My gears wont lock when I shift them. :[
My gears wont lock when I shift them. :[
So my 03 tl-s' tranny is already jerking and failing but thats not the problem. The shift knob area wont hold on R, N, D5, and D4. It doesnt make the click that holds it at that gear so sometimes Im in between N and D5 which means Im not goin anywhere, and if I hold my shift knob, it somtimes drops from D5 to D4.
Anybody have this problem? Never seen this before.
Anybody have this problem? Never seen this before.
Do auto trannys have syncros like manual trannies? My old eclipse, the stick would pop out of gear constantly, was getting ready to have the tranny replaced, but found out all the synchros were fried.
Good luck OP.
Good luck OP.
Well the SS mode works as far as shifting the knob up and down, but I don't use it because the up shift doesn't always shift with one shift, sometimes I need to do it 2 times to get it out of 1st to 2nd or 2nd to 3rd. And when I go back to D5, it's extra jerky.
Question: When people replace their trannys, how bad is it, like how do I know when my tranny is gone. Is it literally unfunctional or is it different problems like mines?
Question: When people replace their trannys, how bad is it, like how do I know when my tranny is gone. Is it literally unfunctional or is it different problems like mines?
Last edited by aznccnsh; Sep 21, 2011 at 02:05 PM.
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Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 62
Likes: 2
From: Southeast Iowa (Ottumwa)
Mine still rides and drives fine, it just slips going into 2nd, 3rd, and 4th. Once in gear it holds the gear pretty good. I don't get it above 45 much tho as I don't want to leave town and then have it die on me. I have a transmission on it's way, but still want to be able to drive it to the mechanic once it arrives. Any tow's I can avoid are for the best.
Looking forward to taking it out on the highway and going on nice long leisurely drives once it's fixed.
Everyone's generally starts out somewhat unique, but eventually ends up slipping in the lower gears, and eventually enough crud builds up in the TQ and it either drops to 2nd gear at highway speeds, locks up entirely, or just drops out of gear. Getting it off the road is #1 so that you don't get run over, and then sometimes letting it sit off for approx 15 minutes lets the crud settle down enough that you can drive it for a short drive to hopefully get where you are going.
Not all end up that way tho, so don't think the car is going to kill you, just prepare for the worse and hope for the best.
Seat belts are extremely critical during this period if you need to keep driving it. And keeping cars off your rear end as well. If someone follows to close, either slow down until they pass, or switch lanes. If it does drop to 2nd or lock up, you are going to have them as passengers if they are to close.
Describe the symptoms better if you can, yours may not necessarily be a transmission issue. Are you getting any check engine codes? Do you see the RPM's rev up when shifting up or down? Does it ever seem to go into neutral and then slam into gear? These are some of the symptoms of a transmission issue. Some people notice a long pause when shifting from park to reverse, or going from reverse to drive.
They don't all die the same, tho most die for the same reasons.
Check your fluid levels too, 15 minutes of highway driving, pull off on a flat surface with the car off and check the fluid, it should be between the 2 dots. Also check the color and smell, it should be bright red and not smell burnt.
Post back with more info if possible.
You might just be lucky and the locking pin that holds the gear shift in place might be broke, the trans may be fine. If it's wobbly from the vibrations from driving, it's possible its just moving enough to make it think you wanted to change gears.
BTC
Looking forward to taking it out on the highway and going on nice long leisurely drives once it's fixed.
Everyone's generally starts out somewhat unique, but eventually ends up slipping in the lower gears, and eventually enough crud builds up in the TQ and it either drops to 2nd gear at highway speeds, locks up entirely, or just drops out of gear. Getting it off the road is #1 so that you don't get run over, and then sometimes letting it sit off for approx 15 minutes lets the crud settle down enough that you can drive it for a short drive to hopefully get where you are going.
Not all end up that way tho, so don't think the car is going to kill you, just prepare for the worse and hope for the best.
Seat belts are extremely critical during this period if you need to keep driving it. And keeping cars off your rear end as well. If someone follows to close, either slow down until they pass, or switch lanes. If it does drop to 2nd or lock up, you are going to have them as passengers if they are to close.
Describe the symptoms better if you can, yours may not necessarily be a transmission issue. Are you getting any check engine codes? Do you see the RPM's rev up when shifting up or down? Does it ever seem to go into neutral and then slam into gear? These are some of the symptoms of a transmission issue. Some people notice a long pause when shifting from park to reverse, or going from reverse to drive.
They don't all die the same, tho most die for the same reasons.
Check your fluid levels too, 15 minutes of highway driving, pull off on a flat surface with the car off and check the fluid, it should be between the 2 dots. Also check the color and smell, it should be bright red and not smell burnt.
Post back with more info if possible.
You might just be lucky and the locking pin that holds the gear shift in place might be broke, the trans may be fine. If it's wobbly from the vibrations from driving, it's possible its just moving enough to make it think you wanted to change gears.
BTC
Last edited by BillThyCat; Sep 21, 2011 at 04:33 PM.
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Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 81,385
Likes: 3,068
From: Appleton WI
Mine still rides and drives fine, it just slips going into 2nd, 3rd, and 4th. Once in gear it holds the gear pretty good. I don't get it above 45 much tho as I don't want to leave town and then have it die on me. I have a transmission on it's way, but still want to be able to drive it to the mechanic once it arrives. Any tow's I can avoid are for the best.
Looking forward to taking it out on the highway and going on nice long leisurely drives once it's fixed.
Everyone's generally starts out somewhat unique, but eventually ends up slipping in the lower gears, and eventually enough crud builds up in the TQ and it either drops to 2nd gear at highway speeds, locks up entirely, or just drops out of gear. Getting it off the road is #1 so that you don't get run over, and then sometimes letting it sit off for approx 15 minutes lets the crud settle down enough that you can drive it for a short drive to hopefully get where you are going.
Not all end up that way tho, so don't think the car is going to kill you, just prepare for the worse and hope for the best.
Seat belts are extremely critical during this period if you need to keep driving it. And keeping cars off your rear end as well. If someone follows to close, either slow down until they pass, or switch lanes. If it does drop to 2nd or lock up, you are going to have them as passengers if they are to close.
Describe the symptoms better if you can, yours may not necessarily be a transmission issue. Are you getting any check engine codes? Do you see the RPM's rev up when shifting up or down? Does it ever seem to go into neutral and then slam into gear? These are some of the symptoms of a transmission issue. Some people notice a long pause when shifting from park to reverse, or going from reverse to drive.
They don't all die the same, tho most die for the same reasons.
Check your fluid levels too, 15 minutes of highway driving, pull off on a flat surface with the car off and check the fluid, it should be between the 2 dots. Also check the color and smell, it should be bright red and not smell burnt.
Post back with more info if possible.
You might just be lucky and the locking pin that holds the gear shift in place might be broke, the trans may be fine. If it's wobbly from the vibrations from driving, it's possible its just moving enough to make it think you wanted to change gears.
BTC
Looking forward to taking it out on the highway and going on nice long leisurely drives once it's fixed.
Everyone's generally starts out somewhat unique, but eventually ends up slipping in the lower gears, and eventually enough crud builds up in the TQ and it either drops to 2nd gear at highway speeds, locks up entirely, or just drops out of gear. Getting it off the road is #1 so that you don't get run over, and then sometimes letting it sit off for approx 15 minutes lets the crud settle down enough that you can drive it for a short drive to hopefully get where you are going.
Not all end up that way tho, so don't think the car is going to kill you, just prepare for the worse and hope for the best.
Seat belts are extremely critical during this period if you need to keep driving it. And keeping cars off your rear end as well. If someone follows to close, either slow down until they pass, or switch lanes. If it does drop to 2nd or lock up, you are going to have them as passengers if they are to close.
Describe the symptoms better if you can, yours may not necessarily be a transmission issue. Are you getting any check engine codes? Do you see the RPM's rev up when shifting up or down? Does it ever seem to go into neutral and then slam into gear? These are some of the symptoms of a transmission issue. Some people notice a long pause when shifting from park to reverse, or going from reverse to drive.
They don't all die the same, tho most die for the same reasons.
Check your fluid levels too, 15 minutes of highway driving, pull off on a flat surface with the car off and check the fluid, it should be between the 2 dots. Also check the color and smell, it should be bright red and not smell burnt.
Post back with more info if possible.
You might just be lucky and the locking pin that holds the gear shift in place might be broke, the trans may be fine. If it's wobbly from the vibrations from driving, it's possible its just moving enough to make it think you wanted to change gears.
BTC
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Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 81,385
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From: Appleton WI
So my 03 tl-s' tranny is already jerking and failing but thats not the problem. The shift knob area wont hold on R, N, D5, and D4. It doesnt make the click that holds it at that gear so sometimes Im in between N and D5 which means Im not goin anywhere, and if I hold my shift knob, it somtimes drops from D5 to D4.
Anybody have this problem? Never seen this before.
Anybody have this problem? Never seen this before.
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Team Owner
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I agree kris- had a feeling on the actual electrical shifter contacts,,under the shifter
any liquid there can mess you up (dont ask how I know)
a can of CRC cleaner with the long straw shoved thru the shifter- and around the plastic plate to get under that plate-- may remove contaminents,, if thats happened
any liquid there can mess you up (dont ask how I know)
a can of CRC cleaner with the long straw shoved thru the shifter- and around the plastic plate to get under that plate-- may remove contaminents,, if thats happened
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Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 62
Likes: 2
From: Southeast Iowa (Ottumwa)
I didn't mean fine as in long term, I meant fine as I can still drive the 1-2 miles to and from work while I wait for my transmission to get delivered. Mine has never completely stopped working. Sorry I wasn't more clear.
No havent really spilled anything there. Just all of a sudden one day the gears wouldnt lock on that indent spot.
I just wanna ask to verify some tranny symptoms I have here cuz the tranny threads are so long.
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you're definitely going to have to get your tranny replaced sooner or later curtis... and you still don't stop the car completely when you reverse and go back to D! 
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depends if yours was ever replaced under warranty with a post 2005 case design
local shops rebuild your trans usings its current case with new parts where needed and some of your current used parts recycled back into the unit, for 2000-2500 $
acura gets $4000+! for the new design case with a mix of used and new parts inside
used TL trans- not on your life~ why is it going to be any better than what you have?
used accord or oddessy trans--being tested by several ziners now with good results
local shops rebuild your trans usings its current case with new parts where needed and some of your current used parts recycled back into the unit, for 2000-2500 $
acura gets $4000+! for the new design case with a mix of used and new parts inside
used TL trans- not on your life~ why is it going to be any better than what you have?
used accord or oddessy trans--being tested by several ziners now with good results
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From: SoCal SGV 626
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