Strut Replacement
#1
Strut Replacement
Hi-
I am considering replacing the struts on my 1999 TL (with 180,000 miles on it) myself . They have been changed before at around 100K, and recently the car's suspension has been making a low pitch rattling noise over bumps, and my first inclination is that the struts are due for replacement.
I have searched the archives for a step-by-step how-to on the topic, with limited satisfaction. Can anyone suggest a list of parts needed to do this job? I know I'll need replacement strut inserts, but are there bump stops, bushings or other parts I should have on hand while I'm doing the job? I'm not interested in lowering the car, and I'm not looking for anything too sportscar oriented. I'm really just looking to put the car back to spec without spending a lot of money.
Thanks!
TONY
I am considering replacing the struts on my 1999 TL (with 180,000 miles on it) myself . They have been changed before at around 100K, and recently the car's suspension has been making a low pitch rattling noise over bumps, and my first inclination is that the struts are due for replacement.
I have searched the archives for a step-by-step how-to on the topic, with limited satisfaction. Can anyone suggest a list of parts needed to do this job? I know I'll need replacement strut inserts, but are there bump stops, bushings or other parts I should have on hand while I'm doing the job? I'm not interested in lowering the car, and I'm not looking for anything too sportscar oriented. I'm really just looking to put the car back to spec without spending a lot of money.
Thanks!
TONY
#2
check all the ball joints and steering and suspension parts before deciding its the struts
I dont know if 99 are different on struts about inserts, but later years remove back seat to access top bolts of rear shocks for complete assembly removal to work on
fronts are normal struts that slip into a u shaped clamp- that attaches to the lower arm.
lots of places for noise to come from there too- check all
Both require a spring compressor- dangerous job if cheap tool used-
dangerous even with hi dollar tools- often better to take to a shop and let them do the spring and parts swapover- you do the strut remove and install in the car
try a few websites for new parts- struts come with new bump stops and nuts or whatever it needs
I dont know if 99 are different on struts about inserts, but later years remove back seat to access top bolts of rear shocks for complete assembly removal to work on
fronts are normal struts that slip into a u shaped clamp- that attaches to the lower arm.
lots of places for noise to come from there too- check all
Both require a spring compressor- dangerous job if cheap tool used-
dangerous even with hi dollar tools- often better to take to a shop and let them do the spring and parts swapover- you do the strut remove and install in the car
try a few websites for new parts- struts come with new bump stops and nuts or whatever it needs
#3
dont browse the archive- look or search in the DIY section - its been updated and semi organized
#5
Moderator
Struts are an easy job if you have an impact wrench. I haven't replaced struts on a TL before, but I did my Saturn a few weeks ago and it took me less than two hours with a friend.
I rented a strut compressor from autozone and it worked fine. Don't bother attempting the job if you do not own an impact wrench, it's just too time consuming and tiring IMO.
Also, when you replace the struts, be sure to mark the old mount, insulator, coil spring and strut with whiteout. When you install the new strut, be sure to mark the new strut in the same spot as the old one so that you install everything in the same orientation as before.
I rented a strut compressor from autozone and it worked fine. Don't bother attempting the job if you do not own an impact wrench, it's just too time consuming and tiring IMO.
Also, when you replace the struts, be sure to mark the old mount, insulator, coil spring and strut with whiteout. When you install the new strut, be sure to mark the new strut in the same spot as the old one so that you install everything in the same orientation as before.
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