watster9

Ok so I just replaced my knock sensor which was a pain to get to. I broke that little L bracket under the fuel injector that seems like a vacuum hose? But I fixed it with jb weld. I don't think that is my problem though.

I put it all back together and I changed the oil and buttoned it all up. the CEL light is off and it is running great/ (when I say running great I mean the internals of the engine sound great)

My problem is when it is in park, and all other gears (scary when in drive) the RPM surges and there is a constant high pitch whistling coming from the AC compressor side. when I put it in to all the other gears the throttle almost gets violent and I immediately turn off the car.

THis problem might be resolved elsewhere and please excuse me for not looking yet, but I have had the busiest weekend ever and I am absolutely beat.

I really, really need some help with this, its our only car. I was getting it ready for my fiance to drive around when I am at work, because I am getting a company truck this week.

If you need I can take a video of what it is doing.

assclown

iTrader: (1)

A video would certainly help. I had a nasty rpm surge last summer, damn near replaced everything before realizing it was a wiring issue. Did you plug everything back in? Have you checked all your vacuum lines?

fsttyms1

You have a vacuum leak. I would start with the JB weld fix.

3.2TLc

Yeah, ^^^^ as these guys say, re-check your work. Chances are that it's something simple, so just take your time and it'll work out !

watster9

cool thank you gentlemen. i am going to tear into it shortly, i will post a picture of what i had to rig up. i appreciate the quick responses!

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

Most likely the whistling noise is coming from a vac leak.
And if it's whistling ,it's coming from a manifold,plenum,throttle body gasket leak or cracked lower runners.

Was you having the rough idle before the knock sensor replacement ?
Some people have installed there manifold cover gasket wrong so it blocks the ports and causes rough idling and stumbling.
Check that gasket then retighten manifold to lower runner bolts to 16lbs cover to 10lbs. See if the noise and rough idle goes away.
Some people also over tighten the bolts from the manifold to lower runners to tight and crack the lower runners wich will cause vac leak,surging idle too.

Re check your work first.
including your repaired area.

watster9

No my car ran beautifully before I had to get emissions done. which I had to replace the knock sensor to get the CE light off. I have been too busy with work and bad weather to get to it, but I got off early today so I am going to post a video in a couple minutes, then tear into it. thanks again


Also that "L" bracket I told you about was actually more like a vacuum elbow and it connects to a plastic mounting plate? ill try and take a picture. wish me luck

watster9

Here is a link to the car running

watster9

This is a bad picture, but here is what I think might be broken, I have no idea what to call it to order a replacement, can you help ID it please?[IMG]<a href="http://imgur.com/fgfO4A2"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/fgfO4A2.jpg" alt="" title="Hosted by imgur.com" /></a>[/IMG]

watster9

[IMG][/IMG]

assclown

iTrader: (1)

I have no idea what that is. It's been a while since I've been under the plenum. Is that part of the wiring harness?

watster9

No, that was a bad picture, i think its a breather hose that goes into the lower intake. EITHER WAY, I tore it all down, then put it all back together, making sure everything was torqued nice and snug, (which I thought might have been the problem because I was using a dewalt 1/4 impact driver with 3/8 drive adapter) But I torqued everything to spec and had my neighbor over double checking me. and I cranked it up and its still the same. I have decided to send it in to my friends shop. I just started doing HVAC service work to shy away from this trade and it keeps me busy enough. I started doing my own work when I was younger because we never had money to get our cars fixed. Now I make enough money to pay someone but I just can't bring my self to do it.

watster9

I'd like to add I got this car for $400 from a friend with a bad engine, so I bought an engine at pull a part and put it in over the course of a weekend. It was so simple and I was really proud and confident in my mechanical skills, but now I realize I am a terrible mechanic, but a decent parts changer.

fsttyms1

Did you replace teh part you broke?

Did you make sure the upper intake manifold cover gasket is on the correct way? It fits both ways and can cause your idle issue.

assclown

iTrader: (1)

He didn't because he doesn't know what it is. I have no idea what it is because it is a bad pic and it's been a while since I've been under the IM.

fsttyms1

Maybe he should take it off and go to the dealer with the part, or look it up here.

http://www.acuraautomotiveparts.org/...catdisplay.jsp

There was a thread about a member breaking the same part a few months ago.

Its a 4 dollar part from the dealer.

Front 36283-P8E-A01 HOLDER, FR. AIR PASSAGE
Rear 36284-P8E-A01 HOLDER, RR. AIR PASSAGE

assclown

iTrader: (1)

ah yes, I could see that causing a vacuum leak.

watster9

YES! thank you! that is exactly what I broke! I haven't gotten around to bringing it in, so I am going to call acura and order it and try to fix it one more time.

Thank you everyone for your input, it is much appreciated!

<a href="http://imgur.com/4s5ygbt"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/4s5ygbt.png" alt="" title="Hosted by imgur.com" /></a>

watster9

.....Dammit

fsttyms1

#3 36202-P8E-A01 JOINT SET, AIR ASSIST.


3 bucks

Dont forget the 0 ring

#10 91301-P8E-A00 O-RING (8.7X2.2)

watster9

UPDATE! i ordered the part, picked it up, came home to put it in. and its toooo big!. problem i think is that my body is a 2000 tl, and the engine i swapped in was an 03???. more pics are coming

watster9

got the new pieces in and put it all back together and the surging went away but it idles super high, and the whistling kind of quieted down. . . i'm done with it