Acuradriver216

Hello everyone, I have a problem with my 02 TL Type S.

Ok the car starts, just doesn't drive or accelerate. It kinda just bog's out. I "have" spark, fuel, the fuses all are good, the battery is good, everything is good. I parked it one night and the next morning this problem started, my mechanic is clueless also. "Please help thanks!!!"

MarcDavidoff

Dies it move at all? First thought would be clogged catalytic converter but don't think that would come on so suddenly

3.2TLc

Welcome Acuradriver216 !!!
So everything was operating normally until one morning after being parked overnight ?
Where do ya park the car.....any enemies ? Any recent work or issues ?

Is the CEL light on ? Does the car idle ok after start-up ?
Recheck the electrical and fuel stuff again, may be something overlooked ?

01tl4tl

when you say bogs down - do you mean its ok in Park or N idles fine
but when placed in D the rpms lower and car wont go forwards regardless of amount of throttle?
does it make any noises? do you feel it do the normal little engage into D within 2 seconds after selected?

Looked at atf level on dipstick yet? black color of fluid and smell like burnt toast?

looked under the car for broken axle- just got you there and fell off?

Give us a little more to go on please, miles on car?
thinking back, do you remember any vibrations or thunks in shifting? shudder between gears while shifting etc?

01tl4tl

also ck the PCV valve on rear valve cover, it clogs and does all kinds of weirdness

Acuradriver216

yeah it turns on rough, but wont move when put into drive

Acuradriver216

The car was running great, no shifting problems or anything. it just started doing this one morning. and no it idles rough in park, barely idles i what i should say, barely starts but starts. everything works just doesnt move loo. this is so messed idk what to do.

Acuradriver216

no lights are on, the car has 218k on it. it was driving like new before all this happened. Then poof stop working. and the only work i had done was stabilizer links and back rotors.

cominfromafar

If everything else on the vehicle is fine, and you replaced your rear rotors recently, i'm going to suggest checking your parking brake shoes (drum in hat design on our vehicles). I'm guessing they are making a lot of contact, even with the parking brake not depressed, which also indicates that they weren't properly adjusted at the time of rotor install. (You must take the time to adjust the parking brake whenever you replace the rear rotor and/or parking shoes.) If so, you need to read through pages 19-6 to 19-7 in the factory service manual available elsewhere here on the site (search).

To test this theory:
1) Park on level ground (this is very critical as you will not have the added safety of using the parking brake during this test).
2) Jack up both rear wheels off the ground.
3) Disengage the parking brake.
4) Spin each wheel by hand.
They must spin freely with no drag.

If you also changed your rear pads, see if they they're staying pressed against the rotors. If this is the problem, you will need to troubleshoot the pads, calipers, brake hoses, etc. Come back after you first do the parking brake test above before we go deeper.

cominfromafar

If everything else on the vehicle is fine, and you replaced your rear rotors recently, i'm going to suggest checking your parking brake shoes (drum in hat design on our vehicles). I'm guessing they are making a lot of contact, even with the parking brake not depressed, which also indicates that they weren't properly adjusted at the time of rotor install. (You must take the time to adjust the parking brake whenever you replace the rear rotor and/or parking shoes.) If so, you need to read through pages 19-6 to 19-7 in the factory service manual available elsewhere here on the site (search).


To test this theory:

1) Park on level ground. This is very critical as you will not have the added safety of using the parking brake during this test.

2) Jack up both rear wheels off the ground. The best rear jacking point for this is the rear tow hook under between the two mufflers. If you have them, place jack stands at the rear jack points (the flat tab slightly forward of the rear wheels under the rear doors), and lower the vehicle onto them, but the rear wheels must still be off the ground. (Familiarize yourself with page 1-14 of the factory service manual.)

3) Disengage the parking brake.

4) Spin each wheel by hand.

They must spin freely with no drag.



If you also changed your rear pads, see if they they're staying pressed against the rotors. If this is the problem, you will need to troubleshoot the pads, calipers, brake hoses, etc. Come back after you first do the parking brake test above before we go deeper though.

01tl4tl

new rear pads- ~~~~ there is a problem with many makers of the rear pads- using the wrong backing plate which causes only half of pad to contact the rotor!

the problem is a 3rd-middle, raised tab on inner side of rear pads- it hits caliper piston first and makes pad engage crooked
if there is a raised tab in the top middle = it must be ground off flush, or return and get right pads for the car
The easy visual ck is look at inner side of rotor- is it half rusty and half shiny?
guess what!!

note: that's not likely to have sudden no-go in the OPs car
Got to look at the axles, atf level and condition on dipstick and trans engagement

01tl4tl

you had someone do the work- good with acura or just some place or guy? who may not known about the rears and correct park brake adjustment?

fsttyms1

Great info for brakes, BUT none of this would cause his Hard starts and Rough idle.

fsttyms1

When you put it into drive and press the gas pedal, what exactly happens (other than it doesnt move) Do the RPMs go up? How high do they go up?

3.2TLc

Perhaps your car has bad gas and is constipated.

Acuradriver216

the rpm dont move, it runs very rough and wont move.. the brakes have nothing to do with the car not running lol...

01tl4tl

bad idle and roughness can be failed coil(s), ck each power lead to coil is secure

clogged PCV does surprising things so definitely pop that thing off and clean it so ball inside rolls freely

how old are the spark plugs? pulled one to inspect? top of center probe is flat? or thin and wedge shaped? (worn out)
correct ngk plugs are in it? not some 2 buck chucks you installed 4 months ago and now died?

no rpm change with applying throttle when in D? it doesn't try to rev up at all?
how about in N?
in D it never feels like full engagement??- you know the 2nd slight thunk at 2 seconds after shifting into D, then trans is ready to go forward?

01tl4tl

when you say battery is good- how was that tested?? at parts store for voltage and ability to recover from load test?

or it measured what volts, sitting in the car with your multimeter?
cranking voltage?

3.2TLc

Yeah, just try a known good fully charged battery or have it jumped and leave cables on donor.

On a side note, was the car driven regularly prior to this occurrence ? Can you recall any abnormalities the last time that ya drove the car in the previous couple days before the car's morning after sickness ?

01tl4tl

anyone really really realllllllly upset with you???

Have you done any visual under the car? axles do break

3.2TLc

If the car was indeed running great before sitting overnight,
apparently something must have been on the edge or disturbed.

01tl4tl

much like another thread where an oil change led to oil pump failure!

fsttyms1

so if you put your foot to the floor, the RPMs wont change at all? Not even in the slightest?

Gabru678

iTrader: (1)

Italian tune up required?
IACV? or even the EGR port?

Acuradriver216

The has very little to no spark. The crank sharft sensor has been replaced and spark plugs. my mechanic still cant figure out whats wrong with it. I have not a car now so im really stressing about this. Someone has to know whats wrong with this car. please help

Acuradriver216

The car bogs out kinda when you push the gas. doesnt move still and has a hard time idling. My mechanic said it has very little spark whatever that means.

MarcDavidoff

Have the coil packs been checked?. One at at time should be unplugged and see if the idle gets worse. If you unplug one and ot remains idling rough in the same fashion, then that coil is likely bad

musiclevelz5

Have your mechanic check the timing marks in the two holes at each camshaft. Its possible the T belt is off one tooth causing the issue. Let us know what he found.

Acuradriver216

The coils are good, i brought it to a new mechanic and we will see what he comes up with. He said timing and maybe bad gas. But yeah still dont know what is wrong. Its turns on, but wont move or really rev up. Just kind putts, i wish someone had the same car and had the same thing happen this would be so much easier.

01tl4tl

are the CORRECT NGK spark plugs installed? the 8 dollar each ones?
Has tech removed a few and watched spark ignite outside of engine?
Battery is fully charged?
new tech should ck for any hidden codes in ecu

we do all have the same car as you! and have had some problem similar,, but working thru your description and test done so far to get you an answer

Acuradriver216

yes all that is good.

ErickUa5

1 dead coil will make these cars bog and loose power, If the coils are indeed good then the timing belt may have jumped a few teeth. Your mechanic should be able to see if thats the issue without taking much apart.

Does this happen when the engine is cold ?
Even with the CEL off theres some useful information a scanner with live data can give to help figure out the problem.

Acuradriver216

Yes you're right the timing did skip and yes it was cold when this problem started. First cold day in Cleveland. But ok the question now is now, does he have to replace all of the timing and water pump and all that or can you just reset the belt. pretty much 2934 to reset the belt and find the problem and 800 more to do the whole thing. what shoild i have done?

Acuradriver216

$293* and $1100 for whole thing.

Acuradriver216

Also said it all looks replaced before.

01tl4tl

the last time tbelt was replaced they may not have done the tensioner- which has now failed and caused total engine destruction!!!!!!!!!!

If its been cranked over with a broken belt- forget about it!
bent exhaust valves are your situation, and for the cost its better to grab a used motor from the junkyard and drop it in

01tl4tl

any tech who wants to proceed on our engine when a tbelt has failed- either has no knowledge of the clearance issue of rising piston to stuck open exhaust valves,
or is a total thief

We have many stories on here of shops doing just that
replace the tbelt etc THEN suddenly discover - oh sorry- its got a bent valve(s), now we need to pull the heads and replace more parts for another 1500$

Acuradriver216

the belt is not broken, it slipped 3 points and the put it back and it runs fine. the question is should i replace the other stuff for another 800 dollars? its 293 right now.

Acuradriver216

its my dads mechanic and he has known him for 20 years. and he has been in biz for 40. so i don't think hes messing with me.

TLer trash

Something made it jump 3 teeth. You're REALLY lucky. Any more, and you'd be looking for a replacement engine. Definitely replace anything that wasn't done with the belt. Actually, I'd replace the belt again considering that it jumped. Do it all: water pump, pulleys, idlers, tensioners, hydraulic tensioner, anything that touches the timing belt, or affects it's operation.