Help! F2 Type 1 Coils on, Upper Control Arm hitting
07-25-2011, 08:14 PM
#1
Help! F2 Type 1 Coils on, Upper Control Arm hitting
Hey guys, I recently installed the F2 type I coils and I love them, but the only annoying problem is that everytime I hit a bump or a dip I hear this metal click/light bang noise coming from the front which leads me to believe that it is the Upper Control Arm hitting either the strut tower or the wheel well.
My tires don't rub the fenders at all as a18x8 +45 rim is tucked about 1 finger gap in.
oh btw... I have the Ingalls Camber Upper Control Arm. Would going back to the stock arm give me more clearance? I really want to go about 1 inch lower but whenever I hear this noise I cringe everytime.
So what did you slammed guys do about this problemÉ Did you run Ingalls Camber UCA? or does stock ones give more clearance?
My tires don't rub the fenders at all as a18x8 +45 rim is tucked about 1 finger gap in.
oh btw... I have the Ingalls Camber Upper Control Arm. Would going back to the stock arm give me more clearance? I really want to go about 1 inch lower but whenever I hear this noise I cringe everytime.
So what did you slammed guys do about this problemÉ Did you run Ingalls Camber UCA? or does stock ones give more clearance?
Last edited by VoLLy; 07-25-2011 at 08:17 PM.
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VoLLy (07-26-2011)
07-25-2011, 10:45 PM
#4
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VoLLy (07-26-2011)
07-25-2011, 11:12 PM
#5
i actually have the same issue with clanking on sudden bumps and dips, but I have the oem uca... I re-tightened the bolts, checked for torn ball joints, etc. I'm going to check the perches again :/
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VoLLy (07-26-2011)
07-26-2011, 12:57 AM
#6
I'm really slammed and I only have this issue because I'm too low, Henry(xtremex626) had this issue also but when his preloads were tightened his issue was gone. Tightening the pre-loads just mean a stiffer ride. I just learned to deal with it. But i agree with Tequila, you should definitely check and see if all your nuts and bolts and whatnot is all secured.
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VoLLy (07-26-2011)
07-26-2011, 12:01 PM
#7
Yeah I'm slammed too and have this problem when I hit dips or uneven parts in the road. I had these coils on my Accord before and tightened the preload about half an inch and it helped a lot. The ride feels firmer and sportier now.
But going back to the OEM arms will give you more clearance. got a pic of how low you are?
But going back to the OEM arms will give you more clearance. got a pic of how low you are?
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VoLLy (07-26-2011)
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VoLLy (07-26-2011)
07-26-2011, 12:47 PM
#10
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VoLLy (07-26-2011)
07-26-2011, 01:38 PM
#11
My friend is dropped 3" on his 3G and has no problem with hitting UCA.
BUt again.. If i raise my car up half an inch in the front, I would never hit the UCA... lol
07-26-2011, 07:58 PM
#12
When you 'lived with it' did it damage anything? Or is it just annoying? I mean it doesnt sound too loud (sounds like a click) but I'm afraid it will mess up the UCA or my coils...will it?
thats what I read too.
I'm gonna try to tighten the preloads and lower the front about 0.5-"0.75" moarrr! I can see why some of you guys are addicted to being low.
I'm gonna try to tighten the preloads and lower the front about 0.5-"0.75" moarrr! I can see why some of you guys are addicted to being low.
Last edited by VoLLy; 07-26-2011 at 08:04 PM.
07-26-2011, 10:55 PM
#14
When you 'lived with it' did it damage anything? Or is it just annoying? I mean it doesnt sound too loud (sounds like a click) but I'm afraid it will mess up the UCA or my coils...will it?
thats what I read too.
I'm gonna try to tighten the preloads and lower the front about 0.5-"0.75" moarrr! I can see why some of you guys are addicted to being low.
thats what I read too.
I'm gonna try to tighten the preloads and lower the front about 0.5-"0.75" moarrr! I can see why some of you guys are addicted to being low.
haha yea i feel ya... are the ingalls UCA's necessary ?? how much camber you running up front before/after the UCA swap?
07-26-2011, 11:38 PM
#16
volly, don't worry. it happens to all of us who are slammed/dumped. our strut housing doesn't have enough clearance so every time you hit a bump, your tire hits the UCA, and the UCA hits the top of the strut housing in return.
on the first initial install of the f2 type 1's, i was running half an inch of preload on all sides. this helped with the UCA knocking a bit, but it still would do it no matter what. i couldn't take the stiffness so i put my coils back to 0 load, meaning no load at all the ride was much firmer after.
there's not much we can really do about it. when i was slammed.. it happened to me everyday on every slight little bump but i learned to deal with it. you gotta pay to play as they say! if you think it's really annoying but still want to keep your car at the height you're at, you can drill a hole on top of your strut housing so that the UCA can pass through. it's been done alot especially in the VIP community. that's what i'll probably end up doing on my 2GS.
on the first initial install of the f2 type 1's, i was running half an inch of preload on all sides. this helped with the UCA knocking a bit, but it still would do it no matter what. i couldn't take the stiffness so i put my coils back to 0 load, meaning no load at all the ride was much firmer after.
there's not much we can really do about it. when i was slammed.. it happened to me everyday on every slight little bump but i learned to deal with it. you gotta pay to play as they say! if you think it's really annoying but still want to keep your car at the height you're at, you can drill a hole on top of your strut housing so that the UCA can pass through. it's been done alot especially in the VIP community. that's what i'll probably end up doing on my 2GS.
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VoLLy (07-27-2011)
07-27-2011, 07:34 AM
#18
The Dumb One
iTrader: (1)
That's cause you're a 7th gen... The 7th gen and the 3g TLs have a high strut tower and it doesn't hit as much as the 6g accord and 2g TL.
My friend is dropped 3" on his 3G and has no problem with hitting UCA.
BUt again.. If i raise my car up half an inch in the front, I would never hit the UCA... lol
My friend is dropped 3" on his 3G and has no problem with hitting UCA.
BUt again.. If i raise my car up half an inch in the front, I would never hit the UCA... lol
07-27-2011, 12:48 PM
#19
Instructor
i have the same problem from mine too.. but it only seems to be the passenger side.. my driver side doesnt bang or clack, but my passenger side does it on even the smallest of bumps.. shit sucks, just wish it would go away
07-27-2011, 01:25 PM
#20
2006 Acura TL
I thought I was the only one having this problem. I would hear the knocking sound I'n the front and I took my wheel off and looked under the fender and it seems that the upper arm was hitting the hood on the bottom
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VoLLy (07-27-2011)
07-27-2011, 03:54 PM
#22
Im gonna adjust them next week.
I got the ingalls UCA 2-3 yrs ago because the bad toe chewed up my front tires really fast. Ever since I got them on things had been fine. But now that I don't daily my car, I don't care about camber wear. The alignment shop told me the After was completely straight 0 deg. he didnt tell me the before.
how much did you retighten them? 0.25"?
Yea, i'll try tightening the preloads.
Yes, I read up on 6GA of how to solve the problem...:
I don't really want to mutilate my ride though.
Suprizingly, my driver side bangs much more...and im a slight bit lower on the pass side.
you got F2 coils?
I drive much more careful now. As long as I avoid those big bumps, I should be okay without damaging the coils or LCA?
volly, don't worry. it happens to all of us who are slammed/dumped. our strut housing doesn't have enough clearance so every time you hit a bump, your tire hits the UCA, and the UCA hits the top of the strut housing in return.
on the first initial install of the f2 type 1's, i was running half an inch of preload on all sides. this helped with the UCA knocking a bit, but it still would do it no matter what. i couldn't take the stiffness so i put my coils back to 0 load, meaning no load at all the ride was much firmer after.
there's not much we can really do about it. when i was slammed.. it happened to me everyday on every slight little bump but i learned to deal with it. you gotta pay to play as they say! if you think it's really annoying but still want to keep your car at the height you're at, you can drill a hole on top of your strut housing so that the UCA can pass through. it's been done alot especially in the VIP community. that's what i'll probably end up doing on my 2GS.
on the first initial install of the f2 type 1's, i was running half an inch of preload on all sides. this helped with the UCA knocking a bit, but it still would do it no matter what. i couldn't take the stiffness so i put my coils back to 0 load, meaning no load at all the ride was much firmer after.
there's not much we can really do about it. when i was slammed.. it happened to me everyday on every slight little bump but i learned to deal with it. you gotta pay to play as they say! if you think it's really annoying but still want to keep your car at the height you're at, you can drill a hole on top of your strut housing so that the UCA can pass through. it's been done alot especially in the VIP community. that's what i'll probably end up doing on my 2GS.
Yes, I read up on 6GA of how to solve the problem...:
I don't really want to mutilate my ride though.
I drive much more careful now. As long as I avoid those big bumps, I should be okay without damaging the coils or LCA?
07-27-2011, 04:52 PM
#23
MechEng
iTrader: (9)
wow yeah i dont know how safe it actually is to mess with the body like that. i feel like you lose a lot of strength and stiffness near the shock tower. i think you should at least weld in a piece there that will accommodate the control arm, not just leave it a gaping hole. the hole will lead to a dirtier engine bay as well.
Last edited by 03tLsNBP; 07-27-2011 at 04:55 PM.
07-27-2011, 06:02 PM
#26
with a hole that big, probably not safe. you'll probably lose some structural strength. i don't think it'll affect it much on the daily, but say if you get into an accident.. who knows what youre asking for.
i've also seen people covering up the holes by welding a box that fits the hole. looks legit it all depends on the person.
i've also seen people covering up the holes by welding a box that fits the hole. looks legit it all depends on the person.
im sure there are safer ways to do it though
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VoLLy (07-28-2011)
07-28-2011, 09:38 PM
#31
oh man today I think I messed up my preloads on my rears big time! When the car is jacked up the spring sits on the bottom slouching onto one side, I think I adjusted the wrong thing. My rear bounces all over the place now.
Would any of you happen to have the preload measurements from the top of the first upper perch to the first thread up to top on the coilover as shown in the second picture?
I took these pics prior to installing them but they don't really help much in terms of getting the preload dead on:
Measurements don't have to be accurate but I need roughly how many cms I need to put the spring back up!
Would any of you happen to have the preload measurements from the top of the first upper perch to the first thread up to top on the coilover as shown in the second picture?
I took these pics prior to installing them but they don't really help much in terms of getting the preload dead on:
Measurements don't have to be accurate but I need roughly how many cms I need to put the spring back up!
Last edited by VoLLy; 07-28-2011 at 09:48 PM.
11-27-2011, 05:26 PM
#32
Cruisin'
Join Date: Nov 2011
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^ hey volly this link should help you ..hope it helps?
http://www.f2autolife.com/technical-tips-and-how-tos
http://www.f2autolife.com/technical-tips-and-how-tos
11-27-2011, 07:43 PM
#34
Cruisin'
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^ im cutting top of strut tower to eliminate the problem HOPE it gets better..also i max out and hit my frame /oil pan area im on ff type 1s need help plz
*★*************BUMP★*************
*★*************BUMP★*************
raise your car if you dont want to scrape frame.
11-27-2011, 07:57 PM
#36
Cruisin'
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Im not that low,its just that uca is banging against the strut tower and i dont know why i max out and hit my frame againt uneven roads/pot wholes is it because uca isnt getting enough clearence/movment?
Question 2 ) when i do cut the strut tower will the maxing out go away is it caused by the uca?
Question 2 ) when i do cut the strut tower will the maxing out go away is it caused by the uca?
11-27-2011, 08:12 PM
#38
MechEng
iTrader: (9)
Im not that low,its just that uca is banging against the strut tower and i dont know why i max out and hit my frame againt uneven roads/pot wholes is it because uca isnt getting enough clearence/movment?
Question 2 ) when i do cut the strut tower will the maxing out go away is it caused by the uca?
Question 2 ) when i do cut the strut tower will the maxing out go away is it caused by the uca?
2. The "maxing out" will get worse because the UCA has more room to pivot upwards, thus making the car effectively even lower when the suspension is under load.