Gen.Eric

Hey guys! Long time no see!

My struts wore out and was wondering if I should go shocks/springs (thinking Koni/HR Race) or instead (was thinking F&F type II or TIENS BASIC) and just install it myself.

Another problem is that I can't find any DIYs for the coilovers =/

I have an approx. $8-900 budget. Plus I have 18" rims so I am worried about rubbing if it goes too low. This is for a DD 2000 TL and I am looking to buy by no later than Friday so I need your help guys!

Lemme know!

jjashaa

iTrader: (23)

Function Form Type I

$580-$650~

just follow the DIY springs for removal of the stock suspension.

reverse for install

V_Langs_3.2TL

^this.

I have the koni/HR combo and while i love it over stock, it is an absolute pain in the ass and with coils you could always redo your height whenever you want

Mr. Maker

iTrader: (4)

i would agree on getting coilovers with your budget..but shock/springs are only a pain in the ass if you don't know what your doing..

03tLsNBP

iTrader: (9)

have to agree with jjasha.

go for F&F Type 1 + camber kit << $800-900

Excelerate

iTrader: (1)

Are you looking to maintain some ride comfort? The FF are a little firmer. The Basics are better suited for a DD b/c the ride comfort is still maintained.

NSXNEXT

iTrader: (2)

And most importantly, whatever you buy, make sure it is from one of our sponsors.

https://acurazine.com/forums/sponsored-sales-group-buys-10/

fsttyms1

And exactly what is a pain in the ass about that combo?

soria

Yea. That made me wonder too.

If you don't plan on changing height; Koni yellows + H&R springs make a great suspension setup. ~$700

02TL4ATL

iTrader: (1)

i think he meant putting them together was a pain in the ass.

fsttyms1

pretty simple in my book.

pickler

well i dunno what your trying to do but if you wanna improve handling you should Soften front dampers or stiffen rear dampers (since this is a FWD). Also install wider tires at the front and narrower at the rear. Anything else you will hurt the handling. also consider the following:

More negative front camber
More positive rear camber
Softer front springs
Stiffer rear springs
Thinner (weaker) front sway bar
Thicker (stronger) rear sway bar
Weight distribuation more rearward
All this information was taken from Neuspeed.

after considering these then pick the brands you like from the parts, there are lots of good ones.

fsttyms1

I would have to disagree with 95% of that. Especially seeing i just came from a lapping day and most every thing i did that day was setup the opposite of that for the fastest most neutral handling.

Tires, all the same size, front dampener was set stiffer than rear, Rebound was also set higher in the front than rear, front camber was set less than the rear, (i had 1/4 toe out set to the front) front spring rates pre determined by H&R and cant control that, front sway larger than oem, rear larger than oem, weight dist is about the only thing i agree with.

If you took that info and applied it to the TL you would wrap your car around a telephone pole the first time you went around a corner If i adjusted my rear shocks any stiffer on the rebound/damp the back end really liked to come out on corners.

Gen.Eric

K. Just bought the Form & Function Type II Coilovers for $899 + FREE Shipping (and warranty/returns) from VEX Motorsports.com since I couldn't find a better price on the forums. Thank you all for your help! I have 18's on the car so it wont go that low. Still deciding whether to go soft or firm after being so used to stock.

pickler

If i were you i would mod it to get the same performance as a CL-S. CL-S does 68 MPH slalom opposed to 62 MPH for stock TL. Again softer front is the key. Just look at why cars are really good at handling for example the NSX has Front springs 3.0 kg/mm stiffness / Rears 4.0 kg/mm.

read on a Sport Compact Car Magazine once about a family sedan (i think it was 2000-2001 Corolla) fitted with TRD suspensions. it managed to pull 70mph at the slalom! thats crazy compared to it's 57 mph stock.

V_Langs_3.2TL

I know to all the more experienced people its not hard...but to people who aren't as mechanically inclined (read: me.) it was very annoying.

I'd say the worst part was the non-adjustability of it. Once it was seated, I wanted it slightly (read: slightly) lower in the front. I couldn't change it. If I had gone with the coilover route, I could have.

Overall I'm happy, but I still think coils are an overall better option. Unless of course you're low on funds and are going the OE strut/Lower Spring method

marcba89

iTrader: (1)

function and form type 1s, i have them and i love it.tires tucking FTW

fsttyms1

You do know that you can adjust the spring perch on the koni 20 mm lower?
Koni SP3. Adjustable has 5 spring perches to allow the perfect height.

V_Langs_3.2TL

^I knew that but I wasn't sure if I could do it without having to take the entire unit out again...

If it is just taking the tire out, then please explain what I need to do! (remember, I'm new to this...) I'd have to be really motivated to remove everything and take the strut/spring unit out again

fsttyms1

No you need to remove the shock and take the load off the spring with spring compressors. Did you ever adjust the rebound on the shock before you installed them (only way to adjust it)

V_Langs_3.2TL

ahh ok yeah I figured as much.

yeah I did some googling and set them in the beginning, I just picked the middle setting.

Thanks for the info, I'll have to do this when I have a free afternoon.