THUMPING INTO Reverse
 

ok so i have used the search button for this and really didnt find a good answer for my problem

I HAVE A FEW PROBLEMS:

1- when im in Drive and i switch to reverse it like thumps into reverse instead of switching smoothley----AND-- also from drive to reverse same thing-it like thumpes-----could this be a motor mount or the tranny ????

2- i called the 1 800 # and gave them my VIN and they said my tranny was replaced on 6/28/06 ----now i read on here sumwhere that theres 2 different types of trannys----
a PRE and POST
what does this mean for me if mine was replaced on 6/28/06

and please give me specifics if possible

THANKS IN ADVANCE GUYS

approx feb 2005 there was a change made to the actual case the trans lives inside
you have the improved POST 2/05 unit with the external oil jet kit that was installed under recall- thats moved inside the case on post 05 units
It also means its ok to change you atf fluid, there are not 100kmiles on it~

could be motor mounts,,vac boosted models also get a mystery vac leak with that!!
ck those and ck atf level and condition of fluid
whats the prob in other thread about your car? related? not driven recently?

trans prob in R is usually a SLAM or very delayed engage--
but its better if you let the car warm up for 2 minutes so idle drops- then it goes into R easily- or easier

i let my car warm up for at least 15 mins everyday i drive it---even in the hot ass summer---thats just how i am

i baby my shit man !!!
IM DEATHLEY AFRAID ABOUT THE TRANNY GOIN !!

but im saying----when im out driving around for a while---and i wanna go in reverse---it like slams into Reverse---same thing goin bak into Drive----just not as hard

and i wanna change the trans fluid---wasnt sure though--wanted to check about the PRE and POST---THANKS FOR THAT !!!

HOW DO I CHECK THE MOTOR MOUNTS ???

whats yer opion on the slamming into gear

thanks man

Check the mounts. They will often give the hard into gear symptoms.

Have someone start the car put it into gear while FIRMLY holding the brake slowly give it gas, while they are doing that you stand to the side of the car (for obvious reasons i shouldnt have to tell you for) and look to see if you see the motor lift up or move more than 1/2 to 1 inch. If so mounts are shot. You should also inspect the side for leaking and tearing and the front for leaking as well. Also if you have access to a vacuum gauge vac test them and see if they hold vac.

Its your front most motor mount.
Mine does the exact same thing - i plan on getting it replaced soon.

front broken = clunk from drive to reverse (but fine from park to reverse)
back broken = clunk from reverse/park into drive

YEP-----same EXACT as yers man !!!

it fuckin sucks so bad

so what i do is wait a few seconds to switch gear when i wanna go from Drive to Reverse and so on.....

so how much are these mounts and are they hard to install or what ???

THANKS FOR THE INPUT GUYS !!!!!

get it from our sponsoring dealers for 85 bucks- retail 120-150 each for front and rear that have the vac boost system

our DIY section is your new best friend!!! easy to do the front with basic tools
save to favorites: https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-tl-1999-2003-98/new-official-2nd-gen-tl-diy-thread-706083/

STOP!!! letting it sit warming up more than 1-2 minutes- seriously- thats all it wants and then it needs to get moving - the ecu is set for that- motion makes heat develope and spread thru the engine, so the fuel system can get to lean running mode and good mileage/low emission settings

You are not doing the car any favors now

if i start my car and let it run for 2 mins---then put it in drive and start driving it---when it switches gears it feels like theres a pause or sumthing like that---like it takes longer to switch gears

and if i let it warm up for a couple more mins rather than 1-2 mins like you said it switches gears more smoother and feels better

but thanks for the advice

the rear motor mount is a pain to change out, front and side mounts easy in comparison. I had a reverse thud, ended up replacing front and rear mounts and it was gone there after.

The ECU is programmed to shift differently when the car is cold.

personally---i just feel better and safer letting my car warm up for a couple mins and then drive it

but what do ya mean its programmed different ??

whats the difference involve ??

it holds the rpm slightly higher and longer till shift from 1-2 gear when cold.
that helps heat the engine faster via actual running combustion in the chambers.
idle and 2000-2500 are way different for heat making
start driving and see how soon the temp comes up

normally if your trans is having trouble into R, wait 2 minutes instead of the normal 1 and drive
your extra 2 minutes is allowing the line pressure to lower even more as the atf warms, and allow the shift

replace that motor mount so the vac leak goes away- that affects shifting too
And change out 3 qts of atf,,, see how it likes R then
Clean the selenoids- those do the shifting impulse

15 minutes sitting at idle was my concern for you
running electronics at idle takes power- that needs to be recharged into the battery by driving 15-30 minutes

cool---thanks for input guys

im gonna get those mounts changed ASAP !!!
and change the ATF fluid as well


appreciate the help

with all the mods listed for your car- we want to see it on the road!!!

it is on the road man--i took it outta storage last month and have been driving it ever since

i just got my brand new rims in yesterday and put them on---18x8 wit a +38 offset running 225/40/18

3rd set of rims in 8 months

this is the look ive been looking for my car for a while now--im set wit these rims--and really happy how it looks now !!!!

uploading pics to my profile right now---since i dont understand how to post them in a trend--take a look if ya want