Head stud/bolt stripped?
06-09-2009, 12:44 PM
#1
03' NBP TL-S
Thread Starter
Head stud/bolt stripped?
So I have a problem. One of my bolts/stud (whatever you call it) on the engine head is stripped. I'm talking about where the header bolts up to the head. I tried tightening my header a while ago and one of them on the backside kept turning without getting tighter. How should I approach fixing this? I went to acura and bought the replacement bolt. It has threads on both sides. I wish I had one of those diagrams to show you guys. So do I need to just take off my header and replace the bolt? What tool should I use for the bolt? Are there any serious problems that can occur with this bolt being stripped or loose in my engine? help....
06-09-2009, 02:10 PM
#3
So I have a problem. One of my bolts/stud (whatever you call it) on the engine head is stripped. I'm talking about where the header bolts up to the head. I tried tightening my header a while ago and one of them on the backside kept turning without getting tighter. How should I approach fixing this? I went to acura and bought the replacement bolt. It has threads on both sides. I wish I had one of those diagrams to show you guys. So do I need to just take off my header and replace the bolt? What tool should I use for the bolt?
Are there any serious problems that can occur with this bolt being stripped or loose in my engine? help....
Exhaust Leak Dangers
An exhaust manifold leak can be especially dangerous because it provides a direct path for carbon monoxide to enter the passenger compartment through the cowl vent at the base of the windshield, or past hose and wire grommets in the firewall. The escape of hot gases can also burn nearby spark plug wires and plug boots.
Exhaust leaks should never be ignored because they can have serious consequences any time of year. Because it is colorless and odorless, carbon monoxide gas can be lethal, especially if the windows are rolled up and the deadly gas finds its way inside the passenger compartment.
According to a research report published several years ago by the EPA, as many as one out of every five cars involved in accidents may have elevated levels of carbon monoxide inside the passenger compartment.
WARNING: Even a small exhaust leak that causes exhaust gases to get inside the vehicle can affect a driver's judgment and perception. As little as 0.08 percent carbon monoxide (that's only 800 parts per million) can cause dizziness, headaches, nausea, and bring on stupor in two hours. A one percent concentration level of carbon monoxide can kill a person in less than three minutes!
If you hear any exhaust noise, the muffler or pipes are probably leaking and repairs are needed. Don't put off any repairs that might be needed because delays can be deadly!
An exhaust manifold leak can be especially dangerous because it provides a direct path for carbon monoxide to enter the passenger compartment through the cowl vent at the base of the windshield, or past hose and wire grommets in the firewall. The escape of hot gases can also burn nearby spark plug wires and plug boots.
Exhaust leaks should never be ignored because they can have serious consequences any time of year. Because it is colorless and odorless, carbon monoxide gas can be lethal, especially if the windows are rolled up and the deadly gas finds its way inside the passenger compartment.
According to a research report published several years ago by the EPA, as many as one out of every five cars involved in accidents may have elevated levels of carbon monoxide inside the passenger compartment.
WARNING: Even a small exhaust leak that causes exhaust gases to get inside the vehicle can affect a driver's judgment and perception. As little as 0.08 percent carbon monoxide (that's only 800 parts per million) can cause dizziness, headaches, nausea, and bring on stupor in two hours. A one percent concentration level of carbon monoxide can kill a person in less than three minutes!
If you hear any exhaust noise, the muffler or pipes are probably leaking and repairs are needed. Don't put off any repairs that might be needed because delays can be deadly!
06-10-2009, 02:32 AM
#5
03' NBP TL-S
Thread Starter
Sorry for my noobness... but..
What is a helicoil?
What is the double nut technique?
I really don't want to have a shop do this, but that bolt on the backside is a PITA to reach, and I don't know if I know what i'm doing.
and I do have resonance. I should check if any of my welds are cracked.
and thank you for your inputs..
What is a helicoil?
What is the double nut technique?
I really don't want to have a shop do this, but that bolt on the backside is a PITA to reach, and I don't know if I know what i'm doing.
and I do have resonance. I should check if any of my welds are cracked.
and thank you for your inputs..
06-10-2009, 09:28 AM
#7
Senior Moderator
Take your header off, and pull the bolt out. Are the threads on teh bolt gone or the threads on the head gone? If the head is stripped you will have to retap it and either use a larger bolt or something like a helicoil.
Trending Topics
06-10-2009, 11:13 AM
#8
Hi All :
I just repaired a stripped caliper bracket hole by moving to an imperial sized thread and bolt. In my case, a 10mm stripped bolt hole is exactly the recommended size for a 1/2" fine thread bolt. Before you jump all over me, hear me out.
It seems that when you strip a metric threaded hole, it forms the perfect size for an imperial tap to cut new threads. Imperial sized fall in between metric and means that the new hole is much smaller than moving to the next metric size. You will still need to run a drill down the hole to clean out all the remaining metric threads and possibly drill out the hole on the header/manifold. When finished you have a solution that is stronger (by way of a bigger bolt) than the original. You just need to remember that one of your bolts is an imperial the next time you replace the headers.
Helicoils are fine but I would have some concerns with the heating and cooling of all the pieces and staying tight. That said, most mechanics swear by them.
smartypants
I just repaired a stripped caliper bracket hole by moving to an imperial sized thread and bolt. In my case, a 10mm stripped bolt hole is exactly the recommended size for a 1/2" fine thread bolt. Before you jump all over me, hear me out.
It seems that when you strip a metric threaded hole, it forms the perfect size for an imperial tap to cut new threads. Imperial sized fall in between metric and means that the new hole is much smaller than moving to the next metric size. You will still need to run a drill down the hole to clean out all the remaining metric threads and possibly drill out the hole on the header/manifold. When finished you have a solution that is stronger (by way of a bigger bolt) than the original. You just need to remember that one of your bolts is an imperial the next time you replace the headers.
Helicoils are fine but I would have some concerns with the heating and cooling of all the pieces and staying tight. That said, most mechanics swear by them.
smartypants
06-10-2009, 03:46 PM
#11
Hi hANDY :
Helicoil uses propriatary sizes so you need to buy a special kit that includes the drill, tap and the coil. Take the old bolt and maybe a good bolt to an industrial hardware store (not Home Depot) and they should be able to fix you up.
smartypants
Helicoil uses propriatary sizes so you need to buy a special kit that includes the drill, tap and the coil. Take the old bolt and maybe a good bolt to an industrial hardware store (not Home Depot) and they should be able to fix you up.
smartypants
06-11-2009, 06:28 AM
#12
Drifting
The sets I've used also come with a tool for installing the coil. Definitely get the set, not just a coil so you have everything you need. Did you get the stud out? To try and get it out using the double nut technique you thread 2 nuts onto the threads and tighten them against one another, jamming them. Then use a wrench to turn the bottom nut (the one closest to the block) out, hopefully backing the stud out with it.
Last edited by totaledTL; 06-11-2009 at 06:32 AM.
06-11-2009, 09:02 AM
#13
If you are going to replace the stud, buy some PB Blaster and start spraying the stud now so it will be easier to remove. Spray it every so often to help break up any rust or other material and help lubricate the stud so it comes out easier.
06-11-2009, 11:09 PM
#14
03' NBP TL-S
Thread Starter
this job sounds intimidating. i guess the first thing i need to do is buy a helicoil. my finals are over tomorrow so i'll have to take a look at it this weekend.
06-13-2009, 10:31 AM
#17
Hi AM :
It is intended to be a permanent solution. Think about it as a thread within a thread. One application that should it not be used on is when you need to periodically remove the bolts, for example brake parts. With an exhaust stud, once its in it should not ever need to come out. That said, I still have concerns that the expansion and contraction might loosen the bolt over time and checking for tightness will need to be performed.
smartypants
It is intended to be a permanent solution. Think about it as a thread within a thread. One application that should it not be used on is when you need to periodically remove the bolts, for example brake parts. With an exhaust stud, once its in it should not ever need to come out. That said, I still have concerns that the expansion and contraction might loosen the bolt over time and checking for tightness will need to be performed.
smartypants
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
IBankMouse
1G TSX (2004-2008)
8
06-13-2020 12:53 PM
Eggs999bacon
2G TSX (2009-2014)
10
09-24-2015 10:08 AM
4drviper
3G TL Tires, Wheels & Suspension
2
09-23-2015 07:42 PM
