i just installed my rotora slotted rotors....i wuz wondering if there is any guide lines i should follow or precautions that i should take so that they dont warp like the stock pieces of crap ?
thankz all....

 

Just take it easy on them for 300-500 miles try to avoid hard braking if possible.

 

Make sure you torqued the lug nuts to 80 ft/lbs of tq like Acura recommends and torque them in a star pattern. Also bed the pads in properly. You can do this by accelerating to 60 mph and slowly applying the brake until reaching 10mph but not coming to a complete stop if possible. Do this about 6-8 times and you should be good.

 

This is Exactly what isnt recomended on new rotors. It will warp them easier. Need to take it easy for the first few hundred THEN if you feel your brakes could be doing a better job, then bed them in. This procedure is just for mating the pad surface to the rotor better. you dont want to do this on Virgin rotors

 

I've seen you post this before but many of the rotors I've sold have said this in the instructions. I have to try and find the sheet to show you. Also, I'm not talking about doing 60-10mph in 2 seconds. I said to slowly apply the brake so the pad surface does seat better with the rotor so that there is not uneven wear.

 

Some may say to do (i havent had a set yet) it but i still wouldnt. Ive seen many Rotorsa warp doing that. My Brembo BBK that i had i had the rotors warped in under 12k miles doing that. The next set of rotors i broke them in with easy driving for 500 miles and they never warped.My stock rotors made it to almost 70 k and my last set of rotors made it to 70k and my irotors still running at 70k none ever warped

 

I suspect that my front Rotora slotted rotors are warped. It has the usual telltale sign of steering wheel shakes when braking. These rotors have seen around 48K Km of driving. It is on the second set of pads - EBC green. The first set was the dusty Axxis Ultimate. I have done everything according to the books : initial bedding, easy for 1st few hundred kms, torqued nuts evenly, etc., etc. So I think if they are gonna warp, they will no matter what you do.

I'll check around to see if they can be machined. If not, I'll have to buy another set of rotors and new pads.

 

I will check my install directions when I get home.....

 

Torquing the lug nuts is also Very Very important

 

I think I will follow the 'easy for the first 500 miles' routine. I did that with my car when I first bought it ... I am at 110 000km (69 000 miles) on OEM pads + rotors this weekend. The fronts will be changed with RacingBrake rotors + Hawk HPS pads. I've heard very good things about the Hawk pads (after they've been warmed up but that doesn't take long ... 5 seconds or so I am told). Still up in the air with the rears ... maybe stick with OEM rotors + Hawk pads (if they are good) or OEM pads (since they lasted so long).

 

I called ROTORA and they verified what I had recommended. This is what they recommend (similar to what Stoptech recommends too):

After completing installation, make a series of 10 stops from 60 to 5-10 MPH. At the end of each stop, immediately accelerate to 60 again for the next stop. Run all stops in one cycle. During the 60 to 5-10 MPH series of stops, the exact speed is not critical. Accelerate to approximately 60 and begin the braking cycle. As you approach 5-10 MPH, it is not necessary to watch the speedometer, keep your eyes on the road and approximate your speed at the end of each cycle.

DO NOT COME TO A COMPLETE STOP, AS YOU WILL IMPRINT PAD MATERIAL ONTO THE ROTOR, CAUSING A VIBRATION.

There are several indicators to look for while breaking in the system: On the 8th or 9th stop, there should be a distinct smell from the brakes. Smoke may be evident after several stops as well.

Also on the 8th or 9th stop, some friction materials will experience “green fade”. This is a slight fading of the brakes. The fade will stabilize, but not completely go away until the brakes have cooled.

After the break-in cycle is finished, there will be a blue tint color on the rotor with a light gray film on the rotor face. The blue tint indicates the rotor has reached the proper break-in temperature and the gray film is pad material starting to transfer onto the rotor face. This is normal and good! If f racing or higher per performance pads are being used, add four stops from 80 to 5-10mph and if a full race pad, four stops from 100 to 5-10 mph. After the first break in cycle shown above, the brakes will still not be operating at their best capacity. A second or third d bed-in cycle is typically necessary before the brakes really start to “ come in”. A cycle is a series of stops with a cool down in between each cycle.

After the final stop of each cycle, drive as much as possible without using the brakes to cool off the system. Ideally, the brakes should be allowed to cool to ambient temperature before using again.