Issue after hard braking
#1
Issue after hard braking
Well here's the story, someone pulled out in front of my and I had to slam on my brakes from 40mph to 0, right before it came to a complete stop there was this loud POP that came from the driver side and ever since when I break I have the pop when braking from just about any speed, it's always there. I didn't hear it when backing into my driveway but going forward I can for sure hear it and maybe when quickly turning at slower speeds. All my recent work is both upper control arms, new ball joints, new complete struts(with coil spring, bushings, and strut mount), new tie rods inner and outer, new rotors and pads from brakemotive and that's all I can think of.
Doesn't seem to have a drivability issue but the popping is a little worrying cause it sounds like something is loose or broke
Any ideas?
Doesn't seem to have a drivability issue but the popping is a little worrying cause it sounds like something is loose or broke
Any ideas?
Last edited by 02tlnate; 01-10-2016 at 01:35 AM.
#3
Yea, it's braking fine and nothing seems out of the ordinary, be got an appointment at Costco for a tire rotation, I know some of the people so I'll see if they are cool with me checking it out while they have the wheels off.
#4
https://youtu.be/C_reCXtb1U0
https://youtu.be/_rmfgkZeem4
These are two videos I made
I will say I could feel a small popping movement in the caliper bracket, but the fact that the noise was evident when not only braking but jolting the steering back and forth quickly
Would the caliper bracket move much when turning even if the brakes are not being applied?
https://youtu.be/_rmfgkZeem4
These are two videos I made
I will say I could feel a small popping movement in the caliper bracket, but the fact that the noise was evident when not only braking but jolting the steering back and forth quickly
Would the caliper bracket move much when turning even if the brakes are not being applied?
#5
https://youtu.be/C_reCXtb1U0
https://youtu.be/_rmfgkZeem4
These are two videos I made
I will say I could feel a small popping movement in the caliper bracket, but the fact that the noise was evident when not only braking but jolting the steering back and forth quickly
Would the caliper bracket move much when turning even if the brakes are not being applied?
https://youtu.be/_rmfgkZeem4
These are two videos I made
I will say I could feel a small popping movement in the caliper bracket, but the fact that the noise was evident when not only braking but jolting the steering back and forth quickly
Would the caliper bracket move much when turning even if the brakes are not being applied?
Your problem seems to be related to a lateral movement, not forward or up/down so ball joints/tie rods/loose axle nut/etc.
Do check all nuts and bolts just incase something is loose.
#7
So after a little more investigation with my camera I found out the upper control arm is moving, only one Side is loose. But I tried to tighten it but the bolt was tight as can be, do I have to disconnect the ball joint from the knuckle to get the pressure off or would that matter??
Again it's a brand new control arm and so I hope the bushing isn't messed up but I called and they sent me a warranty replacement free just in case. Regardless this is an obvious safety issue but I will just have to tighten the bolt everyday for the next day or two because I need my car to work and such
And your totally right wasn't what I thought it was, it's definitely lateral
Again it's a brand new control arm and so I hope the bushing isn't messed up but I called and they sent me a warranty replacement free just in case. Regardless this is an obvious safety issue but I will just have to tighten the bolt everyday for the next day or two because I need my car to work and such
And your totally right wasn't what I thought it was, it's definitely lateral
Last edited by 02tlnate; 01-11-2016 at 10:09 PM.
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#8
Nor has it clunked on the pass side on the bumps it did before
#9
So after a little more investigation with my camera I found out the upper control arm is moving, only one Side is loose. But I tried to tighten it but the bolt was tight as can be, do I have to disconnect the ball joint from the knuckle to get the pressure off or would that matter??
Again it's a brand new control arm and so I hope the bushing isn't messed up but I called and they sent me a warranty replacement free just in case. Regardless this is an obvious safety issue but I will just have to tighten the bolt everyday for the next day or two because I need my car to work and such
And your totally right wasn't what I thought it was, it's definitely lateral
Again it's a brand new control arm and so I hope the bushing isn't messed up but I called and they sent me a warranty replacement free just in case. Regardless this is an obvious safety issue but I will just have to tighten the bolt everyday for the next day or two because I need my car to work and such
And your totally right wasn't what I thought it was, it's definitely lateral
Here are the torque specs.
Sounds like another aftermarket bs. You can shim the play out by adding a correct thickness washer inbetween the control arm and the mounting cavity. Thread the washer through the bolt inbetween the arm and the mounting cavity, does not matter which side of the arm the washer is on. Then preload the suspension and tighten it up to the correct torque spec. You can not leave it loose like that long term. It will wear through the bolt.
BTW: You should of caught that during the initial installation. There are virtually no play in all suspension parts. The only place where play is allowed is at the ball joints- about 1/16". Anything over 1/8" of play at the ball joint is considered defective and also puts the vehicle out-of-service by law. Pay closer attention next time. However, nice save!
#10
Here are the torque specs.
Sounds like another aftermarket bs. You can shim the play out by adding a correct thickness washer inbetween the control arm and the mounting cavity. Thread the washer through the bolt inbetween the arm and the mounting cavity, does not matter which side of the arm the washer is on. Then preload the suspension and tighten it up to the correct torque spec. You can not leave it loose like that long term. It will wear through the bolt.
BTW: You should of caught that during the initial installation. There are virtually no play in all suspension parts. The only place where play is allowed is at the ball joints- about 1/16". Anything over 1/8" of play at the ball joint is considered defective and also puts the vehicle out-of-service by law. Pay closer attention next time. However, nice save!
Sounds like another aftermarket bs. You can shim the play out by adding a correct thickness washer inbetween the control arm and the mounting cavity. Thread the washer through the bolt inbetween the arm and the mounting cavity, does not matter which side of the arm the washer is on. Then preload the suspension and tighten it up to the correct torque spec. You can not leave it loose like that long term. It will wear through the bolt.
BTW: You should of caught that during the initial installation. There are virtually no play in all suspension parts. The only place where play is allowed is at the ball joints- about 1/16". Anything over 1/8" of play at the ball joint is considered defective and also puts the vehicle out-of-service by law. Pay closer attention next time. However, nice save!
Now that I'm thinking more and more, I guess it could be possible the metal insert between the arm and the rubber bushing itself could have dislodged and it could be that it's allowing movement like this and the bolt never really loosened as much??
I might be overthinking but just an idea, it is a cheap aftermarket part after all.
And the issue was never there before braking that hard, I put about 350ish miles after replacing everything
#11
https://youtu.be/Rd7Z_bXETmo
I am able to zoom into the video with my iPhone and that's how I figured this all out
And my theory of the metal insert breaking off is correct, if you look closely you will see how the control arm moves completely separate, as the metal insert with bushing stays still, which would explain why the bolt wouldn't tighten anymore because it never came loose! And at the moment of it breaking when I slammed on the brakes would also explain the loud ass popping noise I got!
I am able to zoom into the video with my iPhone and that's how I figured this all out
And my theory of the metal insert breaking off is correct, if you look closely you will see how the control arm moves completely separate, as the metal insert with bushing stays still, which would explain why the bolt wouldn't tighten anymore because it never came loose! And at the moment of it breaking when I slammed on the brakes would also explain the loud ass popping noise I got!
#13
Hell yea! Wouldn't of ever thought this would have been the issue, unfortunately the new part won't be here to Thursday but fortunately if I am cautious driving and only going to school and work I should be ok until I have free time Saturday to put on the part