orgnlprankster7

well my car was acting iffy the past week. i thought it was the o2 sensor, turns out it wasnt. i cannot get the car to rev any higher than 3k rpms in any gear. as soon as i hit 3k the car starts going back and forth from 1-3k and jerks kinda like fuel cutff at redline after the first time i hit 3k the tcs light will turn on and stay on till i turn off the car. also after the tcs light comes on i hear this horrible whistling when i press the pedal. i keep thinking its a vac leak but i cant imagine it would couse this to happend.and i cant seem to find it. all the hoses are connected right. the IM gaskets seem ok since the are new, except the reusable metal one. what could it be??

Insomnia1009

Your Tranny is Fucked. Just had mine replaced a couple of months ago, with the same symptoms. the Acura Dealer should send a tow truck to get it. good luck.

02 TL-p
AEM V2 CAI

fsttyms1

Get the code read while the lights are on. The fact you cat rev past 3k rpm is weird. When that happened me it was teh crank position sensor. You need to have teh codes read by a dealer or something that can get indepth with the scan if you cant get a decent code from a auto parts store

orgnlprankster7

yea i cant rev past 3k in any gear including park! the engine feels very bigged down. i just had my dad drive it and he said it felt like somthing was wrong with the air fuel mixture. its bogged down all the time and hessitates a lot. when i rev it a bit puf of smoke comes out the exsaust. i would take it to the dealer but theylkl prolly charge an arm and leg just to look at it. also i only replaced the o2 sensor in front of the cat, could the one behind do this?

01tl4tl

Other than a muffler shop testing the cat for excess back pressure and trying the rear O2 sensor as we discussed the other day- its gonna require a trip to the pro, whether a private shop with an ex factory tech or the dealer.
Dont go there with the thinking- they are going to bend me over- go there thinking, they will diagnose problem correctly for you

Was there any change after the front sensor replaced
And if they were bad you may have a severly rich loaded engine and needs Seafoam cleanout

fsttyms1

you need to forget about the term "stealer and bending me over" and take it to someone that can accurately read the code. Us not havig a code will do nothing for you, as all we will be doing is guessing just like you. There could be alot of symptoms causing your situation but with out a code we dont know whats the correct fix. Atleast get it read so we can tell you

orgnlprankster7

k ill go do that. im going to have to find some other place than the dealer, they wanted 95 and hour and said it may take 3hours to a day and they charge me as long as its there

orgnlprankster7

alright i took it to autozone again, this time i left the ccar on so the tcs light wouldnt go off. it was throwing 2 codes, both p1129. i looked up the code and P1129 means Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor Circuit Higher Than Expected. so does that mean the map sensors busted?

fsttyms1

Did you mess with the sensor at all? Make sure its connected properly. Its highly possible that the sensor is damaged and needs to be replaced.

Edit:
Going back i see you completely removed it from the intake during your thermo block install. Its very possible you have a leak from that or plain damaged it

orgnlprankster7

i did a search on that code here. and i found that it could also be the IVAC valve, so i took that off and cleaned it and lubed it. then boom RUNS GREAT no problems for a good 20 min drive can pass 3k no prob. but then after i turned off the car let it sit a while i took off and about 5 min it both lights came on again....does this mean that maybee its the ivac instead?

01tl4tl

Go back to where you first changed parts on the car like Kris said- then find the cracked or broken part or leak.
Jumping from one part to the next is not the cure

Perhaps its time for a real pro to diagnose in person
Codes are not answers, they are clues

orgnlprankster7

yea i see what your saying but i checked over and over again for a leak, everything is tight and sealed. the map sensor is physicly in good shape and everything is pluged in correctly. the only time i was able to get releaf is when i cleaned out the ivac valve. which was dirty as hell and nasty, i tried to get everything out but couldnt it was caked and its small area to work with. cleaning that was the only thing that inabled me to go above 3k and make everything run compleatly normal again. untill after a while it came back without warning and i could not go above 3k again. could the mechanics in the valve be bad? its the only thing i can think of besides the map. but again all sensors dont have any physical damage,

orgnlprankster7

i forgot about this thread. i found the problem, turns out it was the MAP sensor(surpise surprise) i picked up and new one and took a drive with no problems at all. thanks everyone for your input