Supermanrox305

Keeping the same block J32 whats the most n/a hp that could come out of this? Lets say also its a TL-S

Supermanrox305

32 views and no can answer this

Rockstar21

iTrader: (1)

not many people have fully built j32's... especially in the TL. people arent intentionally ignoring you.

its just fairly uncharted territory.

yes, alot of people here have bolt ons and even a few TC and SC's.. but your guess would almost be as good as most here.

my guess is people with j32 swaps in civics and such have more experience in making a fully built N/A.

there's too many ways to build a motor to put a specific number on it.

maybe explain a little more of what your trying to achieve and what your budget is.

fsttyms1

The accord guys and CL guys are pushing 300whp NA

RUF87

The service director at DMD Acura claims this engine is capable of 400hp at the crank . . . if I keep mine that long . . and have the money when it's time to rebuild . . . we'll see. We'll that's assuming I can solve the traction problems at @320+hp.

Ruf

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

on race gas proably though, but for a streetable, pump gas motor, i proably would say 300-325 is about the max that it could make NA

Supermanrox305

okay well in mods i would like Full Headers, Test Pipe, Full Exhaust, bolt on P2r Intake Manifold with the bigger P2r Power Plenum, P2R Throttle Body Spacer, P2R Thermal Intake Gasket, Intake,Pulleys and tuning it as best as i can.

Pretty much i would like all bolt on .

Supermanrox305

Are those auto or 6spd?

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

proably 275 max, without actually going inside the motor itself

does not matter cause that power is at the crank, and not at the wheels
but a 6 speed is more efficient at getting the power to the wheels, so it should be faster with a good driver, if all else is equal

Supermanrox305

Damn! I would like to make somewhere close to 290 to the wheels without going on boost or a s/c setup

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

to that power level at the wheels


also a S/C is boost ,

and if you really want too, you can always (aka:spray)
or do a stroker motor, but then you are talking about going inside of the engine then (still techically a bolt-on, but not really though)

phee

iTrader: (5)

290 is achieveable. get some custom cams and an FIC

Rajca

iTrader: (8)

the 3rd gen tl guys are getting just over 300whp NA. p2r doesnt have an intake manifold. u either get the plenums or the 06tl shawd manifold. and pnp, not home pnp bench tested pnp is where the power is. along with all the bolt ones. and one good ass tune

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

still not 290 to the wheels, but at crank achievable but not easy

Supermanrox305

Whats an FIC

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

i think he means the AEM fuel and ignition controller

Supermanrox305

Whats pnp? Which would be better swapping out the manifold for the 06 one? or getting the plenums? Also P2R making a lower manifold for the tl would that help out also?

I wouldn't go on boost thing is i don't want to blow the tranny. I want to say auto also but don't really want to go threw the headaches of swapping out tranny's with the 3gen tl tranny. Any suggests on what i can do to not cause this if i go on boost?

Supermanrox305

So its the same thing as a E-manage Ultimate?

Rajca

iTrader: (8)

port n polish. have it professionally done for maximum gains.
dont use the 3rd gen tl intake manifold. 4th gen tl sh awd manifold and the bored throttle body along with thremo gaskets. p2r has ported and polished runners.

Rajca

iTrader: (8)

no. google the differences between the two. emag will work but fic gives more tuneability(sp?)

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

f***ing UPS, where the f*** is mine

fsttyms1

And you think staying NA will make the trans last longer?? Its not going to happen.

fsttyms1

In order to get the most you will have to do a 3.5 conversion. Use the search button for more info.

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

or 3.6
or 3.7 if never going FI


but yes internal engine would definetly be needed, even if it was just to raise the compression some on the current motor

Rajca

iTrader: (8)

3.9 end of story. but no FI for u

Supermanrox305

So i pretty much have no other choose but to swap out the trannys even if im gonna be all out n/a, wow this sucks

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

yeah our trannies suck big time

Rajca

iTrader: (8)

shit, stock the trans still blows. get the 3rd gen tl or odyssey trans, those are built better and will last longer.

or just go 6spd

Supermanrox305

this makes me want to get my altima ser even more

Rajca

iTrader: (8)

^id deff get that over the tl

Supermanrox305

money was tight and at the time the SER was a bit pricey

fsttyms1

3.9 now huh? whos done that?

Rajca

iTrader: (8)

Noone has done it, its been talked about on the 3rd gen side and paul has said that its possible ( or that's what I remember reading

jjashaa

iTrader: (23)

3.9 in a 2G?!.. ohh ho ho ho... beastly..

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

you could though, but it proably be really overboring the cylinders (unless of course you want to pay for a custom crank then), so sleeving proably be mandetory, and even then good luck with trying to run any sort of FI, or
also one little detonation would proably crack the sleeve right away anyways

fsttyms1

Im still trying to figure out the piston side of my build. I might have to check into it....

Rejckt

iTrader: (2)

fsttyms1 is right...

Your logic doesnt make much sense. You are trying to get the most HP out of NA where as s/c alone can get you the power of all the bolt-ons itself. You'd be at the same HP level with the same problem. Boost doesn't break trannys, I believe torque/hp does.

I'd have to say along with everyone else, 6spd is the way to go. Go pm rv6 and get in line for a module. Best money you'll ever spend.

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

talking about power....

only bolt ons on a 3G TL(S) NA: ~280 whp (plus minus 10whp)
PnP NA no NOS: ~360 whp (i think a member gerzand is running it)
PnP NA with NOS: I have no idea !!!

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

only issue i would say is that the sleeves be extremely thin like only a 1mm or 2mm thick, where for some reason the factory thickness that pops into my head is 4mm thick

and as you know with the hybrid 3.6 builds, you just don't bore out the cylinders, then if you want a 3.7 you go 1mm overbore, so the logic would be 2mm overbore would be 3.8, 3mm overbore would be 3.9, then a 4mm overbore without any type of cylinder left would be a 4.0 (actually maybe a little bigger cause things do not size up proportionally, but i was going for something easy to figure out)
it is the torque, cause horsepower is just a function of the available torgue at a given RPM (aka- a calculated value off of torque)

adding weight to a car can also break the tranny easier too, cause the tranny has to work harder lugging all that extra shit around too, so a lighter car=a longer lasting tranny



and yeah there are much easier ways to get that kind of power and beyond that, by not staying NA

JCharged

iTrader: (5)

All this power talk and building.... reminds me to get back to work.

If you want numbers look for L'S TLS dyno. He had almost every bolt-on. J32A2 AUTO.

Get all bolt-ons, get a transmission Cooler and Tune with AEM FIC if you do not want to play with internals and such.

IMO, numbers don't prove what a car can do. If you can get traction and put that power to the ground, it is key. After all bolt-ons, I would personally polyfill the mounts, get a engine torque dampener, better tires, stiffer suspension. Make that power useful.

Oh, and ease off the gas and let the auto transmission do it's job by shifting gears. It should "band-aid" it for now until it actually slips.