i was wondering if i bought the front ingalls camber kit do i need the controll arms and the ball joit are just the ball joint please help?

 

i have the upper control arm with adjustable ball joint plate. if you just by the ball joints you need to press the old ones out and press the ingalls ball joints in, but will add height to the control arm. id get the whole arm assemble, since its better for clearance, just make sure you go to a specialty alignment shop for adjustment.

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWAX%3AIT this work?

 

yes, those are the same arms i got. make sure the +1 3/4 adjustment is what you need, they also make a one that goes to like +4 i think.

 

What about your rear?

 

i all ready installed them. i thought i could get away with the rear but my front has negative camber.

 

yeah i still need to figure out if i need the
+1° to +4°or the + 1 3/4 HELP??

 

not always because the arm is "wider" then the stock arms, so they hit the strut tower on the sides instead of the top, but then again they are much easier to clearence/grind to make them clear though

 

help?

 

with?






edit: what are your current specs up front for camber?

and iirc i did the +- 1.75 one, since i wanted more adjust ability then to actually get the camber back to zero

 

yeah i still need to figure out if i need the
+1° to +4°or the + 1 3/4 HELP??

 

get you car checked out at an alightment rack, to see how much neg camber your running up front. If its more than -1 3/4 degrees then your going to have to get the +1 to +4. how much are you dropped?

 

can kinda guess on what one will be needed, from kinda knowing how it pulls in with dropping though, but nowhere close to being precise though

 

then how much do you think he is dropped, iv never seen a picture of his car.

if your lowered more than 2 inches you might be getting close to needing the +1 to +4 but the only way to truly know is to get an alignment print out. I have a 2 figure gap up front and -2 to +1 3/4 plate was only able to get me to a -1/2 degrees of camber after adjustment. If you have enough experience you could look at the wheel and guess how many degrees of camber its off by, but if your any lower than me your probably looking at the +1 to +4 plate.

 

quick search provided me with a picture, it looks like your shooting for one figure up front? or less, you might have to get the +1 to +4 plate if your going that low. but first get an alignment readout, and not from a tire and oil place. you need a specialty shop to adjust these upper control arms. they have to raise and lower the front end while its up on the rack, not all places do that. And dont let the tech strip the stupid little allen key hex bolts.

 

with knowing how low he is, you can kinda guess what one is needed, but as said not very precise though, and a printout would be best

don't ask (they still tightened up, but you better have a good bit/key though, or they WILL strip out)


and i did mention it to them when they where using my car for testing the stiffy lol

 

pretty damn low ima go with the +1 +4 thanx for the help bro!

 

i dont know of any specialty shops in tampa havent found a good speed shop the one i use to go to is closed down i was talkin to a guy at southern tire he said he can do it but a bit weary.

 

so after reading this thread... u found that with the ff1s u have way too much camber upfront and now u need to get the camber kit??

cuz i just bought the ff1s also and i got the rear camber kit because i thought i wouldnt need the front one... how low before i need the front camber kit..

 

i had gone to 4 shops before i found one that had a low profile special lifting alignment rack. one shop even told me they could adjust it, and once the got my car on the lift they could not.

the shop must be able to raise and lower the whole front end of the car, or the whole car, not just one side, while it is on the rack otherwise they cant adjust these control arms. they have to do a lot of guess work, and re-aligning putting the car up and down multiple times for adjustment, it took a long time too.

basically take a reading ---> raise car up ----> adjust by loosening bolts and sliding plate ----> tighten bolts----> lower car down ----> take another reading and repeat. the guy who adjusted me prob had to do that a dozen times or so good luck

 

like i, and many of us have said before, you need to get a read out of how much camber you have. then you can decide if you need a kit. if you are any much lower than a 2 figure gap up front, its most likely you need a camber kit. if you have a 1 figure gap or lower there is much better chance you need a camber kit. Camber doenst kill the tires nearly as bad as toe, so its necessary to make sure toe is aligned correctly. you could run with camber out of spec for thousands of miles as long as toe is aligned correctly, of course not forever though.....

 

ahhhhh!! i dont know of any shop that will do that looks like im in some trouble.

 

dumb question.. but what is needed to change the toe alignment?? can it be done with the stock equipment...

 

Toe is adjustable stock, any alignment shop should have no problem adjusting toe.

 

i ended up going to an aamco transmission shop, the last place i expected to find a low profile specialty alignment rack, but they do a lot of special work on lowered cars. and it is the only place in my county that does this kind of work. look around and call up some places, you should be able to find a place or be recommended to one.

 

no you don't if they KNOW the features of the alignment machine

basically you click the "raise up" feature on the machine, raise up the car with the rack's jack, click again, which then makes the readings live again, adjust as necessary, click the "raise up" (or down, depending on how the machine is exactly worded), kinda follow the same procedure going down, then make the readings go live again, and now your camber is all set and done

 

you mean for getting up onto the rack? if so, there is a thing called ramps (to extend the ramps up out further, so the angle getting on is not as steep)

 

i found a reputable shop i found on a local fourms i called them they said they can do this no problem http://www.sandrperformance.com/

 

has anyone ever used the Megan racing camber kit.. my eibach kit is takin forever to get here and these were available, but they are only like $100.. would the difference in price of those to the eibachs prove to be the difference in craftsmanship...

in other words "would i be getting what i am paying for?" cuz i will wait if they suck