2003 Acura TL should I change brake disc
#1
Intermediate
Thread Starter
2003 Acura TL should I change brake disc
Hi everyone,
I got a 2003 Acura TL Type-S here.
Here is the picture of rear brake disc. I can not actually see how thick the brake pads are, so I think I should replace them.
From the pictures, feels like I need to replace the discs also since there are groove on both of them. Please help me check them and see if I need to replace them or just re-surface them? Thank you ahead.
My car
The right brake disc
The other side
I got a 2003 Acura TL Type-S here.
Here is the picture of rear brake disc. I can not actually see how thick the brake pads are, so I think I should replace them.
From the pictures, feels like I need to replace the discs also since there are groove on both of them. Please help me check them and see if I need to replace them or just re-surface them? Thank you ahead.
My car
The right brake disc
The other side
#2
Intermediate
Thread Starter
By the way, the front brake discs looks good. I will also upload pictures soon. My guess is that the car was park in snow winter for about 1 month. The corrosion causing this problems. Because I am not hearing any loud sound when I apply brake. Only some squeeze noise happens when I was parking. If the groove are caused by the brake pads that are out of life, there should be just on thread at where the metal piece attach the disc and I should hear very high pitch noise. Since there are multiple threads of groove and no significant noise, I will assume the reason is corrosion. Please let me know if there is any thing wrong with my theory.
#3
Safety Car
It looks to me that the brake pad is not coming in full contact with the rotor. The rotor itself does not look good at all also.
A few things: When changing brakes it is important to replace both sides (driver & passenger) and also to replace the rotor and the pad together.
Also, there are many brake kits out there from brakemotive for around 100 bucks (4 rotors and 4 pads) to brembos, pricey.
The car looks awesome BTW, the brakes in my opinion look like they are on their last legs.
A few things: When changing brakes it is important to replace both sides (driver & passenger) and also to replace the rotor and the pad together.
Also, there are many brake kits out there from brakemotive for around 100 bucks (4 rotors and 4 pads) to brembos, pricey.
The car looks awesome BTW, the brakes in my opinion look like they are on their last legs.
The following users liked this post:
blackhorse21 (04-26-2016)
#4
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Thank you~ I found a picture in my cell phone which was taken at January. Now it seems clear to me that the disc was already showed the sign of wear. I didn't recognize it and missed the opportunity to replace the pads. So now I have to replace all.
The disc at January ...
It looks to me that the brake pad is not coming in full contact with the rotor. The rotor itself does not look good at all also.
A few things: When changing brakes it is important to replace both sides (driver & passenger) and also to replace the rotor and the pad together.
Also, there are many brake kits out there from brakemotive for around 100 bucks (4 rotors and 4 pads) to brembos, pricey.
The car looks awesome BTW, the brakes in my opinion look like they are on their last legs.
A few things: When changing brakes it is important to replace both sides (driver & passenger) and also to replace the rotor and the pad together.
Also, there are many brake kits out there from brakemotive for around 100 bucks (4 rotors and 4 pads) to brembos, pricey.
The car looks awesome BTW, the brakes in my opinion look like they are on their last legs.
The disc at January ...
#5
Senior Moderator
Looks like the caliper sliding pins are frozen. At minimum you will have to disassemble and grease the slider pins, you may have to just buy a new caliper bracket and pins.
The following users liked this post:
blackhorse21 (04-26-2016)
#6
Intermediate
Thread Starter
I found the brakemotive set that include the calipers rotors and pads. Will you suggest to DIY the replacement? The labor fee is even higher than the stuff it self...
#7
Safety Car
If you never put in brakes before plan a Saturday to get it done.
Unscrew and leave open the master cylinder until you are complete. Also keep about a quart of dot 4 brake fluid on hand to bleed the system when you are done and to refill brake fluid in the master cylinder as you go. "Do not let the master cylinder go empty at any time"
You will need a couple of tools besides wrenches. a caliper compression tool and an 3/8 impact driver to remove the rotor screws. Rotor screws can be stubborn to remove.
When removing the caliper itself use a wire hanger to hang up the caliper so it doesn`t fall.
The new brakes kit should have new slides in their install those also as well as go to your local auto parts store and pick up a tube (not packets) of brake grease. Use the grease on the slides and on the back of the brake pads itself (so they don`t end squealing on you).
Once you do the first one the rest will be cake. Take your time.
Unscrew and leave open the master cylinder until you are complete. Also keep about a quart of dot 4 brake fluid on hand to bleed the system when you are done and to refill brake fluid in the master cylinder as you go. "Do not let the master cylinder go empty at any time"
You will need a couple of tools besides wrenches. a caliper compression tool and an 3/8 impact driver to remove the rotor screws. Rotor screws can be stubborn to remove.
When removing the caliper itself use a wire hanger to hang up the caliper so it doesn`t fall.
The new brakes kit should have new slides in their install those also as well as go to your local auto parts store and pick up a tube (not packets) of brake grease. Use the grease on the slides and on the back of the brake pads itself (so they don`t end squealing on you).
Once you do the first one the rest will be cake. Take your time.
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