BigSaveDave

Hi everyone-

As the title says, I am going to be doing a transmission fluid change. My transmission was swapped out at about 100k miles ago and I haven't had any real problems with stuttering or jerking. I attribute that to driving in the select-shift mode 100% of the time (except reverse, obviously). The DIY link takes me to a weird forum post with the correct title but the links on the 2nd reply are weird. I'll be taking pictures while I'm doing it and thought I could maybe make the new DIY thread. Before doing that, I wanted to check my step-by-step procedure as this is my first attempt at this.

The following equipment is needed:

• 24 mm crush washer for the fill plug(?).
• 18mm crush washer for the drain plug.
• 17mm socket for the drain and fill plug.
• 3 qt of Honda DW-1 if doing a 1x3 Drain and Fill (D&F), up to 9qt if doing a full 3x3 D&F.
• Pan to catch fluid.
• Transmission fluid filter (I'm not sure about the transmission fluid filters, I haven't seen anything about them on the various posts except that they might need changing)

Procedure is as follows:
1. Use 17mm Socket to remove the ATF fill plug. This could be made more difficult if you have the Jet Kit installed from the recall.
2. Place pan under drain plug.
3. Use same 17mm socket to remove drain plug. (Is this where everyone says the black sludge accumulates?)
4. Once fluid is drained, attach new 18mm crush washer to the drain hole.
5. Using 17mm socket, tighten drain plug to 29 ft/lbs of torque.
6. Pour 3qt of DW-1 into the full plug. (Another slower, but perhaps easier way if having difficulties with fill plug is through the dip stick hole)
7. Attach 24mm crush washer to the fill hole
8. Using 17mm socket tighten fill plug bolt on top of the crush washer to a torque of 29 ft/lb
9. Dispose of oil in a safe way.

Does this look correct? Are my required tools/materials complete?
Some of the questions I am unsure about:

• Where exactly is the filter and how do I replace it?
• Where/On What is this black sludge located that needs to be wiped off?
• Are the crush washer sizes correct? I only saw them in one spot.

Thanks for being a great resource for all things 2nd Gen TL.

Dave

BigSaveDave

I can't figure out how to edit.. soooo a couple of corrections I found:

1. The fill plug doesn't need a crush washer.
2. You actually use the 3/8" ratchet to loosen the drain plug. The bolt itself receives the 3/8" square nub from the ratchet. The black sludge is actually on this bolt, you just wipe it off.
3. The Transmission Filter is internal to the Transmission - no changing it.

01acls

The fill plug does have a crush wash and I wouldn't replace it. Also no need to over tighten the fill bolt.

There is an external trans filter. It's hanging of the end of the trans on the left side next to the left frame rail. The filter is black in color and it looks like a miniture spin on filter. Small enough to fit in your hand.

As preventive trans maintenance you might want to a XADO AT EX120. It will tune up the trans.

frankjnjr

(1.) The fill plug does need a crush washer, it's just not normally necessary to replace it with a new one. (2) The drain bolt has a magnet attached to the inside end. It may be a good idea to examine the "black sludge" closely, in order to determine if any metal particles are present. The size of the particles may give you an indication of the general condition of the internal parts of the transmission. Most particles "black sludge" accumulated around the magnet are almost too tiny to even see. Large particles, and or small metal shavings, which can be easily seen, would be an indation of potential internal problems. (3) As 01acls pointed out, this transmission has both internal and external filters. The internal filter is not serviceable without removing the transmission. The external filter is easily serviced. Many Acura parts people are not aware of the external filter, and many of those that are, advise that their technicians never change them.

wng

One thing that would make refilling much easier for those with an oil jet kit would be to refill using the dip tube instead of the normal fill hole. Even if you don't have an oil jet kit, it makes things *slightly* easier because it's one less ratchet to find in your toolbox and one less crush washer to buy (although you could probably reuse it a few times), especially if you're doing a 3X drain and fill.

Rather than a normal funnel, I cut open the bottom end of a condiment bottle, like the kind that hold mustard and ketchup at a hot dog stand and refill it that way. I find that works better than a normal funnel because the opening is a bit deep and the dip tube quite narrow, so the condiment bottle fits in there quite well. Just watch out that you don't fill it too quickly and it overflows out the top of the dip tube.

SuperGreg

I know people like to refer to it as the 3x3, but the service manual calls for 4 drain/fills.

frankjnjr

Good point SuperGreg, owned my 03 TLS for 3 years, performed three 3X3 drain and refils prior to learning the correct method is actually four repetitions, not three. Transmission still performing well at 232K.

BigSaveDave

Whats the time saving difference on this? I'm imagining it takes hours for the quarts to drain into the dipstick and constant refilling of the funnel. Is this accurate?

Chojun

Yes consensus is that it takes much longer to refill via the dipstick tube. Just remove the oil jet inlet and fill through there like normal. It's really not that hard to do.

Also, I just have to say that a 3x3 changes statistically something like 92% of the fluid in your transmission. A 4x3 would bring that up to like 99%. Just do a 3x3 and then a 1x3 every time your oil is changed and you'll have cherry red fluid for the rest of your life.

BigSaveDave

I debated doing more than just a 1x3, but my fluid hasn't been changed in over 6 year since I got the transmission replaced in '11. My plan is to do the 1x3 now and every oil change I will do it again until 9k miles from now I will switch it all out with a 3x3 (maybe 4x3).

I did an oil change yesterday and was looking for the Transmission fluid fill plug, but I couldn't find it. Everything is so worn and slightly coated with a white residue (corrosion?) I couldnt find the blue bolt ot the bolt that says ATF on it. Any pictures around that show where it is?

BalljointFrank

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Trans fill plug -17mm bolt - is in rear drivers side - it's shown at 3:35 of this video - It's very difficult to remove - most just refill trans fluid through dipstick tube
See post above by wng - I use a small funnel in the dipstick tube and a larger funnel into that
Pour slowly and takes about 5 minutes to put in 3 quarts.

Chojun

When I removed mine it wasn't difficult at all. If you're trying to put the ratchet w/ socket directly on the bolt then maybe you'd have trouble because of how little space you have down there. However I used a couple of socket extensions and breaker and it came right off.

BalljointFrank

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I guess it depends on the car. I used two 6" extenders, ratchet, breaker bar, even a torque wrench with breaker bar and the damn bolt wouldn't budge.
I'll give it another shot this weekend - got 3 more quarts to put in.

SuperGreg

I'm not sure how you use a torque wrench with a breaker bar, do you mean like a cheater bar to give you more leverage? I never use a torque wrench to remove bolts. You need a good 1/2" breaker bar with a long handle, and 1/2" extensions. Trying to use 3/8" components is going to result in too much flex if the bolt is really stuck. Then push/pull on each side of the breaker bar. I've busted my knuckles before when it came loose suddenly, that bolt can be a real PITA.

frankjnjr

The transmission fill bolt on my car is always very very tight, even though, when tightening it after a drain and refill, I only just "snug" it up. It seems to somehow (self tighten), and the next time I service the transmission, it takes a serious amount of torque to loosen it again. It's almost to the point that one would think the 3/8 ratchet is going to break, or the filler bolt head is going to snap off! I don't understand why this happens, but it does, at least on my car. When installing the drain plug, I torque it to spec, however, when i loosen it, at the next service interval, it seems to require considerably more torque to force it loose, just like the fill plug. Both plugs, on my car, require the use of a (12" cheater bar) on the end of the ratchet, to provide enough force to loosen the plugs!

murky

I've experienced the same thing with the filler bolt. The first time I figured the shop cranked it on. But I torque it to spec and it is difficult the remove. The drain plug isn't so bad.