kevykev1969

2000 TL 3.2 engine has loss of power, idle speed is only 400 rpm and will not increase as throttle is opened,with throttle closed engine load is 83-90%, TPS is 9.4%, fuel pressure is 50 psi with pressure regulator disconnected, ignition timing is minus -10 Degrees, O2 sensor is .975 Volts, Map sensor shows 29 inches, but a vacuum gauge shows only 5 inches of vacuum.
I checked the catalyst by disconnecting it temporary it is not the problem, I also checked the EGR to see if was stuck open and it was not. any suggestions or thoughts are appreciated very much. Could it be the Vtec valve or the PCM?:confused

01tl4tl

what happened BEFORE all this? coolant leak and overheated into red zone? more than once? rad is full and burped per owner book? heater was on full hot and cabin fan on during burping (if done) res bottle- cap has a hose attached inside that likes to come off, is that secure?

low on oil for some reason?

Time for a compression test of each cylinder, bad looking plugs are clues along the way

That's where I would start= compression. When you used your real vac gauge, was it at the master vac port on top of TB? the one with squeeze type hose clamp- need pliers to open it!
Should read over 25 inches vac at idle there

01tl4tl

have you cleaned the Intake Manifolds internal EGR passage and port system?
that clogs up bad and will mess with running
Have to pull intake off the engine, set on workbench and using a straightened wire coat hanger to reach thru the length of egr passage, and 3 cans carb cleaner to soften and rinse carbon buildup out
Service/clean the IACV IDLE AIR CONTROL VALVE inside bottom of Throttle Body while in there, COMMON PROBLEM with it clogging and wont rotate to adjust incoming air = idle control
Some have found the electrical part of IACV has failed, in addition to being dirty- the cars are getting on in their years~

01tl4tl

No CEL on dash and no codes, guessing you have a good scanner

01tl4tl

seafoam thru manifold vac or TB throat is good for instant results- when done correctly and special `after-drive` to blow out the loosened crud is performed
BUT
that method misses the fuel delivery system
Add 1 can to just under half of tank of gas and drive how you want.
Since you did vac method- only 1 time thru gas tank is needed to complete the cleaning

Others -noobs- Just do the gas tank method 2 times for max cleaning, then once a year a can in just under a full tank is maintenance dosage

kevykev1969

I checked the engine vacuum at the fuel pressure regulator port, the oil looks clean and is full, the engine has not overheated. I'll check the compression next and if it's ok I think I'll pull the intake and check to see if it's clogged up. thank you

kevykev1969

I'm going to do a compression test next and then I'll pull the intake and check for clogged EGR ports. Thank you

kevykev1969

No cel, the car sat for 3 months and the battery was dead if there were any codes they probably got erased. I have a decent scanner it's a Launch CRP123 I bought it from Matco. Thank you

01tl4tl

ck vacuum at master vac port- on top of TB- has the only `finger sized` hose near there with a clamp you squeeze the tabs together with pliers to open it!
There is a metal nipple coming off TB for that hose = master vac 25 inches+ there

Battery is fully charged, not just New off the shelf or battery tender on old one? Really full = by using in another car for 45 minute cruise?

kevykev1969

Ok I'll check the vacuum at that port, the battery is fully charged now. It'sounds my friends sons car, he said it started missing and losing power three months ago and I gothink so bad the car became undrivable, that's why the battery was dead because it sat for 3 months.

01tl4tl

probably needs a coil!!! and I have heard of totally clogged egr passage causing problems

reminder: Ck PCV on top of rear valve cover- that likes to get stuck closed - especially when the car sits for months = major problems when internal engine pressure needs to escape
20 bucks for new PCV at acura , try some carb cleaner or deep creep (seafoam aerosol) to free it up inside- should shake like a spray paint can

kevykev1969

Ok, thanks for the info, will do.

kevykev1969

I pulled the plugs and ran a compression test the front bank cylinders 4-5-6 the plugs were black fuel fouled, the compression is 180-185. The rear bank cylinders 1-2-3 the plugs didn't look to bad a little brown, the compression is 220-225 on this bank.
I think the next move is to pull the timing cover and check the timing. What do you think?

kevykev1969

Pulled the timing cover on front bank, set #1 on TDC, the timing belt is deteriorated, and the cam is about 20 degrees off its mark.

01tl4tl

ummm, can you handle bad news,,are you sitting down?
If the timing has come off, jumped a few teeth- the resultant contact between stuck-open exhaust valves and rising piston tops creates massive internal damage

One bank of the engine with lower compression and ugly spark plugs points to blown head gasket and/or damage from timing jump
400 rpm and no power would support those theories

You can get rebuilt heads but damage to piston rods and bearings is a deal killer
A junkyard engine with a new water pump and timing belt kit installed= is cheaper to do!

01tl4tl

Is this car new to you? how many total miles on it? sounds like the 105 service was never done,,,
how many miles did it go before this belt related problem started??
Others need warning!

re: overheating, anything more than its usual 1 or 2 lines below half- and dead steady regardless of traffic, or outside temp, or mountains with ac blasting, temp should never waver = or there is a problem!

kevykev1969

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kevykev1969

I can pull the valve cover and check the clearance on the valve lash to see if the valves are bent can't I?

TLer trash

^^You'd think it would work, but I've run into bent valves that didn't give any indication clearance wise. I'd put a belt on it, and try it.

01tl4tl

the valve might be bent on its sealing edge, or the rod part of it will get bent
Not sure if adjusting will work to determine if bad
Using a new belt and turning the engine with the crank bolt- by hand- might not cause worse damage, but I make no promises!!
When you see 20 degrees off the cam timing mark- I think contact within an interference engine is all but assured
With the symptoms presented = its not looking good

kevykev1969

I replaced the timing belt and got it running good again, except at times it looses power and then will suddenly accelerate. I sure this problem is not related to the timing. I just want to thank you guys for your advise.

01tl4tl

did you adjust the valves and clean the egr passage in the intake manifold?
then ck compression again- after valve adjustment
You installed new NGK $8 each spark plugs?
Watch the coolant and oil levels for transfer

Im happy to be wrong when the problem is less than the scenario I presented

kevykev1969

I did check the compression ratio it is good 125 psi all cylinders, I cleaned the EGR passages, it has NGK plugs about 6 month's ago, I media blasted them clean with glass beads. How do you check for oil tansfer?

01acls

Sorry but thats below minimum specifications. Minimum is 135 psi. Did you check it with WOT as noted below?

kevykev1969

Yes I tested with the throttle wide open, it is a low figure, unless my gage is off, I'll borrow a buddy's and recheck it.
The car runs good though, it just hits a dead spot and doesn't have power then it all of the sudden takes off as if it it has a dead spot on the tps.
It seems to me if it is a compression issue it would run bad or have reduced power all the time.

01acls

^ no I don't think so. Bc you have low compression there's low power at low rpm. The lag is present untill the motor winds up to produce enough power to propel the car.

Ever heard of turbo lag? Well you have engine lag.

kevykev1969

It doesn't do it all the time, but it is frequent.

01tl4tl

cross cking = if there is a head gasket problem you will get transfer from one fluid to the other, oil level will rise above full -- or coolant will get brown and foamy

01tl4tl

do your next compression test dry and wet- that's take a reading then squirt a little bit of engine oil in the spark plug hole- crank engine thru 2-3 revolutions to spread oil
Retest compression
If better, there is a ring problem - possibly from the overheating
If no change- the leakage is past the valves

kevykev1969

Ok thanks for the info, the car didn't overheat though.

01tl4tl

you have owned it long enough to know that for sure- over 2 years?
Not many primary things will cause the end results you have!

01acls

Does not matter what happened in the past. What matters is what we know now. He has low compression. I would not spend amymore time or money on this engine unless you're going to find out if it's the heads or rings.

Right now you can keep driving it like that or swap it out with a used motor. The used motor will be the cheapest and best way to go.