meant to be covered with the hondata gasket wasnt FULLY covered. there was a SLIGHT gap between the manifold,gasket,and head. My mechanic friend was like stuff this! he took it off again and took it to work today to get that little hole welded.
going to install the RSP again tonight and take it for a run. Ill be sure to post up how it went and hopefully get some pictures too.
i forgot where i read it from but apparently the RSP gains the most torque out of the manifolds. here is a table comparing it between the RBB and RBC manifolds.
things you will need for install-
-Hondata IMG (TSX/CIVIC SI)
-T fitting
-KARCEPTS K-SERIES INTAKE AIR BYPASS CONTROL THERMAL VALVE DELETE
-(for SRI users) 1x silicone connector+2 hose clamps+ 1x 3'' Pipe
-10mm+12mm socket wrench
-2x 10mm+
-smaller fuel injectors. (either that or a deremel grinder and steady hands)
Ok first of all taking off the stock manifold was easy. just unbolt everything. remember where it all goes and youll be fine. only thing you have to do is unscrew the stud(do this by placing 2 nuts together on the stud and use 2 spanners to get it out) on the left side so its easy to take out. otherwise the belt is in the way and theres no possible way of taking it out without any damage dealt.
once thats off, its time to put the manifold on. at this point youll need to cut some hoses to make them shorter and intall the T fitting. from now on ill be writing up what went wrong with our install.
the RSP fits perfectly into the k24z3 head and i was so excited at the time and couldnt wait to take it for a spin. and then came a problem.. the fuel injectors are too big for the manifold.. so we got a dremel and had to grind the top ring of the injectors only a LITTLE BIT. you dont want to over grind them or thats it game over. then we got slightly smaller rubber O rings to replace the OEM O rings because they were also too big for a snug fit. might i add that i am using the OEM Intake Manifold Gasket because im one of those lazy people that cannot wait for a new gasket to come in. if i had got the new gasket from the beginning then another problem wouldnt of happened. so we put everything together and the next problem was the intake had been relocated but that didnt matter because we were going to fix that up the next day anyways. if you think the intake isnt going to be relocated that much with the RSP then you are wrong lol. SO, we started up the car and let it run for a good... 10 seconds... everything was all good...until.... *drip drip drip* coolant started to come out from the manifold and head. what we didnt plan on is that the hole that was meant to be covered with the hondata gasket wasnt FULLY covered. there was a SLIGHT gap between the manifold,gasket,and head. My mechanic friend was like stuff this! he took it off again and took it to work today to get that little hole welded.
going to install the RSP again tonight and take it for a run. Ill be sure to post up how it went and hopefully get some pictures too.
#2
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a few people here in perth, western australia, have tried the RRC VS RSP and all have said that the RSP gains more over the RRC until the RSP runs short and the RRC continues 1000rpm more. so in reality if you want good top range go for RRC. if you are looking for low- mid range then go for RSP. ill find the dyno sheet later on a CL9 frank. he gained 3hp in the top end with the RRC but lost about 5nm and lost mid range.
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Euronoob (09-18-2012)
#7
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PICTURES WILL BE UP SOON. ALL I CAN SAY IS WOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOW TO THE EXTRA TORQUE AND IT REVS A LOT BETTER!!! it also make my SRI whistle hahaha. as expected. low to mid range torque has been improved A LOT. no exaggeration.. throttle response has also gone up. will give more details and pictures later.
euronoob: yeah man ask BYP to source one out for you. they will actually try to get u to buy an rrc... but they dont do much street work to know whats good for street lol. all their cars are track/drag monsters lol. i can try to ask my fn2r forum members for you if you like.
euronoob: yeah man ask BYP to source one out for you. they will actually try to get u to buy an rrc... but they dont do much street work to know whats good for street lol. all their cars are track/drag monsters lol. i can try to ask my fn2r forum members for you if you like.
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#9
Damn!!! So tempted now since oyu're saying low-mid range! Plus the PCD soon as well. Shiet...
If you don't mind, could you please ask for me!!
How long did the install take roughly? Any skills required? What if you're a complete noob like me? Did you have your mechanic friends to help?
If you don't mind, could you please ask for me!!
How long did the install take roughly? Any skills required? What if you're a complete noob like me? Did you have your mechanic friends to help?
#10
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Damn!!! So tempted now since oyu're saying low-mid range! Plus the PCD soon as well. Shiet...
If you don't mind, could you please ask for me!!
How long did the install take roughly? Any skills required? What if you're a complete noob like me? Did you have your mechanic friends to help?
If you don't mind, could you please ask for me!!
How long did the install take roughly? Any skills required? What if you're a complete noob like me? Did you have your mechanic friends to help?
#11
Burning Brakes
Manifold swap isn't too bad, just be sure that you have antifreeze/coolant, and that you allow the coolant system to be properly warmed up and evacuate any air bubbles via the "burping" or "bleeding" method.
#12
Thanks for that write up. I know I will be getting a new manifold soon too so any information on complications or roadblocks is super useful
#15
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I said you need the hondata GASKET. We are running the manifold without any problems right now and with no reflash. No CELs, no leaks, nothing. I will upload a picture tonight. Sorry guys its taking so long for a picture. Been busy with my FN2R atm. Getting both cars set up for tuning is a real bitch to juggle
#16
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I have the 09-10 TSX ECU on the way with a Flashpro being sent together. It wasnt cheap ill tell you that. But once i have that installed too ill tell you guys all about it. My biggest concern now is the PCD getting here on time
#17
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before. ahh uploaded the wrong photo LOL. was supposed to upload the one without the iphone stuff...
after. spot the difference
didnt even realize she was in the photo -__-"
Her car, My car
and if you were all wondering. here is MY car
Honda Civic Type R FN2R K20Z4
after. spot the difference
didnt even realize she was in the photo -__-"
Her car, My car
and if you were all wondering. here is MY car
Honda Civic Type R FN2R K20Z4
#19
Wait. So as long as you have a regular 09-10 TSX ECU, hondata can sync up and work all fine? Cause I have a 2012 TSX and Im ITCHING to get hondata.
#21
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ahh in theory it should work for 09-10 CU2s. not sure if itll stuff up anything for the 11-12... our model is 09 MY10 so should be ok for us. ill tell you how it goes hahaha
#22
Burning Brakes
Does that manifold have a huge plenum? Any difference in power? I want a manifold with plenty of plenum volume, and the runners seem to be a bit shorter, which lends itself to higher revving power...
#24
now the question is.. where does one source one of these mani's if we dont have an FN2R handy to just pull one off of
great post btw!
questions ... what's the t-fitting for? and if we don't want to take our chances with the dremel, what injectors/o-rings can we use instead?
great post btw!
questions ... what's the t-fitting for? and if we don't want to take our chances with the dremel, what injectors/o-rings can we use instead?
#25
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now the question is.. where does one source one of these mani's if we dont have an FN2R handy to just pull one off of
great post btw!
questions ... what's the t-fitting for? and if we don't want to take our chances with the dremel, what injectors/o-rings can we use instead?
great post btw!
questions ... what's the t-fitting for? and if we don't want to take our chances with the dremel, what injectors/o-rings can we use instead?
The T fitting was for the 2 vacuum lines that went into the OEM manifold. Instead of splitting off into 2 different places, its now T fitted to go into one line.
As for the injectors, we were thinking of using CL9 or CL7 injectors because ive read some where that apparently the NEW K24 engine comes with slightly bigger injectors. And slightly they were lol.
Hope that helps
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fiebru1119 (09-28-2012)
#26
RSP manifolds i believe you have to source out from England, if not im pretty sure the japanese can source them out too. I guess you just have to look around on fn2r forums pretty much. Sorry i cant help much with that lol.
The T fitting was for the 2 vacuum lines that went into the OEM manifold. Instead of splitting off into 2 different places, its now T fitted to go into one line.
As for the injectors, we were thinking of using CL9 or CL7 injectors because ive read some where that apparently the NEW K24 engine comes with slightly bigger injectors. And slightly they were lol.
Hope that helps
The T fitting was for the 2 vacuum lines that went into the OEM manifold. Instead of splitting off into 2 different places, its now T fitted to go into one line.
As for the injectors, we were thinking of using CL9 or CL7 injectors because ive read some where that apparently the NEW K24 engine comes with slightly bigger injectors. And slightly they were lol.
Hope that helps
#27
Burning Brakes
Good lord... the plenum volume on that thing is huge....
I need to see what the power curve looks like with this thing pre install, post install, and then with a tune. I bet this would be a good foundation for a turbo build....
I need to see what the power curve looks like with this thing pre install, post install, and then with a tune. I bet this would be a good foundation for a turbo build....
#29
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people who cant wait to have a huge amount of torque
*UPDATE* i forgot to add that the exhaust note changed as well. its less of a sluggish rumble and more of a really deep growl. the full exhaust is getting made and put on now. will post up a sound clip when i get a chance. most likely tonight or tomorrow night. im also still waiting on the RV6 PCD to arrive.
*UPDATE* i forgot to add that the exhaust note changed as well. its less of a sluggish rumble and more of a really deep growl. the full exhaust is getting made and put on now. will post up a sound clip when i get a chance. most likely tonight or tomorrow night. im also still waiting on the RV6 PCD to arrive.
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fn 2 awsum (10-06-2012)
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fn 2 awsum (10-06-2012)
#32
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ahaha this is my gf and the owner of the CU2. like she said the exhaust has a nice deep growl under 3k rpm. but when u start going up to the top end it has this really aggressive grunt to it and it picks up torque faster. and yes we will be doing a sound clip soon.
#33
I really hope your ECU/hondata project works out man..it will be a game changer for me if it does
#34
This thread is about a 1st gen CL9 who did something similar to you. Just saw it and thought I would post in here in case there is any usable information at all.
http://www.t s x c l u b .com/forums/ecu-tuning/61456-ecu-swap-questions.html
http://www.t s x c l u b .com/forums/ecu-tuning/61456-ecu-swap-questions.html
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fn 2 awsum (10-07-2012)
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#38
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#39
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oh and btw. the tuning will not be with the RV6 PCD as it only got sent yesterday..so it wont arrive on time. We have a very very skilled honda tuner coming in from singapore to tune our hondas for A day this week, and sadly we will not be able to unlock the full potential of bolt ons for the CU2. there are no other tuners in Perth that tune honda cars so this rare opportunity cannot be seized to its fullest. *insert sad face*
#40
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