But it has intake air bypass control valve.

 

Domenic, When you put the IACV on the first time you might have shifted the seal a bit and had a leak. Hopefully it will stay working. Since you need to have the valve cover seals replaced, you will need all the parts you purchased anyway. Let us know what happens on Tuesday. Luck.

 

Never heard of intake air bypass control valve. Always thought that was the IACV.

 

Thanks. Sure enough when I went from Drive to Park last night,, the issue returned. Engine light code PO131 and code for idle control system. As said previously, for the job on Tuesday I also purchased oxygen sensors. But I'm worried it's the wires or harness or electrical. Because when I sprayed cleaner (clean off oil leakage mess) the code came on immediately after.

When you say I may have shifter the seal, which seal? Throttle body gasket? iacv gasket?

 

The service manual page 11-184

 

 

Ok, I think I know where it is. It is the valve that controls the vacuum to motor mounts, right?
I know that when the revving goes up and down, that valve clicks. My understanding is that if it is clicking, it is working.
Part number??????

 

Is this it? This looks like the part that sits on top of the intake air tube, what I thought was maf sensor.

 

​​​​​​The Service Manual page 11-182 shows its location, but you need to test it first.

 

OK great! Thanks. How do I get to it? Pull up plenum? I may just replace it...

 

Maybe when mechanic did the crappy valve cover job, he screwed with the part.......

 

Anyone have the part number? Thank you kindly.

 

IFyou need one, you'll have to purchase used:

 

Is it hard to get to / replace?

 

It's circled in red on Jon M's previously supplied picture; however, before you load the 'parts cannon', as previously mentioned, test it for fuctionality.

 

parts cannon - lol!!!
I mean the car has 222k miles on it so maybe needs a replacement??
it's literally the only part I haven't screwed with or considered. Today was first day I ever heard of it.
And I bet that idiot mechanic screwed with it somehow. Maybe he didnt put a hose back on or something. if the part is bad would that present the revving idle symptoms?

 

all day today when going into Park, the idle revs up and down. Even when I turn car off and restart it, the issue immediately returns (didn't do that before)
also today it feels like the idle surges when it should be decreasing. Like when I come off the gas and coast down, all of a sudden the idle goes up. Hard to explain. When it does that and I go to slow.a down or stop, it feels like a bang. But it's not.
oh well...almost Tuesday. we will see what mechanic #437 can find.

 

I adjusted the idle screw a few different times this weekend, turned it to different positions. Nothing changes. Not even the idle speed changes. I think the screw does nothing. I've turned it several rotations to see if something would change, nothing happens.

The car seems to have a high idle. I drove this morning and when I coast down and come off the gas, the rpms STICK at about 2K. I basically could coast for a mile or whatever without hitting thr gas. That doesn't seem normal.

Last night besides the revving idle (1k rpm up and down to and from 3k rpm), it also starting bouncing idle when in drive (2k rpm up and down to from 2.5k rpm). Runs like crazy when it does that. Engine light and tcs light come on.

This morning.....no engine lights.

Tuesday getting closer. Will NOT pick up car until problem is fixed. Credit card ready. I can't take it anymore!

 

Domenic, That idle adjust screw should have a lot of affect. At least it does on mine. It probably won't affect the surging but should affect the idle RPMs. There is a rubber O-ring at the end of the screw and if this is damage air will be leaking through. I know you are taking it in on Tuesday (which I think is the best thing for you to do), I just want to point out for others they can test the screw by turning it fully closed. As long as the O-ring seal is good this should shut off any extra air and the idle should be minimum. Then if you start to loosen it the RPMs should increase. In my opinion, If it does nothing the seal may be bad or there is a lot of excess air already going through and something such as a bad IACV or an opening past the throttle body exists. Leave it to the mechanic but tell them you messed with the screw with indeterminate results.

 

UPDATE

Car has been left with Samurai Motors (Yoshi) Las Vegas, NV.

Yoshi said "problem for me is, trying to find out what other mechanic did wrong".
and
"You should not have used Intermotor or any aftermarket IACV......if IACV is problem, you need Honda part (which is about $250).......

Stay tuned!

 

FFS, I've used the RockAuto supplied STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS AC229 IACV on both my 2G CL's for years now , after the OEM Denso's crapped the bed, and have had no issues.
More Information for STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS AC229 (rockauto.com)

 

Me too! I actually bought Standard Motor due to YOUR recommendation. And it was PERFECT for about 3 weeks. I don't buy that crap that all of a sudden the part went bad...........
I mean....it has power......its not gunked up sooooooooo......

We'll see!

 

What's the Honda parts #?

 

^
#2 on the link below: $265.32 of OEM ripoff.
Throttle Body - 2000 Acura TL 4 Door TL (NAVI) KA 5AT (acurapartswarehouse.com)

 

But sometimes you just have to bite the bullet. For example, I bought an ECT sensor from AutoZone in September because my 22-year-old factory ECT sensor had gone bad. Yesterday, I had to replace the one I got from AutoZone because it malfunctioned in these than three months. You can buy two AutoZone ECT sensors with the same money the charge for the OEM sensor. But is the saving worth the trouble?

 

Good point.

But geez..........what is the mechanical difference between Standard Motor and Original Honda? Power. Spindle thingy that sometimes gets gunked up.
Yoshi said Honda car and Honda computer need to talk same language to Honda IACV. Aftermarket speak different language.
HAHAHAAH!!

To be prepared, I am searching for best price for OEM. Just called my local Acura dealer and they said part is on national back-order, no ETA.

Today when driving to Yoshi, the CEL came on (Idle System Malfunction) and the idle surged up and down while I was coasting/in Drive. Then in park, same thing. Good luck Yoshi!

 

That doesn't sound like the problem is caused by IACV.

 

I agree. Let's hope that the valve cover job, which includes replacing all upper intake gaskets, and new plugs, does the trick. If not, I am not picking up the vehicle tonight. I cant take it anymore! HAHAHA!

 

UPDATE

Yoshi said he needs additional time to troubleshoot idle air system malfunction. Said aftermarket part makes it harder to find problem. Said aftermarket part may have been OK for 3 weeks but after that.....it goes bad. Said he sees aftermarket IACVs crapping out often.
anyway.....He said he did smoke test and vacuum leak test. Says these tests were negative. He checked all gaskets and hoses and everywhere else - no leaks.
he said the oxygen sensor I bought, due to po131 code, may be crap. Said I need to buy Denso. I should have, I admit. Was dumb to try and save a few bucks.

May know more tomorrow.

 

Domenic. Agree on the Denso O2 sensor. Concerning the IACV I have had three one time. One original OEM, One cheap aftermarket, and one SMP unit. The original failed, the cheap one was just crap car ran really rough, the SMP worked ok but not like the original. I took them all apart, not just off but apart. I can tell you the original was built MUCH better. I ended up taking parts from all three and rebuilding one unit, which is still on the car working. For how long who knows.

 

Thank you! Good job with the rebuild!

I am waiting on Yoshi to call me back. Waiting on the green light to purchase the Honda IACV and Denso O2 sensor. Thanks!

 

Jon,

Wanted to get your opinion about an issue I am having with my son's Acura RSX. Though, I do not see a spot on the Forum for RSX vehicles. Any idea where I should post the question, for your (and others) opinion?

Thanks!

 

Please let us know whether or not you can get a Honda IACV for your car. My local Acura parts people told me that the IACV for 2000 TL hasn't been available for more than three years. They suspect it could be discontinued.

 

Great point! Yesterday, when calling local Acura dealer, I was told it is on back-order with no ETA as to when it will be available.
This made me search sites such as "Acura OEM Parts" via google. I found the part, but some are saying unavailable.
I found one on Ebay (I have been in communication with the seller) that I may need to purchase. https://www.ebay.com/itm/233945283051

 

UPDATE

Mechanic says car is still idling badly. Has no idea why. Still diagnosing. Lovely.

Do you think I should go with Ebay https://www.ebay.com/itm/233945283051 or go to Acura/Honda OEM Parts Online (cost about $270).........

 

Domenic,
I don't have any experience with specifics about an RSX. You can try looking at this forum https://acurazine.com/forums/integra-188/

 

Forgot to mention.....mechanic said he found one intake air port clogged/dirty so he cleaned it, but still has idle problem.
It really can't be this difficult.
Again....4 weeks ago......installed Intermotor IACV.....car ran perfect. no issue. it ran better than ever before. I cant explain it....just trust me....it did. Even when there were times when the idle didnt act up, it still didnt run as perfect as it did for those 3 weeks. When I put car in park...the idle actually stayed where it was supposed to. It was like even when I went from drive to park, I didnt feel the idle change or move. It was smooth. Again, hard to explain. But when the problem was gone at times before, it didnt act smooth like that. I thought the problem was gone forever!
Then 3 weeks later, the problem started again.

I told mechanic.....let me buy Honda OEM IACV (after I sell one my kidneys) and install it. Let's see what happens. He said no....still testing things. Cant wait to see my invoice.

 

Transmission (ACURA RSX) is leaking at where tranny mount connects to tranny/frame. IDK. I was just told the bolt wore into something and now it leaks. Ok, fine.
Took to transmission shop. 3 times he drained fluid, put JB Weld on the hole, and said it was fine. Nope. Not fine. Leaking again. Today he tells me, he needs to take the transmission up, $1400.
I told him if you use JB Weld, you have to drain the fluid, clean/sand, then use JB Weld, and LET IT CURE FOR LIKE 2 DAYS. You cant use JB Weld, add fluid 1 hour later, then call me and tell me to pick up car because you fixed the leak.
I will probably take to someone else, but I already paid the mechanic previously mentioned here.
Drove car today and despite my garage floor looking like someone was shot, the car doenst slip or bang. Maybe I will just keep an eye on the fluid level and forget about it for a little bit.
I'm starting to think EVERYONE in Las Vegas is mental or eats paint chips. Its getting to me. It like I am on an episode of Green Acres (if anyone is old enough to remember that show).

 

Honda OEM Part is 16022-P8A-A03, which replaces 16022-P8A-A02.
Mechanic is saying that all aftermarket parts are basically 16022-P8A-A02. Said they will work for a while, but then after more time to interact with ECU and Black Dot Fuel Pressure Regulator, it will fail.
Fix is to only use 16022-P8A-A03, which is expensive.
Said issue will not occur with 16022-P8A-A03.

 

It's a bit like talking to Hank Kimball, no doubt?