Loose steering
#1
Styl1n
Thread Starter
Loose steering
Hey guys does anyone have the feel of loose steering I know when I first got the car up to 15k miles the steering was stiff and nice now I have about 16500 and the steering feels a bit loose. Anyone have this issue or is this just all the parts settled in?
#2
Pro
The electric power steering has never felt confidence inspiring to me from the get go.
But have you changed anything that has steering input or ground contact? Could just be the tires getting worn down.
I notice a difference in steering feel changing over from 225/50's snow tires to 245/40's summer tires every year. Wider contact patch makes the system work a bit harder.
But have you changed anything that has steering input or ground contact? Could just be the tires getting worn down.
I notice a difference in steering feel changing over from 225/50's snow tires to 245/40's summer tires every year. Wider contact patch makes the system work a bit harder.
#3
Styl1n
Thread Starter
The electric power steering has never felt confidence inspiring to me from the get go.
But have you changed anything that has steering input or ground contact? Could just be the tires getting worn down.
I notice a difference in steering feel changing over from 225/50's snow tires to 245/40's summer tires every year. Wider contact patch makes the system work a bit harder.
But have you changed anything that has steering input or ground contact? Could just be the tires getting worn down.
I notice a difference in steering feel changing over from 225/50's snow tires to 245/40's summer tires every year. Wider contact patch makes the system work a bit harder.
#4
You say your steering feels very different in 1,500 miles of driving?
Put car on rack.
Check all 4 tires.
Check front tie rods.
Check all front end bushings for cracks, tears, and play.
Check all front end ball joints for play.
Put car on rack.
Check all 4 tires.
Check front tie rods.
Check all front end bushings for cracks, tears, and play.
Check all front end ball joints for play.
#5
Drifting
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: City of Champs, MA
Age: 33
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I just replaced lower and upper ball joints this weekend and WOW what a difference. Car feels new again. Next up are the front sway bar end links and bushings which are also worn and rattling.
#6
For BMW, whose suspension, especially if it is a Sports Model, or M Model, the control arm's ball joints and bushings are a high-wear item. The front end sees the lion's share of this abuse. The front tie rods are part of this as well.
The TSX stock suspension, is not as aggressive as the BMW non-Sport model.
Having +1 or +2 wheel size wheel increase/speed up control arm wear and tear.
For BMW the front end, depending upon where you live (street conditions, pot holes etc), one accepts doing front end control arms every 30K to 50K miles. The rear ends need love every 50K to 75K miles.
German rubber is notorious for wearing out faster than the Asian rubber.
The TSX's suspension is new to me, but they are all the same...control arms formed into a shapes of triangles, with rubber on one end, ball joint on the other. After 30K miles, it's wise to check your suspension every oil change (takes all of 10 minutes). Sloppy steering wheel and Vibration are the instant signals that something is awry.
iSeeYouToo....what year is your car, how many miles, and what specific pieces and parts were replaced? It's good campfire knowledge to share in the thread.
Also, FYI, rubber bushings, when replaced, need to be PRELOADED before they are torqued to Final Spec's. In other words...the weight of the car needs to be on the wheels/tires, as those bushings are torqued. Think about it - one doesn't walk outside into a 40 mph wind holding a kite's string with 2 fingers; the bushing need to be 'marinated' in place, and torqued with weight on wheels, prepared to drive down the road accordingly.
Grabbing your front tires at 12/6 and 3/9, checking for play, while also having someone perform that, as you LOOK at each control arm is key. Using an 18" or longer pry bar to really check balljoints/bushings for play is also key.
As always, when it comes to suspension parts...it's OEM or it's not going in my car.
The TSX stock suspension, is not as aggressive as the BMW non-Sport model.
Having +1 or +2 wheel size wheel increase/speed up control arm wear and tear.
For BMW the front end, depending upon where you live (street conditions, pot holes etc), one accepts doing front end control arms every 30K to 50K miles. The rear ends need love every 50K to 75K miles.
German rubber is notorious for wearing out faster than the Asian rubber.
The TSX's suspension is new to me, but they are all the same...control arms formed into a shapes of triangles, with rubber on one end, ball joint on the other. After 30K miles, it's wise to check your suspension every oil change (takes all of 10 minutes). Sloppy steering wheel and Vibration are the instant signals that something is awry.
iSeeYouToo....what year is your car, how many miles, and what specific pieces and parts were replaced? It's good campfire knowledge to share in the thread.
Also, FYI, rubber bushings, when replaced, need to be PRELOADED before they are torqued to Final Spec's. In other words...the weight of the car needs to be on the wheels/tires, as those bushings are torqued. Think about it - one doesn't walk outside into a 40 mph wind holding a kite's string with 2 fingers; the bushing need to be 'marinated' in place, and torqued with weight on wheels, prepared to drive down the road accordingly.
Grabbing your front tires at 12/6 and 3/9, checking for play, while also having someone perform that, as you LOOK at each control arm is key. Using an 18" or longer pry bar to really check balljoints/bushings for play is also key.
As always, when it comes to suspension parts...it's OEM or it's not going in my car.
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donaldmr (04-21-2016)
#7
Drifting
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: City of Champs, MA
Age: 33
Posts: 2,969
Received 657 Likes
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2009 / 102k - Lower ball joints (both sides) replaced with OEM + Upper control arms with ball joints (both sides) replaced with OEM. Mine may have gone bad due to being lowered on coilovers for over a year and now being bagged, which puts a lot of strain on these parts.
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