Possible tranny failure on 02 TL-S
09-14-2010, 09:55 AM
#42
Why would you change the drain plug--dont own a ratchet? thats what supposed to fit there
the method you found is for newer acuras with a different type of trans than we have=
the engineers figured it was time for a way for techs to do a change of fluid without repeatedly raising and lowering the car--which cost them time and money, and danger to the vehicle and persons nearby etc
It is NOT for the TL--we do drain and refill- drive 5 minutes if doing more than 1 drain.
total capacity is 7.3 qts
dex3= interesting choice, Im guessing you never read the cars owner manual where `if dex3 is added in even the smallest amount- a complete change of fluid is required!!!!`
followed by redline...good stuff but will it cure a bad trans??
so you are running a mix of 3 brands now?
not wanting to cast ill will at your dream, so lets just see how it goes
we understand you are new here.. and took some non acura zealots advice off the internet
other issues by other ziners:
what car company has a trans warranty past 7 years or 100kmiles?
none that Ive heard of!!
recalls are not for this prob--they are for serious DANGER like 2nd gear shaft snapping on the freeway was- thats the 2004 issued recall install of external oil jet kit to lube that part.
If there was heat damage found under boroscope exam- they replaced the trans as warranty instead- all others got the kit
whiners need to sell the car and get a toyota
the method you found is for newer acuras with a different type of trans than we have=
the engineers figured it was time for a way for techs to do a change of fluid without repeatedly raising and lowering the car--which cost them time and money, and danger to the vehicle and persons nearby etc
It is NOT for the TL--we do drain and refill- drive 5 minutes if doing more than 1 drain.
total capacity is 7.3 qts
dex3= interesting choice, Im guessing you never read the cars owner manual where `if dex3 is added in even the smallest amount- a complete change of fluid is required!!!!`
followed by redline...good stuff but will it cure a bad trans??
so you are running a mix of 3 brands now?
not wanting to cast ill will at your dream, so lets just see how it goes
we understand you are new here.. and took some non acura zealots advice off the internet
other issues by other ziners:
what car company has a trans warranty past 7 years or 100kmiles?
none that Ive heard of!!
recalls are not for this prob--they are for serious DANGER like 2nd gear shaft snapping on the freeway was- thats the 2004 issued recall install of external oil jet kit to lube that part.
If there was heat damage found under boroscope exam- they replaced the trans as warranty instead- all others got the kit
whiners need to sell the car and get a toyota
Last edited by 01tl4tl; 09-14-2010 at 10:01 AM.
09-14-2010, 11:23 AM
#43
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I never changed the drain plug, you ass'umed wrong. Your the type that likes to criticize other I see. You must be the resident know it all I take it. I had nothing to lose by flushing out the old fluid. So far it has worked for me and my help others as well.
09-14-2010, 04:11 PM
#45
I guess I misunderstood this part, couldn't figure how destroying an allen was better than a ratchet??
"Drain plug is round with a 3/8 square pocket in it. Use a 3/8 allen wrench and grind off two opposite hex points so it fits."
were you suggesting to convert an allen wrench to fit the ratchet port in the trans drain plug? rather than the correct tool
and you were able to generate 29 foot pounds torque on it when done?
really?! many people find the drain difficult to remove without long breaker bar
I'm no expert/know it all, though I can help track down and trouble-shoot certain problems.
A lifetime around motorized vehicles, ability to read the owner manual,
owning a TL, plus reading most of the gen2 threads on azine = invaluable
my concern is new members introducing info thats been tossed around here before, or methods not made for OUR torque convertor (the method you found)
On here you will find much actual experience with products to try and save the trans, in various states of running and age
there was no statement made by me of how you were wrong to do what you chose-
if it came across that way I apologize--internet lacks tonality of shock and bewilderment
Some precautionary info for others and, well wishes for you for you were offered
keep us posted on how it does, slippage, shifts in R get harder, d5 lights etc
if you do eventually happen to get stuck and it doesnt want to go when hot- shut everything off for 15 minutes- then try again
that usually lets crud settle and temps cool enough to get you off the road to a safe place
BEST of luck to you in the experiment
"Drain plug is round with a 3/8 square pocket in it. Use a 3/8 allen wrench and grind off two opposite hex points so it fits."
were you suggesting to convert an allen wrench to fit the ratchet port in the trans drain plug? rather than the correct tool
and you were able to generate 29 foot pounds torque on it when done?
really?! many people find the drain difficult to remove without long breaker bar
I'm no expert/know it all, though I can help track down and trouble-shoot certain problems.
A lifetime around motorized vehicles, ability to read the owner manual,
owning a TL, plus reading most of the gen2 threads on azine = invaluable
my concern is new members introducing info thats been tossed around here before, or methods not made for OUR torque convertor (the method you found)
On here you will find much actual experience with products to try and save the trans, in various states of running and age
there was no statement made by me of how you were wrong to do what you chose-
if it came across that way I apologize--internet lacks tonality of shock and bewilderment
Some precautionary info for others and, well wishes for you for you were offered
keep us posted on how it does, slippage, shifts in R get harder, d5 lights etc
if you do eventually happen to get stuck and it doesnt want to go when hot- shut everything off for 15 minutes- then try again
that usually lets crud settle and temps cool enough to get you off the road to a safe place
BEST of luck to you in the experiment
09-14-2010, 04:15 PM
#46
my main concern was use of dex3--its had so many bad reports of near instant failure of trans- that using just redline as a push would be less dangerous- in my opinion
09-14-2010, 09:24 PM
#47
I guess I misunderstood this part, couldn't figure how destroying an allen was better than a ratchet??
...
were you suggesting to convert an allen wrench to fit the ratchet port in the trans drain plug? rather than the correct tool
and you were able to generate 29 foot pounds torque on it when done?
really?! many people find the drain difficult to remove without long breaker bar
...
were you suggesting to convert an allen wrench to fit the ratchet port in the trans drain plug? rather than the correct tool
and you were able to generate 29 foot pounds torque on it when done?
really?! many people find the drain difficult to remove without long breaker bar
I'm guessing he just didn't know that a 3/8" ratchet head could be used...no harm in that when you can think of an alternate method to get the job done.
09-15-2010, 12:16 AM
#48
I am all for making a tool that works in an emergency
As said before; my concern is for new members who dont know a lot about working on cars will read incorrect procedures/materials/tool and cause a prob on their car
owning a 3/8 drive socket set, or at least a ratchet and a few metric sockets is pretty important if you plan to work on the TL
not knowing better- this is why we have the DIY list~
I had to read all this stuff to know the details of the TL, but read I did...
and edumacated I did become~
As said before; my concern is for new members who dont know a lot about working on cars will read incorrect procedures/materials/tool and cause a prob on their car
owning a 3/8 drive socket set, or at least a ratchet and a few metric sockets is pretty important if you plan to work on the TL
not knowing better- this is why we have the DIY list~
I had to read all this stuff to know the details of the TL, but read I did...
and edumacated I did become~
09-15-2010, 05:48 AM
#49
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You come across to someone new as condescending and mocking. Being a little less of both will work better for you. I apologize also. All that out of the way now what would be your path forward if I do notice it slipping again from 2nd to 3rd. Flush by dealer or rebuild if possible?
09-15-2010, 10:26 AM
#50
dealer will only do drain and refill and calls it a flush--thats acuras term fo rthat service
while the outside industry cals machine assisted methods a flush
you already cleaned the selenoids and installed a new filter -external. right
and did what you could on changing fluid
Hope for the best
at some point all of us need a rebuild--its just when and how many
I should have used red type to indicate sarcasm or just kidding --must have been online in less than great mood--again sorry- no offense meant at all
Most members find me a valuable resource willing to help online or by PM
Yes, a bit of a d**k sometime, but still knows what he is talking about- or who to refer you to
Its fairly common knowledge on here of dex3 danger, and its in the owner book
best of luck with your fix!!,,,
Tips:
avoid use of SS to downshift into 3rd or 2nd--that will keep heat away from the weak areas
avoid using full throttle in 2nd and 3rd to prevent heat
if you need the power to get on the freeway alive-- go ahead, but in general times -give your trans as much gentle treatment as possible
make sure the fluid level is correct by 15 minute freeway cruise from cold, then get off and safely park immediatly
turn engine OFF- in Park- remove dipstick and wipe- insert FULLY remove and read needs to be BETWEEN the upper dots,,not at either one--between
thats correct level for temp at certain temp
while the outside industry cals machine assisted methods a flush
you already cleaned the selenoids and installed a new filter -external. right
and did what you could on changing fluid
Hope for the best
at some point all of us need a rebuild--its just when and how many
I should have used red type to indicate sarcasm or just kidding --must have been online in less than great mood--again sorry- no offense meant at all
Most members find me a valuable resource willing to help online or by PM
Yes, a bit of a d**k sometime, but still knows what he is talking about- or who to refer you to
Its fairly common knowledge on here of dex3 danger, and its in the owner book
best of luck with your fix!!,,,
Tips:
avoid use of SS to downshift into 3rd or 2nd--that will keep heat away from the weak areas
avoid using full throttle in 2nd and 3rd to prevent heat
if you need the power to get on the freeway alive-- go ahead, but in general times -give your trans as much gentle treatment as possible
make sure the fluid level is correct by 15 minute freeway cruise from cold, then get off and safely park immediatly
turn engine OFF- in Park- remove dipstick and wipe- insert FULLY remove and read needs to be BETWEEN the upper dots,,not at either one--between
thats correct level for temp at certain temp
Last edited by 01tl4tl; 09-15-2010 at 10:30 AM.
09-15-2010, 04:57 PM
#52
should be in the diys==look on main page of threads--3rd item down is diy list with links
09-18-2010, 02:01 PM
#54
You come across to someone new as condescending and mocking. Being a little less of both will work better for you. I apologize also. All that out of the way now what would be your path forward if I do notice it slipping again from 2nd to 3rd. Flush by dealer or rebuild if possible?
he gives you the facts.
Hes a retired tech and knows his stuff.
He's given me great advice!
Just recently, my car is/was ticking when climbing hills in low rpm, hes told me the steps to get it looked at.
By the way, does valve rattle caused be no torque have complications?
could this be caused by my exhaust not having enough resistance or my ecu slowly resetting itself against my AFC computer settings to run rich?
Last edited by thelastaspec; 09-18-2010 at 02:04 PM.
09-18-2010, 06:47 PM
#55
if I understand your question right, you get valve rattle?,,under hard throttle?
You have a high flow cat, does it have an extended tube to relocate the O2 sensor farther away from direct flow,
or if not so equipped- did you install a spark plug anti-fouler on the O2 sensor to slow flow to it?
ck your valves at idle with a mechanics stethascope, listen for any that sound different than the rest. try again at 1500- 2000 rpm
A number of things contribute to valves needing adjustment, or things that act like it
but are really ignition issues
One is carbon buildup on the back edges of the intake valves, that can cause the valve to not seat fully, plus opens and closes at different time than planned
What I suggest as a primary diagnostic tool---
clean the intake manifold and TB with seafoam or bg or wynns- whatever you like,
and a can thru the gas tank to clean injectors and more crud on the pistons--make it all shine like new will eliminate many running problems
take a look at the spark plugs to know how the car is running
I appreciate thelastaspec's comments
AND
you've got to admit JWD nailed it with this diagnosis~
`You come across to someone new as condescending and mocking`
The Wife says its not just new people...
You have a high flow cat, does it have an extended tube to relocate the O2 sensor farther away from direct flow,
or if not so equipped- did you install a spark plug anti-fouler on the O2 sensor to slow flow to it?
ck your valves at idle with a mechanics stethascope, listen for any that sound different than the rest. try again at 1500- 2000 rpm
A number of things contribute to valves needing adjustment, or things that act like it
but are really ignition issues
One is carbon buildup on the back edges of the intake valves, that can cause the valve to not seat fully, plus opens and closes at different time than planned
What I suggest as a primary diagnostic tool---
clean the intake manifold and TB with seafoam or bg or wynns- whatever you like,
and a can thru the gas tank to clean injectors and more crud on the pistons--make it all shine like new will eliminate many running problems
take a look at the spark plugs to know how the car is running
I appreciate thelastaspec's comments
AND
you've got to admit JWD nailed it with this diagnosis~
`You come across to someone new as condescending and mocking`
The Wife says its not just new people...
Last edited by 01tl4tl; 09-18-2010 at 06:54 PM.
09-18-2010, 07:14 PM
#56
if I understand your question right, you get valve rattle?,,under hard throttle?
You have a high flow cat, does it have an extended tube to relocate the O2 sensor farther away from direct flow,
or if not so equipped- did you install a spark plug anti-fouler on the O2 sensor to slow flow to it?
ck your valves at idle with a mechanics stethascope, listen for any that sound different than the rest. try again at 1500- 2000 rpm
A number of things contribute to valves needing adjustment, or things that act like it
but are really ignition issues
One is carbon buildup on the back edges of the intake valves, that can cause the valve to not seat fully, plus opens and closes at different time than planned
What I suggest as a primary diagnostic tool---
clean the intake manifold and TB with seafoam or bg or wynns- whatever you like,
and a can thru the gas tank to clean injectors and more crud on the pistons--make it all shine like new will eliminate many running problems
take a look at the spark plugs to know how the car is running
I appreciate thelastaspec's comments
AND
you've got to admit JWD nailed it with this diagnosis~
`You come across to someone new as condescending and mocking`
The Wife says its not just new people...
You have a high flow cat, does it have an extended tube to relocate the O2 sensor farther away from direct flow,
or if not so equipped- did you install a spark plug anti-fouler on the O2 sensor to slow flow to it?
ck your valves at idle with a mechanics stethascope, listen for any that sound different than the rest. try again at 1500- 2000 rpm
A number of things contribute to valves needing adjustment, or things that act like it
but are really ignition issues
One is carbon buildup on the back edges of the intake valves, that can cause the valve to not seat fully, plus opens and closes at different time than planned
What I suggest as a primary diagnostic tool---
clean the intake manifold and TB with seafoam or bg or wynns- whatever you like,
and a can thru the gas tank to clean injectors and more crud on the pistons--make it all shine like new will eliminate many running problems
take a look at the spark plugs to know how the car is running
I appreciate thelastaspec's comments
AND
you've got to admit JWD nailed it with this diagnosis~
`You come across to someone new as condescending and mocking`
The Wife says its not just new people...
You fly right? that's prob. why - down to the point.
__
Actually its when your just maintaining your speed, so light throttle (ex traffic on a hill and just going say 30mph)
gear down, and it goes away - ive gotten beter fuel economy too with "gearing down".
It seems to be when in d5 it goes up a gear to high...
then doesn't really gear down on hills when you just have to theater the throttle and stays at 1-1.5-2k rpm
its not happy and stays at say gear 4 when going 30 mph / 50km/h for the duration of the hill - rev to 2k and gone
The car was unused for lengthy durations when the previous owner was on duty (navy) multiple times so maybe there is some carbon build up.
He always used Mobile 1 twice a year.
I accidentally used half synthetic this july but im going back to mobile this winter.
Jim or whatever his name is at seafoam said i can leave some in the oil 24/7?.?
he even said if i just do it consistently at cleaning strength in the tank a couple times it will do just the same or if not a more through job cleaning vs VAC/TB method...
Could it be something to do with the timing belt and assoc. components? 7 years?
- at 49k miles?
Last edited by thelastaspec; 09-18-2010 at 07:20 PM.
09-19-2010, 07:31 PM
#57
Got it, i also recorded the idle and vairous rpm sounds to compare after my plan of using seafoam and techron.
What do feel about running some seafoam in the oil until December?
What do feel about running some seafoam in the oil until December?
09-19-2010, 08:46 PM
#58
ck the website-www.seafoamsales.com
its fine to do a 1 oz per qt of oil and monitor its condition on the dipstick-
change when needed
car sat for long periods,, I would definetly do 2 gas tanks of seafoam--
actually 2 `just under half tanks`-8 gallons at 2 oz per gal = 1 can to under half tank
thats the cleaning doseage
what that method doesnt get: is the very important throttle air plate inside the TB throat
Spray clean that with carb/TB cleaner
Lube the throttle return springs while you are in there
I would lube the throttle cables as well
We use the vac port for instant results, not wait for a few weeks of driving and wondering if it worked--manifold vac and you can tell on the blow out drive that its running way better!
on hills and low speds, under 45 in traffic, --put trans in D4, that will keep it from hunting for overdrive and should drop it to lower gear on the hill IF you give it more gas
engine oil-
the engine doesnt care if dino, semi, or full synth- you can mix and match, run one each time. it doesnt care at all
The important thing is stay with same maker for all the oil in the engine, and same weight from each bottle
timing belt parts should not make funky shifting
clean the shift selenoids by hand and do a 3 qt trans fluid drain and refill
see if that helps
its fine to do a 1 oz per qt of oil and monitor its condition on the dipstick-
change when needed
car sat for long periods,, I would definetly do 2 gas tanks of seafoam--
actually 2 `just under half tanks`-8 gallons at 2 oz per gal = 1 can to under half tank
thats the cleaning doseage
what that method doesnt get: is the very important throttle air plate inside the TB throat
Spray clean that with carb/TB cleaner
Lube the throttle return springs while you are in there
I would lube the throttle cables as well
We use the vac port for instant results, not wait for a few weeks of driving and wondering if it worked--manifold vac and you can tell on the blow out drive that its running way better!
on hills and low speds, under 45 in traffic, --put trans in D4, that will keep it from hunting for overdrive and should drop it to lower gear on the hill IF you give it more gas
engine oil-
the engine doesnt care if dino, semi, or full synth- you can mix and match, run one each time. it doesnt care at all
The important thing is stay with same maker for all the oil in the engine, and same weight from each bottle
timing belt parts should not make funky shifting
clean the shift selenoids by hand and do a 3 qt trans fluid drain and refill
see if that helps
09-20-2010, 02:52 PM
#59
Exactly my point, there shouldn't really be a time limit on the warranty extension, maybe just a mileage limit would be fair.
So far they offered some assistance in cost and reduced my price down to $2380 + tax
I'm still debating on if I should take the offer or not, but if I do take the offer its only because I cant sell the car as-is right now, it'll be much easier to sell later down the line.
But once I have some free time on my hands, I'll definitely starting writing an article and make sure it falls into the proper hands.
Also for NSXNEXT, don't forget how the whole warranty extension started, Acura/Honda didn't just come outright and decided to offer a warranty extension out of their good hearts, they were FORCED to by COURT, and that was all brought up by a group of guys that were put in situations like me, guyenacurazine, among many other members
Maybe if we could get enough support we could get another case going to settle this once and for all, and make a damm RECALL like it should have been in the first place
So far they offered some assistance in cost and reduced my price down to $2380 + tax
I'm still debating on if I should take the offer or not, but if I do take the offer its only because I cant sell the car as-is right now, it'll be much easier to sell later down the line.
But once I have some free time on my hands, I'll definitely starting writing an article and make sure it falls into the proper hands.
Also for NSXNEXT, don't forget how the whole warranty extension started, Acura/Honda didn't just come outright and decided to offer a warranty extension out of their good hearts, they were FORCED to by COURT, and that was all brought up by a group of guys that were put in situations like me, guyenacurazine, among many other members
Maybe if we could get enough support we could get another case going to settle this once and for all, and make a damm RECALL like it should have been in the first place
09-21-2010, 11:31 AM
#61
Drifting
how nice of you to put your car on auto trader and say it's in perfect running order
http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.js...standard=false
Seller's Description and Comments
The car you see here is one of a kind. FULLY LOADED and a Type S with the OEM Body Kit, which is very rare. Car has ALL scheduled maintenance performed, and I have ALL service records available. CLEAN TITLE IN HAND. Car has always been garaged, and never smoked in. The paint is in like new condition, and the car rides like a dream, very smooth and never had any mechanical problems. Here are some of the features this car has: - 5 Speed Auto w/ Sport Shift Transmission - Full Leather Interior, Power seats, Heated seats, Powers mirrors, & heated mirrors. - Pioneer Navi w/ DVD Playback, Bluetooth, iPod Connection, AM/FM & CD Player. - Kicker 6.5" Speakers w/ Bose Sub & Amp - Zyoxx 18" Rims w/ Toyo Proxes 4 Tires which have 80% tread. These are Ultra High Performance ALL Season Tires. - Rotora Rotors and Hawk Racing Brake Pads (NEW) - Tanabe Super Hyper Medialion Exhaust - Made in Japan - New H&R Sport Springs w/ Tokico Blue Shocks - Full OEM Body Kit w/ OEM Trunk Spoiler - 30% Matico Tints on all 4 sides and 20% Rear windshield - Optima Red Top Battery - HID Headlights & Fog Lights, 6000k Car is protected by the best security system, Python. Its a 2 way pager alarm system, and has remote start. The remote actually works within a 1 mile range. Car has ice cold A/C, and the heat works perfectly too. This car has a ton of extra power, and makes a nice sound with its Japanese exhaust. Always used Mobil 1 Fully Synthetic Oil every 3-4k miles. You have to see the car in person to really appreciate it. Give me a call or send me a txt, or even email me and we'll schedule a time for you to check out the car. My price is negotiable as long as its a reasonable offer. If you have absolutely any questions, then feel free to ask me. Thanks for checking out my beautiful Acura!
The car you see here is one of a kind. FULLY LOADED and a Type S with the OEM Body Kit, which is very rare. Car has ALL scheduled maintenance performed, and I have ALL service records available. CLEAN TITLE IN HAND. Car has always been garaged, and never smoked in. The paint is in like new condition, and the car rides like a dream, very smooth and never had any mechanical problems. Here are some of the features this car has: - 5 Speed Auto w/ Sport Shift Transmission - Full Leather Interior, Power seats, Heated seats, Powers mirrors, & heated mirrors. - Pioneer Navi w/ DVD Playback, Bluetooth, iPod Connection, AM/FM & CD Player. - Kicker 6.5" Speakers w/ Bose Sub & Amp - Zyoxx 18" Rims w/ Toyo Proxes 4 Tires which have 80% tread. These are Ultra High Performance ALL Season Tires. - Rotora Rotors and Hawk Racing Brake Pads (NEW) - Tanabe Super Hyper Medialion Exhaust - Made in Japan - New H&R Sport Springs w/ Tokico Blue Shocks - Full OEM Body Kit w/ OEM Trunk Spoiler - 30% Matico Tints on all 4 sides and 20% Rear windshield - Optima Red Top Battery - HID Headlights & Fog Lights, 6000k Car is protected by the best security system, Python. Its a 2 way pager alarm system, and has remote start. The remote actually works within a 1 mile range. Car has ice cold A/C, and the heat works perfectly too. This car has a ton of extra power, and makes a nice sound with its Japanese exhaust. Always used Mobil 1 Fully Synthetic Oil every 3-4k miles. You have to see the car in person to really appreciate it. Give me a call or send me a txt, or even email me and we'll schedule a time for you to check out the car. My price is negotiable as long as its a reasonable offer. If you have absolutely any questions, then feel free to ask me. Thanks for checking out my beautiful Acura!
09-21-2010, 12:14 PM
#62
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He's a genius. Post all the problems you're having on the largest Acura board. Bitch and whine then put your car up for sale.
I guess we'll just sit and wait until the car is sold and the new owner stumbles upon this thread.
I guess we'll just sit and wait until the car is sold and the new owner stumbles upon this thread.
how nice of you to put your car on auto trader and say it's in perfect running order
http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.js...standard=false
http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.js...standard=false
))
09-21-2010, 08:24 PM
#65
the fine print: it never HAD problems,,past tense
doesnt say: HAS no problems~ present tense
doesnt say: HAS no problems~ present tense
09-21-2010, 08:26 PM
#66
too bad buyers cant vin search for azine members
09-21-2010, 08:27 PM
#67
and what are: hawk racing brake pads,,
is it one or the other company,hawk or RB, or a new pad from hawk I dont know about?
is it one or the other company,hawk or RB, or a new pad from hawk I dont know about?
09-21-2010, 09:28 PM
#68
He already mentioned he was trying to sell it as-is in his first post, so no surprise there.
That P0740 isn't going away. CEL P0740 will be set when buyer looks at it. Even if he resets the battery and he doesn't drive it enough to avoid TC lock-up, smart buyer would notice that monitors aren't ready even if no CEL or no P0740. Smart buyer would also do a test drive on the expressway & go through all gears...P0740 CEL will pop up.
Also, with a P0740, the car may drive like it doesn't have problems as long as it's warm. Up to the buyer to associate a P0740 with a DYING TRANNY. Maybe there's a reason why code P0740 is mentioned repeatedly in my reply.
eggyhustles, good find...good lookin out...
That P0740 isn't going away. CEL P0740 will be set when buyer looks at it. Even if he resets the battery and he doesn't drive it enough to avoid TC lock-up, smart buyer would notice that monitors aren't ready even if no CEL or no P0740. Smart buyer would also do a test drive on the expressway & go through all gears...P0740 CEL will pop up.
Also, with a P0740, the car may drive like it doesn't have problems as long as it's warm. Up to the buyer to associate a P0740 with a DYING TRANNY. Maybe there's a reason why code P0740 is mentioned repeatedly in my reply.
eggyhustles, good find...good lookin out...
09-21-2010, 09:40 PM
#69
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I'm not trying to scam anybody here on autotrader, i created that ad months before the tranny went out. I actually setup while the car was getting rebuilt from my accident. i didn't even know that car would have this kind of problem.
I just never bothered to update the description of the ad to reflect a broken tranny, however the few people that called or emailed me, i did tell them about the problem....
I just never bothered to update the description of the ad to reflect a broken tranny, however the few people that called or emailed me, i did tell them about the problem....
09-21-2010, 10:07 PM
#71
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To everyone else following my story, I basically thought about the offer from acura for a long time, and finally called them back and accepted the offer to fix tranny for $2380. I had an appoit setup with the dealer for tomorrow first thing in the morning to drop off the car.
I get a call today from my case manager from acura corp, and he says that since I have my car listed for sale, he's now gonna withdraw his offer and I'm on my own. i assured him that since i'm making such a big investment into this car, that I'll no longer gonna be selling it, and will keep it. Those were my honest intentions, it wouldn't make sense paying over 2.5k for tranny repair + 5.5k I spent on fixing it after my accident, so i honestly considered it and decided to keep th car, and now this idiot declined me all assistance.
I'm soooo pissed off at the moment, we had a verbal agreement which is the same as a legally binding contract. the level of customer service he provides is HORRIBLE, I wouldn't even call it customer service, infact I asked several times to speak with his supervisor and he denies my request and claims nobody can override his decision.
At this point I'm gonna consider my legal options and contact an attorney, i also have a few journalists who would love to write a story on this. One way or another, I'll make Acura pay!
I get a call today from my case manager from acura corp, and he says that since I have my car listed for sale, he's now gonna withdraw his offer and I'm on my own. i assured him that since i'm making such a big investment into this car, that I'll no longer gonna be selling it, and will keep it. Those were my honest intentions, it wouldn't make sense paying over 2.5k for tranny repair + 5.5k I spent on fixing it after my accident, so i honestly considered it and decided to keep th car, and now this idiot declined me all assistance.
I'm soooo pissed off at the moment, we had a verbal agreement which is the same as a legally binding contract. the level of customer service he provides is HORRIBLE, I wouldn't even call it customer service, infact I asked several times to speak with his supervisor and he denies my request and claims nobody can override his decision.
At this point I'm gonna consider my legal options and contact an attorney, i also have a few journalists who would love to write a story on this. One way or another, I'll make Acura pay!
Last edited by AcuraKidd; 09-21-2010 at 10:09 PM.
09-22-2010, 05:09 AM
#72
WRITE CORP
and
you have to be able to see their position-
after some delay you approve the work
and somehow at the same time they learn your car is for sale--why would they cut you $2000 break... so you can sell the car for a lot more with fresh trans
Im guessing the conversation hasnt been pleasent with your case manager at corp
in court-
acuras good faith offer has a reasonable time limit and provisions
A judge will see that as however many days acura says is normal-3-5 max in most offers... and an online ad for the car = you are a scammer
Im not saying you are- no one is- just what it appears on paper
and
you have to be able to see their position-
after some delay you approve the work
and somehow at the same time they learn your car is for sale--why would they cut you $2000 break... so you can sell the car for a lot more with fresh trans
Im guessing the conversation hasnt been pleasent with your case manager at corp
in court-
acuras good faith offer has a reasonable time limit and provisions
A judge will see that as however many days acura says is normal-3-5 max in most offers... and an online ad for the car = you are a scammer
Im not saying you are- no one is- just what it appears on paper
09-23-2010, 01:29 PM
#73
got my TL back today 2800$ for tranny and some brake jobs. I dont know what to say. How did it turn out for you acurakidd? HEy btw, acurakid, where do you get those wheels from? That looked awesome. I think i have seen your car in the gallery in the past and excited about your wheels. I have stock chrome 18' it is nice but i would rather have one like yours.
09-24-2010, 11:34 AM
#74
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I called my dealer to let them know why I didn't show up, they were surprised by the behavior of the case manager from the corp office, I asked to have the service manager from the dealer to get in touch with the case manager from the corp office.
I'm just waiting on a response now from my dealer, if they could all make this situation right, then I'll pretend it was all just a bad dream, if not then I'm gonna proceed with legal action.
I heard that BBB Auto Line has some good results, anybody ever try it yet?
guyenacurazine, I bought the rims a while back for over 2k, they're very hard to find nowadays. Where are you located? Maybe we could trade.
p.s. Hi Acura Corp
I'm just waiting on a response now from my dealer, if they could all make this situation right, then I'll pretend it was all just a bad dream, if not then I'm gonna proceed with legal action.
I heard that BBB Auto Line has some good results, anybody ever try it yet?
guyenacurazine, I bought the rims a while back for over 2k, they're very hard to find nowadays. Where are you located? Maybe we could trade.
p.s. Hi Acura Corp
09-24-2010, 11:32 PM
#75
oh those wheels are one of a kind but 2k is way over my budget. I was just wondering... so they backed up from the offer they initially made to you? i cant believe those a-holes are doing this just because you re selling the car, how did they find out you re selling? ,man there is gotta be another class action suit so that warranty extends indefinitely. They are not supposed to put some warranty deadline and keep delivering shitty transmission for those models.
09-25-2010, 12:14 AM
#76
they cant FIX the trans problem!
so you want a `your lifetime` trans warranty?? for free???
maybe kia will give you one,,,
Gen 3 only got a 4/50 warranty on trans and they carry our problems
More and more are being reported by them, with selenoids a real problem
the court case originally set 7 year 100kmiles, then a supplement added 9 months and 9 kmiles more miles
corp rep may be following this thread~ and saw post about selling
BBB is not an enforcement agency like the state bureau of auto repair
its a `club` you can join as a company in town, pay a fee to have biz name in their directory- sticker on door,,,it makes potential customers feel `safe`
when you file a complaint: they ask the shop whats going on, if a valid complaint exist and parties cannot resolve- then bbb makes a decision--shop has agreeed to binding arbitration as part of membership
so if the bbb says pay 500, the shop will
has to be really bad behavior by shop--this is a corp decision on a freebie
what are you going to complain about,,you delayed and they retracted offer- thats the internet biting you
welcome to america
so you want a `your lifetime` trans warranty?? for free???
maybe kia will give you one,,,
Gen 3 only got a 4/50 warranty on trans and they carry our problems
More and more are being reported by them, with selenoids a real problem
the court case originally set 7 year 100kmiles, then a supplement added 9 months and 9 kmiles more miles
corp rep may be following this thread~ and saw post about selling
BBB is not an enforcement agency like the state bureau of auto repair
its a `club` you can join as a company in town, pay a fee to have biz name in their directory- sticker on door,,,it makes potential customers feel `safe`
when you file a complaint: they ask the shop whats going on, if a valid complaint exist and parties cannot resolve- then bbb makes a decision--shop has agreeed to binding arbitration as part of membership
so if the bbb says pay 500, the shop will
has to be really bad behavior by shop--this is a corp decision on a freebie
what are you going to complain about,,you delayed and they retracted offer- thats the internet biting you
welcome to america
Last edited by 01tl4tl; 09-25-2010 at 12:16 AM.
09-25-2010, 08:12 AM
#77
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No you're wrong. I accepted the offer they made me. I already setup the appoit with my dealer. The guy from Corp office called me 1 day before my appoit to back out of the deal. For all I know, we had a legally binding contract which he backed out of.
09-25-2010, 10:01 AM
#78
verbal agreements are not binding,,especially when you appear to be violating the spirit of the goodwill--
ie: getting acura to pay for a trans WHILE you have an internet ad selling the car
Goodwill is for good customers who love their car and plan to keep it for years
but take it to small claims- it will be intresting to see what happens
ie: getting acura to pay for a trans WHILE you have an internet ad selling the car
Goodwill is for good customers who love their car and plan to keep it for years
but take it to small claims- it will be intresting to see what happens
09-25-2010, 10:33 AM
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holy fuck
I'M NOT SELLING THE CAR
my ad was posted before tranny failure, before i started talking with acura about goodwill, I already spoke with the mods about deleting the ad and they said they cant do so, the most they can do is close it
I'm gonna say it again....
IF I'M GONNA SPEND MONEY FIXING THE TRANNY THEN I'M KEEPING THE CAR
and you're wrong 01tl4tl, a verbal agreement constitutes a legally binding contract, any lawyer or attorney can confirm that
I'M NOT SELLING THE CAR
my ad was posted before tranny failure, before i started talking with acura about goodwill, I already spoke with the mods about deleting the ad and they said they cant do so, the most they can do is close it
I'm gonna say it again....
IF I'M GONNA SPEND MONEY FIXING THE TRANNY THEN I'M KEEPING THE CAR
and you're wrong 01tl4tl, a verbal agreement constitutes a legally binding contract, any lawyer or attorney can confirm that
09-26-2010, 01:48 AM
#80
like I said--take it to small claims then, I am interested in the result
note small claims court does not allow attorneys for either side
Maybe you can get them to go on a tv judge show lol
regardless of what you say now--the FACT remains that an ad for the car was posted online,,regardless of your decision after that time and money spent on the car--it remained posted,,, and as far as anyone knows- active
Surely you can see their concern??
hopefully your SM will get corp to understand your committment to the car and allow the deal to go thru as agreed
note small claims court does not allow attorneys for either side
Maybe you can get them to go on a tv judge show lol
regardless of what you say now--the FACT remains that an ad for the car was posted online,,regardless of your decision after that time and money spent on the car--it remained posted,,, and as far as anyone knows- active
Surely you can see their concern??
hopefully your SM will get corp to understand your committment to the car and allow the deal to go thru as agreed