Rusted leaking fuel line
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Rusted leaking fuel line
Anyone have their fuel line rot out where it attaches to the firewall? Darn road salt. My main line from the gas tank corroded thru right at the attachment point. It's line #20 in the diagram. Doesn't look too terrible to change out but is $105. I am going to attempt to cut out the rotted piece and put in a small section of fuel injection hose 30r9 with some fuel inj hose clamps. Anyone else try this before?
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#2
I have no idea what goes in on that splitter, is it possible to replace???
or everything around it is rusty and kaput?
I would be very very careful about using FI hose and FI clamps = even assuming HIGH pressure rated at what the TL pump puts out- I don't have that pressure #
A spraying fuel line in engine compartment can make a fire like nobody's business
where are our rust gurus?? kris- who else lives in the salt belt??
or everything around it is rusty and kaput?
I would be very very careful about using FI hose and FI clamps = even assuming HIGH pressure rated at what the TL pump puts out- I don't have that pressure #
A spraying fuel line in engine compartment can make a fire like nobody's business
where are our rust gurus?? kris- who else lives in the salt belt??
#3
Captain Obvious has consulted with Captain Hindsight and suggest all members who experience snow and road salt- or drive the TL on the beach (covering all bases)
Bust out the garden hose, or car wash if that's your only option, and use a soft spray of fresh water thru and under the engine compartment , suspension steering and all areas you can get wet- flood them GENTLY
Carry WD40!!
I had a sand-capable jeep way back in time,, and every 1 hour beach buzz took 2 hours water rinsing to get all the sand out of her cracks!
Bust out the garden hose, or car wash if that's your only option, and use a soft spray of fresh water thru and under the engine compartment , suspension steering and all areas you can get wet- flood them GENTLY
Carry WD40!!
I had a sand-capable jeep way back in time,, and every 1 hour beach buzz took 2 hours water rinsing to get all the sand out of her cracks!
#4
If you use high pressure fuel injection hose, you have to put a small "bubble" on the steel line so the rubber hose cant pull off. We use a double flaring tool, and just do the first step partially. You could also use compression fittings, and splice in some steel line. 5/16" fittings will usually work on our 8mm fuel lines. Also check at a good auto supply. There are companies that specialize in brake and fuel line repair pieces. S.u.r.&r. is one that comes to mind.
#5
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Thanks for the replies. I believe the pressure is 40psi. So checked with the local dealer and it would take a few days to receive a new line. So in the meantime I gave the repair a go. Bought a $7 mini pipe cutter. I agree a small lip on each end of the cut metal line would be a good idea however the 5/16in fuel inj hose was quite difficult to get on the metal lines as it was. They are a very snug fit. I used two fuel inj hose clamps on each side. Ran the car and drove it for a bit and all is dry. I'll probably order a new line and install but the hr or so it took to do this I figured I would see how it held.
True though that if you drive where they salt for sure check this area out. When I removed the clamp and rubber insulator, there was also sand falling out. It is a trap for moisture and sand and salt. The main file line was the only one rusted but it was rusted pretty decently. And I am the one who always is out washing my car and hosing all under the undercarriage when it's 34 deg out. But this area I suppose you don't think about.
Repair:
True though that if you drive where they salt for sure check this area out. When I removed the clamp and rubber insulator, there was also sand falling out. It is a trap for moisture and sand and salt. The main file line was the only one rusted but it was rusted pretty decently. And I am the one who always is out washing my car and hosing all under the undercarriage when it's 34 deg out. But this area I suppose you don't think about.
Repair:
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Last edited by MarcDavidoff; 03-19-2015 at 06:39 PM.
#6
that came out much better than I had imagined! I would drive it like that.
note: I also carry a fire bottle and full coverage insurance
Nice to see quality inventive DIY work~
note: I also carry a fire bottle and full coverage insurance
Nice to see quality inventive DIY work~
#7
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Thanks! Did come out better than I was expecting. Funny, I did put a fire extinguisher in the trunk this morning.
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#9
Pro
I did the same exact fix on mine regarding the rusted line, two years later absolutely no leaks and there will be no leaks. Its up to you if you want to get a new metal line but if you trust your work you should have no worries.
#10
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I am thinking it should be ok. I'm going to hold off for now on getting a new line and keep a close eye on it.
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