bagman52

I have a split in the driver side CV boot. Need to replace and was thinking of doing it myself. The axle itself is pretty cheap $60 from Oreillys or Autozone for a new one. I searched the DIY sections and mutiple threads and came up empty. Can anybody provide guidance on what is involved in replacing the drivers side axle. No pics needed just some basic guidance.

Thanks!

YeuEmMaiMai

remove axle nut
remove lower ball joint
turn wheel out
remove axle

reverse to install

totaledTL

That price is probably for a reman. unit, not new.

dudeinaTL

iTrader: (1)

Pretty much what he said, but I'll expand a little bit:

remove axle nut
- unstake the nut if necessary
- with wheels on ground & brakes held, use a 36mm socket, breaker bar, and pipe for extra leverage. I kept snapping 1/2" breaker bars, so a 3/4" drive breaker is what worked for me.
remove lower ball joint
- once you get the nut off, bang the control arm near the joint a couple times pretty hard
- you should grab the $15 ball joint separator from Harbor Freight, or try other methods to separate the ball joint from the knuckle. I tried the methods found through searching, but this separator works everytime...beware cause the loud bang you hear once they separate might surprise you.

turn wheel out
- push the axle out the knuckle...couple hits with a rubber mallet should be enough
remove axle
- you need to get the fork out the way...take the bolt/nut out the fork/control arm connection
- pry the axle out the tranny using a pry bar

When reinstalling, don't torque the shock fork bolt/nut down until the wheels are on the ground. And don't forget to use a new spindle nut & stake it - 180 ft/lbs.

Regarding the cheap AutoZone axles...they're cheap but at least they have a lifetime warranty. Once it breaks, just get an exchange.

bagman52

Perfect, exactly what I needed. Thank you both.

The reman is $59 and the new is $69. I am going with new.

01tl4tl

NAPA has great NEW units even if a few dollars more

Do you really want to have to repeat the job, and the risk of failure...

RUF87

While you're on this subject . . .

I'm replacing my axles as well. They are EMPI axles (not rebuilds) and there's one difference that has me wonding what to do. The OEM axle has a dampner on it and the new EMPI does not. One of my buddies didn't think it was a big deal . . . assuming that the EMPIs are balanced.

I went with the EMPIs as they are a major manufacturer of axles, so I thought they were a safe choice. Anyway, please chime in with your thoughts on this.

Ruf

bagman52

Well do to time and the fact it was not to much I dropped the car off at the local Good Year to replace the driverside half shaft. They replaced the passenger side for me. Well it turns out the driverside is not as easy as the passenger side. There is not a whole lot of room to work with and they are having a heck of a time removing the axle. They contacted the local Acura dealer and they said that is sometimes the case but did not offer any real solution as to removing it.

Has anyone experienced the issue and have any thoughts on how to extract the axle?

Thanks,

dudeinaTL

iTrader: (1)

Don't see how they could have trouble with the driver's side if they really replaced the passenger-side axle. Is the problem prying it out of the tranny or something else?

fsttyms1

Id find a different shop. There is no difference between the drivers side and the passenger side. They have to remove the shock fork, and they have to separate the lower ball joint. Once those are done they can get the axle out. A shop with a lift should be able to have it out in 20 min or less. Its simple.

01tl4tl

who takes their TL to goodyear for a cv! or anything
corporate shops are the big bendover... with ~not the greatest techs~

look in the phone book ads for a smaller ad with honda-acura listed in what they specialize in
somewhere thats seen a TL for more than tires and throw on brakes

bagman52

I guess I do. Thought $110 was a fair price for the labor and I was able to bring my own part from NAPA. They had no issue replacing the passenger side. To each his own I guess...

Looks like the car is headed to the Acura dealer who installed the transmission. The axle is stuck and can not be removed. Looks like the transmission may have to come out to get the axle out. The theory is the clip on the end of the axle may be damged and preventing it from sliding out. It must have happened when Acura put the last transmission in. Fortunately the transmission is still under warranty.

Wish me luck!

P.S. I have pics but it appears I am not authorized for attachments

bagman52

Turns out the axle is indeed stuck in the differential and Acura is replacing the transmission under warranty. Not sure why it is stuck but apparently it requires removing the transmission to fix it.

I am out the cost of replacing the axle since the boot ripping was not covered under warranty.

Overall I am happy with Acura's handling of this. Having them replace the axle will be a lot more expensive but I get a new transmission.

alittlefishy

Just did the job on a 99 TL. First time for me. Here is what I learned:
(1) get a 3/4 breaker bar and a 3 foot pipe extension to remove the wheel nut;
(2) if you use a ball joint separator tool (I did), just put some tension on it and then whack the control arm. Also, leave the ball joint nut on so you don't damage the threads;
(3) make sure the brake line is not damaged when you move the rotor to extract the shaft (I unscrewed a hold down for more movement);
(4) to INSERT the cv shaft, you have to really force it in; like jam it hard. Just get it lined up by engaging the splines and then push for all you are worth.