ksu90

Hello Acura Zine

I am looking to do a J35A3 Swap with 2G TLS Cams but while researching many articles people have done in the past, there seem to be some conflicting information.

One Guy Says
1. Get J35A3 engine and swap in ONLY J32A2 cams and your set. Everything else should bolt on fine. Remove 1” MDX Spacer (Is it that simple for swap?)

Another Guy Says
2. Get J35A3 engine and swap in, J32A2 Parts: [cams, valve springs, runners, 270cc injectors, intake manifold, oil pressure spring & valve] (Basically entire top of a J32A2!)

And Another Guy Says
3. Get J35A3 engine block & use existing J32A2 entire top end, also Mill Heads .02” and port and polish cylinder heads, runners, and intake manifold.
(Might as well take entire top end of current J32A2 to machine shop to get rebuild for reliability, milling .02” or .03”, and port and polish)

And Then Another Guy Says
4. Get JDM J35A3 engine block because of lower miles and rest is same as option 3.

Question:
*So which option is best? How much would it cost? (Maybe option 1 is cheapest) Which one would be most reliable and powerful?
*When people say gasket match, what do they mean? Get all original stock gaskets?
*Also, does anyone know anyone in the Seattle area that might be able to do this job?

I purchased another 2G TLS for project car that will be for weekend/summer time driving. It has 244k miles and previous owner kept in in reasonable shape. My budget is about 2k for the engine swap. (Cost of engine, labor, parts, timing belt, water pump, coolant, seals, etc.) Which one would be most ideal? My goals are 300wHP and reliability. I have help a friend do an engine swap before, and have light to medium knowledge of car mechanical parts. (Can do engine oil. trans fluid, power steering, brake changes)

I plan to have all bolt on's (Pulley, CAI, Comptech Headers & Mufflers Exhaust) installed. J35A3 manifold spacer will be removed.
After Engine Swap will be:
Paint Job W/ OEM body kits
Koni yellow + HnR Springs
Wheels and Tires (Have not decided) - Which size wheels and tire will give good grip for 300Whp?

Thanks!

Karanx7

iTrader: (2)

You must be a young guy. You've got a lot planned, and nothing done.

Option 1 is your only option. The rest aren't necessary or even useful. Do your bolt-ons first before bothering to swap engines.

Skirmich

Option 1 is the easiest and most reasonable to accomplish.

ksu90

Thats not very nice. Its always better to plan ahead than be stuck somewhere you dont know with wrong or incorrect parts. My TLS daily already has full bolt ons and runs great.

I agree that its the most simple and economical, but does the extra $ spent for mill heads .03" and port plus polish worth the performance gain? How much performance gain should be expected to raise comp ratio and increase airflow?

Skirmich

If you were to go the extra mile to raise the compression I get you will get another 15HP? Perhaps? I am guessing here since nobody has done a proper Dyno pull to test this out..
Power should be plenty enough by doing the Type S 3.5L build I reckon you will need bigger tires just to put that power to the ground.

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

if you raise CR its like a 3% gain. So 6-7hp, not really worth the work. If you can get camshaft spacer made you can run 08 RL camshaft. Someone gained 13whp over the stock camshaft on the facebook j-series nation group using a MDX motor in a civic. But option 1 would best the easiest drag and drop option for sure and throw in some headers. That should put you under the 2k range if you do all the work yourself. If you have extra cash get bisi staged camshaft, but then you would need upgrade valvetrain and a tuning solution. So that alone would break your budget

Karanx7

iTrader: (2)

Being called young isn't nice? To each his own.

You should avoid splitting the heads from the block. If you want to stay under 2k, then just swap the cams. Milling the heads requires a lot of labor that will net you almost nothing for the money. If you're interested in any real performance, you should go 6 speed.

JwapDreams

Are you suggesting that the bismoto camshaft are worth the money? So many conflicting arguments about this topic.

Also, people keep on referring to this spacer. What does this spacer even look like and who sells it? Does it have to be custom made or what?

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

I am working with a company right now to get the spacer made so that first generation J motor can use TL-s and RL camshaft. Going to be a month or 2 and you can probably see vendors starting to stock them since the company also makes other J series stuff. So don't waste your time with the j32a2 camshaft. Even the 04 TL base has more aggressive intake profile than the cl-s http://www.v6performance.net/forums/...-bisimoto.html

As for bisi camshaft the are worth it since the last dyno I saw on a newer accord put it 30whp over stock however you must tune it and get valve train. Valve train and the camshaft will set you back 1500 bucks. If you want billet camshaft webcamshaft will make you a set of billets for 1400 bucks any profile you want.

JwapDreams

I'm fine waiting for the spacers lol. It'll fit right into my timeline. Do you mind letting me know what company that is that you're working on the spacers or is that confidential?

And do you know where I can buy this KMS valve/valve train from? They say it's supertech rebadged?

Also, how's the streetability of the bisi cams?

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

I sent you a PM

Here are some valve springs from p2r

P2R J series Level 1 Valve Springs

As far as bis-camshaft you might want to ask andy aka genzard.

Kris9884

Seems like a lot of effort for like what, 5-10hp? You'll notice more from taking out the rear seat and spare tire..

JwapDreams

If this reply was to me, the car I'm putting this into is a civic so it's already pretty light, 2400lbs, and I'd like to keep the seats because it's a daily. Front seats will be swapped out for racing seats reducing said weight.

Does anyone know what size injectors support what whp? I haven't found any definitive answers other than stock injectors mac out at like 300whp or less. What are the 410 rdx injectors good up to? I'm not planning on running a super high duty cycle because I like "reliability " however much that will be.

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

rdx inejectors are 410cc @38 psi, on my accord I have them around 500-510cc @58 psi. Car made 393 on 87% duty cycle. Currently my car is around 410whp and around 91%

JwapDreams

You know my goal. You think these are big enough? About to buy a set of injectors but want to make sure. I think a while ago someone mentioned that they wouldn't be big enough. But I'd like to double check.

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

are you going to run e85? Price on the RDX injectors have went up so maybe getting even larger injectors aftermarket injector would be better in your case. for 300 whp it should be enough with about 20% or more overhead. Even the j37a1 MDX only use 310cc and they make 300 crank. So 300whp I am going to say maybe 350crank hp. RDX injectors should be enough if you want to stay N/A

JwapDreams

Nope, gonna run 91 most likely. Maybe I'll get brave because we do have 93 where I'm at. But definitely not e85. I'm probably looking for something to support 350whp. I probably won't get that number but a little bigger is definitely safer/better than being too small.

Kris9884

Nice, that should be fun!

ksu90

So I finally bought the J35A3 Engine from LKQ (113k) and it will be installed in my DD 184k TLS!

Which injectors should I use? J32A2 or J35A3?

Iggy

Both motors use the same injectors. Your choice.

Out of curiosity, how does your car have less miles now than it did a year ago when you started this thread?

teh CL

iTrader: (1)

Just swap the complete j35a3 and have fun

ksu90

I have 2 Blue Acura TLS's One is my DD with 185k miles (J35A3 is going in here!) and the other was with 244k miles was suppose to be a project car that became the parts car.

Engine has arrived and mechanic will do basic strip down and refresh with all new parts. Timing belts, gaskets, etc etc etc.

Station

This is an upgrade I've been wanting to do myself for awhile and have researched but have never pulled the trigger on so anyone please correct me if I'm wrong.
From what I remember most people swap the crank and rods from the j35 to the j32a2 (j32a2 has better cooling) and put the RL pistons(I forgot what year) in to get a compression of 11.0:1 and nothing else needs to be done to the engine. I think this gives you around 280hp?? And also, I remember our engines like a smooth hone not cross hatched but please correct me if I'm wrong. I don't know a whole lot about engines but am trying to learn.

Matt Ohearn

Does anyone have horsepower/torque numbers if you were to do that j35a3 with type s cams/ bolt on etc? I found a j35 in my area for 100$ and I might grab it

zeta

iTrader: (1)

Check out the thread below it will give you an idea of HP / Torque:

https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-cl-d...s-6spd-977645/

Matt Ohearn

Thank you I'm pretty sure I am going to go pick up that engine

zeta

iTrader: (1)

If you swap the automatic J35A3 engine it into your manual CLS6, you will need the following to make compatible:

front head cam pulley, front head timing belt back cover plate assembly, front head cam sensors and sub-harness,
pulley side crank sensor and sub-harness, timing belt stopper plate, timing belt drive pulley,
flywheel, clutch, pressure plate, rear engine mount and bracket
the coolant 'connecting pipe' (between the water pump and water jacket), water jacket with EGR valve, and the throttle body MAP sensor.

As you've already indicated, you can also take the J32A2 heads and install them on the J35A3 block or just the j32A2 cams and swap them over to the J35A3 heads, this will give you a Type-S J35A3 with lots more torque down below. The CLS6 ECU will work with the J35A3 engine, no problem.

Good Luck!