Need an electrical schematic for the heater A/C blower motor. There is a power transistor that controls the speed of the fan motor and I think mine may be bad because the fan motor is OK, but it is not getting power to run even though there are no bad fuses. Anybody out there with a shop manual for a 2001 3.2 TL that could give me a hand? Or any advise about this problem. HELP!!!

 

Can't believe that no one out there has not experienced a loss of blower motor on their TL. Please give us holler if you have experienced the problem. As I said, the motor itself is ok. I had it out and it runs fine. I don't get power to the motor, so the problem has to be with the control. There is a power transistor located right on the blower housing that has a huge heat aluminum heat sink on it. The transistor has four terminals on it, two heavy ones which probably control the power and two lighter ones which do the control, but I don't know how to test it for function. I don't have a electrical schematic to trace the problem. Would appreciate if someone could e-mail me one. Any help would be appreciated from anyone out there.

 

Well I now have the same problem with heater A/C fan not running. It's apparently a consistent problem. The connector plug did get hot enough to start melting, but it still seems to be useful. I checked all fuses and relays and found nothing wrong. I checked the fan motor itself and it's OK. The two wires in the fan motor connector (yellow/black and blue/red) had 12.4 volts and at least 10 amp load potential - ie. there was is no ground to the fan motor. Something has shorted out. I don't know if the speed control is bad or something else behind the dash. It bothers me that it doesn't blow a fuse when it's connected. Changing a wiring harness or taking out the dash to get at a speed control board sounds difficult. How do I get at it? What did you finally have to do to fix it? I also wondered if any of the problem is related to the compressor circuitry.

 

If you take the connector off the motor and are reading 12 voltls on the two terminals then you are having a problem with the connector as it tries to feed power to the heater motor. If your connector got hot it is because you have a bad connection between the female on the harness and the male blade on the motor housing. My fix was to buy a used motor with a piece of the harness plugged into the motor from which I then used the harness pigtail to replace my bad female connector and then everything worked OK. I tried in vain to find just a female connector that would fit the motor connector, but Honda's dimensions of connectors is not something standard in the US. I asked about buying a pigtail from Acura, but they will only sell the complete harness which costs about $150. If you look at the female connector that overheated you will see that the inside mating surface is corroded from the heat and that is what is causing the problem. If you can find a junk car that you can buy the female connector along with a short piece of the harness that you can then cut off your old one and splice on this new one - that would be the easiest and cheapest way for you to solve your problem. I'll give you my e-mail if you have any questions: deblack@wekz.net

 

this is my thread when i had a problel like this https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...highlight=heat

 

Great my ac blower just stopped working tonight! 92 degrees out. Well the AC works but the blower stopped. My guess is either the blower or the transistor that you have pictured. Im gonna look into it tomarrow. Its funny how people have AC all the same time.

 

s--t mine stopped yesterday i changed the fuse and the relay nothing!!!!!
i guess i have to star taking Stuff apart!

 

I just found my problem the other day. The connection to the Blower motor is corroded and burnt. Im going to order a new blower motor but I cleaned the connections and it works occasionally.

 

I just changed my transistor assembly (which is what is in the picture) blower motor relay and checked the fuse. I cant believe the motor itself is bad . any clues?

 

Have you established that you don't have the same problem with the harness connector that several of us have had? To check this, pull off the harness connector to the motor and jumper a 12 volt source to the motor blade connections and see if it will run. That will tell you if the motor is bad or not.

 

I had a similar problem and had to replace my blower motor and transistor.

 

Had that problem 2 years ago during the winter. Black soot stuff all over the inside of it.

What's the number on that transistor?

 

Well, add me to the list of people with a failed blower motor and transistor. It's currently about 95 degrees here in Albuquerque.

I took my 2000 TL to Montano Acura this morning (a really terrific dealership with an excellent service department) and just got a call from Anne, the service rep. Indeed the blower motor and transistor are smoked and it will cost me $221 + tax to get it fixed. I suppose it could have been worse...

John

 

Mine just went out. Thanks so much to all who posted about this which helped me, especially the picture. The fan quit, so I pulled it, and when turning the key on and off, I had 12V at the motor connection, and it would turn about 1/4" when the key was turned on. I ordered a new motor, and it acted the same, so thanks to this thread, I pulled the transistor, opened it, and noticed it has a fuse on the little circuit board, so I plugged in the fan and the transistor hanging from the dash in the floorboard--when I put a screwdriver across the "fuse" connections on the transistor circuit board, the fan started running. So I bought a new transistor for $30 and went with the new fan I already purchased--something made the fuse blow--right? Fixed--thanks again.

 

Same problem, started yesterday, after reading your posts, I moved some wires around, works perfect now. I'm sure it'll mess up again, but at least I've got a fix with tomorrow in the supposed 105 degree range. Thanks for the great info guys.

 

Joe:

Found your post yesterday, and got after my AC blower motor problem today. Your suggestion about shorting across the fuse worked!

Went to local Acura dealer and spent 48.00 for the new circuit board assembly.

Currently working fine!

=buzz=

 

Blower Motor Connection was burned on my car too!





Please make this a sticky!!!

 

Is this the 79330-S0K-A01 TRANSISTOR ASSY. Hereis a link to where I found the part number

http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/...All&vinsrch=no

 

Click Here and you can find it on ebay for $6.50.

 

Wow, everyone seems to have the same problem, add me to the list, can someone please tell me exactley where can I find the blower motor, I know it's on the passenger side right under the glove compartment but not sure where it is exactley, unfortunately I do not have a manual. Thanks

 

Bump

 

Right to the left of the passenger fuse box. Right next to that big group of wires you see in the picture. you have to stick your head under to see it. You'll see the connect that has 4 wires, 2 that are blue with redstipes 1 black and the other blue/green I think. That connection is the connect for the blower motor. Same male and felmale contection I showed in earlier pic.

 

OK, thanks for your help!

 

Just to let you guys know, suddenly the AC and heat started working again, not sure what happened but it's been working great so...........Thanks guys...

 

if you wiggle the wires under the passenger side then the ac may start working. So maybe someone sat on you passenger side and bumped a wire. This initially happened to me also. But as the connection becomes more burned eventually you may have to do what I did.

 

There is a TSB (06-006) for this problem and you need to install a new blower motor sub-harness. P/N 04321-S0K-A00

 

Wow. I am experiencing this problem now and it is a handful. Did anyone replace the blower motor and transistor? I think my blower motor was burned too. Who else has experienced this?

 

Are the replacement parts improved? It would prolong the life of the connector if you can avoid using the fan on full blast as it draws a lot of current on high.

 

I have posted the TSB PDF in a thread titled "this sucks". There is alot of good info in there in regards to this common problem with our cars.

Notice the dirty cabin filter in one of the pics. Those filters should be replaced annually on our vehicles. Good time to do that if you have the glove box out to fix the A/C blower problem. Most parts stores have them available for about $12 apiece.

 

just talked to my dad who fixes electronics for a living:

to test the transistor:

Use your multimeter, set it to "Ohms" to measure resistance. You'll be reading ohms in the 50-5000 ohm range, so set your meter accordingly

1) Peel off the white plastic piece covering the metal housing

2) Identify the transistor wires underneath the printed circuit board, you'll see three thick, stiff wires that are soldered into the circuit board. These lead to the actual transistor that you can't see

3) using your ohm-meter, measure the resistance between all three wires - use all combinations. If all combinations read the same (either high or very low resistance), the transistor is bad. If there are any readings that are either 0 ohms, or very high (50,000 ohms or higher), the transistor is bad. In a good transistor, some of the combinations should be low - say 50 ohms (very approx), and some of the combinations should be high - say 5000 ohms (very approx)

hope this helps.

 

Guys,

I have a 99 3.2tl. My heater does not work and im freezing my ass off going to work in the morning. The AC works perfectly but when I put it on heat it blows cold air although not as cold as the AC cold air.If anyone has experienced this before please help me out? Should I check the fuse,wires,motor,valve? Anything would be nice..Thanks

 

Do you have the link to that service bulletin. I can't find it online

 

99three2l, I have a 99 tl and had this issue a couple years back. The dealership ended up replacing the blower motor. I think I saw one on ebay recently.

 

06-006 Service Bulletin
http://www.2carpros.com/forum/1999-a...-vt177460.html

 

I love this forum. My wifes 2000 TL air conditioner stopped working yesterday and today she thinks I'm a genius. After jumping the fuse with a screwdriver (the blower motor started) and $46 for the new part, she now has air. Thanks for all the great info

 

HI, I have an 03 tl my ac stopped blowing as well (thanks to this forum i knew where to check) low and behold the sub-harness connected to the blower is burnt. But now do i just replace the harness or is the blower burnt as well? How can i test the blower without removing it. If the blower is burnt too does the transistor assy need to be replaced. Dam this is mad confusing got me buggin for real. And what the heck cause this problem in the first place? Please keep it simple. I am thankfull for any help i can get. SNAKE

 

Did you read the TSB mentioned in this thread (post #34)?

 

Add me to the list for this problem. I have the 2002 TL Type S. I thought I would add part numbers, costs and photos to help.

Blower Motor 79310-S0K-A01 $87.44
Transitor 79330-S0K-A01 $43.95
Wire Harness 04321-S0K-A00 $21.15

These are from the local Acura dealer, so I know you can do better buying them online. I was in a hurry and couldn't wait. I was surprised they had all these in stock, must be a popular repair.

Old Blower Motor Connection


Old Wire Harness Connection


Old Wire Harness Connection - Back Side


Transistor Old and New


New Wire Harness Connection


New Motor Connection


New Wire Slice - Bullet Connectors


Completed Wire Spice


Hope these help. My project took about an hour. I removed the glove compartment and did the cabin filters at the same time which made access a bit easier

 

i picked up the wire harness today, im gonna do it later this week, my wire isnt as burnt as yours but hopefully it fixes it

 

this thread is a life saver!!!!