Help! Heater fail and 24 degrees outside......

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Old 01-25-2011, 09:22 PM
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Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
go to acura and buy the `update blower motor wire kit` list price 20 bucks~
thats your problem- unless it took another part out with it
Fries--- whats the correct name of that part please?

anyone have the part# on the wire kit?

who had it for 7 dollars- share the name please
post #25 has the tsb in it actually with the part number

Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
the most secure connection is solder,
but if you have normal connectors use them
To stagger is so the splices dont sit right next to each other, each is down from the wire next to it (had to do similar job on my Honda bike)

Mostly is a space saving thing, keeps the bundle size down
but also keeps extra heat from building - the splices create resistance that wasnt in the original planning~

use shrink wrap tubing- if you have it- to cover the work, or electrical tape will do in a pinch
soldering is the preferred method, with shrink tubing over it

as far as staggering, yes main thing for it is to keep the harness size down, so it does not get to thick in one spot


but here is the thing though, about the repair for the blower motor harness; NOTHING has to be soldered or crimped, you actually just depin the connectors, then stuff in the new ones in the spots, where the old ones where
Old 01-25-2011, 09:28 PM
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Originally Posted by totaledTL
OIC- good luck w/ the used motor. How much $?
and what says the used motor is not partially burned/melted at the connector, but it was PROBABLY CHEAP though
Old 01-26-2011, 02:50 AM
  #43  
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sometimes the pin connectors are damaged- that might be why acura says splice the line in
and the wires in the kit being longer, to reduce strain at the connector

fries not everyone reads back thru a thread to find post 25 and the part numbers etc
So I asked to give you an opportunity to be right!! and contribute again!!
keep the info up front for noobs to find
Old 01-26-2011, 07:03 AM
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Originally Posted by friesm2000
...as far as staggering, yes main thing for it is to keep the harness size down, so it does not get to thick in one spot...
That's a secondary concern, one that often doesn't matter unless space is an issue. Primary concern is to reduce the chance of shorts. & it loooks better too, for those who step back and admire their work when finished-
Old 01-26-2011, 08:05 AM
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Got the used motor and new harness plug in last night. Wow - I forgot how good our blower actually works. And I will now change my cabin air filter on a more regular basis - that thing was nasty!. All said and done ( excluding cabin air filter ) $20 for the used motor and the harness. Thanks for all the help and insight on this, Acura wanted something like $475. And in their defense- that is a pretty tight spot to work in and not to comfy.
Old 01-26-2011, 08:09 AM
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Have a buddy that works at a shop that handles all used and remanufactured parts. He grabbed it off the shelf, inspected it and put some power to it before I grabbed it. So far so good
Old 01-26-2011, 11:58 AM
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Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
sometimes the pin connectors are damaged- that might be why acura says splice the line in
and the wires in the kit being longer, to reduce strain at the connector

fries not everyone reads back thru a thread to find post 25 and the part numbers etc
So I asked to give you an opportunity to be right!! and contribute again!!
keep the info up front for noobs to find
because the wires where too short to begin with, and it strains the connector at the blower motor, not further up in the harness, which is where they want you to depin the old ones, and push in the new ones, so there should be basically no stress on those connectors ever

BUT YES the domestics like to have you spilce (actually alot of times, butt connectors, with built in shrink tubing are included in the new pigtail kit) in new connectors when they f@ck up also

Originally Posted by totaledTL
That's a secondary concern, one that often doesn't matter unless space is an issue. Primary concern is to reduce the chance of shorts. & it loooks better too, for those who step back and admire their work when finished-
that too... , and
Old 01-26-2011, 07:34 PM
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yeah mine's fixed.......
Old 01-26-2011, 09:42 PM
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what did yours require-
since you started this thread thats ended up being pretty helpful!
Old 01-27-2011, 01:41 PM
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mine just required the sub harness..... longer wires helped with keeping the connector from being in a bind.... took some work to get the connector off of the blower motor but after that install was easy.... didn't even have to take glove box out......
Old 01-27-2011, 01:43 PM
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but did order a new cabin air filter though.... i'm thinking it being clogged and putting strain on the blower didn't help with bad harness connection and overheating....
Old 01-27-2011, 04:16 PM
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Originally Posted by d4atls
but did order a new cabin air filter though.... i'm thinking it being clogged and putting strain on the blower didn't help with bad harness connection and overheating....
if given enough time a clogged cabin filter can eventually overheat a blower motor, basically by putting that much extra strain on it
Old 02-02-2011, 01:37 AM
  #53  
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looks like a lot of people are having the same issues at the same time. my heater stopped working for a day and then magically was fixed. this car certainly wasn't made to last like other hondas. everything after 80k miles has been down hill, including transmission, motor mounts, window regulators, water leaking into the trunk, stereo, peeling paint, and random other crap. i swear if something breaks again i'm getting a for sale sign. end rant
Old 02-02-2011, 01:26 PM
  #54  
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or the fact that this is when people start depending on their heaters to actually work, because of cold spells

basically beginning of summer, when the high temps starts hitting, and during winter when the bitter cold hits, brings out the true reliability of parts
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