can someone help me find out whats wrong
#1
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I just lowered my 02 type s on some springs about 1.5 inch drop and now the car feels shaky especially the front right of my car. Can anyone help tell me whats wrong and how I can fix it that would be really helpful, thank you.
#2
brake application?
#5
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Go back and make sure all the bolts are tight.
Check the shock towers under the hood and make sure all the bolts are tight.
Check the wheel lugs and torque them to 80ft/lbs
Lastly I would get the car up on a lift or on jack stands and rock the suspension and see what's loose
Check the shock towers under the hood and make sure all the bolts are tight.
Check the wheel lugs and torque them to 80ft/lbs
Lastly I would get the car up on a lift or on jack stands and rock the suspension and see what's loose
#7
have you had the alignment done?
Drop it 1.5 inches and it will go toe out and neg camber of up to 1.5 degrees average
the camber is ok there, tell the shop to `set the toe and let it go` when they say it needs camber kits
Drop it 1.5 inches and it will go toe out and neg camber of up to 1.5 degrees average
the camber is ok there, tell the shop to `set the toe and let it go` when they say it needs camber kits
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#8
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but an bad alignment will not really make it shakey though (crappy steering though)
but anyhow how many miles are on your car???, and do you know if the cv axles are still original??? they might be running in and out of the old wear groove when you where at stock height, which is causing the shaking
like i replaced a set of axle with like 250k on them, nothing wrong with them, boots where still intact also, but they so much play in them internally that they were actually causing the wheel to shake (it went away as soon as they were replaced)
but anyhow how many miles are on your car???, and do you know if the cv axles are still original??? they might be running in and out of the old wear groove when you where at stock height, which is causing the shaking
like i replaced a set of axle with like 250k on them, nothing wrong with them, boots where still intact also, but they so much play in them internally that they were actually causing the wheel to shake (it went away as soon as they were replaced)
#9
toe way out after drop is common and will shake the car as it tries to split itself in half while going down the road
Tires are pointed out not straight ahead!!
the alignment shop can ck all the other steering parts for you- they do that to be sure an alignment is even possible- no loose or bad parts
and they will happily sell any parts and labor to make it align!
Many places not familiar with lowered cars.. or educated by azine type customers... will try to say to must have camber kits -you are past the 1 degree neg camber limit-ptttttt 25k miles on my tires and no camber ill effects at neg 1.4 degrees
Tires are pointed out not straight ahead!!
the alignment shop can ck all the other steering parts for you- they do that to be sure an alignment is even possible- no loose or bad parts
and they will happily sell any parts and labor to make it align!
Many places not familiar with lowered cars.. or educated by azine type customers... will try to say to must have camber kits -you are past the 1 degree neg camber limit-ptttttt 25k miles on my tires and no camber ill effects at neg 1.4 degrees
#11
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#12
Have your car lifted up on a service bay rack with front wheels off the floor around 3 ft; Have someone on driver seat;
With engine running, shift to D4 so front wheels should be spinning;
With front wheels spinning check/observe if front tires are out of round or inside of front wheels may be bent.
Maybe just your tires...
With engine running, shift to D4 so front wheels should be spinning;
With front wheels spinning check/observe if front tires are out of round or inside of front wheels may be bent.
Maybe just your tires...
#13
In front Im at teins suggested starting point which gives about 1.5 drop
the rears I had to raise 1/2 inch to get fenderlip clearance for 235s with shocks set on soft
front neg 1.1. 1.4
rear neg 1.4 and 1.1
go figure that! they really are opposite-
I didnt do a wheel to fender lip clearance matching-which might have brought the camber equal side to side, but its so close in reality-- just set them and forget them,
It turns in nice
wore out front tires with toe isssue and some camber wear.
rear tires look great across the tread-even wear..the lighter rear of the car help keeping them good? 25kmiles approx on general uhp 235-45-18s, 01TL, never rotated, I would rather buy 2 tires at a time~
the rears I had to raise 1/2 inch to get fenderlip clearance for 235s with shocks set on soft
front neg 1.1. 1.4
rear neg 1.4 and 1.1
go figure that! they really are opposite-
I didnt do a wheel to fender lip clearance matching-which might have brought the camber equal side to side, but its so close in reality-- just set them and forget them,
It turns in nice
wore out front tires with toe isssue and some camber wear.
rear tires look great across the tread-even wear..the lighter rear of the car help keeping them good? 25kmiles approx on general uhp 235-45-18s, 01TL, never rotated, I would rather buy 2 tires at a time~
#14
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i'm at teins height recommended height currently (like the 13.2 or so to the fenderlip (wih the original fender on the driver side and a replacement Honda fender on the right) to the hub center
even then i was only at like -0.7 on the passenger side and like -1.1 on the driver side, so you must be lower then you really think, but now i am -0.9 on both side since i got adjustable arms, to fix those cross camber issues (now i just gotta fix the cross castor issues lol)
even then i was only at like -0.7 on the passenger side and like -1.1 on the driver side, so you must be lower then you really think, but now i am -0.9 on both side since i got adjustable arms, to fix those cross camber issues (now i just gotta fix the cross castor issues lol)
#15
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iTrader: (4)
then the rear, no idea with original camber, always has had a camber kit
then about those tires not wearing out back, happens all the time, not only lighter to start with, but they also don't have to turn the car either, basically just follow the fronts, which is also less wear for them
and how you don't like to rotate, i wounder what you would do on an awd car (or 4wd when it makes a raquet when engaged) when it takes out the center diff eventually, just did one on a subaru btw, like $1200 to do (with like 700 or something just in parts), now they were good on tires, the solenoid crapped out, and was causing the back end to jump around and such
then about those tires not wearing out back, happens all the time, not only lighter to start with, but they also don't have to turn the car either, basically just follow the fronts, which is also less wear for them
and how you don't like to rotate, i wounder what you would do on an awd car (or 4wd when it makes a raquet when engaged) when it takes out the center diff eventually, just did one on a subaru btw, like $1200 to do (with like 700 or something just in parts), now they were good on tires, the solenoid crapped out, and was causing the back end to jump around and such
#16
If It Floats, Flies, or Four Wheel Drives....
Rent It!
The first repair will cost more than the few weekends you actually needed one
Rent It!
The first repair will cost more than the few weekends you actually needed one
#18
there is no maybe about it- you lower the car you MUST get it aligned
right now its trying to tear itself in half
and if you play with the height later- you must get it aligned again
1/2" change is dramatic to the car in suspension axis and alignment
right now its trying to tear itself in half
and if you play with the height later- you must get it aligned again
1/2" change is dramatic to the car in suspension axis and alignment
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