Alternator Questions

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Old 06-21-2011, 06:41 PM
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Alternator Questions

So this past Saturday night while I was driving on the highway, all of my interior lights suddenly dimmed, and the radio shut off....I pulled over on shoulder because i thought i had lost power. (Reminscent of the ignition switch issues i used to experience about 2 years ago (which has been fixed). When i pulled over i realized the car was still running,so i got back on the highway and continued driving, however the lights remained dim. I drove for about another 5 miles until the entire car finally died. Luckily I was doing about 60 mph and was able to coast my way off the nearest exit and park. When I finally stopped i tried to restart, but no luck. It was clicking and would not start. Also all lights were on, and the radio working, but car wouldn't start.

Based on my search of the forum I assume its the alternator, I'm hoping you guys can confirm this. Also if it is the alternator what brand do you guys suggest (does it matter)? In addition if i do have to replace the alternator is it necessary to replace the serpentine belt and tensior?

Thanks in advance guys!

Oh it's a 99 with 139,xxxx.
Old 06-21-2011, 10:37 PM
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first thing Id do is charge up your battery and start the car.

With the car running, Take a digital volt meter and ground the black lead and take the red positive lead and touch the post on the alternator that has the cable going to the battery. Normal charging at idle would be in the range of 13.6-14.2volts ballpark. If it is lower than that and around 12.5 or lower then your alternator is bad.

I believe local auto parts stores will test them as well. But based on your symptoms and being a mechanic, Id say its alternator as well.
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Old 06-22-2011, 03:36 AM
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sounds right

if you can use a battery charger--DO SO

DONT JUMP a dead battery! very sensative things require the proper voltage in the TL or you create problems

if batt is dead-dead, take it to parts store for a free charge and testing
if thats good -put it back in and start the car- drive to parts store for full electrical system test to verify alt and buy part.

think aftermarket or junkyard/auto dismatlers,,be sitting down when you get prices

sometimes driving on a bad alt will take out the battery too- put the big hurt on it using up every last stored amp to run the car for you,,giving its life to get you home/to safe place

Had that occur years ago- car made it to parking lot .5 mile from home,,couldnt ask for much more after 70 miles getting out of the hills with no alt-that teg took some abuse!
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Old 06-22-2011, 06:55 AM
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Thanks guys for the info....I think at this point I'll take out the battery and take it to get recharged and put it back in. Hopefully i'll be able to make it to a shop to get the alt tested....Already spent $160 to have it towed home on Sunday, dont want it to cut off again.

Also, if it turns out to be the alt. is it necessary to change the belt and tensior.
Old 06-22-2011, 09:51 AM
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depends on their condition
more than 60kmiles on belts and I consider them ready for replacement
Old 06-22-2011, 12:57 PM
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at that mileage tensioner wouldnt be too bad of an idea. If/When you get your new belt, save your old one and throw it in the spare tire well as a backup in case you lose a belt later on down the road.
Old 06-22-2011, 02:47 PM
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Consider joining AAA. Approx. $78 membership- 4- 100mi. max tows per yr. You already pd. for > 2 yrs.

Last edited by totaledTL; 06-22-2011 at 02:50 PM.
Old 06-22-2011, 05:18 PM
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@ totaledTL, Looking into to it (AAA)...I also tried to get my insurance to pay, but since I only have liability...I gets Nada.
Old 06-22-2011, 06:36 PM
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yea----same shit happend to me-----shut off car at gas station---started it up and heard a weird ass noise

ended up being the alternator---i got a reman alternator and tensioner and belt at autozone for $213----not bad

fuckin sucks that it went out on me just like that----got it tested at autozone and it started at 13.5 and actually seen it goin down----it went down to 12.2-------good luck man
Old 06-22-2011, 06:49 PM
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Thanks dan:
That's a hell of a deal for all those parts. I have to keep searching.
Old 06-22-2011, 08:40 PM
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the AAA ripoff is: first year you only get 5 miles tow free, not 75
and to get that benefit you must not use the tow part of the service during the first year.. or something like that..its pretty suck IMO- as former member

with progressive or geico and others you can can roadside assist insurance
its 20 bucks a year for the car,,no maps (dont you own a gps by now?)
but 75 mile tow, no questions asked!!
and the normal flat swap battery jump help etc

Ck with your insurance co,,it may require full coverage to get it, but thats worth it in the long run,,look at total cost
Thats My Opinion
Old 06-23-2011, 06:39 PM
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Originally Posted by jayroc76
Thanks dan:
That's a hell of a deal for all those parts. I have to keep searching.

yea thats what i said too----i called the STEALERSHIP and they wanted like almost $400 just for the alternator ----crazy shit huh

but yea good luck with that ----keep us updated on the situation
Old 06-23-2011, 07:00 PM
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www.rockauto.com seems popular with ziners for a good deal on parts
Old 06-24-2011, 07:20 AM
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I've been driving Honda Products for 25 years. Check the brushes on your alternator. They come out the BACK of the alternator. 2 screws. IF they are worn out/just replace them. They wear out/especially if you have high powered radio amps/lights etc. I have had to replace the brushes in both of my former Honda products. Cost $5 and $15 bucks at an alternator shop. You can find them at some auto parts stores. NAPA use to carry them. This might be your solution. U just have to unsolder them and put the new ones in. It's easy. Yea the honda garage here wanted $530 buck to replace my alternator with a rebuilt one. Auto parts stores sell them for $90 bucks. Another rip off at the dealership.
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Old 06-24-2011, 07:21 AM
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woops see you replaced it. Well anyways/just a tip for other ppl here.
Old 06-24-2011, 09:22 AM
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Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
the AAA ripoff is: first year you only get 5 miles tow free, not 75
and to get that benefit you must not use the tow part of the service during the first year.. or something like that..its pretty suck IMO- as former member...
I don't believe that is the case- I did not see anything like that in the guide. Pls. provide a ref.-

You can get a lower priced membersh. ($50 I think) which limits the tow distance to, I think, 10 mi., along w/ some other lesser benefits. The auto ins. was cheaper to boot & I hope the AAA membersh. disc., once applied, will further reduce it.
Old 06-24-2011, 10:41 AM
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@ Luke: I havent replaced my alternator yet. Your suggestion sounds real good and seems to be a cheaper alternative. However, I think i might just straight up replace it.

Any suggestions on a particular brand to get or to stay away from?
Old 06-24-2011, 10:53 AM
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one with a decent warranty from local parts stores--ck oreillys and autozone to start, call napa,

my aaa info is admittedly a few years old, when I had it then dropped and came back to find massive restrictions in the fine print,,wouldnt sell you the good level until 1 year at 85 (50 plus startup fees) and without using more than x number of non-tow type service--ie jump, flat etc, and if you used the tow service---forget the upgrade for next year
now they may have changed it as many insurance companies got into the game, contracting out to places that might say aaa on the truck too!!
competition could have forced them to offer better plans, If I am wrong --sorry
if you use the travel and other discounts aaa is a good deal-
if you need the rare help and a few maps--there are better options, like buy a GPS for the same money!
guess what many gps units come with now??-aaa guidebook info preloaded!!
Old 06-24-2011, 07:06 PM
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the alternator i got from autozone has a LIFETIME warrenty

cant beat that at all man----i pretty sure any parts store will offer the lifetime warrenty though
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