gizmobuilder

Have a 99 3.2TL

I replaced my rear tire rotors and pads and had to install a new caliper since my driver's side rear caliper was frozen. Its been about a week and now my rear drivers tire is squeaking/squealing when I turn right, even slightly.
When I turn left it goes away.

It is definitely tied to the rotation of the tire at some point, because it starts out squeaking slowly and then goes faster as I gain speed. Was going to jackup the car when I get home and pop off the tire to see whats up. Any ideas of what I should look for?

I am thinking it could be these fun and dandy problems:

1.) Caliper dragging the pads. If so, how do I fix?

2.) Brake backing plate. I think thats whats its called. (What I saw when I changed rotor) Some thin sheet metal behind the rotor that seems like it could bend easily and rub. Obviously, I could bend it back.

3.) Some other alignment problem, etc. I am wondering if the rear tire mount or something is fuzzed up in general causing all of the problems I had previously. (warped rotor, frozen brake caliper, etc.)

Thanks,
Gizmo(breaker)

fsttyms1

When you replaced the caliper did you grease the pad surface where it fits in the slider and the backing plate with caliper grease? Were there shims that came with the pads?

Also you should look into replacing the other rear caliper. If one was shot the other probably isnt far behind if not there already

gizmobuilder

I greased them up as enthusiastically as I would a bikini model before a photo shoot, on the backs of the shims on the pads. Used those grease packets for brakes from autozone, labelled "brake grease" or something. Hope those weren't just some cheap excuse for grease and were actually the right kind (hi temp).

The other caliper seemed to work okay. I was able to compress it with no problems. The frozen one couldn't even compress with a c-clamp. I may replace it after I figure out whats up with the other one and fix it first

fsttyms1

Did you check to see if the squealer is touching the rotor? Also what pads did you put on? And did you put them on both sides?

gizmobuilder

The pads are duralast ceramic. I put the same pads (new) on the front wheels as they were down to 30% or so. I put new pads on both rear wheels (again duralast ceramic), if thats what your asking. When I put the new pads on, the squealer(wear indicator?) was well away from the rotor as it would have to wear through quite a bit of pad before it got to it. Man I hope thats not it, cuz then I have a severe problem None of the other wheels are making noise, just the one I replaced the caliper on.

I don't think its the wear indicator because the sound is different - the indicators tend to (on my previous integra as well) make what I would describe as this shrill, rasping, metallic sound whenever the pad has worn down to that point. What I am getting is definitely a squeal. Its more like a "shoes on polished gymnasium floor during a basketball game" kind of squeal, just not a chirpy, and a little longer in duration.

gizmobuilder

Turns out the shims that came on the pads aren't enough..I shoulda realized. fsttyms1, you were right. My front pads both had separate shims (separate form the pad itself), and my rear had none. So there was nothing to reuse! I thought the rear pads just didn't have separate shims (from the pad) Dammit. Turns out whoever worked on my rear brakes (previous owner, so who knows) lost them or tossed em.

So the problem is that the caliper is pressing against the rear pad where the little bumps are on the back( I think they are designed prevent the shims from sliding off), making the whole pad cant to one side when the caliper applies pressure. I can tell from the wear pattern on the pad, it is only worn a little on the top part. The bump also put a dent in the face of my brand-new caliper piston. GRRRRRRRRRRR.

So thoroughly pissed at this point, and all auto places being closed, I needed a solution to get me to work. So in a fit of anger I decided to make a shim out of some aluminum sheet. Here is the oh-so-pretty result:







Squeaking is lessened considerably, I think its becuase the pad is worn slightly at a angle, Ill need to wear down to flatness again. After to 25 mile drives, it makes occasional sounds that last a few seconds. They seem to be diminishing. Nothing like the ear-splitting howl from before

I have a shim kit that I ordered today, so will install when it becomes oppurtune. Got it from advance auto for like $11, anybody cares.

Thanks for the help and pointing me the right direction.

01tl4tl

OK STOP- Its not about shims!!!

from that pad pic. I believe you have the 3rd tab, one in the top center of the inner pad, for the rear brakes- just above the A in Dura.
This pad backing plate fits the rsx-- but not TL CL TSX, many companies have this error!

Thats causing the button to hit the caliper piston and the pad sits crooked- causing contact on only half of it's surface.

Solution: Grind off that tab, then all will be well and the noise should go away
Get it flush!!
Dont be overly enthusiastic greasing, the grease should lube the contact points- not be enough to fling off and get on the pads or rotors.

The last thing to do before a wheel goes on-- wipe the rotor with carb cleaner and a rag-
no excess grease!!

01tl4tl

Note: The tab/buttons are for factory mounting of things like the squeeler arm, and activating the caliper on those pistons with 4 cuts in them, and on certain models it works the park brake!

It was only recently discovered that its a major issue, with many makers using the same part number to put their pad material on. Some brands have 3rd tap and some dont

The average driver will not know until the rear caliper is removed for some reason- and then the inner pads wear and contact are visable. thats going to be years from now~
Its not evident on the outside portion.

The backing plate shims are held on by the clips built into them.
Dont sweat if your pads didnt come with any
Some will have new ones gluid on already, others dont call for them at all.
My TL has no shims at all!

gizmobuilder

That's why I made the shim. The shim I have added is the same thickness as the bump. I thought maybe a second factory shim brought it flush, and I just didn't have it. I'll pull off the pads an grind that bump flush.

As a side note, what actually pulls the pads on our cars away from the rotor when you stop braking? Is there anything that tensions them back and keeps them from dragging? I guess this is a more general brake theory question. Or do the just "go loose" when you let off the brake. I thought maybe it was that Y-shaped spring clip in the caliper, but that just looks like it pushes down on the pad and prevents it from sliding around.

01tl4tl

the homemade shim wont fix the fact of where the bump hits, is ON the caliper piston bottem (operating!!!) edge-
grind it flush to the backing plate, so nothing remains of it, then smooth it out!!!,
it does not belong on the TL pad at all
Dont make your own spacers/shims- DO use brake caliper grease and put it together.
The calipers center spring clips are tensioners to keep the pads from rattling around.
The springy slider clips on the ends of the caliper bracket, where the pads ends fit in- those need to be clean and lubed. The pads move in and out approx 1 Mil !!! during operation on that slider track
thats not much total movment~ and when you release the pressure from the calipers, the motion of the rotors will kick the pads back out the 1 mm to resting position
wiki or google, brake operation for hydraulic systems- hygroscopic is the key word to learn.

bibledriver

Yes, loosely speaking.

Also, I agree. These are your brakes were talking about! I wouldn't recommend doing ANY homemade remedy/upgrade for them. VERY risky. I would do as stated above: grind upper tab off, then use designed built in shim only with grease on backing pad. This will yeild proper results

totaledTL

Wish I had known about these details when I had my rear brakes repaired- now I wonder what exactly was put in there. The guy said "we've had problems before getting the right parts". Geez....

01tl4tl

Its easy for you, or the shop that did the work- to pull a rear caliper and look for the extra tab on the inner pad
Thats the problem!
Easy fix too~

totaledTL

Well it's not making any sort of noises or doing anything strange so hopefully they used the right pads.

01tl4tl

Mine had Hawk HPS pads on the rear and it seemed to stop fine- then I removed the caliper to do some painting and found the inner side of the rotor covered in rust- across only half its width!
Ground off the offending tab- cleaned the rotor and everything was good.
Thats why I say it could be years before anyone knew they had this problem.
Parts get installed, rear brakes do far less work than the fronts,,,certainly the correct parts were in the correct box---someone has checked to make sure these work-----

Not many of us pull the entire caliper off and do a real brake inspection once a year or more, to ever be able to see the uneven wear across the face of the pad and the rotor.
Can also give a brake shake that makes no sense to the logic bound----
How can my brand new everything have any problems!!!!