I have a 99 TL at 190k has been running very very good since i've bought it at 180k. When i bought it i did the timing belt, water pump, tranny fluid change HONDA SYNTH WD1 or whatever its called. Just did an oil change yesterday as always w/ Mobil1 EP 5-30. So tonight comeing back from Walmart I jumped in and started it, stalled. Started again, stalled. Started again and gave it gas, evertime i put it to drive its stalled. I had to kind of rev it till it went to drive, then drove a short drive home. It was fine after. Don't know how it will be tomorrow, i will be going to my mechanic tomorrow. any suggestions? Thanks.

 

sounds like clogged egr port and passage system inside the intake manifold
99s only have 1 port and it clogs easily
the rest of us have 6 and have to do this cleaning every 75kmiles

procedure found in diy--remove intake manifold from engine, separate throttle body and service idle air control inside it
use 3 cans of carb cleaner and --no kidding - a wire coat hanger- to soften and poke the crud loose and out
must go thru the length of the manifold--not just thru a port opening
2 hours diy at a casual pace

shop should not charge more than 1.5 hours and may use a solvent tank of some type to speed the cleaning,, and a special tool that goes thru the passages and scrapes them clean

clogged egr will cause all sorts of starting and running problems

other things to know: 99s have a weak ignition switch back, the electrical part- it fries inside and car shuts off on turns,then comes back on!
easy diy

both those things were done under recall once, then on the owner after that

the atf is called DW-1
have you ckd the level per owner book method since serviced?
how are the spark plugs,,,new ngk iridium $8 each?

 

Hey OEM1, is your CEL on ?
With an engine running poorly with a low or erratic idle, there should be a code which could help with resolving your car's stalling problem. Normally, clogged EGR passageways will cause this. Sometimes a dirty fuel system, injectors or a faulty coil can cause poor runability. Check the plugs, air filter, vac and electrical connections. Make sure that the coolant level is up and that the charging system is ok under load.

 

good points 3.2

I failed to mention start the diagnosis with the electrical system testing at any parts store--free
weak battery will cause many problems,,and can damage the alternator by making it work harder than design limits,,low volts/amps wont run all the sensors properly,,false codes etc

OEM1--its ok to go 7500 miles between oil changes,,the mait req light is the oil change mileage reminder,,must be manually reset after each oil change, then just counts miles

ck PCV valve on rear valve cover..those clog up--ball inside must shake freely
under 10 bucks for new one

 

Ya thanks guys. No Check engine light is on at all! Car started fine this morning. I will get it looked at shortly. Thanks.

 

get to the parts store first- that free test of the entire electrical system will confirm or rule out several things

If you live anywhere but Ca. parts store can test for codes--also free--even if no cel --you never know!
can be as simple as a new ground cable