Weird Voltage Issue
#1
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Weird Voltage Issue
Ok guys i need your help. I have a big stereo in the car as most of you know. Now typically in car stereo world they say to turn your air off if your getting low voltage cause the drain on the car. But my car is the opposite. I turn my air off and the voltage plumits on the meter. I turn the air on and it shoots right back up where it suppose to be.
My thoughts are that turning the air on is kicking on a van and raising the voltage. I think this is a problem from a preview problem that was never really fixed. I think the fan on the left side that is suppose to be on most of the time isnt. I read before that it could be caused by a simple relay somewhere on the lower part of the radiator making the fan not work.
All other opinions welcome. Just doing some maintance on the system and with this cold weather out i dont want to have to ride around with the air on for no reason.
Thanks for the help!
My thoughts are that turning the air on is kicking on a van and raising the voltage. I think this is a problem from a preview problem that was never really fixed. I think the fan on the left side that is suppose to be on most of the time isnt. I read before that it could be caused by a simple relay somewhere on the lower part of the radiator making the fan not work.
All other opinions welcome. Just doing some maintance on the system and with this cold weather out i dont want to have to ride around with the air on for no reason.
Thanks for the help!
#3
the radiator cooling fan is the driver side one and should run on and off occassionally
The passenger side fan is tied to the AC `on` and in times of extreme cooling needs
The fan temp sensor is located at the thermostat housing or at the bottem right (passenger) side of radiator
When that goes out normally-- the driver fan runs and runs and runs after you turn the key off
How is the ground connection for stereo in the trunk?- under spare tire
Have a parts store run a system test to se if alt and voltage regulators are working right
Big amp may have eaten a small part along the line
The passenger side fan is tied to the AC `on` and in times of extreme cooling needs
The fan temp sensor is located at the thermostat housing or at the bottem right (passenger) side of radiator
When that goes out normally-- the driver fan runs and runs and runs after you turn the key off
How is the ground connection for stereo in the trunk?- under spare tire
Have a parts store run a system test to se if alt and voltage regulators are working right
Big amp may have eaten a small part along the line
#4
B A N N E D
iTrader: (4)
the radiator cooling fan is the driver side one and should run on and off occassionally
The passenger side fan is tied to the AC `on` and in times of extreme cooling needs
The fan temp sensor is located at the thermostat housing or at the bottem right (passenger) side of radiator
When that goes out normally-- the driver fan runs and runs and runs after you turn the key off
How is the ground connection for stereo in the trunk?- under spare tire
Have a parts store run a system test to se if alt and voltage regulators are working right
Big amp may have eaten a small part along the line
The passenger side fan is tied to the AC `on` and in times of extreme cooling needs
The fan temp sensor is located at the thermostat housing or at the bottem right (passenger) side of radiator
When that goes out normally-- the driver fan runs and runs and runs after you turn the key off
How is the ground connection for stereo in the trunk?- under spare tire
Have a parts store run a system test to se if alt and voltage regulators are working right
Big amp may have eaten a small part along the line
and check the connections for corroided and loose terminals and such,
also as you say you have a big stereo, so it may have been drawing too much power continuisly (sp?), which basically burned out the alternater/regulater over time
#5
When you say "plummets" what voltages are we talking about.
When you are drawing less total power, the alternator is not kicking in as frequently and so peek voltage maybe closer to, but higher than the 12Volt battery voltage, but under heavy load the alternator is putting out full voltage of closer to 14-15 volts. I don't see how it can affect the stereo performance which has its own internal voltage controller.
If you have an accurate voltmeter, check the voltages with car under no power usage and with full power usage.
My take is as long as the voltage you are getting to the stereo is greater than the no power 12 volt battery value, you don't have to shut down the A/C since that indicates that the alternator is delivering more power than the load , and, therefore there is no danger of draining the battery.
When you are drawing less total power, the alternator is not kicking in as frequently and so peek voltage maybe closer to, but higher than the 12Volt battery voltage, but under heavy load the alternator is putting out full voltage of closer to 14-15 volts. I don't see how it can affect the stereo performance which has its own internal voltage controller.
If you have an accurate voltmeter, check the voltages with car under no power usage and with full power usage.
My take is as long as the voltage you are getting to the stereo is greater than the no power 12 volt battery value, you don't have to shut down the A/C since that indicates that the alternator is delivering more power than the load , and, therefore there is no danger of draining the battery.
#6
B A N N E D
iTrader: (4)
When you say "plummets" what voltages are we talking about.
When you are drawing less total power, the alternator is not kicking in as frequently and so peek voltage maybe closer to, but higher than the 12Volt battery voltage, but under heavy load the alternator is putting out full voltage of closer to 14-15 volts. I don't see how it can affect the stereo performance which has its own internal voltage controller.
If you have an accurate voltmeter, check the voltages with car under no power usage and with full power usage.
My take is as long as the voltage you are getting to the stereo is greater than the no power 12 volt battery value, you don't have to shut down the A/C since that indicates that the alternator is delivering more power than the load , and, therefore there is no danger of draining the battery.
When you are drawing less total power, the alternator is not kicking in as frequently and so peek voltage maybe closer to, but higher than the 12Volt battery voltage, but under heavy load the alternator is putting out full voltage of closer to 14-15 volts. I don't see how it can affect the stereo performance which has its own internal voltage controller.
If you have an accurate voltmeter, check the voltages with car under no power usage and with full power usage.
My take is as long as the voltage you are getting to the stereo is greater than the no power 12 volt battery value, you don't have to shut down the A/C since that indicates that the alternator is delivering more power than the load , and, therefore there is no danger of draining the battery.
and the alternater switching on and off , it is continious (sp?), it just does not apply as much field voltage to the coil (trying to remember exact names , and explain), and yes it does need a small charge in order to excite the coil
and if it was switching on and off, we would be talking about milliseconds here not seconds, and the battery will dampen any minor voltage fluctiations anyways
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