CEL, TCS, High idle after thermogasket install..
#1
CEL, TCS, High idle after thermogasket install..
Just like the title says. High idle and the lights after the install. Made sure all was reconnected. Any ideas?? Now idle is real erratic.
#3
which one?? so we can make sure the diy notes it
reset the ecu via clock fuse method for fun = let it relearn how the spacer affect intakes temps,,keeping them lower
First really hothot day-you will be able to tell its making power as if it were 59 degrees out (standard seal level pressure and temp 59 is used for all dyno measurements- it corrects for real outside temp and air density)
how did the egr system look?
reset the ecu via clock fuse method for fun = let it relearn how the spacer affect intakes temps,,keeping them lower
First really hothot day-you will be able to tell its making power as if it were 59 degrees out (standard seal level pressure and temp 59 is used for all dyno measurements- it corrects for real outside temp and air density)
how did the egr system look?
#4
EGR system was kinda carbon-y but not terrible. 3 cans of seafoam spray cleaner thru it. Took plenums off sprayed and cleaned those and underneath them. The plug I missed was on the bottom of the TB. The black one that's towards the front of the car. It blended in so at a quick glance everything looked fine but w a shop light under there I spotted it instantly. Plugged it back in and pulled the ecu fuse and everything was great after that. I used a oil change pan under the intake to catch all the cleaner and made sure I was in an area that didn't matter about the overspray of the cleaner as well. Install was simple and if just installing it would have been quite fast but with the cleaning every spot I could reach it took upwards of 5 hours w beer and bathroom breaks of course. Between the spacers and the power I've regained by cleaning all the carbon and crud out of my intake I can feel a noticeable difference. I'd definitely recommend this upgrade. Just a side note: if u have a CAI, loosen the bolt inside the fender so it can move freely. When you try to reattach it to the TB you'll understand why. Also, you may need to adjust your throttle cables, quite simple just need 12mm wrench. Take any slack out and snug the bolts back down.
#5
correction
LEAVE a little slack in the cables--depress with your thumb ~1/3 to 1/2 inch
if too tight they may keep the air plate from closing fully at idle, really mess with you
You want to observe it fully closed- then have buddy slowly give it full throttle from the pedal- make sure air plate is level- full open when pedal hits the floor
Note: many are finding it wise to retorque the manifold after 200-500 miles
same as you would any old school engine with aluminum/steel combo
LEAVE a little slack in the cables--depress with your thumb ~1/3 to 1/2 inch
if too tight they may keep the air plate from closing fully at idle, really mess with you
You want to observe it fully closed- then have buddy slowly give it full throttle from the pedal- make sure air plate is level- full open when pedal hits the floor
Note: many are finding it wise to retorque the manifold after 200-500 miles
same as you would any old school engine with aluminum/steel combo
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11-15-2015 05:52 PM