Rear package self removal for sub replacement
 

I’m at the point in my ELS project that I need to remove the rear deck sub, I have searched and cannot find any removal instructions. Anybody know how to do this?
I’m going to go with an 8 or 10inch in a sealed box and possible mount it under the shelf so it fires thru the factory opening. I might try to make a box that attaches to the factory location, who knows?
I have the ELS pre amp ready to go in but I can’t run the factory sub off my amp so it has to go...

Jeff

Go to acura OEM parts.com and search on back seat or rear shelf. Not really an instruction manual but it has exploded views showing where all the bolts and clips are.

If you use the link below, you'll be able to subscribe to all Honda manuals for a nominal fee:

http://www.helminc.com/helm/welcome_...asp?Style=helm

I used it to download PDFs for removing my suspension components, and while I was there I believe I saw diagrams for removing interior trim.

if you would, please do the community a big service by taking pics and doing a DIY guide to remove the rear shelf. Mr. O posted the exact link you will need to do it. IF you document and make a small guide to remove the rear shelf it would make it very easy for us to add in the civic LED brake light :)

If you still need the info for rear parcel shelf removal, please pm me your email address and I will fire it off to you.

Sent- Good Luck

i just posted a thread on this xD
thanks for always having the relevant info on hand tech!

That's exactly what I've always wanted to do! I love the idea of a sealed enclosure from underneath the rear deck and have the sub in the stock location. I just thought I was crazy. Think it would work?

Well I just ordered my sub Boston G108 inch that only needs .3 cuft sealed enclosure which is the smallest I could find. The next smallest was the Polk MM840 at .35 but that added an inch to the depth. I will use a RF Punch 300.1 to drive it. It will take some work to get it mounted but I think I can do it; I have a good set of wood working tools. This will be my first enclosure since I usually stick the electronics, but now’s my chance to give the table saw a workout.

Tech, thanks again for the instructions!

Jeff

I did it, I built a small .3cuft sealed box that fits under the factory location. I will post some pics during the week; it’s been a long weekend. I can’t wait for my sub to arrive.
Still have to get the rear deck cover off to remove the factory sub.

Jeff

I'm def. waiting to see this!

Here are a few quick pictures of the sub box, remember this is a mockup to check the fit and not the final box. The goal is not to drill or cut the car.
Jeff
http://img140.imageshack.us/i/tsx2gsub3.jpg/
http://img845.imageshack.us/i/tysx2gsub2.jpg/
http://img215.imageshack.us/i/tsx2gsub1.jpg/

That seems like it will turn out really well. Are you going to carpet it? Any straight into the trunk shots so we can see how low it hangs down?

http://img600.imageshack.us/img600/2687/tsx2gensub4.jpg

This not a very good shot, it was late and the light was bad. Anyhow the height of the box is 7 inches and the back hangs down about an inch and a half to clear the torsion bar clip. The box wasn’t tucked fully up in this shoot again because I am working on the fit. Once I get the actual woofer and get the shelf off I can finish working out the mounting and get a better picture.
I will carpet or paint it to match the interior truck colors
Jeff

Does the box need to be directly under the sub or could the box be built wider so it doesn't hang down so low? Spread the space out..... Also, how much space is there under the factory grill cover in the rear shelf cover? I'm assuming the aftermarket sub sticks up quite a bit higher than the factory sub. When you get your sub in, can you take pics of the hole in the rear deck before the new sub goes in and after?

I looking at a few options but you need clearance inside the box for the woofer so you can only make it so flat. A shallow mount woofer would help here but I didn’t go with one. If the DVD player wasn’t in the way it could go a little wider but again limited by the woofer. I still need to figure out how to take the C pillar cover off so I can remove the shelf. My goal is to have good clean bass, keep enough room for my golf clubs and not drill any holes or cut any metal.

Also, I want the sub to fire up thru the vacated factory opening with the hopes of having more sound in the cabin and less in the trunk. This should also limit deck rattles

Jeff

^C Pillar removal pdf file sent. Good luck

I can't wait to see how this turns out. That's basically my dream set up. I'm really jealous at your DIY skills.

My woofer and amp came on Monday and I did a basic bench test of the setup and it sounded good. I decided not to try and mount the woofer in the factory spot since it would shake the deck like crazy and I don’t think I could get a good air tight seal between the cabinet and deck. The slightest air leak kills the low end. I decided on two boxes, one will hang down about 8 inches but will require no mods to the deck. The second will only hang down somewhere between 5.5 and 6.5 inches but will require that the NAV DVD player be relocated. The final size will be determined by sound quality but I ‘m going to try and make it as thin as possible.
I still haven’t removed the deck because I have to get some clips from the dealer to reinstall the C-pillars (air bag covers). Also this might have to wait until after my daughter delivers, she is due on the 27th and the hospital is an hour away from my house so I can’t have the car in pieces when I get the call from her husband.
Jeff

I'm confused. You aren't putting it in the stock location, but you're still going to have a box that hangs down? Is the sub in the box then and you're just using the factory hole to vent into the cabin?

Yes the sub will be in a sealed box with the woofer pointed up through the factory opening since I am going for tight and smooth rather than thump and bang like a home theater system. There is no reason why you couldn’t reuse the existing factory sub location and build a box under it but I ‘m sure you can get tighter bass and less deck rattle if you don’t. The box I’m going to test will only hang down 5.5 or 6 inches.
Jeff

hey jeff did you finish the ELS prototype ?????

Yes, I’m working on a sub and enclosure so I can install the pre amp. I already have the front and rear speakers upgraded and once I get the sub finished I can install the amps and replace the ELS amp with the pre amp.
I will be using a JL 300-4 and a Punch 300-1.
jeff

So no rear doors? What about the center channel? Just summing it with the front doors?

i have everything JL 300-4 for the doors and rockford fosgate punch 200-2 for the rear and JL 1000-1 for a 12W7 and kinetic battery and optima battery + Alumapro CAP i only need its the preamp because i was going to put a L6 audio control but after reading all your post that will not work so let me know if u wanted to sell it and how much???

hi,
how can you connect the new amp to the els system ?I will change my amp and i have euro accord with premium audio.

Here is a picture of the proof of concept unit, the metal box is the brains and the plastic box with the RCA jacks is the preamp. I ran it with just the fronts and the sub box running of the JL. I have the power line running along the outside of the car connected with a large alligator clip (should have snapped a photo of that!). The first thing I noticed was the high frequency shrillness was gone and you cloud actually play the system at a low level and get more the just the highs. I will also need to make some changes in the SW to make it a little faster and fix a few startup shutdown clicks. This should not be a problem to correct. When I am happy with the changes I will build the real prototype which will include all the HW changes I have made. The end system will work like this:
In all modes but DVD-A , you will have front and rear stereo outputs and a sub output (no center)
In DVD-A mode the center signal will be summed with the front and you will have front, rear surround and SUB outputs. Or another option would be just to sum the center and rears to the front for a stereo front stage only system. I would like some input on this since it will be a different hardware setup and not an option.
http://img855.imageshack.us/img855/9...preamptest.jpg

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Here is a shot of the thinner sub box I that will require a relocate of the NAV DVD, it won’t hang down as far as the first one. I started to remove the package shelf but had to stop because my wife discovered that house had been damaged in last night’s storm.
http://img816.imageshack.us/img816/8...x2backseat.jpg

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

I will try again next weekend.

Jeff

hey jeff how its the progress on the pre-amp did u have the chance to work on it?

Yes, I did a full test today with front/rear and sub and it sounded real good. I had a small bug in the program that prevented the data ACK to the HU but I have it just about fixed. The ACK keeps the HU and preamp in sync to prevent delays when you adjust the controls. I will test it again tomorrow. I am confident in the design to move to a full prototype which I will start next week.
My final design will play allow for DVD-A with the center channel blended into the front. I think this is best because you are just not going to get good sound from the small center dash speaker.
The last thing is I only have the information for the 2009, if there are any changes for 2010-11 I will need to know about them, I understand the NAV was going to be Stereo for 2011.
Jeff

Ok, I finished my sub install. Big thanks to 09TSXTech for the rear shelf and C-pillar removal instructions.
I pulled out the factory sub and install a small sealed box with an 8 inch. The box is mounted using existing holes so I did not have to drill or modify any sheet metal. I used rubber washers on both sides of the mount
The first this is disconnect the negative battery wire. This is not an option, you have to remove the C-Pillar and that is the side airbag cover. You have to hit it with a mallet to dislodge to cover and then replace a special trim clip.
I relocated the DVD drive for the NAV using a under dash DIN mount, I misjudged the slack in the harness so I cut the mounting board a little short.
So far so good, I have to adjust the gains but I have some good sound all-around and it’s nice to be able to hear the kick on the drums. I do not hear any rear shelf rattles so that’s a good thing. This has been a lot of work but I am happy with the sound. I have a second post about the preamp.
lots of pics so I will keep them small
http://img151.imageshack.us/img151/9...1881001.th.jpg
http://img802.imageshack.us/img802/7...1885005.th.jpg
http://img42.imageshack.us/img42/847...1886006.th.jpg
http://img228.imageshack.us/img228/1...1888008.th.jpg
http://img546.imageshack.us/img546/2...1890010.th.jpg
http://img43.imageshack.us/img43/5/p5291891011.th.jpg
http://img97.imageshack.us/img97/128...1896016.th.jpg
http://img204.imageshack.us/img204/8...1898018.th.jpg
http://img143.imageshack.us/img143/5...1900020.th.jpg
http://img607.imageshack.us/img607/8...1904024.th.jpg
http://img833.imageshack.us/img833/3...1905025.th.jpg
http://img687.imageshack.us/img687/4...1906026.th.jpg
http://img815.imageshack.us/img815/2...1907027.th.jpg

Great work and excellent writeup Jeff.

Does the sub need to be sealed against the bottom of the rear shelf? It looks like there is a gap. Are you losing sound there?

No not really, the sub enclosure is sealed. Mounting under the existing opening makes a huge difference in the output to the cabin compared to just sitting in the trunk. I was thinking of using some foam between the top of the sub box and the rear deck because the rear deck is not flat. I was thinking that the deck might rattle with the sub box couple to it. Surprisingly I have not detected any rattles and I gave it a good workout today. I think it has to do with the box adding mass and stiffness to the sub area of the deck.
Next I have to mount the amps and finish the PCB for the preamp.
Jeff

I wish I had your time and talents...

nice setup

Has any one found a 12v constant from the trunk that could power a sub amp?

amp to speaker box
 

Hello,
I need the box from the amp to the oem speakers for my Audio Project in my Honda Accord.

Please send me a link to buy it.

http://api.viglink.com/api/click?for...13564426173132

Thank you, Bernhard87 from Austria

Hey mercman,
I really need your input i got the seats removed as well as the pillars, but am stuck on the rear shelf and cover for the speakers. I've been taking clips off in the trunk but still stuck on the rear shelf the 3rd picture in this posts. Any possibility you have any other info that can help me???

Thanks buddy

Sorry, just saw this, did you get the shelf removed or are you still stuck?

Jeff

Looks good