blacka66

99 TL cuts off after turning the key over when i first got the car it did cut off when i was driving it but really didnt take that issue to the head well i replaced the alternator and battery already problem still goes on anybody got any suggestion let me know

twill220

it sounds like the ignition switch is bad. happened 2 me doin 70mph on hiway. u can replace yourself unless u have 270 for the dealer.also try new plugs and hi octane like 93

01tl4tl

99s have a recall for the ignition switch back -acura does it once then you are on your own the next 3 times it fails~
under 50 bucks at many parts stores- see diy thread for help on install

call 1 800 382 2238x5 thats acura care- register as new owner and ask if any OPEN recalls- those needing to be done. need cars VIN

if ign done before- head to parts store

junteschan

In addition to above replies, my suspicion would be clogged or gummed up , carbon build up on throttle body or fuel delivery system wc may be due to using 87 octane pump gas since day1.
What you do is spray your throttle body w a carb cleaner,
pour fuel injector cleaner (such as Techron from chevron) into your tank and gas it up w 91 octane fuel only.
Let us know what happened.

01tl4tl

techroline is good stuff, and you have to read the label carefully to find MAX allowed dose, and it may take 2-3 bottles,,do not use as bottle to full tank and expect great results.

redline SI-1 is awesome for fuel injectors and general fuel system cleaning

or 1 can seafoam in half tank will clean everything bad the 87 left behind

while all that affects general running- if you have full ignition cutout then regains power by itself while driving--thats the electrical prob--it did that earlier...then got worse...

if its gotten really worn it can do the symptoms descibed at start up

totaledTL

Low fuel pressure?

01tl4tl

how would that make it start then die? Im curious on your thinking here since we dont have normal filter to clog

My guess is electrical-switch or load/battery

Its almost winter,,time for a fresh round of customers needing battery replacements

modern batts...in tight hot engine compartments, surrounded by a plastic box with lid,,,,you are lucky to get 3-4 years out of them..
exception for the optima and other high end units,,
Im talking standard oe or above quality as found at dealer or parts store brands

When in doubt- get the electrical checked out!!! its free at most parts stores in America

01tl4tl

the TL requires a lot of juice from the battery just to get correct voltage to all the sensors, so you get good intel back to the ECU... which adjust fuel and timing by the second

crazy codes and warning lights can occur just from low battery power,
there are threads on azine from freaked out noobs with weak battery and ~car gone wild~

the battery runs the car,
the alternator quickly replaces the juice taken from the battery
voltage regulator keeps it all in spec limits to prevent overcharging battery

totaledTL

How would that permit it to start? Was merely a guess- if pressure is low (inadequate fuel to sustain the engine) but enough to start- residual pressure after pump activates- like I said, just a guess-

totaledTL

This I witnessed recently on another car- weak battery intermittently caused fuel cap light, brake light & 1 other one (I forget which one) to come on. Also the power windows would become inop. even w/ engine running-

blacka66

well the ignition switch has already been replaced threw the recall but my thing now is when i turn the car over it stays on with me keeping the key in the same place in the ignition so fuel & spark plug wise the car is good so far

blacka66

i replaced the battery and the alternator to

totaledTL

Replaced how long ago? Subsequent failures of replacmt. switches have been reported-

"stays on with me keeping the key in the same place"- If you hold the key still it will continue running? If so you've found it- the igntion switch and/or one of it's connections is intermittent. Reread post #3- 01tl nailed it-

01tl4tl

replaced already= means its going to be easier diy for you this time!!

blacka66

Aight iam going to try the switch and hope for the best

junteschan

Another suspect...Have you replaced the fuel injection main relay under the driver side dash. This costs about $50 -60 from the dealer and you can replace it yourself.

01tl4tl

j-- have you seen a lot of those fi relays fail??--

in general, its the ign switch on 99s , sometimes just the back,, sometimes entire assembly

Im still working off the OP statement:-it runs with a little gas--
if bad relay then no power from pump at all- wouldnt that be right?
Im not an electrical expert by any stretch,,basic follow and test with meter on that stuff!

I say electrical switch... and seafoam that thing to get the crud out of the injectors-
1 can in half tank will do it for you

blacka66

does have a link on how to switch the ignition with pictures

01tl4tl

main diy list
https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-tl-1999-2003-98/new-official-2nd-gen-tl-diy-thread-706083/

junteschan

[quote=01tl4tl;12402955]j-- have you seen a lot of those fi relays fail??--
++++++I used to own an 89LegendL. One electrical problem I had with it as it would not start after a regular trip; ...meaning starter cranks but engine would not run...but after 30 min engine starts .
My sons Integra gsr...engine just died and engine will not run but starter cranks....my wifes 2000TL idles very bad but runs better w a little more gas or on higher rpm...With all these symptoms I changed the FI Main relay ...problem solved. Also a friend of mine who works in an independent dealer confirmed that they get a lot
of these problems as this particular part easily fails.++++++

in general, its the ign switch on 99s , sometimes just the back,, sometimes entire assembly

Im still working off the OP statement:-it runs with a little gas--
if bad relay then no power from pump at all- wouldnt that be right?
+++++What I read online about this FI main relay failure
is a badly soldered wire problem inside the box.
2KTL OE Main relay I believe is a RZ-0158 number and I replaced it w a Mitsuba RZ-088.+++++

Im not an electrical expert by any stretch,,basic follow and test with meter on that stuff!
++++I have very limited know how on anything electrical
much less test w a meter...That I will just have to pick up from you or this forum++++

Thank again.

01tl4tl

good background on the relay prob
something to add to our diagnostics list!!

blacka66

YEESSS guess it was mah switch put part in and the car started up perfectly fine w/o no problems but now i got to get RF axle done smh but thanks guys for yall inputs and suggetions really helped me

01tl4tl

it was the ignition switch back part?
how much and where purchased?

dont fool around with bad axles!!-if its making noise it can depart the car while in motion- without much more warning...

new axles complete are under 100 at napa or oreillys (kragen)
dont buy rebuilts- get new only- from good parts store-
I dont care what they say about warranty on rebuilts--they end up using that~ more labor to do over again

harbourlady

i have the same car, a 99 tl, and am having a similiar issue -- the car will randomly stall, usually when i'm starting it up -- it will seem like its starting ok, then immediatly stall. its done this about 3 times now. usually if a wait a few minutes and then retry, it will start, although last time (about a week ago)i had to step on the gas to get it to stay started. it did stall once while it was running--the engine cut out, i pulled to the side of the road, turned it all the way off, and then restarted it with no problems. on top of that, about 3 weeks ago i was on a road trip, and smoke started coming out of the steering column -- just a little wisp, from the area that the wheel turns. i took it to the first mechanic i could find, who did a quick search and said it sounded like the ignition switch, and printed me out the recall info. i havn't had any issues with smoke since, but between that and the stalling, i'm a little worried. i called accura, who said that the switch had been replaced under the recall. i took it to a mechanic, told them what i knew, but they couldn't get the car to stall, so they said that there wasn't anything they could do. i'm not mechanically inclined, so heres what i would like to know -- are there any tests etc that can be performed to verifiy this is the issue -- anything i can tell my mechanic to ck or run to see if it is the ignition, or what else it may be?the last thing i need is this car to stall out on the highway -- i'm trying to solve the issue before it becomes a major problem. from everything i've read, i really feel like it probably jsut needs the ignition replaced again, but until i can prove it, the mechanic won't actually do it. i just got the car a few months ago (in june), so i know i'm a noob. thanks for your patience

01tl4tl

you can DIY the switch back--
acura only replaces it once under recall--with the same crap part!
so the next 3-4 times it fails its on you
see part stores for it,,you can buy the back/electrical part seperate from the front key part--and thats usually all it needs

that smoke is danger!! get this fixed now
go to a different shop and tell them what you want replaced-
or see the diy list for self-help
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=706083

totaledTL

Either find another shop or take it back & tell them YOU want it replaced, whether or not they can get it to stall.

01tl4tl

use another shop
If they printed out the recall notice and dont know the same part fails- they dont work on many acuras!!

while they want to only perform needed work----
if the customer wants a new camfibrillator installed --they get a new camfibrillator!
Hey! - now it runs right!!--who knew a girl had a clue about cars?!

harbourlady

ok, one other quick question as a follow up -- would you recommend ordering the part online, and if so, where can i get a decent price for quality product? if not, would you recommend napa, autozone or vip for the part? i'm thinking of taking the plunge and just trying the install myself, i've seen the threads on the diy page and think i can do it -- for those who have done this, whats the difficulty level? i've never worked on cars, but i have done some minor repairs on small electronics etc, and this seems more in that vein ...

01tl4tl

any of those parts store can help you
just tell them you need the `back/electrical part` that fails on acuras,,
might reach under the counter or have to go to a shelf--
meaning these fail a lot and they may stock one,,fits many hondas of many decades

if you can handle basic hand tools, are flexible enough to fit under the steering wheel and are willing,,, go for it!! give this a 1 or 2 of 5 on diffculty
If acura has replaced it once under recall (for 99s), its even easier,,someone has been there before!

01tl4tl

I go to the parts store and order.. so we can look at their picture of part in book and make sure we are talking about the same item

hopefully they have one you inspect,,yep same connector same wires etc...buy it

01tl4tl

wont hurt to call acura parts dept and ask for a price,,have some referance info or buy at dealer