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This intake manifold in photo, does not include the lower intake manifold gaskets? So I need to get lower set and set in photo?
Basically.....if I want to replace the valve cover gaskets and all intake manifold gaskets, is my cart correct? Do I need anything else for this job? Thank you.
Basically.....if I want to replace the valve cover gaskets and all intake manifold gaskets, is my cart correct? Do I need anything else for this job? Thank you.
I feel like the above is missing another side upper intake manifold gasket......
like the lower has a set of 2......would the upper have a set of 2?
Car is getting a check engine code that I never received before: P0131
I looked under the hood last night and it appears I am going to need to get the valve covers replaced sooner than I wanted.
Besides getting the occasional white smoke under the hood where the oil drips to a hot exhaust part or hot part of engine, the smell is starting to get to me.
And, I noticed last night, that oil is leaking (rear valve covers; by firewall) onto a few electrical components. I am not sure what they are power supplies to, but they are found at the back and lower back of engine. I am going to purchase electrical cleaner today and also brake or carb cleaner too.
I'll purchase the valve covers, spark plugs, and upper plenum gasket set. I will not purchase the 2 lower intake manifold gaskets because I am not having any intake manifold gasket problems, and I don't think the mechanic messed with them or was exposed to them when he did the last valve cover job (which started the whole issue in the first place). So I will not get the lower gaskets unless you good folks recommend that I do.
Hi Domenic, If I may make a suggestion: I'd use some superclean (purple bottle) to remove the oil/grime from that area; it's a bit more gentler on any non-metal components in the area (like the driveshaft boots down below). In terms of contact cleaner: CRC and WD-40 make great products; about the same price so whatever is less expensive or available.
Did you check the CAM thrust seal? that tends to get old brittle and leak as well.
and...I know that we leaned toward a vacuum leak when we first started diagnosing; but the new evidence (your video of you covering the intake port of the IACV) suggest a drop and stabilizing in the idle speed when covering. The service manual states to adjust the idle speed as a result. Additionally, I found in the Idle system index this symptom and suggested action:
Hi Domenic, If I may make a suggestion: I'd use some superclean (purple bottle) to remove the oil/grime from that area; it's a bit more gentler on any non-metal components in the area (like the driveshaft boots down below). In terms of contact cleaner: CRC and WD-40 make great products; about the same price so whatever is less expensive or available.
Did you check the CAM thrust seal? that tends to get old brittle and leak as well.
and...I know that we leaned toward a vacuum leak when we first started diagnosing; but the new evidence (your video of you covering the intake port of the IACV) suggest a drop and stabilizing in the idle speed when covering. The service manual states to adjust the idle speed as a result. Additionally, I found in the Idle system index this symptom and suggested action:
Thank you! I will review the pages you mentioned above.
Since this all started when mechanic changed the valve cover gaskets, could he have uninentionally screwed with the idle speed some how?
Also....if idle speed is the issue......why was all perfect for 3 weeks after I replaced throttle body and IACV (brand new, intermotor)?
Maybe we will never know why.........ha.
Hi Domenic, If I may make a suggestion: I'd use some superclean (purple bottle) to remove the oil/grime from that area; it's a bit more gentler on any non-metal components in the area (like the driveshaft boots down below). In terms of contact cleaner: CRC and WD-40 make great products; about the same price so whatever is less expensive or available.
Did you check the CAM thrust seal? that tends to get old brittle and leak as well.
and...I know that we leaned toward a vacuum leak when we first started diagnosing; but the new evidence (your video of you covering the intake port of the IACV) suggest a drop and stabilizing in the idle speed when covering. The service manual states to adjust the idle speed as a result. Additionally, I found in the Idle system index this symptom and suggested action:
I am reading the procedure, though I may not be best suited to do this myself.
Could I just "mess around" with the idle screw and see if it gets better? And if so, would I do that when problem is or is not occurring?
I cannot adjust idle speed because there is no screw available to turn. See photo.
Also posting other photos of where rear valve cover leak is leaking onto electrical connectors (not sure which connectors they are). Could this be making the P0131 Code?
Note - I just purchased both O2 sensors which I will have mechanic install when doing valve cover job (I bought aftermarket O2s).
Each throttle body comes with a idle adjustment screw to "tune" the amount of air that passes through that unique throttle body's passage. When you changed the throttle body; you in turn changed the characteristics (or amount of air) passing through your system and it required adjustment.
Now, why did it work fine for 3 weeks? could be a number of reasons, the best I could speculate is the change of summer fuel to winter fuel and also the change in air needed to maintain the proper air:fuel ratio. again, that's only speculation.
Each throttle body comes with a idle adjustment screw to "tune" the amount of air that passes through that unique throttle body's passage. When you changed the throttle body; you in turn changed the characteristics (or amount of air) passing through your system and it required adjustment.
Now, why did it work fine for 3 weeks? could be a number of reasons, the best I could speculate is the change of summer fuel to winter fuel and also the change in air needed to maintain the proper air:fuel ratio. again, that's only speculation.
The previous throttle body has adjustment screw. The throttle body I have on there now does not have a screw in the same spot as the other. It's like it's covered......
Each throttle body comes with a idle adjustment screw to "tune" the amount of air that passes through that unique throttle body's passage. When you changed the throttle body; you in turn changed the characteristics (or amount of air) passing through your system and it required adjustment.
Now, why did it work fine for 3 weeks? could be a number of reasons, the best I could speculate is the change of summer fuel to winter fuel and also the change in air needed to maintain the proper air:fuel ratio. again, that's only speculation.
apparently the screw is covered with a wax that I need to scrape off in order to adjust.....
I see I missed a bunch of discussion. Just a few things to comment on. Your last list of items to buy looks correct. There would be two lower intake manifold gaskets. The lower intake has two manifold pieces (3 cylinders each) they are the pieces connected to the heads.
They are items 11 & 12. Once these manifolds are bolted on they come up and form the area you see when you remove the upper intake housing. When looking at the gaskets the lower takes 2, one for the front and one for the rear manifolds. The lower half of the upper intake manifold housing takes 1 gasket, you will note it has 6 holes in the one gasket, See the picture with the rags in each.
If you are going to disconnect the IACV electrical I would remove it before starting the car. Taking an electrical connector off when active power is applied can cause a spike and damage the part and/or the computer.
As far as the IACV going bad it can easily go bad, I once had two bad OEM fuel filters sent to me by an Acura dealership in Las Vegas. took me forever to figure out the problem, who suspects a new part, especially twice in a row?
Personally with all the heartache the last mechanic seems to have cause I would be replacing all the intake gaskets and be done with thinking about it.
My appointment is next Tuesday, the 15th, for valve cover job (including upper intake parts) and oxygen sensors (I am getting a PO131 code that will no go away). I will also have a cleaned up Denso IACV (the one that was attached to the salvage yard throttle body) just in case mechanic tells me the NEW IACV is crap. Hoping the oxygen sensors are OK.....I didnt want to spend for the OEMs.....I went with Ebay and a seller that had 100% rating. Fingers crossed, but needed to save money somewhere.
Monday night I disconnected the battery and Tuesday morning I performed the idle relearn. Tuesday evening, drove car, put in park, idle revved up and down. Drove more, put in park, car did not rev up and down. Drove more, put car in park, car revved up and down, but then I turned the AC on and off, car stopped revving. Also what I notice is.....when I put the car in park, the idle rises a little, say to 1.5 RPMs. Usually it will then immediately drop to around 800 RPMs and idle fine. But sometimes when the idle rises when initially going into park, it will then make the revving start. Its a real mystery!
My plan is to tell the mechanic the full history of the car and all that I have done so far. I will tell him this all started with the previous mechanic changing the valve covers. I will provide him with a backup (Denso) IACV. I will tell him to check EVERYTHING as he goes along with the work on the valve covers. When I pick the car up, if the revving is bouncing up and down, I am going to tell the mechanic that I am leaving the car with him until he figures it the F out. I dont care if it takes days or weeks. I am not going to drive the Acura home until he finds something. To me....the issue is somewhere in the upper intake (thanks to previous mechanic) or there is a ECU problem (used ECU is $30, $150 for Acura to program). We'll see. But next Tuesday we will be one step closer, right?!?
I purchased FelPro gaskets and Denso Iridium Power plugs. Mechanic just sent me a text and told me to buy PCV valve and PCV hose.
I see I missed a bunch of discussion. Just a few things to comment on. Your last list of items to buy looks correct. There would be two lower intake manifold gaskets. The lower intake has two manifold pieces (3 cylinders each) they are the pieces connected to the heads.
They are items 11 & 12. Once these manifolds are bolted on they come up and form the area you see when you remove the upper intake housing. When looking at the gaskets the lower takes 2, one for the front and one for the rear manifolds. The lower half of the upper intake manifold housing takes 1 gasket, you will note it has 6 holes in the one gasket, See the picture with the rags in each.
If you are going to disconnect the IACV electrical I would remove it before starting the car. Taking an electrical connector off when active power is applied can cause a spike and damage the part and/or the computer.
As far as the IACV going bad it can easily go bad, I once had two bad OEM fuel filters sent to me by an Acura dealership in Las Vegas. took me forever to figure out the problem, who suspects a new part, especially twice in a row?
Personally with all the heartache the last mechanic seems to have cause I would be replacing all the intake gaskets and be done with thinking about it.
Also going to ask mechanic to clean the EGR port (right side of blue towels). It looks GUNKY!
PCV replacement is a good. Also if you have gunk in the EGR port also make sure that the channels that are in the upper intake cover and the housing are cleaned out. See picture below.
Arrows point to ERG channels, clean these and the ones in the intake manifold housing.
PCV replacement is a good. Also if you have gunk in the EGR port also make sure that the channels that are in the upper intake cover and the housing are cleaned out. See picture below.
Arrows point to ERG channels, clean these and the ones in the intake manifold housing.
Will do. I love a good can of carb cleaner....I love a good cleaning!!!!!
If you take down the engine to replace the two lower intake gaskets, make sure you replace the knock sensor as well because it's right there.
Good point! I don't think I'm planning to go to the lower gaskets. But if Yoshi (my acura/honda mechanic) sees something or wants to do something....I'll give him the green light.
Probably nothing that will add to the conversation, but recall how when I turn the ac on and off the idle fixes itself?
when I was out this evening, the idle was revving again, so I turn the wheel ALL the way to the left,, and the revving stopped. Issue happened again when I got home, turned wheel all the way to left, problem went away. Could this mean there is a vacuum leak on power steering pump (which by the way also has a small leak) (I have orange gaskets to replace, just never got around to it)?????
or is it just a matter of changing the load when in ark which makes idle rev stop??????
I've sprayed water and carb cleaner, multiple times, on all vacuum lines and lines running off of the throttle body, and everywhere in between. I mean, I sprayed EVERYWHERE. Carefully. Multiple times. I never get a "draw"......revving never changes. So, I cannot diagnose as vacuum leak. (Unless leak is inside the plenum).
Wondering if issue is electrical? Meaning something is shorting somewhere? Bad wire? Sporadic issue. I mean, my alternator pulley is whining and my positive battery post isnt perfectly connected (not a perfect snug connection) (I have inserted a small screw to bring contact between post and cable connector) - I was told neither are an issue but........
To me.....this revving issue is: Something inside intake (pinched gasket or intake restriction), ECU that needs to be replaced, or some electrical BS.
Tuesday, car goes to mechanic. Fingers crossed!!!!!
Symptom Troubleshooting Index on Page 11-44 of the service manual says your idling issue is caused by intake air leaks. It says you need to check and adjust the idle speed, the throttle cable, and check/test the throttle body.
I'm actually going to have my mechanic look into idle speed reset when he has the car on Tuesday.
Just got back from a few stops. Put car in park, car revs, I turn wheel completely to left, revving stops. Drive more, put car in park, car revs, I turn wheel completely to left, revving does NOT stop. Turn AC on and off, revving does NOT stop. Bipolar disorder vehicle.
Your car may have a bad PCM. You can take it out and test it first
Not sure where PCM is or how to remove.
Would bad PCM give other symptoms? The check engine light with PO131 code came on recently, yesterday iafternoon t went off and hasn't come back last night/today......
I was able to play around with the idle speed screw. I turned it all the way to the right (it was mostly to the right already; only needed a very small turn). Nothing happened.
Also, after doing more cleaning with electrical spray cleaner, my PO131 code returned. Engine light and TCS light.
Idle revving this morning, would not stop even after turning wheel all the way to left and right.
Glad car is going in on Tuesday.
I was able to play around with the idle speed screw. I turned it all the way to the right (it was mostly to the right already; only needed a very small turn). Nothing happened.
Also, after doing more cleaning with electrical spray cleaner, my PO131 code returned. Engine light and TCS light.
Idle revving this morning, would not stop even after turning wheel all the way to left and right.
Glad car is going in on Tuesday.
I just find it hard to believe that the brand new Intermotor IACV is faulty. However, I have a used Denso IACV that was attached to the salvage yard throttle body. I could clean that up and install. I didnt use the Denso from the salvage yard throttle body, because I purchased the BRAND NEW Intermotor.
Wondering if I really have a bad 02 sensor (due to PO131 Code) or if it is wiring/harness related.
As I said....yesterday I sprayed down the connectors (I did not disconnect because I was unable to do so) and now all of a sudden the code is returned.
I was cleaning because the valve covers are leaking oil onto many things, so I was trying to clean up.
Again, should learn more on Tuesday.
I will provide the mechanic with both O2 sensors and will ask him to replace, but to also check the wires/harness.
I think I am going to replace the current (and new) IACV with the Denso IACV that was on the salvage yard throttle body.
I already cleaned up it.
When I look at the Denso IACV, I notice the gasket is on perfectly. I am wondering if I put the gasket on wrong when I put the new IACV on the throttle body?
If I did, if that gasket isnt sitting right, could that make this problem?
I think I am going to replace the current (and new) IACV with the Denso IACV that was on the salvage yard throttle body.
I already cleaned up it.
When I look at the Denso IACV, I notice the gasket is on perfectly. I am wondering if I put the gasket on wrong when I put the new IACV on the throttle body?
If I did, if that gasket isnt sitting right, could that make this problem?
I put the Denso IACV on, restarted car, and now its worse. When it first starts up, it revs VERY HIGH, then a few seconds later when it decreases, the revving idle starts again. I should have just left the Intermotor IACV on....there was nothing wrong with it....it was brand new. Now I don't know where I am at. Also pissed off because I cannot do Uber Eats on the side tonight. Sometimes I wonder why I just dont get something different or something newer. Guess I do not want to take a loan or have a car payment. But I'm about fed up.
Guess on Tuesday we'll see what mechanic says. Thanks everyone!
Started car, car initially revs very high (never saw it do that before), then it starts revving up and down.
So I pulled power to IACV and it starts revving up and down real fast. Put IACV power back on. Revving went back to up and down.
Pulled power from MAF sensor. No change.
Pulled TPS power. Revving up and down STOPPED.
Code = PO108 and PO122 (but again, because I pulled power to both MAF and TPS).
WHEN I CLEARED THE CODE, the revving started again. Strange.
Also, I noticed white smoke coming from bottom of engine, by firewall, below valve covers. Assumption is valve covers leaking oil onto hot parts.
Though I am wondering....since it was a decent amount of white smoke.....any chance its something to do with intake manifold gaskets?
Or would the white smoke being on the outside mean it can only be from valve covers?
Car does not smoke at all, ever, from tailpipe.
Just put the "newish" Intermotor IACV back on.........
Started car. NO high idle. NO engine revving. It sounds brand new.
Unreal.
I am sure later it will F with me and start revving but what a weird hour or so!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
11-05-2022, 03:10 PM
