2001 TL Heater Inop
#2
Senior Moderator
There is a small valve behind the motor by the firewall closer to the passenger side operated by a cable. Make sure that that is operating (moving)
Part #1
![](http://www.acuraautomotiveparts.org/acura/jsp/mws/catimgs/13s0k0_b1730.gif)
Also make sure the Mix motor is operating when changing temps modes as well
#6 in the diagram
![](http://www.acuraautomotiveparts.org/acura/jsp/mws/catimgs/13s0k0_b1720.gif)
#8 in the 2nd diag goes to #1 in the first. Thats what you need to make sure move freely on both ends and that both parts move
Part #1
![](http://www.acuraautomotiveparts.org/acura/jsp/mws/catimgs/13s0k0_b1730.gif)
Also make sure the Mix motor is operating when changing temps modes as well
#6 in the diagram
![](http://www.acuraautomotiveparts.org/acura/jsp/mws/catimgs/13s0k0_b1720.gif)
#8 in the 2nd diag goes to #1 in the first. Thats what you need to make sure move freely on both ends and that both parts move
#3
So if I move the temp control on the IP, this cable should move if its correctly connected and the mix motor is working correctly, yes? Does the motor move both the door and the cable then?
Also, does the valve you refer to in Diag #1 regulate the coolant flow thru the heater core? If so, could this valve be bad
Also, does the valve you refer to in Diag #1 regulate the coolant flow thru the heater core? If so, could this valve be bad
#4
Senior Moderator
yes. Make sure the mix motor is moving. Some have had issues with it not. It will also move the cable. Yes it does. Sometimes it sticks a little bit. Have some one operate the temp up and down and watch the parts i described to see if they move. They may just need a little WD40. If the mix valve doesnt operate it may need to be replaced
#5
I have the same problem with mine.
I pulled out the cable, and the heat works fine, but it wont switch back to cold. I'm thinking the other end of the cable is either broken or disconnected from what its supposed to be. I tried WD40, to no avail.
Im gonna go in again and check what the batman guy with a sombrero said: the mix motor.
I pulled out the cable, and the heat works fine, but it wont switch back to cold. I'm thinking the other end of the cable is either broken or disconnected from what its supposed to be. I tried WD40, to no avail.
Im gonna go in again and check what the batman guy with a sombrero said: the mix motor.
#6
Senior Moderator
^ It may be the water valve that doesnt want to move freely. Or the mix motor. Have some one play with the temps while you look at the motor to see if its moving.
#7
I have the same problem,and the motor(passenger side) doesn't pull the cable, and it's hard to move. I disconnected the cable from heater valve, tried to move the valve and the hot air didn't blow either
, but the pipe's are hot on both sides of valve, so i guess it means that hot air goes into the cabin, but where does it get lost??
another problem: Whenever it is AUTO turned on, AC doesn't stop working until 89. When i turn it to 90 it accordingly stops working.
1.Where is airmix motor located?? What are functions of it??
2. Where is mode motor located, and what does it do?
please help - getting cold![Smile](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Thanks
![Frown](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif)
another problem: Whenever it is AUTO turned on, AC doesn't stop working until 89. When i turn it to 90 it accordingly stops working.
1.Where is airmix motor located?? What are functions of it??
2. Where is mode motor located, and what does it do?
please help - getting cold
![Smile](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Thanks
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#8
Soundrecs said:
"and the motor(passenger side) doesn't pull the cable"
Where did you see the cable on the passenger side? was it inside the car underneat the glove compartment? I looked over there, and I saw a white piece of plastic with a piece of metal connected to it. It looked like it had something to do with the heat because it should (but doesnt) move.
Thanks
Ammar
"and the motor(passenger side) doesn't pull the cable"
Where did you see the cable on the passenger side? was it inside the car underneat the glove compartment? I looked over there, and I saw a white piece of plastic with a piece of metal connected to it. It looked like it had something to do with the heat because it should (but doesnt) move.
Thanks
Ammar
#9
Senior Moderator
Part #6 in the 2nd pic is the air mix motor. Part #5 is the mode control
tltoledo, Yes, its on the passenger side in the car under the passengers side dash (near the center tunnel if memory serves me correctly). You will have better viewing of it with the glove box assembly removed (but not necessary).
tltoledo, Yes, its on the passenger side in the car under the passengers side dash (near the center tunnel if memory serves me correctly). You will have better viewing of it with the glove box assembly removed (but not necessary).
#10
Thanks, I removed the motor and now I will have to buy a new one ... 90$, I tried move it manually and is started blowing(hot air)..
what about A/C? does it have to work like I described from 60 to 89 all the time??
what about A/C? does it have to work like I described from 60 to 89 all the time??
#11
Senior Moderator
Look here for the parts. They are always cheaper than the dealer.
http://www.acuraautomotiveparts.org/...catdisplay.jsp
If im reading your question right, On full auto/auto it wont. You have to take it off of full auto (by pressing the AC button to turn it off) for it not to run.
http://www.acuraautomotiveparts.org/...catdisplay.jsp
If im reading your question right, On full auto/auto it wont. You have to take it off of full auto (by pressing the AC button to turn it off) for it not to run.
#12
Originally Posted by fsttyms1
Part #6 in the 2nd pic is the air mix motor. Part #5 is the mode control
tltoledo, Yes, its on the passenger side in the car under the passengers side dash (near the center tunnel if memory serves me correctly). You will have better viewing of it with the glove box assembly removed (but not necessary).
tltoledo, Yes, its on the passenger side in the car under the passengers side dash (near the center tunnel if memory serves me correctly). You will have better viewing of it with the glove box assembly removed (but not necessary).
I have a 99 tl. Does that make a difference?
If not, wht do you think i need to replace? and where can it be found? Im getting confused.
#13
Senior Moderator
no difference. I think its either the mix motor or the water control valve. I posted pics and #s to look for above. Thats where i would start. Find out whats not working and use the link i posted just above yours to buy the correct part.
Originally Posted by fsttyms1
Part #6 in the 2nd pic is the air mix motor. Part #5 is the mode control
tltoledo, Yes, its on the passenger side in the car under the passengers side dash (near the center tunnel if memory serves me correctly). You will have better viewing of it with the glove box assembly removed (but not necessary).
tltoledo, Yes, its on the passenger side in the car under the passengers side dash (near the center tunnel if memory serves me correctly). You will have better viewing of it with the glove box assembly removed (but not necessary).
#14
Heater Water control valve
I am having the same problem. Valve seems to work. However when control turned to cold valve lever is parallel to hoses, and when turned to hot is perpendicular to hoses. This is backward from most fluid control valves. Is this just how this valve is made or could the controller be doing opposite of what it is supposed to be doing?
#15
Im now having this problem...heat wont switch over to the defrost section...only feet and dash blow hot air...and your pics fatty are no longer avail. :/ pulling dash off now to make sure i didnt unplug anything...then i will check behind pass. side dash... ugh
#16
ok just checked out everything under there...heat is switching from AC to heat properly...just having issues with it going onto the defrost section...very frustrating...
#19
Senior Moderator
#5 is the mode motor(ie floor, vent, defrost), 6 is the mix motor.
![](http://www.acuraautomotiveparts.org/acura/jsp/mws/catimgs/13s0k01_b1720.png)
#1 is the valve that allows hot coolant to come into the heater core
![](http://www.acuraautomotiveparts.org/acura/jsp/mws/catimgs/13s0k01_b1720.png)
#1 is the valve that allows hot coolant to come into the heater core
![](http://www.acuraautomotiveparts.org/acura/jsp/mws/catimgs/13s0k01_b1730.png)
Last edited by fsttyms1; 01-23-2014 at 01:40 PM.
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shamal (01-16-2015)
#20
Full heat or full cold...nothing in between
I replaced the heater control valve which didn't fix the issue. The air mix motor will move the cable in and out, but there is no inbetween. So its full heat or full cold. Any ideas as to what causes this, or what I can do or check?
#21
Check the blower motor's resistor pack which controls the motor's speed and determines the rate of airflow by the high-med-low setting being selected on the CC dash panel.
#22
I have the same problem, too:
- The heat did not kick in until the FULL HEAT setting (90 degree) and it’s like no heat if I turn down the temperature controller below 90.
- The heater control valve (#1) I replaced it last winter. It opens when the temperature passed 84 degree mark, but feel like no heat at all.
- How do I access to the blower motor's resistor pack? Is it related problem?
Do you think the A/C Heater climate temperature control unit not working properly? Thank you for the helps.
- The heat did not kick in until the FULL HEAT setting (90 degree) and it’s like no heat if I turn down the temperature controller below 90.
- The heater control valve (#1) I replaced it last winter. It opens when the temperature passed 84 degree mark, but feel like no heat at all.
- How do I access to the blower motor's resistor pack? Is it related problem?
Do you think the A/C Heater climate temperature control unit not working properly? Thank you for the helps.
#23
The blower motor's wiring harness and resistor pack are common issues.
Try doing a self diagnostic of the climate control. May help narrow down the problem.
Try doing a self diagnostic of the climate control. May help narrow down the problem.
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dan1995 (05-30-2014)
#24
I searched the community. I found a lot of people have the same problem. I had the heat problem last winter, I changed the heater valve as the community suggested, but it came back again recently.
I tried to run the self diagnostic of the climate control but came up nothing, no display at all. My car is 2001 TL. I ran both procedures:
- Turn key on, push "Auto" and then " Off " buttons, hold both down together…..
And:
- Turn ignition switch ON- Hold the OFF button and Press the "Recirculation" button 5 times within 10 seconds….
Silly me? Any suggestion....
I tried to run the self diagnostic of the climate control but came up nothing, no display at all. My car is 2001 TL. I ran both procedures:
- Turn key on, push "Auto" and then " Off " buttons, hold both down together…..
And:
- Turn ignition switch ON- Hold the OFF button and Press the "Recirculation" button 5 times within 10 seconds….
Silly me? Any suggestion....
#25
Moderator
^ The Self diagnosis is a little basic.. Most of the times it will find electric problems but not mechanical ones so if, For example: The A/C Air Mix control has a teeth broken but the motor still runs the Self-diagnosis will come up clean as there is no DTC for that scenario same for a failure in the compressor itself but not the clutch system.
Have you tried to check the AIR MIX Motor? that basically turns the Heater Valve so if its damaged even with a new valve it wont open it thus = No heat.
Have you tried to check the AIR MIX Motor? that basically turns the Heater Valve so if its damaged even with a new valve it wont open it thus = No heat.
#26
My heater is working but I have to crank temperature up to 90^. I changed the water valve last winter and it worked for a while.
I have question about Self-Diagnosis. My test did not show anything, none, zip, even "88"? Is something wrong with my self-test system? Please advice.
I have question about Self-Diagnosis. My test did not show anything, none, zip, even "88"? Is something wrong with my self-test system? Please advice.
#27
Climate Control self-diagnostic feature:
~ Turn key to on pos.2
~ Press "AUTO" and then "OFF", holding both buttons down together
~ A problem will be displayed as a code # in the "TEMP" digital indicator
~ If ok, no code.....only "88" on the display
~ To reset, simply turn key to off
~ If ya retrieve a code, post it here
~ Turn key to on pos.2
~ Press "AUTO" and then "OFF", holding both buttons down together
~ A problem will be displayed as a code # in the "TEMP" digital indicator
~ If ok, no code.....only "88" on the display
~ To reset, simply turn key to off
~ If ya retrieve a code, post it here
#28
Moderator
My heater is working but I have to crank temperature up to 90^. I changed the water valve last winter and it worked for a while.
I have question about Self-Diagnosis. My test did not show anything, none, zip, even "88"? Is something wrong with my self-test system? Please advice.
I have question about Self-Diagnosis. My test did not show anything, none, zip, even "88"? Is something wrong with my self-test system? Please advice.
If there is no DTC the screen will remain clean like if the A/C is off (Been there, done that).
It needs a Code to show you something.
Also if the AIR MIX motor is broken or malfunctioning it will make the Heat only works at 90! as the AIR MIX closes the Valve and Opens it to control Heat Temperature in Real Time is all thanks to that Motor. A/C Cold on the Other hand controls the temperature by Starting or Stopping the Compressor at given times so:
HOW AIR MIX MOTOR WORKS:
From Half Dial to Full Cold = Completely Open, Temperature is Electronically Controlled.
From Half Dial to Full Heat = Real Time Operation Closes/Open Heat Valve to Control the Amount of Heat.
Last edited by Skirmich; 05-31-2014 at 03:09 PM.
#29
^^^ Makes good logical sense !!!
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#31
Banned
when you guys check the heater valve my manually moving it ,make sure the center screw that holds the arm moves as well . if the screw does not move then the valve is the problem
#32
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He previously posted a relatively easy "DIY" fix for this.
#33
Many thanks toSkirmich’s DIY: A/C Air Mix Motor Repair. I just finished to inspected my Air Mix Motor. Here are what I found:
- The resistance (pin 4 and pin 5): 2.65k ohm (Spec: 2.1k to 3.9k ohm)
- The voltage (pin3 and pin 5):
Max Cool: 0.75 V (spec: about 1 V)
Max Hot: 2.97 V (spec: about 4 V)
What do you think about the measured value? Are they ok, within spec?
With the motor off the mount, the connector in and the engine running, I operated the A/C Heater Control from Cool (60) to Hot (90) incrementally 1 degree at the time. I found the motor’s Plastic Arm started moving incrementally from 81 to 90 degrees…. I thought the motor is good, it works the way it supposed to be (?)
Unplugged the connector and removed the Plastic Arm from the motor, I cracked open the motor case. I was very careful with the case tabs, but they’re pretty brittle (after 14 years in the car?), I broke couple of them. After I open the case, the motor’s wheels fell out all over…. Thanks to Skirmich’s photo, without it I could not know how to re-ensemble the wheels. My main motor wheel is Ok, no crack, but I “flip” it 180 degrees anyway (First I thought “Flip” means turn to the other side like flip a hamburger).
Reinstall the motor to the car was tough: the motor’s Plastic arm has to be in the track of two plastic moving level/arm in the car.
Run the engine, operated the control… the mix motor control the water valve properly with a/c and heat…..BUT:
I tried to take a drive test. After driving around about 10 min. I decided to turn the heat on at max 90 degree. I felt no “heat”, I mean 90 degree heat blowing out (?). I stopped the car, play with the temperature control and found that “the water valve only open at max 90 degree setting”. Strange!!!???
Any advice is appreciated.
- The resistance (pin 4 and pin 5): 2.65k ohm (Spec: 2.1k to 3.9k ohm)
- The voltage (pin3 and pin 5):
Max Cool: 0.75 V (spec: about 1 V)
Max Hot: 2.97 V (spec: about 4 V)
What do you think about the measured value? Are they ok, within spec?
With the motor off the mount, the connector in and the engine running, I operated the A/C Heater Control from Cool (60) to Hot (90) incrementally 1 degree at the time. I found the motor’s Plastic Arm started moving incrementally from 81 to 90 degrees…. I thought the motor is good, it works the way it supposed to be (?)
Unplugged the connector and removed the Plastic Arm from the motor, I cracked open the motor case. I was very careful with the case tabs, but they’re pretty brittle (after 14 years in the car?), I broke couple of them. After I open the case, the motor’s wheels fell out all over…. Thanks to Skirmich’s photo, without it I could not know how to re-ensemble the wheels. My main motor wheel is Ok, no crack, but I “flip” it 180 degrees anyway (First I thought “Flip” means turn to the other side like flip a hamburger).
Reinstall the motor to the car was tough: the motor’s Plastic arm has to be in the track of two plastic moving level/arm in the car.
Run the engine, operated the control… the mix motor control the water valve properly with a/c and heat…..BUT:
I tried to take a drive test. After driving around about 10 min. I decided to turn the heat on at max 90 degree. I felt no “heat”, I mean 90 degree heat blowing out (?). I stopped the car, play with the temperature control and found that “the water valve only open at max 90 degree setting”. Strange!!!???
Any advice is appreciated.
#34
If you have checked everything involved, try manually operating the heater valve by hand to see if it will give heat before the max 90 degree setting. Perhaps something else is malfunctioning. Could be a cable binding or a poor ground in the climate control unit ? IDK.
Your best bet is to download a copy of the Factory Service Manual to assist you in troubleshooting the system.
Your best bet is to download a copy of the Factory Service Manual to assist you in troubleshooting the system.
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dan1995 (06-03-2014)
#35
Yes, I tried manually operated the water valve but nothing changed. Do you know how to dload the Factory Service manual? please....
The Plastic Arm of the Mix Motor has 2 arms:
- The short arm is to operate the water valve via its cable.
- The longer arm is to operate a "latch" of the "chamber" in the firewall. I don't know what it is, but I guess it's the "mixer" chamber where the heat should go. If you know "how-to" and info about this, please advice.
Once I took the Mix Motorr out for testing, the I install it back, I have "ALL HEAT" even setting at lowest temp and A/C ON. Then I tried it again... "NO HEAT" at all, even at highest temp setting.
The Plastic Arm of the Mix Motor has 2 arms:
- The short arm is to operate the water valve via its cable.
- The longer arm is to operate a "latch" of the "chamber" in the firewall. I don't know what it is, but I guess it's the "mixer" chamber where the heat should go. If you know "how-to" and info about this, please advice.
Once I took the Mix Motorr out for testing, the I install it back, I have "ALL HEAT" even setting at lowest temp and A/C ON. Then I tried it again... "NO HEAT" at all, even at highest temp setting.
#36
Hey Dan1995, try this thread concerning downloading the 2G Factory Service Manual:
https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-tl-problems-fixes-117/2g-factory-tl-shop-repair-manual-852101/
https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-tl-problems-fixes-117/2g-factory-tl-shop-repair-manual-852101/
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dan1995 (06-03-2014)
#37
Please note that the Air Mix Motor function is Not only "open and close" the Water Valve, it "opens and closes" the "mixing chamber"(?) under the dashboard then the mixed air will blow out via the dashboard registers. It has 2 arms: one for Mix Motor, and one for mix air chamber.
My Mix Motor is ok but sometime no heat/or no AC.... I found out the arm for mix chamber was off track, so it can not "open and close" the latch anymore. My system is working pretty good now. Thank you.
My Mix Motor is ok but sometime no heat/or no AC.... I found out the arm for mix chamber was off track, so it can not "open and close" the latch anymore. My system is working pretty good now. Thank you.
#38
I have the same issue on my 1999 TL. Tested the air mix, it seems to open and close when the extremes are reached, so at 60 or 90 is when I see it move. Also, once at 60, it will blow cold even when I move to 90, but when I change FAN to max, it will eventually come around and blow hot. Same on the lower end. If blowing heat at 90, I go down all the way to 60, it will still be hot (and no a/c), but when I switch the blower to max, then the heat will give way to nice cool a/c. Any ideas. Thanks.
#39
run the ac/heat system diagnostics for code
ck mix motor as noted above, ck operating valve at firewall
motor speed- have you done the main power connector replacement, just under front of glovebox? installed new lead and connections?
resistor for blower often damaged when that connector fails and melts, shorts out etc
test fan motor with direct 12 volt power for full speed operation
ck mix motor as noted above, ck operating valve at firewall
motor speed- have you done the main power connector replacement, just under front of glovebox? installed new lead and connections?
resistor for blower often damaged when that connector fails and melts, shorts out etc
test fan motor with direct 12 volt power for full speed operation
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