Incinerary

Hello Everybody! I've been following Acurazine for a couple years now and recently decided to make an account! And to start things off, I made a video on how to clean your Transmission Solenoid Screen Filters.

I have a 2002 Acura TL-S with 209,000 miles, with original transmission and engine. I had started having transmission problems when it got really cold outside. It would sometimes slip or be really slow to change gears. Later on, I then got the CEL code P0740 (Code of Death as you guys call it). From there it continued to get worse. Started slipping more, sometimes it just wouldn't want to go into gear at all, and if it did, it was shifting was extremely aggressive. I had done a single 3 quarts transmission drain and fill as well as change the exterior transmission filter, but that didn't seem to help any. So I started driving our backup vehicle.

Being sooooo close to giving up and wanting to do the AV6 swap, I came across a forum page that talked about cleaning the solenoid filters on the 1999 TL and people were claiming that cleaning these tiny filters were fixing these transmission problems people were having. So I went ahead and cleaned mine out, in which one of them was very dirty and clogged up, and now my transmission is working like a charm!! I've put on 150 miles since cleaning the filters and so far the check engine light has NOT come back on, no more slipping, and no more slow or aggressive shifts! So I'm really hoping that this was the problem and that it continues working!

From what I understand, the 1999 transmission is different than the other 2nd Gen TL's and I saw a lot of people were asking about it. So I made a detailed step by step video showing where everything is and what to do. I hope this helps!!!

I will post updates on how the transmission is doing every couple hundred miles.

01acls

Great pees are looking for this, will let them know.

01acls

Sorry wrong thread.

Chojun

DUDE. You are my hero. I've been looking for this info for a long time. I will probably do this next weekend, thanks!

Incinerary

500 miles since cleaning the filters and still running strong! I'll update again at 1000 miles.

01acls

You are one lucky SOB. LOL

Thanks for the update.

HairyMonkey019

iTrader: (7)

I'll try this out and see if this helps me with my issues as well.
Very informative, a little over done, but definitely worth watching.


Key points:

8:30_ Top solenoid removal

12:00_Cleaning

13:40_Bottom solenoid removal

Skirmich

I don't want to rain on your parade BUT a few key questions:

What made your Solenoid Screens to Clog?
Why your ATF is so dark?

What I understand from this thread is that your 3rd gear clutch pack released so much Debris from slippage that it clogged your 1st/2nd gear Solenoids making it unable to go to drive. I'm sorry but cleaning your 1st/2nd Solenoid wont make your 3rd Gear Clutch pack recover all the material lost, If those solenoids got dirty and clogged is because of the debris, So your 3rd gear clutch packs are essentially wear out. Once the 3rd gear clutches loses enough material it will completely die.

This is basically a band aid fix to keep you going for some more time OR lack of maintenance made those solenoids clog which can be totally unrelated to the Trans Issue. P0740 means debris in the TQ Solenoid, Debris is almost a sign from god of a wear out 3rd gear clutch pack.


IN ANY CASE! I would not rule out the AV6... Debris = DEATH.

01acls

LOL Sqirm, that's just wrong. What kind of animal are you?

Skirmich

:adds grumpy cat pic here:

HairyMonkey019

iTrader: (7)

TIPS:

-You do NOT need to remove the airbox. Airbox is not in the way of anything by any means.

-BEFORE you do anything it is best to have washed the engine down on that side, whether it be via spray bottle with water in it or with air. This will help any debris from falling into the openings.

-Swivel sockets/joints aren't necessary, did the whole thing without it.

Incinerary

Well, I could only assume it's a buildup of debris over the last 210,000 miles (which is pretty good for the original transmission!), or maybe the 3rd gear clutch wear as you mentioned. I'll admit, I hadn't changed the tranny fluid in about 40,000 miles prior to this. I already did a single 3 quart change, and I'll probably do another one sometime soon now that it's been a couple hundred miles. I just don't wanna "shock" the transmission with all this new fluid at once, as I've read on another forum page.

But yeah, knowing how prone these tranny's are to failing, I'll definitely be planning on doing the AV6 swap when the time comes, just trying to keep this one running as long as possible.

Thanks for the insight Skirmish!!! And Thanks for the tips HairyMonkey019!!!

01tl4tl

a new external filter, and finish getting it on the new spec: DW-1 atf
The new fluid contains cleaners and the old filter will probably be nearly full

the shock you have read about is the cleaners hitting a weak system and the last of the gunk holding the clutch particles to their plates gets washed away~!

Chojun

I pulled my solenoids off today and inspected them, the screens were all clear, on both. I don't know if it's my basic multimeter to blame or not but the ohm readings on the 3 connectors ranged from 5.5 to 6.0. Not sure if that signals a potential problem or not..?

It's good at least to know that the system is running clear of debris. From the looks of it I should be able to run this transmission for a while longer after a clean filter and solenoid screens after 60k miles on the trans.

One lingering issue over the last 4 years is that I think the shift cable wasn't adjusted right after the rebuild, are there any tips on how to get that adjusted (I don't even know where it is)? I have to wiggle the shifter before it will let me go from N to R (when stopped). Sometimes the N indicator won't light up, as well as D3.

01acls

01acls

Chojun

Thanks 01acls!

BTW, I just learned that the Ohm test method shown in the video is NOT the correct way to test these solenoids.

The correct way is to place the black lead on the solenoid housing and the red lead on the connector lead. There are 2 leads in each solenoid and they need to be tested separately. The reading should be between 12 - 25 ohm.

randomwalk101

great video instruction...but I'm all nauseated now.

Chojun

I just need to correct the record on this - the video IS correct. The resistance should be ~5 Ohm.

ErickUa5

Beware 99 TL guys, One of the cooler lines will be in the way of the A/B linear solenoids.
What I did to get around that is by loosening the 17mm banjo fitting and slightly bend the line to get the 2 bolts off the solenoid. If your not comfortable doing that then your going to have to remove a lot of stuff to get to those 2 bolts, Long extension is a must.

01acls

FYI...

Lock-up Control Solenoid Valve/Shift Control Solenoid Valve A is tested terminals to the body.

Wheatfield777

Thanks so much Incinerary!! My 2002 Acura MDX was experiencing the same issues. It took forever to shift into reverse, and when accelerating, it wouldn't shift into 3rd, 4th, or 5th if under torque. I'd have to let the vehicle coast until the transmission finally went into the next gear. At highway speeds, it would stay in 5th unless I started going up a hill and had to press the gas pedal down a little. It would slip into neutral every time. When slowing down for a corner, I'd have to accelerate slowly to give it time to find the lower gear.

I had already replaced the filter on the top of the transmission and performed a 3x3 fluid change. It didn't help although, it was definitely past due.

Today I removed both the upper and lower solenoids. I resistance tested them as well as actuated them with 12vdc. They both worked and were within specs. The upper solenoid's center screen was mostly blocked and the lower solenoid's screen was completely blocked! I blew them all out and reinstalled the solenoids. The car shifts perfectly now, even down shifting on the freeway! I'm very excited that I may have saved the money of a shop having to replace the transmission. Thanks so much for your post.

Bell_1821

Thanks again for the video, wasn't hard at all.

Mine was pretty clean

Bell_1821

Thanks again for the video, wasn't hard at all.

Mine was pretty clean

thoiboi

This thread actually gave me the idea to clean my solenoids on my 6th gen accord beater to add more life to it.


Thanks for the tips!

DJL03TLS

Our 02 has started to slip(212k). Changed the tranny filter. Will clean the solenoids and drain 1/3 at a time.

northsantiam

Did the flush 4 times, cleaned the solenoids and filters. Had the torque convertor code come back twice but after clearing code last time have went over 1000 miles with no issues or codes. This thread was super helpful.

AeroRamer

[QUOTE=Wheatfield777;15877109]Thanks so much Incinerary!! My 2002 Acura MDX was experiencing the same issues. [...]
Today I removed both the upper and lower solenoids.[...]

I am not sure where the parts are in the 2002 MDX. I think the uper is just under the battery tray but cannot remove the last tray screw to get more access to the area. Any tips?

AeroRamer

Is the tranny solenoid housing the part with the brown plug in the picture?

.

AeroRamer

Ok. Found and removed both the upper and lower solenoid housings. Only the middle screen on the upper was slightly dirty but not by much. All others on both the upper and lower where clean.

The upper housing was stuck and I had to pry it out. The gasket was stuck to it and little sections were found on both sides so I am going to order a new one. The lower housing was straightforward to remove. The gasket was glued to the transmission side but I was able to separate in one piece. It was also stuck to the cover side but again was able to remove it. I am going to order a new one as well.

The most difficult part for the 2002 MDX was to get the last screw out of the metal battery tray. There are to steel lines that go over the solenoids that I thought I had to remove to get the upper housing. But the housing can be removed by just loosening the bracket that hold these lines and tilting the back of the housing up.

AeroRamer

Here is how it looks with all the parts out.

​​​​​​​

Saudade

If you haven't finished, I suggest you replace the trans filter while you have it all apart. The filter is that black cylinder just above the solenoid in this picture.

AeroRamer

Yep. It is already out. Picking up the new filter today at NAPA and waiting for the o-ring to come in in the mail. I noticed no debris coming out of the residual oil. Oil was clean because I replaced the fluid back in April of this year. I did the method where yo remove the outlet hose and run the car until the fluid comes out clean. Went through about 10 qts of oil. I did not replaced the filter at that time because of where it was located. I was not ready to get all the parts out of the way to get to it. I am debating whether to change the transmission fluid again.

Chris Armstrong

does the screens go facing down or facing up

AeroRamer

Let me see if I can explain it right. The screen is inside a the tube. The are closer to one of the tube end. When placing the tube on the housing cover you remove, the screens will be at the top of the tube, Hope that helps.

Incinerary

Wow, it's been forever since I've been on this thread! Over 22,000 views here and 271,000 views on youtube! I'm glad this was able to help so many people! Just to give you all an update since almost 4 years ago, I now have 285,000 miles on my car, original engine and transmission never rebuilt. If you ever have questions, post a comment on the youtube video. I still check my notifications there and reply to comments. I also have a couple other videos that you may find useful such as how to change your ATF and ATF filter. My number 1 piece of advice to a long lasting transmission; do a 3 quart ATF drain and fill once every 15,000 miles and change the exterior ATF filter every 30,000 miles.

Sonu

Thanks to Incinerary for his helpful video and post.

My 2005 TL has ~186K miles on it and tranny has been acting up.
I just replaced the tranny filter (boy was it filthy) and the screen filters in the upper and lower solenoid. One was completely clogged, another had some clear deposits on it restricting flow.

Too early to tell if this completely fixed my tranny issues but the $400 spent was much easier than $4000 for a rebuilt tranny and worth a shot. I will report back to the group once I have 10K+ miles since the rebuild.

Thanks again!

Sanjiv

worldspy99

Hello,
A friend of mine is helping me clean the screen filters in the upper and lower solenoid. I have watched the video but had a few questions:
1. Do I need to order any gaskets? If so, does anyone have part numbers handy? Also should I order them from the dealer?
2. External transmission filter, what brand to get?
Thank you.

worldspy99

Cleaned the screen filters - they weren't too dirty on the solenoid.
Also drained the fluid and replaced it with 3 quarts of fresh Honda ATF.
There was a lot of gunk attached to the magnetic bolt. Car seems to run and shift a lot better. Also replaced the front engine motor mount and I believe that helped some of the jerkiness with the transmission as well.

Thank you to everyone for their tips on this thread.

Acura 2000 TL with Navigation and 172K miles.

SaucyM

Does anyone know the torque specs for the bolts on the upper “dual” and lower “single linear solenoids?