ZEUS'O3TL

yes.......as long as their from a 2nd Gen CL

ACURA`TL`TYPE-$

Btw My friend told me that you have to tighten some of the lugs and bolts by a sertain amount of pounds of pressure. He got a 02 maxima does this imply to our cars too?
suposably its better or something like that? anyone know anything about that?

twistedwedge

lugs, meaning wheel lug nuts? You should tighten all the lug nuts equally with a final tightening sequence in a star pattern (not clockwise or counter clockwise) to 80 lbs using a torque wrench. Car should be on the ground as well.

ACURA`TL`TYPE-$

Lol no no no, what I ment is when you tighten the suspension back to the car do you need to use a torque wrench to apply different amounts of pressure to different bolts? (does that make sense?)

tegkid

iTrader: (7)

youre probably supposed to but i know i just tightened them like i would any other lug.

twistedwedge

LOL..ok..I was starting to say..

Just tighten them up about as much as you can using a wrench or ratchet, and then a little more. No need for torque wrench, although as tegkid said Im sure there is specs for each and every nut/bolt. If using air tools I wouldnt whale on the bolts/nuts or anything-I know my 1/2 drive impact torques to well over 200 ft/lbs

Bearcat94

Torque Wrench is a free loaner at AutoZone, etc.

I tighten everything I can to torque spec if I've got it. If not, I'll tighten to the 3G spec for the same part.

Some parts are spec'd a little tighter or a little looser than others for a reason.

IntenseMX

How much did it cost you to have it done at the shop?

fsttyms1

You should ALWAYS use a torque wrench. Dont tighten them up as much as you can then a little more. If you were to do that you would be going WAY over torque spec!

ACURA`TL`TYPE-$

where can I get the torque specs?

twistedwedge

oh come on...I guess I should have stated that Ive worked on cars for a LONG time and I have a feel for tightening things. I always use a torque wrench for sensitive things such as rod bolt caps, head bolts, etc...


Never had any problems...

ACURA`TL`TYPE-$

so does any one know the specs?

Bearcat94

This is for the 3G Susp. ALMOST identical to the 2G in many areas. If you can't find a 2G manual or scans and worse comes to worst, I'd use this as a guide/approximation:

https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-problems-fixes-114/torque-spec-shock-assembly-3g-garage-d-091-a-633039/

jwelzenb

Thanks to TALizaS3.2. Just did some overdue maintenance on TL. This post helped out with the OEM strut replacement that I've been putting off most of the winter. It took about six hours, but part of that was a mistake on my part. I also did a brake pad upgrade (I hope) to ProStop Ceramic Pads ( PepBoys didn't have EBC in stock), then painted the Calipers. Feels much more sure footed now.

myTaLizaS3.2

Haven't looked at this in forever, but i'm glad this helped people out, or at least gave them an idea of how it's done. I'm sure there's things i could have done better, but you guys get the point.

juanclopez2786

iTrader: (3)

just to let you guys know REAR springs in the tl and accord do not need to be compressed with a spring compressor. you can simply just hold the strut standing up and have someone take the 14 off the top. ive done a ton of rear struts on accords when i worked at the honda dealer and thats how we used to do them. theres not enough tension for it to pop up and hit you. when i lower my car ill try makin a video to post up for you guys.

ZEUS'O3TL

^you still gotta be careful though....since our cars are a lil older now, the springs might of settled and built up tension

juanclopez2786

iTrader: (3)

^ the older they get the more they sag so thats not true. they'll actually lose tension.

twistedwedge

Its not recommended, but you can do all four without a compressor...ask josh..

I did both my rear springs without one.

For the everyday DIY'er I would highly recommend a spring compressor though..

Neejay

iTrader: (3)

I compressed the rear just a little. It took a A LOT less than the front.

Also, I just read the torque specs from the 3G. I torqued the front and rear LCA bolt nut to 60 lbs/ft. Is that too much over spec? The 3G says it should be 47lbs/ft.

ESank

This is a great DIY. Thanks to the writer. Did any of you guys have to get your front end re-aligned after this? I know it's usually recommended when putting on new struts, just wondering if any of you had a problem with this.

jjashaa

iTrader: (23)

LOL!.. i actually didn't use a spring compressor...

crazy me... had the top part of the supension facing a wall.. then the rear i had it wedged into bricks.. against the other wall.. then i started too take off the nut and KAPLOW!.. came loose without having everything shoot out everywhere.

was fun. rear.. eh.. i just unbolted it with the thing on the ground pointing anywhere..

kidduce

iTrader: (1)

^^ haha

myTaLizaS3.2

you guys are crazy!. haha. watever works

BlacknBlueJ32

Yo, this was the most helpful DIY ive seen yet, it made me realize how easy it is to lower a TL.....Thanks Bro

cisgwaping

NEED ADVICE...

I just had a small shop install my eibach pro kit on my 03 TL-S. The end result was two finger gap from fender to tire for the FRONT and only 1 finger gap for the REAR. Is this correct? Doest eibach springs suppose to lower the fronts more since specs say it lower 2.1 inches front and 1.6 rear? Seems that the rubber bump stops in the front were not trimmed and for the rear, 3 layers out of the five in the picture of the OP was cut off from the bottom which is more than 2 inches. Eibach instructs to just cut off 30mm for rubber stops. Is this something I need to worry about and should I bring back my car to the shop and have this fixed?

twistedwedge

Thats the gap I have on my ride with the pros as well..about 1.5 fingers front and 1 in the back. It messes with you because the fender opening is larger (comes up higher) in the front, when in all actuality the car is lower in the front than the back.

Take a measurement from the ground to bottom of the car-I got (without a lip kit) ~7 inches from ground to bottom of both L&R sides of the front bumper and ~11 inches from ground to bottom of both L&R sides of the rear. (Basically took a measurement from all four corners).

cisgwaping

Mine has a lip kit so i dont think we can compare measurements. im thinking maybe they put the wrong springs in the wrong place. zeus03tl that has eibachs too said that his gaps are even all around... i believe he has oem shock on too. did yours took time to settle? i was told to wait 2 weeks for springs to settle and maybe front gaps will decrease...

ZEUS'O3TL

Post a pic so we can see how it looks

FlacoJ

I didn’t have to remove my seats because I could figure out how, I just removed the bose sub cover and the felt rear deck covering, accessed the upper bolts with an extension with ease

n1njai

iTrader: (3)

Your gaps are correct, i've gone through a lot of suspension types on my TL and that's how it usually is. The front has more finger gaps than the rears, probably because they wanted more wheel gap in the front for the engine weight or something.

myTaLizaS3.2

This thread still going strong huh? I'm going to make another one for the 3G when I do come around to do it. = ]

Cross Bronx

Great write up. I lowered my TL some weeks ago but did not change the shocks. That was real dum on my part, a week later I had to do it all over again last weekend. It was not that bad but took Four and a half hours.

PIC

You... Are... GOD! thanks so much.

myTaLizaS3.2

Aww man, I miss this car.

kidduce

iTrader: (1)

Wow, og right here.

Yeah, according to your signature, your ok.

Stradia

Hey, thanks for the DIY!. I just ordered my new struts - front and rear - to do this job on my '02 TL. But I got the fronts with the springs already on them. I figured at 168,000 miles, why not replace them too.

I like your wheels. What are they?

Peace!

02TL_S

Fixed it for you. I'm a master tech so very experienced and you should NEVER do this, with smaller 6" 7" coilovers springs you can since the spring isn't under much tension but a lowering or stock spring is under heavy load, I have seen a spring shoot 30ft across the shop and smash through a brick wall, and a good friend of mine almost lost his life when the compressor slipped off and it took a chunk out of his forehead, crushed his skull and was in a coma for 2 months. Do it right or not at all.

With the right equipment swapping fronts and rears should take no longer than 1.5 hrs tops

TEgo821

awesome

Mattila-The-Hun

thanks!!